This channels focus is to parallel my main interests in the areas of machining, welding. and fabricating. I will be using these disciplines to create useful parts and devices, as well as doing general repairs. I never know what will pop up next. Viewers may even pickup a useful tip or two from an old school Tool & Die guy! There may even be a few videos of other activities here on Hickory Hollow Farm thrown in for good measure. I hope you will follow along. See you on the tube!
The video came up in my feed. I'd left a comment about a month back and have acquired 2 General surface gages, as in the video, since then. The first one was reground by its previous owner. Did a nice job. The second one is completely stock. The General is heavier than a B&S 621 or a Starrett 57/257A and works great as a base for a bench magnifier, which is how I use it. Old eyes. It's more rigid than the Lufkin 520/522. Slides around beautifully after stoning. I'd recommend it. Comparable to a B&S 621. And it's inexpensive. Why fight it?
Way back when I bought that in 1964, I was a starving apprentice. Even though it's not a top brand, I've been very happy with it. And you're right it's just slightly bigger than the starretts, B&S etc. tc, Mike
Thanks for making these videos. I am just a hobby machinist and learning how an experienced tool and die maker does this is pure RU-vid gold and very valuable to someone like me.
I collect surface gages. These days, for the most part, they've been replaced with height gages. I'm not talking about the simple height gage as shown in the video, but a rather complex structure that rides on air like a hovercraft and can perform numerous operations. If folks download, say, Mitutoyo's Spring Promotion catalog, they can have a look at similar instruments and actually note the prices. We're talking $10K+. Would be happy to recommend some. If one wants a medium size surface gage, as in the video, both the B&S 621 and Lufkin 520 are excellent. They use 5/16 rods. Bigger, +4lbs, a B&S 622 with a 3/8 rod is fantastic. The new 622s are made in the UK and sell for silly money. Pretty much everyone is owned by Hexagon. If you can find a used one that's realistically priced, as I did, you won the metrology Internet that day. Starretts are not a personal favorite, though I use several for specific applications. If you absolutely must buy a Starrett surface gage, you want a 257C/D (3/8 rod). The bigger one of the 3 they offer(ed). Mini surface gages, like a Starrett 56, are a bit of a different topic (7/32 rod). General sold a nice mini, too; I think it made by Lufkin. Enjoyed the video. Good luck.
You don’t have to remove the table to change the X screw and nut. Barry at H & W machine demonstrates how both can be removed as a unit together from the left end of the machine.
@@michaelmurray9154 No problem with that as long as you have a lift table which I don’t. My table is 48 inches and extremely heavy. I was planning to try to remove it until I learned about Barry’s method. Good day to you sir.
I would have liked to see your repair of that import tailstock. I just bought one this past fall, and have not checked it out. It was made in India. I was seeing Raccoons and Possums all winter as well (by Toddville). This was the most mild winter I've experienced in the 40 years I've lived here.
Quite a fight with that trans to open... nice unit - quite a fiddle altogether for reassembly - much patience!. Trying to imagine the hours you have put into the DoAll in total!
MIke, I think you missed the 2 shims when you put it back together 14:10 shows where you took the shims off, then 14:54 you put the new gear in without the shims. Have played this several several times. The new gear definately goes into the casing without the 2 shims. I kept shouting out put the shims on, but you ignored me.😢 Check it yourself. Regards from Australia.
That is an odd thing. We used an saw very similar to yours. I know they had the trans out of it two times that i can remember. It was deep throat saw with a band welder. Any way I wish I would of paied attention to it when the were tearing it apart. we have gotten snow 3 times this winter. Its snowing like crazy right now. I hope this is the last of it. Was nice having a winter like we have had this year. About 2 weeks ago or so we had an ice storm. I was up trimming trees and I took a tumble. Im alright now but have been lacking in the video up loads.
