I may make a video start to finish how I do it as you and some others have asked. I have a AIM GPS and Logger setup with my dash so it records G forces, lap times and all that. My S300 is fed to the aim dash for data. Simultaneously the logger records ecu data and lap data in sync. Afterwards I align that with my GoPro footage in Race Render. Surprisingly it takes me maybe 5 minutes start to finish.
I have the main body of it drawn up along with the fins. Then I have roughly 4 brackets I made from flat stock that I just bent to be an L with 4 quick disconnect push buttons. If you message me on Instagram (justingadell) I can share some pictures
Was was just wondering what your opinion of that coating is 4 years later and did it bring down under hood Temps like you thought? I'm getting ready to do big block Chevy headers for a 72 Chevelle with a big block in it. Have had good luck with VHT paint system, but chemical resistance sucks unfortunately.
So, it still holds great actually. That said this cerakote actually helps the item rid head faster. Found that out with some more research and testing so keep that in mind
@whereisamerica7384 I appreciate it. Holding up 10/10…for a header…ehhh if trying to keep heat in it’s not the best. I was getting lower temps due to it helping get the temp out
@@justingadell I have been using that titanium exhaust wrap it works extremely well. The car that I'm working on now for a friend he doesn't like the look . So I'm trying to find another solution
Hey nice video. NC Miata owner here. I installed the same Kenwood unit about 6 years ago; I also installed a Kenwood HU before that. (It’s only by coincidence they’re both Kenwood 😅). I found I like having the remote at hand to more easily adjust the bass levels to the audio I’m listening to. For news/talk I turn it way down. For newer music that has more bass mixed in, I turn it up slightly. For older music (“modern” jazz, “classic rock that really rocks”), I turn it up more. Also with the top down at highway speeds I turn up the bass more so I can also turn up the HU volume without distortion. I spent a lot of time playing with the subwoofer output settings in the HU itself. I’m not an audio professional nor did I seek one, I just read up on what the HPF and LPF do. I basically have a very slight overlap of frequencies between the subwoofer and the door speakers. It’s important to not only filter the frequencies going to the subwoofer, but ALSO to filter (block) lower frequencies (those in the subwoofer’s own frequency spectrum) from the door speakers. I used some of the sound test / frequency sweep videos on RU-vid to test and adjust the settings to my liking. I could actually hear and feel the sound move from the subwoofer to the door speakers without any “gaps” In coverage, nor any distortion. I found The Beatles’ “Come Together” was a good test track, as it is both very bass-heavy but also has vocals and electric piano/organ & guitar. Before the subwoofer install, the instrumental bridge sounded awful, muddy and flubby. After, by taking away the responsibility of the door speakers to produce bass notes, it was much much clearer.
What is rhe size of the hood louver in the middle , the big one . I have a cf hood that i got with my car , with a big hole init to clear the f20b and turno manifold, how wide and how long is it ?
Big Center Louver measures approx 25.5”x22.5”x15”. First measurement is the top of the louver across and the second is the measurement at the bottom as there is an angle.
You need to be setting “0” if you will from say the center of your hub/axle nut something like that. The string to the edge of rim doesn’t matter if you are staggered ect if your 0 is set the same. Not sure if that makes sense
@@justingadell my hubs are not same distance rear and front lol in widenes , but i figured it out if i take only let say rear both sides to be excat width and make paralel like you did it should be perfect box
The more positive offset or further away the rim mounting is from the wheel bearing it will cause more wear. That said I’ve been tracking with a +25 and been good…+15 should still be fine. May just have to check the wheel bearing more
I’ve had her since like 2008…she’s part of family and so much time and effort/tweaks/revisions have gone on. I’m not sure I have an actual price. To play the opposite out of curiosity…what do you think she’s worth?
@@justingadell idk , I have a hatchback ef b20 vtec paint 7.5/10 interior 7/10 and I wouldn't ask for less than 7k And I just ask you how much would you sell your crx for to start saving from now on 🤣🤣Do you work on other people's cars? Because I would like to put the hood vents, the fenders, side skirts and the wing on my ef, if I do all that I won't sell it.
Understandable, I mean I help out buddies cars if/when they ask but I don’t have room to actually take somebodies car in per say. For the fenders I’m working on. I would probably be done if I was just making them for my car. Some things would be easier per car for me
I’ve discussed it briefly with some buddies. Aside from that, haven’t looked to much into it on cost or setup ect. Moving the IAT isn’t even really a fix, it’s just I know that’s not the actual air temp going into the engine.
Ive had the parts to do this to my Eg for a year. I think this will give me the motivation to get it done. Man i love that car and love that its a B series even more. The K is great but a B series just look at home in there with the classic valve cover.
Hard to feel a real noticeable difference. Sometimes under real hard 100+mph braking sometimes I’d hear a “creak” wtf it was but now I don’t. It could be the fire way flex folks speak of but not sure. Cheap added insurance
It’s hard to give any actual hard data to showcase. One thing I’ve noticed along with 2 customers was they can close there door easier while it’s up on jackstands. If your front is jacked up try to open and close the door, you may experience some sag…it removed that for them
I appreciate that! She’s truly awesome and super grateful to have her by my side. The red S I just picked up hopefully will get more track footage of her ripping that thing. She takes this one occasionally but the S will be a dedicated car
Yes I am! If you watch my latest track day video, it was 93 degrees outside and coolant temps hit I believe 204 max by the end of the day. Granted I’m not on track for more than 10 mins max at a time
@@justingadell normally the bearing is changed with the pinion at Honda. apart from you, you managed to change the bearing alone. Do you have its reference….or its dimensions?
The bolt on GoAutoworks kit also made 400hp in Florida. This video is all GoAutoworks kit except I made my own intercooler piping accommodate things. Otherwise yea his bolt on kit would easily do this
@@justingadell I have no idea how you send you a message over RU-vid. I found you on FB and sent you a DM. We have very similar cars. I have a fresh sleeved b series coming and a hard a built 5 axis cnc ported head ready to go. Just can't decide if I'm going 2.2L stroker b series or if I want to try a turbo again. Last time I had oil temp issues
Wazzzzup J-dizzle... you already know...strip it, weld pull points n use a Come-Along and chain... once "straight"...address areas not participating...as you said, lights n trunk fitment will make you fine tune some areas while deleting other areas... work/strip it clean all around ...progress on everything else will motivate you for rear... some good ideas on here already with tube frame support and fuel cell etc...as usual...write down what yer doing n attack that list...should be fairly painless as you've trained yourself already w other projects! Kiss da wife n get your beverages ready Let's go!!!
