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Great teaching, Thanks for sharing. I have one question. The replacement of the defrost thermostat is to be with the exact temperature range or can be a tolerance? The one than my freezer uses is FR-9 N42-21
We can only recommend to use the exact replacement. The issue with using the wrong temperature rating is that it could be a fire hazard or cause the defrost system to not work properly.
Great video but did all THAT and still no water to icemaker. There is no water dispenser on my model frig. Line is clear because water was running out of the line
Water was dripping mostly inside the fridge I believe from the opening where the ice falls out into the door. Water was also dripping out from the ice shoot also. where is that front user control board located exactly?
It appears that the bottom part of the mullion needs to be higher to close. I can push it up & it works for a while but then drops & mullion does not close…
Great tutorial. Only problem I have is the tensioner comes very close to the motor pulley, in fact it slightly touches it. This makes the belt not tight enough to consistently pull the motor pulley when spinning by hand during that test. I'm wondering if my new belt will still be fine or if I need a new tensioner? Maybe tighten the motor pulley?
@@PartsDr Yeah, I had the right part number, granted the same part number covers 29" and 27". I went back to my old order and sure enough it seemed I bought the 29" by accident, but I went out to a hardware store just now and grabbed a 27" and believe it or not the 29" is smaller...makes absolute no sense. I replaced everything except the motor pulley. I put everything back just now to try one last time, and all works now. I just have to be careful with how much I put in the dryer, because I push the limits all the time. I'll probably order a motor pulley to have on hand.
when I use the multimeter set to ohms on the water valve pins I get a reading of 1.463k and the other is 1.188k one is for drinking water the other for ice but when I set the multimeter to ohms setting with tone I get no reading or tone.
If you get a reading on two of them, but nothing on the third one, then the water valve may have failed. On most models, the water valve itself isn't sold separately, you normally have to replace the entire filter case assembly.
My washer stops and says there is an error. The water remains in the wash tub and when I disconnect the drain hose, water pours out, so it seems there is an issue with the water making it's way out the hose. I have cleaned the hose out and there doesn't seem to be a blockage in the hose. I have also cleared out the pipes in the wall that the hose sits in. Any advice?
@PartsDr there isn't any bulbs in the freezer on my model, just a large lamp on the frame in the middle, but that is working very bright. I just did measure the voltage, only getting 2.55 volts. Just need to figure out what spec is on my model GE
@PartsDr dfe28jskiss , I've read conflicting info online about supplied voltage to bulbs. One site says it's 12vdc, but your video shows 3.1 v. Stumped at this point, but I've switched the bulbs out every which way just incase i got a bad new bulb and the results are the same
@@korycurtis3730 Try locating your tech sheet as we show here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oyW-CUb739I.html and looking at the wiring diagram for your model
Hi thanks for this video but I’m wondering if I can use a starter relay that looks exactly like the one you are using but differ t model number? WR07X10131 found this model on Amazon and ships next day I can’t wait 5 to 7 days to get specific model number
No, it is important to use the correct part that is listed for your model refrigerator. Using the incorrect part can cause the compressor to not start, or damage the compressor, and it is potentially a fire hazard.
@@yemariamkebede1131 You're welcome! If you haven't already done so, try searching on our site partsdr.com using the model number from your refrigerator to locate the correct part. We have fast shipping.
Washer not filling with water? Learn about the top 5 reasons your washer won't fill here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kO-tn4hLPpM.html
Hi there! I have a Fisher and Paykel WashSmart washing machine that I would like to clean out. The lid does not look like this, but has a clip of sorts on the left hand side. Can you instruct me on how to remove this lid? Thank you!
I wasn't planning to fix my washer myself but it looked so easy this 80 year old woman decided to go ahead and do it myself. I have some suggestions that were helpful to me. I found it easier to shut off the water from the whole house as the faucets were hard to turn. I would have a towel handy as there will be some leakage when you undo the water from the machine. I like to have handy a small container for all parts I remove from any project. First snag was removing the 4 screws holding the back in place, 3 came off with no problem but 1 was really tight, a very long substantial philipshead screw driver got it off. The next issue was getting off that large center bolt. What worked for me was using the screwdriver inserted into one of the slots next to a bolt then tapping my ratchet wrench with a hammer, done. To get off the magnetized wheel I found wearing disposable gloves gave me the traction I needed to remove it. The 6 bolts came off with no issues. I was unable to disconnect the electrical component but the rotary sensor came off easily and reinstalled easily so no need to disconnect the electrical components. I had put a foot stool behind the washer and that big round piece rested on it while I did this. Putting it back together was effortless. I am now getting my laundry washed once again with a vow to myself not to overload the washing machine. Thanks for your very instructive video
Great video! Do you have one for the lights flickering replacement? My dad (a Sears repairman) replaced them the first time the component went out, but now they're going out again! Crazy frustrating the cheap parts nowadays.
