We are an outdoor products startup in Logan, Utah. We're focused on building innovating products for committed climbers while helping to preserve the outdoor environments that make climbing great.
Our name, "PitchSix" is derived from being a committed enough climber to climb six pitches in a day. That might be in the gym, at the crag, or on a multi-pitch route.
We are ascending. We think of that word in a broad sense. To us, ascending means climbing, but it also means growing as climbers, as people, as community members and as residents of the planet.
Great computerized measurements for your climbing assessments, Isometric workouts and even rehabilitation! So thankful that i was graced to of purchased one! Absolutely love it, now i have plenty of of different programs within the app that i can do! Great support, and i thank you guys so much for such a great engineering feat in creating this!!
This is a great routine! I’ve been doing this for a few months have gotten significantly better. Are there any charts for how hard people can pull on different grips at different bouldering levels?
We are about to release a strength vs skill chart that shows climbing grade vs two hand peak force on a 20mm edge. We haven’t compiled data yet on different edge sizes.
Seems like the yielding really works my shoulders and hamstrings. That's fine, but it doesn't seem very climbing-specific. Shoulder issues aside, wouldn't weighted hangs be more specific?
@ryan weighted hangs are good for sure. One advantage of floor pulls is that it is less load on your shoulders. I've talked to a number of (older) climbers that struggle with traditional hangboarding due to shoulder load. From your finger flexor perspective, floor pulls or overhead pulls aren't much different. The convenience of floor pulls is hard to beat and really helps isolate the fingers flexors. If hamstrings or shoulders get feel fatigued, performing overcoming isometrics with a single hand should solve the issue. Then you could perform weighted pullups separately to target the larger pulling muscles (lats, traps, biceps, etc).
Like, I can do them with shoulders tucked in or straining to keep them out. Is one better? Also, I'm using the flash board, but would something with a wider stance be better, so hands could be shoulder width apart?
@@ryanmcdermott657 That was the intent of this video, but perhaps we didn't explain it well enough. We also discussed in this blog post: pitchsix.com/blogs/blog/overcoming-vs-yielding-isometrics I think the flash board is good, just be careful to not trap the board against your knees and push up as it can add to the weight measurement. The key elements for a body position mimic that of a deadlift at mid-thigh closely: - Some bend in the knees (less required for an overcoming isometric, more if you really want to pull hard yielding) - Flash board from just above the knee to about mid thigh - Back exaggeratedly straight (like you're picking up a fridge) - Shoulder blades together with traps fully engaged - Chest proud (sticking forward)
I would say its more that grades will be less useful the more of an outlier you are. A short person that is avoe to fit into a very small box will find some sit start boulders are much easier than the stated grade, if the initial grade was given by a taller climber. And likewise a tall climber that can just reach past the crux on a vertical route probably wont agree with the stated grade
I think the outlier comment is a good one--to far above or below the standard is often a disadvantage. I had a young man on my climbing team that was below standard deviation in height for his age category. The route sets were often out of his reach, without intermediate feet to compensate. As a result, he developed a lot of power to overcome those big moves. As he grows into his height, he'll benefit from that extra power.
Proof: climbing is 50% easier when your weight is 20kg lighter! (also crimps for tall people are jugs for small) Some moves are easy for tall, some for small, some for more flexible, some for more mobility...
Awesome video, cool comparison, I'd agree here the route is easier for the taller climber but not by much, move 18-19 for example. As soon as things get very steep or you add bouldering and sit start boulders into the mix the playing field levels out massively and imo swings in favour of shorter climbers a lot of the time! Awesome they're both crushing 8a
Move 18 and 19 (on taller person) is one place where there is a distinct height advantage. Kat (shorter) has to do two extra difficult, high-tension moves where Cody (taller) dynamically moves through with one move from relatively good holds.
