Just search for "spanish romance tab," and you will get them.

Thank you!

I have the action height mentioned at 10:17. If it's 3 mm on the treble side and 4 mm on the bass, it's OK. Lower action can cause some buzz. If it's significantly higher, then yes it's possible to sand the bottom of the saddle a little bit. The ratio is 1 to 2: to reduce the action over the 12th fret by 1 mm, you need to remove 2mm from the saddle. Be careful if you need to reduce only one side though, avoid introducing a curve to the saddle, the bottom must be 100% flat.

All the music pieces are labeled on the video

I use high-tension carbon strings for the E-to-E tuning. In my video with the Yamaha GL1 review, I explain my string choices. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9n9SKqYHgPA.html

@@ValentinKovshikMusic thank you buddy, I wish you all the best!

@@ProductivePM Thank you!

I tune my guitalele as a guitar, so I use usual guitar sheet music, tabs, etc. Watch my GL1 review for strings suggestions to be able to do that.

In the video, I used D'addario XTC46FF for EBG and Oasis Inspiro HT carbon for DAE. So far, it's the best-sounding combination I found. These strings can be purchased online as half sets.

First of all, try to look at D'Addario EJ46FF, it's the same as XTC46FF but not coated. In some countries only that set is available. Other than that, any set should work if: 1. it has all carbon (fluorocarbon) trebles AND 2. it is hard/high tension You can try Savarez Alliance HT classic high tension 540J, for example. They have a lot of different sets with similar names, so you probably should explore the Savarez website first. I have no experience with them. Alice website has a bit confusing descriptions in English, so I do not know.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic Thank you so much for the breakdown! This helps a lot.

@@shadmanhasan6047 You are welcome!

Almost any new guitar, unless it's a really high-end or a custom one, requires new strings, frequently some fret fixes, and nut and saddle adjustment. So, such a project must be always expected 😄 But I like your idea!

A hard tension carbon set is definitely much better because it has higher tension than nylon. With such a low saddle any nylon will buzz like crazy in E tuning. Actually, I'm afraid, even carbon can be hard to play without buzz, maybe with very light touches. However, if you play flamenco, that sound may be even desirable.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic I raised the action to 3.25mm -3mm and put a set of D’Addario EJ46FF High Tension. The guitar plays very sharp everywhere you fret a note! Not working.😢

@@antonyhadjion8376 It can be slightly sharp but should not be too much. What exactly do you mean by "very sharp"? How many cents?

@@ValentinKovshikMusic I talking about 10-15 cents sharp when you play the 2nd fret of each string. ie. 10 cents sharp on the trebles and 15cents with the 5th and 6th!

@@antonyhadjion8376 I got +10 on some frets only on the 3rd string with stock setup and maybe up to +5 in other places. +15 is really too much. This may be slightly wrong bridge location, a tilted saddle, or an extremely high nut. Or maybe you press the strings with too much force? It also matters.

@@onderozcan985 it’s basically a classical guitar if tuned to E, so the same learning process and repertoire is applicable. Actually I have some ideas for educational videos on playing. I cannot promise they will be released in the nearest future but stay tuned:)

@@ValentinKovshikMusic Any resoure recommendation such as youtube channel or books for those who does not have access to local guitar teacher then?

​@@onderozcan985 I did not study with a teacher or an online course. So I cannot say what methods or online resources definitely work. From what I see on RU-vid, I think "This is Classical Guitar" channel can be a good start. There are plenty of online tutors, by the way, just find someone who is not skeptical about guitaleles :) I guess Brandon Acker's online school is good, they teach many instruments.

Try to find D'Addario EJ46FF, same as XTC but not coated. Also, most other high-tension carbon strings should work. Try Savarez 540JL, Augustine Paragon Blue HT, Knobloch Erithacus EDC 34.5, etc. I plan to make a video about guitar intonation, where I want to explain how the compensated nut works. It's a complex topic that is difficult to explain in the comments.

​@@ValentinKovshikMusic Perfect! I can find those in my local shops, as well as some of the others listed. A video about intonation would be great! I am familiar with the subject from a theoretical standpoint and have set up my electric guitars, but I’m really interested in seeing how you approach setting up the compensated nut. Also, did you change the string spacing on the nut? I’ve heard of people doing that to spread the strings out a little bit. I really want to get the most out of this little instrument.

Nut compensation is done purely by trial and error. I use an approach similar to described in the article "The Compensated Nut" by Stephen Delft (google it, it's freely available) however I do not use individual pieces of bone, instead I add a single piece and remove material as needed. Strings spacing is already perfect. Wider spacing will cause the 1st and the 6th strings to slip from the fretboard.

Thank you!

@@KrwiomoczBogurodzicy I use the score from classclef.com for this Search there for BWV 1004 V. Ciaccona. by JS Bach

​@@ValentinKovshikMusic, Thank you. I've found it.

Thanks! In this video I have Boya BY-M1 lav microphone on the guitar + Fifine 669 USB mic in the room. The clip-on mic is just to add a bit of stereo. In fact, it's not that necessary in this setup.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic too kind! Thanks a lot.

