Welcome to Workshop Rebuild. This is my channel where I take apart, clean, and reassemble machines to make them fully functional again. I hope everyone enjoys the episodes! - Andreas
I had no issue getting my exhaust valve adjusted but when slowly cycling through for the intake, there isnt a position where the intake valve loosens up like the exhaust valve in order to get a feeler guage in there. What should I do?
@@WorkshopRebuild no it’s a great thing .you look at bmw car engines now they have nasty simplex ones that snap like carrots.i had one of these air cooled BMW bikes when it got stolen it had 134.000 miles on it never let me down
I just bought a BMW r1250r. I have been fascinated with the engine design and history, as a aircraft Engineer/Technician ive worked on many light air-cooled engines and can say your attention to detail, torque, and assembly meets or exceeds a certified aircraft engine overhaul facility, im quite impressed. Well done sir.
Your new bike is strikingly nice and I hope your find yourself taking it out on great road trips! I really value your feedback and appreciate your kind words. My fascination with engines and mechanical systems has been a lifelong passion, which is why I enjoy sharing these types of videos. I gained my foundational knowledge during my apprenticeship in Switzerland, where I honed various skills, including the meticulous assembly of industrial machinery to high standards. I dream of working on aircraft engines one day, as my interest in aircraft, particularly radials and vintage Continentals, runs deep. Perhaps someday I'll have the chance to participate in an engine rebuild or similar project. Thank you again. Regards Andreas
@@terrainslopins865 Correct, Red and not Blue. If you understand the importance of the components, you'll choose the l correct Loctite. Not only Red & Blue exist...
The camera was shaking on the table as I made this video, and in the editing software „video-stabilizing“ was used. This then made the background stable, but made the crankshaft and camshaft rotate unevenly. I‘m not sure how it was done in the video, but that was the only way I could used this clip. The crankshaft am camshaft were both running true and I am sure of this, thanks to a dial indicator. Thank you for your concerns🍻
Thank you for your comment and kind words! I had great fun assembling this engine and I'm happy to have shared it with you. If you wish to see the full details on this engine assembly, you can check out the step-by-step engine assembly here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I05J7DHoB-Q.html Thanks again! Regards Andreas
That's a very cool project with some nice upgrades, compared to the /5 motorcycles. I will have a project similar to your in the near future...it's just waiting in the background at the moment. More details coming soon! Wishing you great success on your project. Regards Andreas
I'm glad you were able to enjoy this video and thank you for your feedback! It sure is satisfying when you reach the correct bolt torque and it clicks to verify you've achieved your setting. I guess shop echo enhances the feeling as well haha. Regards Andreas
Maybe make a torque value document that can be time stamp referenced in the Description and/or chapters? I mean, you know, in your spare time😊. Really a mesmerizing video of this technical art. You’re very, very good at this. I want my /5’s and /6’s back! May need to do something about that. The nearest new era thing remotely like the air head in type and spirit , imo, are air cooled Moto Guzzi transverse engines (sorry to mention, etc etc) They are well made and nice, but I just realized how much I miss these airheads. Are all the parts and the little things that can kill a practical build rather than a museum remanufacturefor these engines and bikes still readily and easily available?
In hindsight, I could have added all that to this video too, but I shared a 1-1/2 hour assembly video on this engine for you to see here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I05J7DHoB-Q.html This video shares every step of the assembly process, from the tooling to the torque specs and so on. This BMW R60/5 motorcycle restoration has been a cool project so far and I'm very close to the final product. I admire this engine tremendously, as I see it as a piece of artwork myself. I can only be thankful to preserve such history and allow it to last another 50 years. Feel free to mention other brands, as each has its own strengths. No bike or engine is perfect (haha)! I hope you find an exciting project to start, and indeed, there's a wide availability of BMW airhead parts on the market. You can locate nearly everything from the crankshaft upwards, to gearbox components. While like other manufacturers, some parts are No Longer Available (NLA), numerous suppliers are actively manufacturing new parts. The BMW Airhead community's solidarity is truly remarkable! If you ever need assistance finding parts, feel free to reach out. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild thanks for the detailed rebuild video and the offer to help track down rare parts! This is an excellent channel. Congratulations for such good work.
