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Part of the foward pressurent adjustment is to check if the heel piece swivels with the binding engaged. You grab the heel piece and see if you can easily rotate it. Also the indicator being just past the tabs is considered okay. These binding take some attention to get just right.
Ability/Type/Level Means the same thing in this context. It's divided in Beginner (type 1), Intermediate (type 2) and Advanced (type 3) and is part of the DIN calculation formula.
@@snowcountry_euNot true. Someone can be of advanced ability and be Type 1 because they ski smoothly on mellows slopes while not being aggressive. Look at the DIN forms. There is a reason it's called "type" and not ability. Yes, advanced skiers are more likely to be Type 3, but they are not the same.
When the screw is like you said for forward pressure, it’s impossible for me to pu the shoe because the length of the fixation is too small compared to the one of my boots
Hi, a question. Regarding the pressure indicator - is it important that the black line is in the center of the white area, or can it also be slightly left or right of center? Thank you
@@snowcountry_eu Great video. To add on, what if the black marker is fairly close to the beginning, meaning it's popping up within the first 1/4th of the window. Upon picking up boot/shaking, the black marker is almost out of the window. By moving heel piece up (lower size), the marker is now at the last 1/4th of window. Is it preferable to have forward pressure at the earlier 1/4th or later 1/4th? Later 1/4th obviously is more pressure and seems to not be the best for disengage/release and it's digging more into the boot soles.
@@L3uX If you can see the black Marker this means the forward pressure is set correctly and within range. You can try to get it more centered but this is not necessary.
On mine the toe piece DIN setting appears to change slightly when the boot is secured. Do I want to match the DIN settings with the boot secured in or not?
Hi, how about moving the bindings forwards/backwards? For example can you ride 325 mm boot length on setting 335/315 which is by math the same length? So by doing that the binding would be 5 mm forward. Is this possible?
My exact question! How do you know the exact correct number for the red and the black numbers? Very grateful for this excellent video, I did give it a thumbs up but also -- I can't believe Luuk didn't address this as most would be wondering this.
Just pick the value closest to your BSL and make the fine adjustment by adjusting the forward pressure on the heel piece. If you have 306 go for 305 on the indicator and release the forward pressure slightly so the adjustment screw is flush with the housing.
@snowcountry_eu do both numbers have to match? So should both be set to 305? What are your thoughts on moving both forward a notch to give better turn initiation?
@@gsrlancer6 Yes they should both be the same. Playing with the position of the binding on the ski can change the characteristic a bit so that really depends on your personal preference and the type of ski.
Great Video! I have Tyrolia Attack Gw bindings on my K2 Reckoner 102 and the shop set my bindings too far apart - to the point where adjusting the back binding forward isn't enough. Is it possible to remount these bindings? Thanks!
Question: My binding is a Salomon X12 that looks like the video. It has the same AFD (black) like yours BUT the access cover to the setting faces the rear of the boot and nowhere does it say "GripWalk" on the binding. I was told that some of these bindings did not have the GripWalk logo during certain years and are still compatible. The only difference between yours and mine is no GripWalk logo and that cover 'press button' is facing the rear with a slightly different cover shape. Thoughts?
It is correct that these bindings have also been on the market as non-GripWalk versions. If there is no GripWalk logo on the binding or rail, you must assume that the binding is not GripWalk compatible. If you still have doubts, feel free to send some pictures to our customer service for more information. helpdesk@snowcountry.eu
If you read a binding manufacturers shop technical manual they actually offer a -1 skier type and +3 skier type. After properly adjusting the boot to binding and setting the proper DIN every manufacturer recommends performing a release check with a certified torque measurement device. The reason is that the boot and binding must function as a system. The boot sole that contacts the binding can alter the actual release force necessary to release the boot from the binding. Just because you set your binding to your recommended number doesn’t mean that it will actually release within the recommended range. By measuring the actual force required with a torque wrench the binding spring can be adjusted to the proper range if necessary. One of the first steps in a test is to visually inspect the boot sole for wear and make sure it’s dimensions are within standards. The new Grip Walk soles are not compatible with older bindings that only accepts the older ISO 5355 standard.
After owning for a week or so and trying this it’s a good concept in theory but terrible in reality. Not only is the filter paper a real PIA to insert in the pocket it gets balled up and crinkled easily, pops out too easily and just plain does not work well at all, at least as any kind of real practical face mask against covid.
Found this jacket at a local thrift store - CAN $275.00. Sizing is a bit off as I’m after a Large rather than XL. Still, really contemplating it... Thoughts?
It's a great jacket, the size is adjusted to have the inner layers of your size. I have exactly the same set as on this video, pants L, jacket XL - to allow not only for a fleece hoodies underneath, but also an insulation jacket from 60 to 150 mg/sqm. Really cool. Usual price is around 500 euro in Europe or around 600 US dollars. So your price is like a free lunch:)
