I used this kit: dealer.klsupply.com/suspension/k-l-fork-tube-rebuild-kit.asp Part # 15-5368. Correct for my ‘96 virago but I can’t guarantee the same parts will fit your ‘83. Maybe check that website though, K&L seems to stock rebuild kits for a variety of other bikes and model years too.
It’s custom control software that I wrote to run on an arduino, it’s pretty simple. Check my newest video on the project for the latest code version, I have it posted on GitHub open source.
Have you looked into higher resolution options for the sonar to be able to map submerged objects? This is an awesome project that I can see having a lot of neat applications.
That’d be pretty far out of my budget unfortunately. Maybe I’ll look into fancy side scans one day but for now this project is just scoped at rough topographical maps.
Excelente serviço, estou aprendendo muito com seus vídeos. esses sistema de escaneamento seria muito útil aqui na região, brasil. aqui há muitos rios com pedras, só quem é da região conhece, porem ainda ocorre muitos acidentes.
Cool boat. I like the low profile of it minimizing wind drag forces. I have some ideas you might want to consider. Since you have bidirectional running motors, it might be simpler to just use differential thrust for steering. Less components to break and easier to control if you only need thing to tune one thing. Also what kind of gps receiver do you use? You can imrpove the accuracy of your boat with a f9p rtk receiver and a ntrip service to a few centimeters level of precision. It will help with navigation too. Cheap gps recievers can have an error of 5meters and having you actual location jump around isnt helpful.
My first version of this boat used only differential thrust. I think the rudders are a more efficient way to make fine adjustments because it doesn’t need to constantly accelerate/decelerate the props, they just stay at a constant speed during the long straightaways. This gps is a cheap neo-6m, it doesn’t really jump around much. Precision is more important than accuracy for this.
@@Clay-Builds i agree that they are more efficient during straights but that shaft play must go 😆 but for 90 degree turns the diff thrust would be more effective. You could easily switch steering control if desired angle is larger than lets say 10 degrees either way. Also adding some type of fin keel on the hulls will help with horizontal drift.
Man that's absolutely amazing! We have one of these at my university, the N200 model I think. I didn't know what it was when I first saw it, I asked around a bit and the only info I could gather was that it was "a robot", so I had no idea what exactly it did or what it was for. I knew it looked really cool tho lol What you did here was awesome, I loved the idea of reprogramming it with modern microcontrollers Do post more updates if you get SLAM going on that thing! Thanks for sharing, good luck!
Awesome, maybe you can bring that one back to life one day. I’d be curious to see some of the other models, the N150 is one of the most basic ones I believe.
This is fantastic work! I cant f**king wait to see the SLAM. I am working on a omni robot but I am still stuck on the drive system but I hope to have some mapping and autonomous movement. As for the more powerful controller I would recommend a intel nuc if you can get one cheap second hand. A bit bigger but you get a full x86 with the option to expand ram, storage and I think it has a pcie slot. All the luck with the N150!
Thanks man. Omni drive systems have definitely proven to be a viable option for a lot of commercial applications in recent years, specifically things like warehouse logistics robots. Most of those Omni systems are 3DOF which is useful for maneuvering but more mechanically and electronically complex. 4 wheeled mecanum systems typically even have 4 independent drive motors. The 2DOF drive train this N150 has is simple to control, only one drive and one steering motor. I’ll look into an intel NUC but hoping to get ROS running on an old pi I already have laying around. I don’t think I need a ton of compute power for this since the point cloud is pretty low res and slow updating.
@@Clay-Builds Yea that is fair, the only reason I am using a NUC is because I want to run everything locally and have zero wireless connections but a PI and the cloud should work great! If you get the chance you should try and remake some of the use cases in the pics you found. A bit of sport and a arm would be epic.
Hey, I’ve been working on it a lot lately actually. Got the ultrasonic array working, and dead reckoning the position with the encoders. Also added a wifi chip to control it wirelessly with a laptop displaying telemetry on a basic gui via processing. Still running the original motor drivers, power distribution, and sonar control/multiplexing board, but I’ve essentially rebrained everything with modern microcontrollers running c++. I plan to post an update video soon. Next major step is I want to integrate ROS and play around with some SLAM algorithms. The only remaining hardware I haven’t gotten to work yet is the bumper/pressure sensors around the circumference, so I’ll need to mess around with that too. Do you have any info on how the bumper sensors work? I’ve been really enjoying bringing this robot back to life as a side-project when I have free time, it’s certainly been a learning experience.
I would love to see you build a custom 27Mhz digital transmitter for communication with boats 😃 because the currently available modules are limited by range, I think it would be better to select a CB frequency and make a custom radio transmitter and reciever, most probably use bit bashing protocol to send digital control signal... Good luck 🤞
❤ i like it. Very useful tool indeed and having more weight capacity would mean wind and waves wouldn't harsh it's efficiency as much ive described these as an option in many chats it's good to see them being built and tested
I’ve thought about using LiDAR to detect obstacles and the shore, not sure yet if it’ll be feasible to get good performance on a low budget. Realistically, I won’t be operating this where people are swimming.