Try one of these videos: How to test, troubleshoot and replace LED lights - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iF6yB2hgNgQ.html Learn how to replace the Freezer LED Light Module here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fBdcx4yIVdI.html Learn how to replace the Ceiling LED Lights here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y2PgjaHY16g.html
It is most likely good. It probably just has a low wattage rating. If you find the voltage and wattage numbers, you can check it here: partsdr.com/blog/ohms-law-calculator-a-crucial-tool-for-appliance-repair/
My LG oven worked fine and then we lost power for about 12 hours due to a hurricane. When power was restored everything lights up as usual, I can set the clock , etc , but none of the burners or oven will heat at all.
You would have to open up the filter case assembly and trace the wires to the each water solenoid. If you do that, the test might work for you. But, an ohm test on water valves is not a conclusive test, as they can pass the ohm test but still be bad.
@@PartsDr thank you for your reply I openened the filter to expose the solenoids wires and put a probe on both solenoids for ice and water. there was no reading for either of them but the fridge still gives water and the ice maker does not give ice. strange how the fridge still gives water with no reading on the multimeter which indicates both solenoids do not have continuity. my fridge is the same as the one in your video.
@@carpe1959 Make sure the multimeter is set to the ohms setting. It should be similar to the ohm test shown here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kO-tn4hLPpM.htmlfeature=shared&t=107
I have checked all of the connections and inspected the wiring coming out of and through the door and all of that is good. I tested the water filter switch and door switches with meter and they are all good too. Is there a circuit board that could be malfunctioning that controls all of the problems I’m having ?
Is it the part called “control board” PD00076623 on your website? I’m not even sure where that’s located on the refrigerator? Are there times when only a portion of these boards malfunction? Thank you for the information.
@@DerekEvan Here is a link to the main control board: partsdr.com/part/wpw10628307-control-board?model=WRF997SDDM00 Yes, control boards often fail with only one part of the board malfunctioning. It is strange that yours stopped working after you were working on it. That is a good reason to go back over things to make sure something didn't get left disconnected or not put back together properly.
Thanks for the link. My problem started out with just water dripping from ice maker. At this time everything else was working (water dispenser, alarm for water filter when dropped down, could access options)Then ice started to form all around ice-maker and door chute inside the refrigerator. I let it go for several days but then the water dispenser and other stuff happened. I assumed something was frozen up so I Unplugged the fridge overnight to thaw out. From there I plugged back in and none of the things came back on plus the ice maker wasn’t making any ice. Replaced the two water valves and here I am. I have double check all of my connections and they are together and tight. Just questioning if spending $300 (with shipping) for this part is the answer to my problems, in your opinion?
I have a Amana dryer and the tS error. Ive replaced both the thermostat and the thermister. Ive cleaned the lint trap and vent system and still get a tS error.
most people end up dropping one of the screws down the lint screen chute. For this reason, I suggest you shove a small towel down that chute so that when the screw falls, it stops at the towel. You can use a small magnet to retrieve the screw from any crack around the towel if you can't get it with your fingers.
Thank you for this!❤ Now, I see how much is involved. This may be too much for me to handle. I'm concerned b/c a small, plastic plant stake fell in. Nervous about it becoming a fire hazard if it's not blown out.
It is worth removing that to prevent further issues down the road. Maybe see if you have a friend or family member that is handy that can help you out with it.
My electric range had a ceramic burning smell and then smoke came out under the top panel. I unplugged it, took the back off and all the boards and wires looked good. Every time I tried preheating, the smell was back. I tried it again and the smell is gone but it won't preheat past 135. The stove works fine. I haven't looked at the relay board yet. Do you think that's it?
Yes, it could be a failure of the relay board. It would be worth inspecting the relay board and the wiring from the board to the elements as shown in this video.
Mine the compressor was turning on and off like every couple minutes and repairmen said right away it was the relay. Replaced it started getting cold right away.
@@Likethefloat It is not as simple as the timer beeping. Did you test it as shown in the video? You have to follow the chart and test the different contacts as the timer is set to cycles.
If your Kenmore model was made by Whirlpool, these instructions should be similar. Use this link to see who made your refrigerator here: partsdr.com/blog/who-made-my-sears-kenmore-appliance/
Learn how to disassemble your Samsung dryer here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yMm91uA-KUY.html Learn how to replace the heating element on your Samsung dryer here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lbEtu8HFcHA.html
Hello! Great videos that you're making! I have a question about water line clogging. I removed top cover and disconnected water dispencer line on my Samsung RFG237AARS and found that water runs from the electric valve but water line is the one clogged. So I attempted to clean with vinegar in hope it's a carbon deposit but it wasn't the case, so maybe ice, also not the case, so I've got the teflon long small size tube and attempted to clean the water line tube and that it stops somewhere in the lft wall and hits hard something. Next tried to do the same from the bottom from line disconnected from the valve - it hits exactly the same spot that I can hear and even feel with hand placed on the left wall closer to back side. So, I decided to bypass internal tube and put new tube over the top and plug directly to the door but before I do that, can you help and tell me what is it there - some kind of connector or maybe check valve? Appreciated your response. I do realize that it's been a while since video published
Hello! We are not sure what is inside the wall of the refrigerator. They foam everything in place inside the cabinet and doors so they are not serviceable without cutting the refrigerator apart.