yeah but another thing to consider is taller people\people with long arms have worse endurance and get pumped more easily (but yeah for this climb it is easier for the taller person)
Much easier to climb harder grades when shorter. Taller has a higher center of gravity, bigger fingers, more weight and harder to fit in small boxes. Theres a reason all the best climbers are quite short. Being tall is only an advantage on easy-moderate grades
Not true. Ondra said that for a short climber some of the routes would simply be impossible to climb. 3 of the 5 best climbers are tall: Ondra, Bouin and Schubert. Bosi and Ghisolfi aren't tall, but I believe Diaz-Rullo is tall, Chris Sharma as well. Megos is 173. In the bouldering gym it is usually much easier to climb harder grade if you are tall. This is just a fact. Tall climbers have it easier, in general, for their own admission. Just the other day, a Japanese climber, told me he found London gyms harder, because here we have bigger moves compared to Japan, which is well known to have the hardest gym. But for him London ones are harder due to the fact Japanese are small people.
Based on my observation, outliers have it worse. For men it seems around 1.73m is the best. Gives lots of options while still remaining pretty light. Tall people usually struggle a lot with bigger levers and small boxes, sometimes to the point where the climb is close to impossible, but no one notices that because it's easier to notice a short person can't reach what is usually the next hold (so unfair!!! You hear that all the time in gyms; eye roll) I'll remain careful and just say that being far from 1.73m as a man gets equally harder either way but it's just a dumb, die hard legend that being shorter is harder. Being tall at lower grades is very impressing for the noobs because you can skip 2 holds and grab the next best jug. That party trick gets harder and harder as the grades become harder. It's good for Adam Ondra to be that successful DESPITE his height; he's also not the usual tall climber type, being extremely light, even for climber standards and flexible and generally a glutton for punishment who started extremely young. For most other tall climbers, the square cube law is a losing battle.
While I agree that there is a height bias in climbing it is important to note that it can occasionally go both ways. In this case and many others it benefits the taller climber however it is importantl to note that more height can also mean more weihht
The title is pretty misleading id say. Climbing may be beneficial if youre taller up to a certain point. If taller was better, we'd see climbers who look like Kevin Durant, but we don't, actually the opposite. The data shows the average height among the top comp climbers is about 5'7'-5'8". So actually roughly average height is an advantage. It's very rare to see top comp climbers pushing 6'+ apart from some rare outliers, let alone a 6'4" climber for example. Also keep in mind that one of the best sport and boulderers in the world, Sean Bailey, is only 5'4". Extremely short and extremely tall climbers are at a disadvantage. Better to be somewhere around average +/- couples inches. Its also far better to be short than too tall
Agreed. Looking at 8a.nu, the top men are about 5’8-5’10”. Top women about 5’2”. I acknowledge the clickbait title, but also say it’s a fun comparison to have.
routesetters have the span and height of each climber so they adjust so it is theoretically possible for all competitors to complete the route/problem. This is not the case in nature thus when it comes to vertical and slab most routes/problems is easier for tall people. Overhanging, not so much. Some people argue that its hard for tall climbers to fit in small boxes which I find somewhat true but a tall climber can work on his mobility / flexibility to fit in most boxes. A short climber will, in general, have higher finger strength to body weight ratio and the "lever" in overhang will be less. When it comes to grades I hate them as a short climber since they don't make any sense for me at all most of the time. I have downgraded 7B+ boulders to 6C/+ and upgraded 6B to 7A. I hope AI will soon be able to give more accurate personal grades though to help me pick which boulders to work on when on trips. :) In conclusion I don't think comp climbers should be included when we compare due to routesetting adjusting to height/span of competitors. There are advantages and disadvantages to all body types. Grades mostly just apply to average sized climbers. As a beginner / intermediate climber there is probably a small advantage overall to be slightly taller than shorter but top end climbing it might be a slight advantage to be just a bit shorter when it comes to overhang / roof. Thats what I strongly believe :)
@@pitchsix 5'8'' to 5'10'' is fairly close to actual average height in a lot the countries that send people to world cups to climb as well. Japan's average height for example is just over 5'7'' with the younger generations being above that.