Hi here in Florida with over 10000 “lakes” large enough to hold a car, there are over 1500 vehicles in the lakes and about .5%-1% have a person in them. The vehicles are hard if not impossible to see them. If you used this to map the bottom, the data can be mined to find vehicles. One to save the environment of the lake and to solve 15 missing persons. Thank you for making this
@@xx_VP_xx Here's the files for the mold I used to build the hulls, I'll upload a complete assembly model once I verify my updates to the rudder linkage are working nicely: makerworld.com/en/models/592424#profileId-514076
Cool project! 1. Your rudder mount causes a lot of drag! I bet you can get way better efficiency out of it if you don't drive a flat wall into the water 😄😄 Maybe just have a solid top bearing assembly and nothing at the bottom. Something akin to a semi-balanced rudder. Try to keep the bearings completely out of the water, just a rudder going down. 2. My tip is to get some DCM (Dichloromethane) it is awesome for PLA 3D prints you can "glue" parts together so easy, it is hand tight in a sec. to a min. (depending on the area you "glue") and it is basically as strong as the PLA it self if it fully dyes. I say "glue" because it is actually chemical welding (but nobody got time for that 😅) You need very little for welding, a bottle will last you a LONG time. Well I found many other uses for it too, because it is basically Acetone on steroids. It evaporates so fast and no stinky smell. So keep your bottle open as short as possible and use in ventilated area, well like all stronger solvents. PS: You can also dissolve PLA in it to make a PLA "resin"/glue :)
There’s a printed fairing to streamline the base of that flat motor mount part, probably not very obvious in the video. I don’t really have a need to glue any PLA parts together for this. My redesigned servo mount will be a monolithic PETG part.
The ESC’s I was using when this video was filmed were not bidirectional, so no way to reverse them without physically swapping wires around. I’ve also since ditched the 0-180 degree servo logic completely, it makes more sense to just use discrete PWM value in microseconds, 1000-2000 in this case.
Anyone try the inverted forks from Jetco? Heavier wall since the fork is one of them inverter style. $200 including of course the 40mm crowns and spec steerer. While I was in there I did my bearings. I was front fenderless for a spell but found a similar also metal n chrome. The front end sits 2" higher. Haven't blown the seals in them yet, lol. .
Man this project is awesome! I was looking for something exactly like this, as I was trying to create an unlimited range endurance boat drone that would be able to go out into open waters and collect data in the middle of the Atlantic. It would be pretty big, around 6ft long and covered in solar panels, with gps and all that. It would be completely enclosed as to not sink if it got caught in a big storm and flipped over or whatever. My aim was to send it out for maybe a few weeks at a time or maybe even have it just go around the world. It’s a bit more ambitious than this and quite expensive so when I graduate and start working I’ll make it but for now I have to wait hahahah
I’m currently wrapping up a 6ft long version of this with much more power. It’s not sea worthy though, but I’ll be able to do some very long range freshwater missions. I think an ocean capable boat like this would be awesome to build, but waves/weather and long range communication would be a big challenge.
Very interesting, I congratulate and admire you for executing such a good idea. I have been motivated to do something similar as a project for my studies and also contribute knowing that it is open source. I would like to know if you have tried with a cheaper sonar sensor. I'll be watching, I read you.
Thanks, I’m about to wrap up version 2. Early on, I experimented with using a basic fish finder style depth sounder, I think it was a Hawkeye brand for about $50 used. I took it apart and tried to tap an analog signal off the transducer lines to detect pulses, but never got it to work reliably. Maybe you could find a basic depth sounder with NMEA output that could be readable with Arduino.
@@Clay-Builds I was looking at some sensor called MaxBotix MB7052 for 100 dls getting a reading range of 50cm at 10m, but it is a lot of money to just start testing. My option now is to go for the JSN-SR04T, an ultrasonic sensor module that works just like the HC-SR04 but with a range of up to 4 meters and surely has nothing to do with NMEA but I think it is still possible to record data (minimally good) although surely the boat will have to be quite slow? I'll look into swapping it for a better sensor later. Do you have any direct contact to share with you my progress on the project?
Those sensors are all intended for use in air only. I wouldn’t assume they work underwater. I wouldn’t even bother unless it has an IP rating of 68 or 69. There are some arduino libraries that can pretty easily interface with those, but you’ll at least have to account for the speed of sound difference in water. The sensors themselves may have an enclosed volume of air around the diaphragm that could be problematic underwater, they’re not proper piezoelectric transducers. Firmware certainly won’t account for surface reflections and things like that either. Boat speed will be negligible at this scale. I think you’re better off modifying a fish finder or off the shelf depth sounder to communicate with arduino. I prefer not to be contacted directly.
I am planning to build a robotic boat capable of carrying a 50 kg payload over a 300-meter distance, following a rectangular path with four waypoints starting from the home point. The application is for an automatic fish feeder. Could you please provide guidance with this project.
That’s a pretty heavy payload, you’ll need more displacement than this thing. Could use much larger pipes for pontoons, but they start to get expensive at bigger sizes. I’m currently working on a fiberglass hull version designed for a 15kg payload. I think fiberglass hulls is a good option at a 50kg scale too, but you could also consider inflatables, or just modify a pre built kayak/canoe. I think 50kg worth of displacement would need some significantly more powerful motors to achieve any reasonable speed and control, especially in wind/current. The code I’m running here can easily handle a 4 waypoint mission, you could add in a function to drop the fish food at certain coordinates or time intervals.
The motors themselves are not sealed against water ingress. I used hot glue around the soldered joints on the back of the motor to prevent shorts between the individual phase wires. Also hot glue to fill in the drilled holes where the motors wires pass through into the electronics box. I’d use a proper potting compound if I were to redo it, but never caused a problem as it was in this video. Also notably, the pass through into the electronics box is not submerged, just keeping splashes out. Surely it would leak if below the waterline.
@@Clay-Builds Thanks for the fast and good reply! I'm doing my first underwater tests with electronics right now and I'm surprised how well hot glue seems to work all the time.
