UPR Products was started in 1989 by long time Ford drag racer Mark Mainiero and his son Joe. Together with their employees Jeremy Martorella and Bart Tobener they amassed more racing victories and records than any other shop. Probably their greatest achievement was building the first 8 second True Street and undefeated 3 time World Ford Challenge winner 95 GT Mustang driven by Willie Figueroa. In 1998 Joe saw a need for a company that truly understood the Mustang racer’s suspension needs. His goal was to offer the strongest, lightest and best-working parts at an affordable price. He made customer service his highest priority and initiated an unconditional guarantee policy. A firm believer in the “keep it simple” philosophy Joe made sure all his components could be easily installed and adjusted. UPR Promises to sell the best parts possible at the best prices possible. If you-our valued customer-are anything less than 100% satisfied we pledge to resolve your problem to your satisfaction.
If I haven’t made any modifications to my engine (Super Charger). Do you think that I can run the 1.50 jet with my UPR catch can with no issues? Instead of the 1.25 size jet? I currently have the 5.0L single catch can setup for my 2023 f150 with a crankcase breather and my engine has a little bit of a rough idle with the factory PCV valve. I will look to add a Super Charger in the near future as well.
Smaller orifice = more intake manifold vacuum, larger orifice = less intake manifold vacuum. Usually, more vacuum = better idle quality. Either way, it's hard to say if the PCV is the cause of your rough idle issue.
So far I’m running the 1.50 jet size and it seem to have taken care of the little rough idle I had. I am running a closed UPR catch can set up and I have a 6in lift, 22in rims on 35in Toyo tires so my truck is moving a lot of weight. I do have a smoother feel on my gas pedal now than before. I was just going to go 1.25 jet size which on their website states is just a little more open than stock but with all the weight my truck has, the 1.50 jet size seems to do the trick. And I’m guessing that if 1.50 is too large, I’ll have sensors and lights going off on my dashboard. So I should be ok.
Both mine can use those 1 offset arms😂 there old though, Bought both at nmra back when it was still held at atco. Arms where before they changed the design with the middle support bar.
Thought the entire purpose of this plug was to eliminate the need to completely remove the drain plug. Just attach a hose, unscrew the cap, oil drains. If you say you have to remove and inspect it, why then go with the metal and not just stay with the normal plastic one?
To AVOID failures, splashing, and messes caused by the factory yellow plastic drain plugs. The ability to control oil flow is a massive plus to keeping everything neat and clean. The extra few seconds it takes to remove the plug at the end to get every last drop is simple and mess-free from draining most of the oil beforehand.
There was a guy on RU-vid who actually measured the amount of oil left behind (he completely drained the oil with the plug and then removed the plug to measure how much more came out). It was only a little bit...like 4 ounces or something. Very negligible. My truck takes 8.8 qts so 4 ounces is about 1%. Truck will never know the difference. They say to remove the plug in this video partially because that is 100% mimicking the factory guidelines for changing the oil (they say it because they kind of have to). So the bottom line is don't worry about the little bit of extra oil the valve leaves behind. But common sense says that it would be good to remove it every other or every third oil change to clean the magnet (I do this using 5k oil change intervals). Hope this helps!
I really like the design of this, but how do you drain the catch can? In the video I could see the ground under the truck, but my '17 has an engine bay cover down there, and it wouldn't be all that convenient to remove it to get to the catch can drain.
The easy setup would be to add a drain line to the drain valve and you can just have the drain line come out wherever you like to go right into an oil pan without removing any covers. We off drain line kits and hose as well for any application.
It seems my 2019 F150 2.7 EcoBoost engine has a built in oil/vapour separator built into the valve/cam cover. I did install catch cans on both the dirty and clean sides. I get about an ounce of oil on the dirty side every 5000 miles (approx) I check it spring and fall, when I do my oil changes. The clean side is 100% oil free when I check it. It actually looks like brand new when I open it. I don't think a catch can is really required on the 2019 2.7! 🙂 Also, since the 2019 has both direct and port injection the coking of the valves is pretty much eliminated. :-)
If the truck is a daily driver and isn't used for towing or hauling much, you will not typically see much in the clean side catch can. If the truck is used for towing and hauling, the engine will see boost more often and that is when you would see crankcase pressure escape from the driver side valve cover.
Great product! Will this plug design allow all the oil to completely drain or should the entire plug be removed at the end to remove any remaining oil? Thank you
start with the smallest restrictor and if you getting very little oil in your tank then move up to the next size. This will give you maximum oil control.
That is a big no no. Blocking off the inlet will effectively eliminate the crankcase vacuum and scavenging effect in the PCV system and cause blow-by and poor economy.
@@brandoncarpenter6555@brandoncarpenter6555 If you vent the valve cover, you eliminate the vacuum from the PCV system and reduce ring seal, mpg, and longevity. New technology thrives on PCV vacuum for better ring seal, pulling fresh air into the crankcase, and having more of a suction effect at all times, which is very beneficial for any engine. The key is to have the best UPR catch can system for your vehicle with high-flow check valves and a UPR one-way valve cover breather to be sure you are capturing oil before it reaches the cylinder, and you're all set.
Just installed today, very happy with it! High quality product! Make more stuff for the Mavericks? An aluminum under car shield would be an awesome replacement for the OEM fabric shield.