As a routesetter, height/morphology is uncredibly complicated and difficult to accommodate for. Climbers will always gravitate towards choices that fit their stylistic comfort zone, and so a comparison on the same route is a strange one for me. There are routes i would never touch that shorter folks are stoked on and do well on. A larger climber is going to feel more comfortable in a larger box, doing more powerful movements to hollow-body positions but that wastes energy. A shorter climber may be more sequential on the same route, finding tensioned positions that favor cross body tension and stable positions. Of course, you can train either or, but at the end of the day every single climber out there is going to climb an outdoor route just a bit differently. In the gym, routesetters cannot be reasonably expected to accommodate to every combination of moves. We basically answer the question, "what are they going to do there?" By making the sequence around the moves "equitable on the margin of style".
Nice comment and an interesting comment from a route setter. One nice thing about outside routes are more choices for feet which can accommodate different box sizes much better than gym routes. Have you ever set more feet options on indoor routes?
Especially on plastic, bouldering in particular, can be extremely hard for a short climber do dynamically moves that can be done statically by a taller climber. It happens to me all the time, that a move for me is way harder, and there is no way for me to hold my feet in position, because my hand otherwise can't reach. Overall, on plastic, I think tall climbers have it easier.
@@biomorphic You just notice it more. When tall climbers don't have good feet options because they're so high relative to the hands, you just shrug and think "they just need to get stronger hehe"; but it's similar for shorties: you can just get stronger and hold the position after cutting feet. It's just that one is more noticeable.
Thanks @conserve... We're trying to make this as accessible for all--which also includes making sure we have cash flow to do that! If you're a new user, go to the Settings/Device Info screen and connect to your device. Doing this "registers" the device and gives you a three-month pro subscription.
Just received my force board combo package over the holidays and can’t for the life of me snap the aframe on the plate like this video because the snaps are too tight. Is there a way to make them looser so I can use it in the way shown here?
Hi Britney, snapping onto the plate is a secondary objective for the Force Board. The initial design is to snap onto the belt and I'd recommend using that primarily as it's a bit simpler. The diameter of the d-rings on the belt is 5.0mm. The diameter of the plate loops is a bit over 6mm, so it is harder to snap onto the plate. If you really want to try, then align the poles vertically. I just tested that and it snapped on easier with a pole that whose snaps have been used a bit more than yours have. They are probably a bit looser.
@@pitchsix Jarrell Lindsay, Coach Paul Wade, Drew Baye, Stan Plusken, Dennis Rogers, Pete Sisco, Doug McGuff, and anyone in their circles. This is where you'll find people bending steel. This is where you'll find a new tribe.🙏
Matt mentioned a few times his max pull is above 300lbs. How does that translate to hanging with max? If say Matt has a body weight of 150lbs can he max with 200%BW? It just sounds like an insane peak force. Having done consistent hangboard training for about 3 year now I am at about 160% BW.
Hi Emile, I'm off this mark right now, but my best 2-hand 20 mm peak force was 338 lbs at a body weight of 162. That's a bit over 2x body weight. We've measured a lot of people in this test. The best we've recorded so far is 368 lbs pull for a 130 lb person. That translates to 283% of BW! Again, that is with two hands on a 20mm edge (no wrapping the bar with thumbs). In general, we are seeing two one-hand peak pulls roughly sum to your peak force with two hands. We're also seeing most folks be even on pull up vs pull down pulls.
It was very difficult. Pulling on the rope just tightened it over the ankle, increasing the pain. I had to find some holds on the rock and then eventually the quickdraw to pull up on. Avoid at all costs!
Hey @ambrose13, of course every situation is different. In this particular case, I inspected the stopper carefully and felt it was a good piece. Looking at the climbing section, I felt like I might actually fall. I chose to put a sling on the piece and stepped in the sling. It held my weight and I was able to reach edge of the summit block and mantle to safety. It wasn't quite as easy as that sounds though. Even though I could reach the top, everything above the lip was covered in about 4 inches of moss, fed from snowfields on the summit. I was grasping for anything I would reach, but all I was able to grab were fistfuls of wet moss! It was 10PM and dark already. I had failed to pull out the headlamp before starting the pitch so vision was difficult. l was dreading falling backward into the darkness and what I was sure would be a huge fall if the piece below didn't hold. I eventually managed to unearth a couple of wet handholds from below the moss and did the beached whale move onto the top. Finally safe!