Glad to hear you're ok. Retirement is too much fun to spend part of it in the hospital. It's been beautiful here. Mid fifties to sixties during the day. Played golf last week and have a tee time set for the Thursday. Looking forward to seeing your next radial eng vid. It's really coming together. What a complicated bit of machining. Stay safe. Tc, Mike PS, I haven't been able to reply to comments lately. Just locks up my phone. Surprised I could get this one thru.
I remember all the earlier work you did on the saw - super job, including the outside finish and the welder facility. The internals are impressive, in a sort of complicated way, particularly the trans. The new cast iron gear you've made came out nicely.
@@michaelmurray9154 You pronounced everything in your video perfectly, Don't give me or anyone else the "speech impediment" garbage! Trying to get sympathy for a real ailment that you don't have is repugnant! That is a new internet low. Congratulations you played the wrong card.
Mike, In tramming in the dividing head did you run down the top of the arbor as well ? Any difference in height of the two centers could cause that indication you showed and the rotational angle on the dividing head itself could cause a height difference. Of course you did, I know but it just has to be said. John 🇨🇦 PS Proud 1941 DoAll ML owner. PPS It is highly inappropriate in todays political climate to trap Chinese 😂
I did check height match between centers. It's an easy adjustment on tailstock. I should have mentioned it in the video. I appreciate your comment. Tc, Mike
Lot of setting up and dealing with indicator readings. The few times I have used my dividing head I've had a similar problem to what you described on yours. Great to see you cutting teeth and then the finished item - phew! Coon escape - LOL.
Well done Mike. Could you not have used a different set of holes to say use 11 holes on a 33 hole plate or whatever, and use the smaller quadrant opening ? Generally hole jumping is not a good idea as you found out last time. I have the identical dividing head and my handle pin must be a bit longer as I can not get the pin to go over the quadrant. Regards from Australia.
Unfortunately I ran the numbers out and the twenty hole row plate was the only choice of my three plates. I even considered making a custom plate but decided against it. Hopefully I will never have anything needing 46 divisions in the future. I'm curious if you had an issue with the key relationship between your div head and tailstock? Tc Mike
@@michaelmurray9154 Hi Mike, I have never used the tailstock with my dividing head. I have also never clamped it direct to the table. I use it in my machine vice, I use high parallels so that when gripping it, the rotation clamp bolts do not foul the vice jaws. Hope the new gear fits the gearbox ok. Love the end bit of your Racoon or whatever escaping your Chinese trap. Regards from Australia.
What a bummer. Its been really warm here 60 degrees we broke all records. I hope you have better luck on your next try. For some reason youtube has kicked me out of your channel so I have some catching up to do.
Always sensed that bit of 'pucker factor' when I was broaching! Pity yours got busted - ouch. Pity too that blank was so hard. The chunk of cast was fair price but of course - rather a lot of spare material. Hopefully this will prove a successful approach after getting down to size!
Mike, don't waste it on your lathe. Cut it out on the band saw and still have some left over, in diameter and thickness. Cut well oversize, pop it in the 4 jaw and bore your center hole, pop it on an expanding mandred and finish to size. That is a lot of cast iron to waste. Regards from Australia.
Hi Mike - so long since I used my div head I'd have to go back to basics again to set up ( and take ages!). Great to see your approach as a good refresher... the old ''juggling'' trick to match up to a suitable plate. Blank sure looks unequal annealing. Look fwd to next stage. :)
Hi Mike, looks like they could have sent you Pre Hard which is 28 to 32 Rockwell, where as annealed is 19 to 24 Rockwell. Have you contacted the seller to ask what they sent to you ? Good luck sorting it out. Had a read as to how it is annealed and it is difficult without a furnace and also as you have now machined it; it needs doing under an inert gas or vacuum so that you do not get scale. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave. You're correct. Turns out it is heat treated. I didn't get back to the supplier. On my receipt it does say pre heat treated and I missed that when I picked it up. Miscommunication somehow. My bad. This is part 1 of four or possibly five. Stay tuned for how I proceeded with this. I'll be releasing one video per week. On another note, you tube isn't allowing me to give replies directly on my videos. I'm typing this on the stats summary window. Hopefully it gets through.