Радий, що відео стало корисним! Тут слот під нижній поріжок майже перпендикулярний до центральної лінії, тому проблем не буде з тим, щоб переробити під ліву руку. Точно потрібно зробити новий нижній поріжок, дзеркальний. Я вже працюю над відео як його зробити самостійно, скоро буде на каналі. Верхній поріжок в ідеалі теж краще замінити, бо діаметри струн будуть трохи інші, але точно можна спробувати і як є. Проблема в тому, що його виготовити самому складніше. Можливо, колись теж зроблю відео, як обійтися без дорогих інструментів для цього.

@@pietart3596 EJ46FF carbon is basically the same as XTC46FF just not coated so it will work great

@@ValentinKovshikMusic thank you!!

Hello, strings changing is 100% same as on a classical guitar, so just watch any video about that. Keep in mind that carbon strings are a bit more slippery than nylon, so you definitely need to tie a stopper knot (figure 8 knot is great) at the end of the string on the bridge side before you tie the main knot on the bridge. It's for the first 3 strings that are plain plastic. Do not do questionable things like using fire to melt string ends, etc.

They will not work. That set is made for acoustic guitars, it has plain steel 1st and 2nd strings, and other strings still have wire core, according to the description on Martin website, so they require totally different saddle height, shape, and position. Basically, this guitalele will play out of tune with those strings. Also, the plastic tuners' posts can be damaged with steel strings.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic thanks for the thorough explanation

@@elamantiella you are welcome!

Hello, may I get some advice please? I plan to buy this guitalele for my dad’s birthday. As guitar player, he used to E tuning so I plan to ask the shop to setup for him (I don’t know much about the instrument) Is it enough if I only ask them to change strings and tuning? Or is there something else I need to tell them too?

​@@詩姫-m1c Hello, it depends. I only changed the strings and it works fine. Of course if compared to a guitar, the strings are more loose in the Guitalele. It is not exactly the same then the guitar strings would feel, but works just fine with XTC46FF strings.

@@elamantiella thank you for reply☺️

@@詩姫-m1c Yes, for the beginning, new strings are enough. Also, ask for a strap button installation (only a single one like I have, no need for a button near the neck).

Tie a figure 8 knot at the end of the string as a stopper and then proceed with your favorite way of tying the strings to the bridge. Ensure the stopper knot is behind the bridge, not on top. Hold it there while tightening the main one.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic Ok. Will try. Thanks.

You are right, I'm Ukrainian ✌

I do not think the factory-made GL1 has a too short 1st fret. They are all cut at once on a machine. You can check it, it should be 0.954 inches (2,423 cm) from the nut. But if it is closer, then a usual compensated nut will not help, since it is what it does: makes the first fret distance shorter. There is a good article about nut compensation. Google "The Compensated Nut by Stephen Delft". My specific measurements will not help because I have a custom saddle too, and the nut height, most definitely, is different. It's a trial-and-error process with no universal solution for every instrument. What I think you have is the nut which may be too HIGH, so it makes those strings sharper when pressed. It's a bit complicated to fix at home since it is easy to make the slots too deep. It's hard to explain the whole process in one comment. I have some ideas on how to explain it to non-luthier people, possibly I make a video eventually. In general, I think the saddle compensation is more important and I'm in the process of making a video about that.

@@melissahighland are you sure you tuned it to the right octave and not one octave lower? And guitar strings have the 4th string which is lower than the 3rd , unlike usual ukulele strings with reentrant tuning. That’s normal. If you are talking about a 4-string ukulele and not the guitalele.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic I had it done in a music shop. I use guitar tuner and it says '6 string standard' 'E2 A2 D3 G3 B3 E4' - I'm a beginner on the guitar, but I moved abroad and got a guitarlele to continue practice. Hence the lack of knowledge🙈😅

Okay, I think I figured out the tuning. But now there is like an off tune vibrating sound if I pluck/strum the string too hard, like it bounces off the fret board and sounds awful... am I just plucking too hard? Or isit because the string is too close to the fret board? - again, sorry for all the questions and I really appreciate you advice and help☺️

​@@melissahighland The 6th string may buzz if plucked too hard, yes. It's a common problem with many classical guitars. You can try playing a bit quieter, or pluck with the right hand closer to the bridge. Be sure that you press the strings near the metal fret, not in the middle between them. Also, I found that Oasis strings are less prone to that behavior than D'Addario despite similar tension. ​

@@Patrick-qj8ks I played for a couple of weeks in G tuning using normal tension nylon (D’Addario EJ45), because it was too much tension for A and too little for E. It worked very well. Check tension charts, maybe there is some light carbon with the same tension as EJ45. 46ff set has much higher tension, so I would not recommend you tune them higher than F, probably.

Thanks!

Maybe one day :)

In my video with Yamaha GL1 review I describe my string choices.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic Thank you very much! cheers from Buenos Aires, Argentina

You're welcome!

Then it would be 2 videos, 10 minutes each.

XTC46 has nylon trebles. They will be too soft and not very bright in E tuning. You need a set with carbon (fluorocarbon) trebles and hard tension. This is the key. Try to find dʼAddario EJ46FF (same as XTC46FF but not coated) or other brands with high-tension carbon. Savarez, for example, can be quite good.

@@ValentinKovshikMusic Хорошо спасибо

From u.k. Before you buy check out the baritone ukulele 4 strings tuned DGBE the biggest of all ukes. And a damn site easier than a guitar which I struggle with.