I would recommend 2 Big cans, or 3 smaller cans. Try to hit the hard-to-reach spots first and lay down light coats as you go. That way your paint will last until the end.
It’s interesting to know where you found out the parameters for this engine regarding the fit tolerances of the Shaft-Hole system, and the tightening torques of all threaded connections, as well as thermal clearances? 5:17 And yes, it is unlikely that in the 70s of the last century it was possible to use a liquid thread locker with a controlled torque failure, such as Lactite 262...
All tolerances were found within service manuals from the 70's. These numbers are in many different manuals and they are correct. Torque values are standard for most Grade 8 hardware, but once again is most manuals you will be giving specifications for such an undertaking. All values are given as ranges, as not one torque value is technically correct. There are many factors that play a role when torquing bolts. Thread locking fluid is an old invention and was already implemented on machinery in the 60's, this engine is from the early 70's and it was used.
@@WorkshopRebuild Liquid threadlockers first entered the automotive industry in 1973 with Loctite's industrial product Dri-Loc, before the primary consumer was the military industrial complex in Hartford, Connecticut. In Germany, this product became widespread only after 1997, when Henkel KGaA acquired shares in Loctite.
@@WorkshopRebuild You are lucky that you found detailed documentation for the engine! Today it is impossible to choose the correct suspension springs for modern Fiat cars, not from the original manufacturer. Not to mention the tightening and adjustment moments.
Thank you very much! This carburetor does not feature a choke. Some R60‘s had them, others didn‘t. The choke cable port is closed off with a factory sheetmetal plug.
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for getting back to me. So wouldn't be hard to start with no choke? I have a 1941 zundapp KS 600 with the incorrect carb on it with no choke. Its a little hard to start in the cold.
@RCASSIN if you have this identical carburetor, it’s possible to remove the choke cover plate as it is just made of sheetmetal. Then buy the components and add it to the carburetor. If you’re really in need of a choke system for your Zündapp, I would fabricated a custom “plate-choke”. This can be made directly in front of the carburetor. It can either be a slide plate or a twist plate, something you see on small lawn mowers. This is almost better as you don’t have any cables running to-and-from your carburetor, just a small lever. Let me know what you make of this.
@@WorkshopRebuild That is great advise, but i did manage to get a more correct carb with a choke. I would like to keep the originally of the bike. It is a Bing 1/24/27. But it is missing the speed needle. So I will have to find that. Thanks for your help!
@RCASSIN I understand what you mean😊👍🏼 I hope you’re able to find the speed needle. Bing has a lot of components available for their classic carburetors, but maybe you’ll find an alternative source which is cheaper. Bing has very high prices when it comes to those small parts😅 Good luck and I would love to hear your KS600 running. They are beautiful bikes
Hello, I am trying to rebuild a k301 right now. According to the manual the rear main seal is supposed to be pushed In .125”. I had messed with it for hours and hours. I tried getting the block level, I tried using a hammer and a seal driver and I tried using a press and a driver. All had the same result. I could not get it to be .125” all around. Some spots measure .122” and some measure .126” I posted this in a forum and someone said it would be fine, but do you think it would be okay?
Hi there! Most parts are cast externally, and when you measure from a non-machined surface you will have fluctuations. I‘m not sure if it‘s cast on that surface or machined, next to the seal, but I believe you‘re just fine. Most seal lips aren’t very accurate either. Just make sure the spring is in place and that both internal and external surfaces are sealing. I hope this helps👍🏼
Thank you very much for your amazing feedback and support towards my detailed videos! It's not always easy to pack a lot of information into a 15-20minute video, but I always try my best. There are more projects on the way and I cannot wait to share them with you. Regards Andreas
Thank you, Carlo! It's a pleasure for me to work on such an amazingly well engineered piece of history. The end is near on this project and I will be sharing updates very soon!
