Thanks for the video. I may he have a similar issue. All of a sudden my cold starts after a few days. I need a little help from the throttle. Stepper motor is whining and has brand new battery.
I purchased a 14' super duke in hopes of engine swapping it into a yamaha raptor 700 atv. I fought this issue for 4 years...... after watching this video I got it running in 10 minutes! Thank you so much for posting this video!!!!!!
I had this exact same issue, MTC fails and the starter won't spin over. There was no sound of the TB servo "sucking". I lubricated the external throtle linkages and manually operated the throtle several times, this fixed the "no suck" and the engine cracked over and fired.
Well maybe you can help me. I have the same exact bike. Installed the Rottweiler stage 6 kit. And the bike was running well for about a week. Now I have nothing but mtc failure. No throttle. And when I try to change modes, it tells me to close the throttle. my bike does start my bike does run, but it just idles. There is no acceleration.
Same.. was installing a clear clutch cover and an orange pressure cap, was only tightening to spec (12nm) with the torque wrench, and the head of the 3rd bolt snapped... i will purchase a bolt extractor kit, and I have 3 new bolts on order 😂
I have stock bike with decat and austing racing pipe. All kinds of issues with rpms when in neutral. Sometimes even the bike shuts off. Ordered sas removal kit and power commander 6 from rottweiler. Hopefully fixes the issue.
Just an FYI, that may be a temporary fix. I see this is a few years old. There is an inherent condition with these new clutch setups. They ARE designed to slip. That is why they use (3) narrower fritctions. This reduces driveline shock and aids in the "slipper" action. You fix this issue by removing the entire pack. REORDER the last friction and steel. Put the narrower one as the second inside from the basket. USE the full size friction as the FIRST friction up against the inside basket. If you look close, you WILL see clutch material all over the first steel where it slips.
Getting slip at 7500 to rev 9000 in top gear on trackdays. To be clear- Discard/ substitute first 2 plates of stack with a new full size Friction and Steel outer plate pair to start assembly. Restack as usual per manual. Is there a url reference? Much appreciated.
That’s chuffing brilliant , ps what systems were u haveing with bike before adjusting . As mine is little lumpy at idiol and sounds like a deep induction butterfly rattle noise when under acceleration
Adding shims to increase clutch spring pressure is a waste of time and money. and will only increase the pull at the lever. The SD clutch grabs harder when torque increases, which is why it only has 3 small springs. This is the reverse of clutch slippage under load, such as downshifting, ergo slipper clutch. The stupid car oil caused the slippage.
Thanks for this video man!! I saw this video just in time before placing an order with Rottweiler. I found the price at Rottweiler very high for 2 plugs and 2 stainless steel bolts (almost 90USD!!!). I now buy the same as you have, thanks again!
got he KTM 690 smc, bought it because i missed doing wheelies on an SM but wanted something faster for better cursing.. it is a freaking dog down low then opens way the fuck up after what im assuming is about 5K RPMS.. You think this Dongle will smooth out the power delivery? Never rode a 4 stroke that feels like a Power valved 2 Stroke like this one..
replace the springs with "reinforced" clutch springs You will have no more problems. buy it here ... m.facebook.com/groups/382443468554838?view=permalink&id=1633725013426671
Good job for not being a mechanic. To make your setup easier, you can use 1 loop of tubing which will give equal water column height, then you won't have to have or mess with the plugs in the open ends.
Hey dude, thanks for the vid. Do you know - can adjusting/syncing throttle bodies impact valve clearance? I adjusted mine without use of a manometer, and got rid of a hanging idle, but the bike sounded a bit rough. I could hear a clicking, and am hoping it didn't mess with my valves. I tried to take it for a quick spin, but just pulling out of the driveway and making it half a block down the road it was obviously not right (jerky, lumpy, verge of stalling, rough sounding engine), so I turned around, put it in the driveway and killed it. I adjusted the screw back to where it was originally (based on the yellow paint on the screw), and hanging idle is still gone, runs OK, fires up quicker, but still sounds a bit different to me.
@@kilobravo2373 The shop ultimately fixed it for me. Don't try to do this without a good mercury meter. The problem is compounded because the fuel line isn't long enough to run with the tank moved so that the bodies are accessible. Rottweiler performance sells an extension to use for this procedure. Per the shop, the throttle bodies aren't meant to be adjusted. That's why there's yellow paint on them. Once you mess with them, they have to hook up to a legit Mercury meter and then hook up diagnostics tool and run some software. The "10 minute idle reset" people talk about is bullshit, UNLESS you have the diagnostic tool plugged in and are running the initialization program. There's a section in the repair manual about it, and it says the same thing. Gotta have the diagnostic tool and software to reprogram.
Dude, your vids are awesome and teaching me about parts of the bike I've been afraid to open up on my own. Thanks man! There's not a ton of 1290 mechanical videos online, so please keep em coming!
Cool, thanks for the info. I was thinking to put in springs from the Superduke GT, (orange) they have 1080 Newtons instead of the 984 Newtons green ones ...
hi bro so u do that because u have got too many miles on it ? N why u not put plugs in to replace the o2 sensor it will be lil better kind regrds from Paris
Hi yeah my bro i have a power commander so i have the same shit i have last month put plugs in the exhaust line i think that my bike is better now with a better sound. By the way bro can u put that shit on the dyno with N without it . Me i'm 160.7HP at the rear wheel . Thanks in advance by the way what will be ur next upgrades me that's carbon wheels . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7qRo2qgRZyw.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tDO_2a6B3tU.html Kind regards from Paris
Right side bro! On a stock bike, they are brass nipples that are attached to 1/4" hoses for the emission system.. If you have not removed the emission system (like I did), then you will have to unplug those hoses, balance the throttle bodies, and then plug them back in when you are done.
@@Med_Stud found them! I have a 1190 ADV R. They are on the left side on this one. You have to remove the throttle bodies to get to the nipples to replace with Tygon. Thank you for making that video. It is hard to find any info on the subject.
@@Med_Stud Yo- So the bleed nipples are on the exhaust side of the bike, and you just have the yellow tygon hose connected to them, and plugged with the thumb screw when you're out riding, right? It looks like you routed the tygon hoses to the left hand side (chain side) of the bike for storage over there? Is that right? Thanks for the video
