hello . i did it thanks to you. even thow i dont have a special adapter i just got a cheep faceplate with a 37mm thred online and stuck a c mount lens with electrical tape to it .and it works i have to tell you after ripping out the camra guts and pulling its eyelids off then putting it all back together turning it on for the first time made me nerves as hell ...oh now it has a black screen...then afer what felt forever it started up . wow the start up takes longer now . i also the sony edge app after connecting the camra it dus not let you record enething and the camra it stuck powred on you need to pull the battrey out to reset it. dont know if it is somthing i did or if is a bout ther is no lens. and the lens i have is a 35mm but on the rx0 it looks more like a 80mm i'm going to have to find a wider lens now.
Ya, done good. I know these kinds of operations, they require focus, concentration, patience eye for detail, not to mention the knowledge and mechanical aptitude to go with. Your Double 007 screw driver served you well.
Hey Sam, mine break! I did not saw that video first...Do you know if i could found the 64-pin Molex mezzanine connectors somewhere in order to change it on the mother board? many thanks
Its actually called putting the nut on cross threaded. And there is an easy solution. Dont put the nut on cross threaded. Make sure the threads are aligned properly before you tighten. If you are encountering too much resistance before you tighten it, that means its on cross threaded. You should be able to move it easily with your fingers. This is not a stainless steel problem and will occur with every metal in existence. You have to line up the threads properly. Some mysterious liquid is not gonna help with that.
@@SirChicoSC Thats exactly what I'm saying. Finger tighten it first to make sure the threads are on straight. If you cant easily finger tighten it, that means its on cross threaded. You have to line up the threads on the nut and bolt properly. Once you get the nut on finger tightened as far as it can go, THEN use tools like a ratchet or drill. But this guy put it on cross threaded, then ripped out the threads moving full speed with his drill. It got stuck of course then he said "Stainless steel dont work!" It was on cross threaded. If you are encountering too much resistance its cross threaded. You need to stop, take it loose, and re-align it or you will break something.
@@armelpeel The nut seemed to be going up and down on the bolt just fine in the beginning. If it was cross-threaded from the start, it would be difficult to get the nut moving. From personal experience and all the research I've done... looks like galling to me, not cross-threading. Also, I didn't catch him saying "Stainless steel don't work"
Having the same thought... I wanted to do a vulture build but now I'm considering designing and manufacturing my own frame. Then I realized you can get a lightly used BMPCC4K for around $800 and thought about the flying squirrel, but the store is offline. 😔
@stawhatsam have you tried the gemfan 7043 street league prop? Wondering how they are compared to the 7037 or the 7535 props? Let me know what you think?
VENDEN SENSORES PARA BLACK MAGIC 6G E7D5A4D4 PARA LIMA PERU , PPORFAVOR ESTARE AGRADECIDO,Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 6K G2 , FABRICANTE : Blackmagic Design Inc , VERSION DE FIRMAWARE : 7.9 , NUMERO DE SERIE : E7D5A4D4 , Hola mi estimado Cómo estás Que tengas un buen día Saludos desde Lima Perú Mi nombre es José Penachi y tengo una Black Magic G2 el sensor de mi black muerta o sea ya no funciona porque lo cayó láser hay alguna reparación? HAY cambio de sensor se puede hacer algo o sea todo funciona toda la cámara normal hace todo su función la única es que el sensor está dañado o sea no hay imagen no hay nada Cómo me puedo poner en contacto contigo Espero tu mensaje muchas gracias
Hola mi estimado Cómo estás Que tengas un buen día Saludos desde Lima Perú Mi nombre es José Penachi y tengo una Black Magic G2 el sensor de mi black muerta o sea ya no funciona porque lo cayó láser hay alguna reparación? HAY cambio de sensor se puede hacer algo o sea todo funciona toda la cámara normal hace todo su función la única es que el sensor está dañado o sea no hay imagen no hay nada Cómo me puedo poner en contacto contigo Espero tu mensaje muchas gracias
Por favor, envíe su cámara para su reparación a Blackmagic y no intente reemplazarla usted mismo. También hay una garantía de reparación gratuita de 2 años. Nunca intente reparar esto usted mismo, especialmente sin experiencia. Google "Blackmagic RMA"
Most of the time I like camera A. But there are some scenes flying against bright sky and camera B shows details of the sky, while A not. But the image of B is kind of weird.