The benefit of having a crankcase breather is it vents all the hot air out and allows much cooler fresh air and unwanted crankcase pressure. They are beneficial, and you can easily maintain them by cleaning them periodically to remove oil vapors.
(PROBLEM): Oil Ingestion creates problems in the intake manifold, runners, and sometimes the throttle body. Oil buildup also occurs in the combustion chambers, allowing the fuel to be diluted and lowering the octane rating. This causes poor combustion and even cylinder detonation, possibly damaging pistons and/or rings. (This is common on all engines and should be corrected.) --------------------- (SOLUTION): A UPR multi-stage catch can utilizes multiple coalescing filters, not just a single-stage filter, and screen like inferior designs run on the inlet or outlet side of the catch can. The UPR Catch Can will increase mpg and overall performance. A True multi-stage coalescing filter catch can kit reduces engine maintenance and increases spark plug life.
Ok, install this on my 2012 JK and some things were a bit different than in the video which I could not access the video they want you to on their site using a QR code as it was down. The bolt holding the mounting bracket onto the computer that came with a kit was way way too long and would not allow me to mount the bracket without adding several washers to make up the space. Secondly, the bolt they sent was an Allen head and not the size depicted in their video above which I wish they would’ve left that alone because it would’ve been easier to tighten in a tight space than with an Allen wrench I also have the Baxter remote oil filter attached and was told this kit would not allow the hose to go around it to the PVC intake on the air snorkel, but it did fit. Seems to be very high quality the one thing that I really wish it would’ve had that the $25 kits always seem to have is a dipstick.
Glad you like it as it shows just how easy it is to replace the OEM letters with Higher Quality Replacement Letters for the BRONCO only from UPR Products.
It takes a very tight and compact engine room to fit an EcoBoost motor in a great chassis. It's worth the extra work to make sure you have the best oil separator to guarantee little to no oil ingestion for the best overall performance and mpg.
I saw some catch cans with an air filter sticking out of the top. Is that a good thing for the f150 3.5 ecoboost? Or would it cause a vacuum leak or something?
Not recommended as they cause vacuum leaks. The best Catch Can we offer is a system is a sealed unit for the F150 Ecoboost and add a UPR Baffled Billet One-Way Valve Cover Crankcase Breather to vent the hot air and unwanted crankcase pressure without affecting driveability. This will give you the two very best options for oil control and overall engine performance.
It's normal to get fuel in your oil in the catch can/oil separator. Most new engines get a lot of blowby and fuel through them, which is why it's recycled to the PCV system to be burned in the combustion chambers. Sometimes, after normal breaking, that will decrease a bit, but that is nothing to worry about.
So here in Canada I take my Mav into the dealer from time to time for warranty etc. The service clerk told me last visit (oil change as I was super busy), "oh our tech advised you have a catch can and there was a bit of fuel in the oil and it's due to the catch can installation you did", I nearly shat my pants as in how absolutely daft was this person and the technician who should know better. So in the USA you all have a court ruling in place and I was doing a search but coming up empty handed, anyone know what that was in the event my 2.0 shats the bed and I have to fight Ford on any warranty issues.
Installed my UPR oil catch can this evening, march 27th 2024 with 3,347 miles on the Odometer. Super oily in the dirty side as you pointed out and my clean side smells of fuel mostly. A few things to note as an aid to others. First for an old dude, you are pretty dang flexible! Haha! I’m 36 coming up and man that dirty side was a PAIN to get to. I felt like that John Edward Jones dude for a minute there. However you failed to note whether or not which catch can is the dirty or clean side. I had to simply look and see, okay skinny fittings are dirty and fat are clean, but some may be confused the first get go. I know, minor. Next, I do not recommend a pick on the orange fittings, on the clean side. I simply recommend going for the intake portion first. getting that little wire above the line out of the way by disconnecting it. Then, just straight towards your body, pull that thing from the intake part FIRST, it will snap free with relative ease if you’re strong enough. Then, simply tug straight UP on the valve cover portion and same thing, snap! Off comes that lame hose! Believe me I’m a total Neanderthal and i cut my hands a little with my lick until I saw another gentlemens RU-vid video, the Cuban Redneck. I stole his idea! Thanks buddy! I mean really that’s it. It is a pretty straight forward install. Best of luck to those out there modding their mavericks! Thanks UPR for my catch cans! Cheers!!
At 7:29 you make a comment that the air has to travel both ways through that tube. Is the catch that you're going to install on the clean side. Still going to allow The air to travel back and forth as it's needed?
Yes, the air still flows in both directions. However, you cannot install a check valve on the clean side, as it has to remain bidirectional. Only the dirty side gets a check valve.
Love your catch cans, have them on all my Fords. I have a question, can I get more info on the wheel and tire combo? I love the look and would live that setup on my Maverick.
I asked my Ford service manager if a catch can aka oil separator would void my warranty on my 23 2.3l Timberline he said why would it ? it's an improvement. Mine is a non vented can also.
If you have a racecar that is going to be at Wide Open Throttle most of it's life, or if it is boosted and spends most of the time in boost, a vent to atmosphere can is an advantage. If it is a street driven car, and is NA, there is no advantage to a vented can IMO. A closed catch can works best for most street driven applications.
What an awesome video, glad I found this. I’ve been researching lca’s for my mid 400hp new edge street car. I’ve always been under the assumption to not replace the uppers because of bind, but after watching this video I think it makes sense to purchase everything on that table. You might’ve just got yourself a first time UPR customer