I am using the JD855 more often, as it suits my needs much better. The JD300 is being used as a mower on a regular basis and I'm very happy with it. I haven't even put many hours on the JD400 & Bolens HT20 since I got the 855 running... Some things just don't get used as much and I'm happy when I can pass on a garden tractor like the JD 332. It went to a great home and it was ready to do some serious work.
I would recommend anything larger than 3HP for sandblasting to be honest. A small compressor might not be able to keep up. Even a small compressor, with a large tank could be an option. For an airbrush, you can run a small portable compressor as they don;t use much air.
i have a few of these machines, looking at mine the arm you are working with all sit 90 deg from the 3-point arms, and yes, the factory wield jobs do look clumsy! On all of mine I've noticed the flat stock bar that runs forward to the deck lift had stretched flattening the double bend by the turnbuckle for the brake adjustment, thus bringing them closer together. the offset of the fix doesn't seem to have limited the deck travel in any way so......great fix!
Thanks for letting me know! I wasn't sure if this was just on my JD400 (haha)! It's definitely worth keeping an eye on that linkage and if it holds up...just keep it that way. Maybe if you run into trouble it would be a good idea to change the angle and give a good weld for added strength. Cheers
The information contained in these videos are very well articulated and thorough. Well done, and I never want to discourage your efforts. After watching this playlist, I would contend the title(s) should properly draw viewers interested in Yanmar diesel engine inspection & rebuilds, because there is much more involved, including the transmission & electronics, that is not covered here. I'm sorry to be "that guy," but my frustration in trying to find an electrical issue with the PTO on my 1445, as well as trying to find properly titled RU-vid videos, is growing. There are multiple relays, fuses, safety switches, sensors, modules, and solenoids that are involved in the proper operation of the 1445 traction unit that is designed to "drive" other implements/attachments. This "project" was the Yanmar diesel engine....NOT the John Deere 1445. But, being 100% genuine in saying "Thank You" for being an intelligent source of information in a sea of improperly prepared offerings on this platform.
I fully appreciate your feedback and comment! When I look back at this playlist with JD1445 videos, I went into this project knowing the engine was shot. How bad it was, was unknown. Besides the engine rebuild, I managed to replace axles seals and repair some other bits around the commercial tractor. I know this unit has more than just that, but my goal was to get it back up and running and not to do a full restoration. When dealing with wiring tasks, it's challenging to capture on camera without becoming overly detailed, which may not appeal to viewers who aren't encountering specific faults. If I had encountered electrical issues, I would have mentioned them briefly without diving deep into the specifics. There are readily available wiring diagrams online that are straightforward and easy to follow. Unlike some other RU-vidrs who use clickbait titles, I believe my JD1445 videos are straightforward and technical. If my videos didn't cover exactly what you were searching for, I apologize. Perhaps in the future, your machine's issues will align with mine, and you'll find my videos helpful. I'm always striving to enhance my videos and appreciate feedback on areas where I can improve. This is why I make an effort to read, acknowledge, and respond to comments. Thanks for understanding and hope to see you again soon. Regards Andreas
How I long for the documentaries made 50 years ago. This is just eye candy filling in your time while teaching you absolutely nothing. All part of the policy of numbing the brains of people through formats like RU-vid, to create a society of people who watch instead of do.
I appreciate your comment, but I think you watched this and assumed this was eye-candy. There are many viewers that found this video helpful and informative, without having much knowledge about BMW airhead engines specifically. Even though this video is shot in a different format, you can watch the full engine assembly here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I05J7DHoB-Q.html This video is 1-1/2 long and it shares the entire assembly process from start to finish.
