Hello. I have a 8 month old 10 t hydraulic hand pump (seltech) and doesn't hold pressure anymore. The handle is rising up same time with the hydraulic piston rod when it goes down. I've changed the oil, try with another new piston, but nothing. Can anyone help? Thanks.
How do you bleed it? I added oil to mine and the piston goes out with handle up then back down and so does the piston with with the down stroke and very little pressure in it.Mine is different than yours. the fill plug is at the bottom of the jack.
if it is "bobbing" up and down with movement of handle, you have DIRT in the valve assembly OR you MAY also have to reseat the ball bearings for proper operation. My guess is you've already figured this out or had it repaired already.
@@AlessioSangalli First you need to try to bleed the pump first as I described above. Make sure you have oil in reservoir (should have a dip stick), hold it vertical and check oil level. If it has oil, leave it vertical and open release valve and pump about 6-7 times (you should feel resistance), then close release and pump about the same, 6-7 times and you should see the piston moving. PISTON MUST BE BELOW PUMP, like on the floor and hand pump higher on bench than piston (sometimes works better this way) Hopefully this helps, As I really have no idea your exact issue or brand. If the piston "Bobs" up and down as you move the pump handle then you have an issue with dirt or bad seats in the valve housing. Good luck. Tom in NV
Hi, can you post a pic of the full parts list as partially seen between times1.24/1.28 please. Trying to revive a pump someone else took apart and wondering if I’m missing any of the small parts...
Thank you for the video! I just picked one up, the controller looks good, needs a good cleaning and coat of paint. New hoses. But think it will be a good piece for my workshop. :)
Hi there, I just picked up one of these and it's in pieces. Could I ask how the wiring is supposed to work? I have 2 heaters and 1 thermal coupler. The temp control only has 1 output plug. Is one of the heaters unregulated? Any help is much appreciated! James
That's great. Good little machines. Welcome to the club. Yes, I can help you with how it's wired. Yes there are two things to control. The main heat band and the nozzle heater. The main heat band uses the thermal coupler and the Barber-Colman Capacitrol 272P Temperature Controller (Black box with temp gauge on the side) to set the heating chamber to the temperature that is right for the type of plastic you are using. Typically 300-500F. The nozzle heater is set manual with a 120/140v variable controller (the blue round box on the side) . In my case an original STACO Variac Variable Autotransformer. The nozzle heat was "dialed in" as they say as you went along. Hot at first then a little cooler as the mold and barrel start to warm up. Reach out to me directly if you have more questions. Also you can join the FB group "Small Scale Plastic Injection Molding" where my build log is posted.
@@DeadlineCMC Thanks so much for that explanation. I have the exact same controllers as you and that makes perfect sense! Tonight Ill try heating it up(after I make a purging block). Is the group called "Small scale plastic injection molding"? That's the closest one I found. Anyway appreciate that so much!
How thick is the plastic that you use and whats the name of this vacuum hole platform thing :)? I also want to build a mouse droid :D! Yours looks really gread ;)! Do you now have the full lengh mouse droid song? I hade read your comment. I could send you a download link. I found it on a mouse droid builder club website :)!
I use 1/8" ABS. Its very thick for an RC car body but as these mouse droids don't have bumpers you need a thick shell to standup to running into things.
Thanks. It works very well and I'm able to pull 1/8" ABS with about 70-75% of the vacuum power. The vacuum is so strong that it will pull the wood grain into the surface on the highest settings if I'm not careful.