I know I'm a few years late coming into your DoAll videos Mike, but they are extremely helpful to me as I prepare to pick up a DoAll Contour 30-S.F.P 1957 model. I only have a few poor exterior photos, but no telling what awaits me. Your videos will be a great guide when I begin to go through the machine to place it in working order. Thank you.
I have one where at the end of the mast , opposite to the ball end there is a small ~1/2" disk that is shaped to, looks like, 60deg angle and is sharp, screwed into the end. Shaped like that --> <===> No clue what that is for. Anyone have an idea?
3:05 - Does the indicator holder comes with the surface gauge or test indicator? 5:05 - good to know that it's not great for accurate scribing, what other scribing methods is better? 13:23 - Would it be ideal to slide the surface gauge on the edge side of the granite surface plate since it's not finished/lapped?
3:05 sometimes yes sometimes no. You can find anything you are missing on line. 5:05 depends on accuracy requirements. Generally there are better methods. I prefer hand tools such as scriber, square, compass etc. 13:23 I slid along the surface place as a demonstration only. I can't think of an occasion to actually use an edge of a surface plate. All the best to you, Mike
Mike- I found a 1949 DoAll ML at an auction and decided to consult the web to research the possibilities of what might/could possibly be wrong with it (it was sitting outside and unused for some time) and I came upon your refurb videos. Your rebuilding of the gear set gave me confidence in putting in a low low low offer and eventually winning the saw. My saw appears to work (super quiet) but needs a bunch of cleaning and painting. I'll probably have to bust open the gear box to see why the unit doesn't like to engage high speed while running but will if system is rotated by hand (dog clutch?). Thank you for showing us your methods...
Congrats on your saw project, you'll love it. Be careful when switching between high and low. The safest way to do it is like you mentioned, turn wheel by hand while engaging. Or have saw running at slowest speed when switching between high/low. Enjoy!
Amazing job on that saw, I’ve had a 43 model sitting in my pole barn for a couple years waiting it’s turn, and it’s day has come. The saw was under power when I picked it up and ran beautifully, however it looks terrible. I see you’re running a phase converter, did you change the voltage of that saw? My phase converter is 240v, I was surprised to see the Doall motor doesn’t list 240v info, and is currently wired for 440. I guess they simply didn’t list it on the tag back then?
The tag on my bandsaw motor says 220 single phase. I was lucky there. So I'm not going through my rotary phase converter on the saw. I'm only using my RPC for the lathe and mill. I have a static phase converter on my surface grinder. I'm not sure the best solution to your problem. There are several different approaches you could consider. Best to consult with and electrician.
I really enjoyed this. Especially you showing how to make a piercing die. I didn't see the video of you machining the bottom mate, but assume you machined the two plates on the vertical mill. Thanks for transferring your life experience. I think you explained things very well with all the detail and rational words.
So I tried looking for DOC0455, he's changed his channel name to "In the Shop with Doc". My first DRO was a Mitutoyo on my Wells-Index 645. It has worked well for the past 30 years. And it's resolution is a half a thou. This was way before these affordable ones came out, and before eBay. I put a Sargon on my import 10x20 bench lathe, I got that one from ENCO. It's also old and still working. They both have power switches that removes the power from the electronics. I know that for longevity, that's very important. Things with 'soft' power switches will die from either surge voltages, and the failure of integrated circuits being powered continuously. I have a DRO to install on my surface grinder, I mainly wanted to have fine resolution of the down feed. I have it still sitting on boxes, but need to spend the time to install.
I used to see Bull snakes in my back yard, but after the winter of 2007-2008, I don't see them or an Pheasants. Things starved that winter with all the freezing rain and heavy snow. And then the flood came.
