The connector for my oil level sensor has 2 pins on my stock reworked harness and I'm trying to figure out what to mount in the holley oil pan that connects to it? Do you have the part # for the oil pressure sender switch that you usec?
Would you recommend waiting until you get the roadster shop chassis before doing paint and body to get a better fit? Or would it be fine to do body then readjust to frame before painting?
One of my bodies wouldn't fit on the Roadster Shop frame because it was a hack job. We had to completely replace the entire pan. The front end of a Gen 1 Camaro is particularly tricky getting all the sheet metal to gap correctly, especially if you have aftermarket fenders. Unless you have an original body, nothing fits. It takes old school metal finishing to get a decent fit. Last one took 650 hours.
@@MartinRuiz-xi5uq You can use the Roadster Shop frame as a frame table because it's built so accurately. Gen 1 Camaros were pretty loosy-goosey in terms of quality control. They just squirted seam sealer in anything that didn't fit.
@@MartinRuiz-xi5uq If it's an original body and the pan is intact, you should be fine. The final fit and finish on the front sheet metal in front of the firewall is what's critical. That has be be done on the body, but in the meantime do everything else like the door gaps, trunk and spoiler. I'd do it up to final prime, then wait for the frame.
Since you’ve had experience with both companies Morrison, and RS, how does the Morrison one compare to this one? I know it’s only the front clip but still, does it have the camber and caster adjustability like this one? Which one handles a little better, etc. lol
I’m having a similar issue with my 67 Camaro RS SPEC chassis and my Dynacorn firewall. When I install the firewall and bolt it down to the chassis the torque box hits the frame in the same area yours was. I added some 1/2 wood between the frame rail of the chassis and the torque box, but now I have a massive gap between the firewall and the cowl. My guess is between the tight tolerances from RS and the loose tolerance or the restoration parts from Taiwan causes the issue. How did y’all actually fix it. I am debating just removing the torque box and fitting the firewall the adjust the torque boxes and re-weld them to the car.
Thanks for the video. Is this common in new oea or just old rusty ? I installed 2 new 1 of them is fine the other failed before adjusting the door. I have loosened hinges but it still stuck . Thanks.
That short adapter harness for the MAP sensor connector trips up everybody 'cept me. I read the instructions. Pierre couldn't figure it out and asked me about it. I asked if he had a little brown padded envelope he hadn't opened yet. Fortunately, he didn't lose it. Viola!
Great work on your project, its getting done very nicely.. iam also working on 67 camaro with L99/6L80e swap..i got the 2022 ford ranger shifter.. i know swaptime usa uses the same shifter,, but how yo shifter is wired. any idea how they wired to work,,any little info will b greatly appreciated. thx
That's the issue, wiring on the stock Camaro shifter is intimidating. Mitch at Swaptime has figured it all out, so that's why I went that way. It all connects to his new muscle car module that has tap shift wiring built in.
He's also working on the stock Camaro shifter and that should be available too. For the 6L80 shifter issues, search under my website www.automobileman.com. I have two articles about the Lokar shifter.
I needed a way to move my car around without wheels, saw your video and purchased some DJS Fabrications universal dollies. I have a Roadster shop spec chassis as well. I am having an issue with the dollies clearing the lower control arm. Did you have a similar issue and if so, how did you get around it? Any hints at this point would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
Unique to 1967,three pull knob heater control,pull up inside door handles,push down door lock, inside door window regulators,brake pedal,clutch pedal assembly, ashtray radio,and opening,and faceplate
@@GenV_Restomods I set the engine and trans low. There was no tunnel to begin with and now it has a shallow one over the trans. Also rebuilt the firewall. You're correct, it's a tight fit. I tried to stick with the L83 front accessories but in the end I got a Holley mid mount front runner.. Running Dakota digital gauges.
You mentioned that you’ve also installed the ride tech system on another car. I have a 68 Camaro that I’ve been planning suspension upgrades on for about 20 years now…I’ve just about settled on the ride tech option, but can’t stop looking at this spec chassis. In your opinion, is the extra cost of the roadster shop chassis worth it over the improvements that you see going from stock to ride tech? I’d appreciate the insight.
I did the Morrison Clip and Ride Tech 4 bar about 7 years ago when they were reasonable in cost. Right now the Morrison front clip is over 10K and the last quote I got for a complete chassis was 27K. For the money, the Roadster Shop is the only way to roll because it's still priced at around 12K to start and you can get a pretty nice one for under 16K, depending on what you want. Last time I checked the wait time was pushing 7 or 8 months.
I also think the overall results of the suspension setup is far superior to adding a front and rear clip. I had vertical movement in excess of 2" when I jacked up the front of the car. I asked Morrison to build me a complete frame and their response was, "You don't need one," so even though they're in my own backyard I went with the Roadster Shop. I'm now on my second chassis with them and I'm not looking back
@@GenV_Restomods Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate it. Yeah, the Morrison clip is nice but they have gotten very expensive for what it is. I’ve been looking at the full front and back ride tech setup with the tru-turn option to address the steering geo. I know it’ll never be as good as a full chassis, but at ~6k all-in it seems pretty hard for me to justify another 20k. Then again, it’s a forever car for me so the spec chassis seems like a good long term win. Anyway, thanks for your insight. I’ve watched the other videos of yours, you do great work, sir.
Everyone who took a ride, said it was the fastest car they've ever been in. Without driving aids like the Corvette Z06, it's a handful if you get squirrely. It was more horsepower than I needed, so I'm building two other Camaros that you can follow on my channel.
Having restored a '69 Camaro I can testify that first gen Camaros were heavily compromised from the factory to cut cost, the greatest flaw being the cowl to front axle length. It's two inches too short. They corrected this with the second gen making the '70 1/2 Z/28 one of the finest, best handling, most balanced cars of that era. The full frame chassis kit available today for first gen Camaros is awesome!😎
The info about the axle length was more than worth the view. Your voice sounds super familiar. Have you ever done some financial, Elliot Wave forecasting?
"(Once you decide)What you want and where it's going to go" - Wasn't that a Osbourne Brothers ukulele hit on WWVA Jamboree 1956? Mister Dave White here right back on the Camaro horse, creating another beautiful automobile. Excellent! Jonathan