So does that thread locker still act as an anti seize, anti galling compound when it’s totally dry and you go to undo the nut days, weeks, or months later ? Would be great to see a follow up video on that showing you screwing the nut back and forth at speed with dried up thread locker on it’s threads
Hi Daniel, no it's not recommended. BUT I am designing a new Pigeon and Puffin frame which will be compatible with the Micro Studio G2 among many other cameras.
I am trying to whittle down my designs anfmd improve my manufacturing process. As such I'll no longer be selling the Vulture. Instead I am designing a new Pigeon and Puffin which will be compatible with many cinema cameras including the micro G2.
@strawhatsam hey Sam, have you thought about doing a design for the Blackmagic Micro Studio Camera 4K? not sure how the settings are controlled since it doesn't have a built in screen? do you connect a screen over that SDI connector or HDMI and control settings from there? curious how much less weight one of these would be compared to the big black magic 8 pro or whatever it is you are using? looks like it could be an affordable options possibly? but not really sure whats needed to operate these big professional cameras? I'm always looking for a challenge and love CAD design ,engineering and manufacturing things. been flying FPV for 8 or so years, flew belsa RC planes as a kid from 7 to 18 or so aswell. anyways, let me know what you think when you have a second. appreciate your time.
For Micro Studio you use an HDMI Monitor to preview the image and navigate the menu via the buttons or if the firmware supports it, if using a Portkeys LH5/7 monitor it can be controlled via bluetooth (much more manageable). The Micro studio is comparable weight with naked BMPCC4K without having to be decased, but it has a slightly smaller sensor, and does not support ProRes (not much processing power in that little camera). For HMDI out video feed to "video village" on a production, an HDMI transmission setup like the DJI one is best.
@strawhatsam hey sam, looking to redesign a 7/7.5" frame I've designed and was wondering your thoughts on KV? my plan was to run 7.5" with 1350KV 2810 brother hobby motors but am making it possible to handle 8" props and the gemfans are the ones I'd prefer to run, what are your thoughs on KV you think the 1350's will be way to much? its a touch high for 7.5" I think already. not sure what to do. brother hobby is giving me a super steal of a deal on motors and was going to get 10 motors to build two of them with 2 spares. just not sure if I should go 1180kv? I'm not into the super heady freestyle retarded style flying where you can't see whats in front of you at any point in time lol, I like cinematic stuff more, but where I live is shite so that hinders the ability to fly beautiful places unless traveling. worried about under powering the craft. It was initially setup for 7" but going to go 7.5" from now on and possibly 8" if i like it. what do you suggest or think about this? appreciate you time and your help.
Which 7.5" props are you planning to use? If it's the HQ Prop 7.5X3.7X3 props then I highly recommend you not using those in general. They are inefficient (despite the low pitch), have poor harmonic distribution (lowest frequency resonance is strong = vibes in footage), and they feel pretty terrible in the air. I wasn't aware the BH sold a 1350kV variant with their 2810 stator. If you are purchasing it from Amazon and the thumbnail pic has a obscured label, chances are it's a clone and will have issues. I would get 1180kV motors from a reputable supplier and run 8in props, skip over 7.5in. 8in will give you noticeable efficiency boost over 7in, which may be more your jam since you like the scenic stuff.
@@strawhatsam I was looking to run the gemfan 7.5" 7537 props. The HQ ones, just by looking at and testing the they are shite in comparison. I'm getting motors direct from BH they do have the 1180 & 1350kv options in the 2810 think the 1350kv is a newer option. I feel like I want to be able to run both sizes on the same setup if need be or even 7" if is like to or have a smaller area to fly. Need to get the ordered but don't want to make the wrong move. There are loads of fake brother hobby motors out there now. Not sure what to do? Appreciate the help & your time 🤝
