Since January 2019 I've been completely focused on everything guitar and music related. This includes learning how to play the guitar well (I've more or less dabbled since age 12 before then) and also songwriting, recording, guitar pedals and gear and DIY projects. I have 11 years experience in animation and 3D graphics; 12 years teaching digital graphics at University of Hawaii Community College Hilo; over 22 years experience in directing advertising, video production, marketing and public relations programs; 34 years experience in digital and multi-media graphics and 24 years internet development and internet marketing; over 36 years experience in producing commercial graphics for all forms of printed material. Over 16 years teaching art and digital graphics.
I just bought like new if not it might be new it's been sitting in storage I think she played it a couple times it doesn't look used at all the case that it comes with the guitar bag not a scratch on it I mean it's perfect it's brand new and I just shook my head I almost passed this guitar up because it was a squire. I initially went to go buy an amp from her for $25, a line 6 iv15w because she said it didn't work she gave it to me. I had left stopped off 2 miles down the road to grab a sandwich before heading back home and she called me back and said she forgot to offer me any guitars and one of them was a squire and I thought negatively of it but then I said let me go take a look at it because at least I'd have a fender Stratocaster body and the wood alone is worth more than $50 so I went back there and it looked brand new and I took it so now I'm just going to modify it it plays pretty well too and I got the guitar I'm working it was a switch so I locked out for $50 I got a 15 watt line 6 amplifier and this fender squire is pretty freaking nice not bad at all I can't even believe people make a big deal because of the name it's still the wood and the body of a fender Stratocaster just the parts are different and they can be changed out see customize it to your own liking and that's what I'm going to do and it brought me here lol
The "cheap" guitars today (like a Squier) are 50 times better than the cheap guitars I played in the 70's. Most of them were unplayable, especially acoustic guitars. But about 20 years ago, this changed in a huge way, because of CAD and CAM. Companies like Fender, were able to send their digital drawings overseas to other countries with a workforce of lower wage workers for assembly. Computer Aided Machining (CAM) insured that the most important parts of the guitar, which in my opinion, (after upgrading and assembling several electrics and, recently a Harmony acoustic) is the neck, the neck pocket and the geometry of the bridge. If the wood is dried properly and there are no twists and defects, the neck is usually very stable. Everything has been digitally machined and almost perfect. That leaves the very end of the process where people make small adjustments, paint, sand and polish, and attach components. And this is where the biggest differences are, between a "cheap" guitar and an "expensive" guitar. The overseas guitars often have very inexpensive components, which include the tuners, the bridge material and components of the bridge, the pickups and the potentiometers (Pots), the attention to detail in fretwork... and sometimes they also use plywood for the body, although all of my upgrades have been solid wood. The main tone of an electric guitar, are the pickups, the Pots and to some extent, the way the wood vibrates, although there is a lot of debate about that. Of course your amp is a huge part of the sound. Also, Squier bodies are a little thinner than the American and Mexican made Fenders. If you are willing to spend a little extra on better tuners and maybe a better bridge, full sized pots matched with pickups and the action of the neck and intonation is good, and you level and polish the frets.... your less less expensive guitar should now have all of what the more expensive guitar has. It won't have the same resale value as an America Fender made guitar, but it will sound as good. Keep in mind that the Squier pickups are smaller, because they use a stronger ceramic magnet and sound different. Not necessarily bad, but different than a "normal" Strat pickup. And the Pots are quite small, so you need to be aware of that, because the body is a little thinner. The worst case is that you might need to chisel or Dremel some wood in the cavity for the new Pots and possibly Dremel some material in the pickuard. Best wishes on your upgrade! I just finished another Squier upgrade, installing my own hand wound pickups. Here's the link and thanks for watching!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KoA43TBBGII.htmlsi=Un3ggQDFtIrVuhvF
Your repair method has a severe flaw. You are replacing the entire caster assembly rather than just the wheel. Firstly, it can be hard to find the correctly matching caster assembly. They come in a large variety. Secondly, when you buy the entire caster assembly it is more expensive than just buying a wheel. Thirdly, the entire caster assembly has the same poor quality as the original, with the same poor quality wheels: the same plastic wheels with a thin strip of rubber, on a riveted axle. If the caster assembly is undamaged (only the tire is bad), what you can do is replace just the wheel. Numerous vendors on Amazon have inline-skate-like wheels. I got four for $15 canadian, with all the hardware. The skate-like wheels are excellent. They have solid rubber/elastomer tires and smoothly rolling metal bearings. When you install them correctly, they have no free play on the axle, yet roll smoothly. All you need is a wheel kit which has the right diameter and thickness of wheel, plus that includes an axle of the right length, like 35 mm or what have you.
That sounds like a good idea. I was looking for suitcases that already had the inline skate style wheels and found them, but they were rather expensive. You should do a video on taking apart the wheel assembly and installing the skate wheel. I know I would like to see that, and I think other people would too! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Zipper shuttles (usually? maybe not always?) have a ratchet mechanism in them. When you pull up the tab, it lifts the ratchet so the shuttle can move along the zipper. When opening a zipper without a tab, you have to stick something into the tab receptacle, like a small screwdriver or toothpick, in order to activate the little lever that lifts the ratchet. This is how the fly on your jeans stays closed. When you close your fly, and then let the tab hang down flat, the ratchet claw engages and holds the shuttle in place.
That wrestling table was built by a friend, many years ago. He asked me to video it and said he was going to make plans. Unfortunately I lost touch with him 5 years ago, but kept the video up, because it's pretty cool and if people watch it, they may be able to figure out how to build something like it. I remember my friend said it was built with parts that anyone could buy from a hardware store. Thanks for watching!
I don't right now, but I could make some. What kind of tone are you looking for? Are you looking for the classic 50's or 60's chickin' picking' tone? Or a more heavier tone? Who are your favorite Tele players? That would give me an idea. Thanks for watching and asking!
@@ABIGD0NK3Y I don't have the flatware, and parts for telecaster pickups (including the lipstick housing and mount), but I will look into what's available from my suppliers, including costs and get back to you. I mainly have Strat style flatware and some humbucker parts.
I was looking for luggage with inline skate wheels, and I found a few brands. But they cost over $500! Hmmm... I wonder how much work it would take to modify? Thanks for watching!
You can make any knot, even a double knot if your rubber band is thin. Just as long as the knot is large enough for the loop to catch on. Thanks for watching!
There are some wheels that have a screws to replace the wheels. If not, some people cut them off with a hack saw and replace with a screw or bolt, which can be a lot of work, but if you look it up, they show how to do it. Here's a video that shows this method. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kV3A6nfFCrE.htmlsi=mN5fvDOWhX_WPh-B Otherwise, you might want to return the wheels and look for the complete wheel assembly. You could also contact the manufacturer of your suitcase and see if they have wheel replacements. We just did that and the suitcase manufacture sent us two sets of replacement wheels for $15 ea. Thanks for watching!
It will thicken a little more as it cools, which is good when applying to kill mold on tiles and other cleaning chores. Some people use it in a large syringe or squeeze bottle to draw patterns on dark colored clothes and wash right away after the desired effects. The thickness prevents it from running. And it's best to use it within a day or two, because it will start to thin after that. Thanks for watching! Make sure to use gloves! You don't want any household bleach like this, to come into contact your skin.
Some people like to record through the headphone port for the stereo. You have to use the splitter for that, otherwise the sound is terrible. Or, as you said, you can run direct via USB. In this video, I demonstrated both methods and compared the sound. I personally prefer using the USB direct, using the Spark as an interface, because it's easier to do and I really couldn't hear a difference. Thanks for watching!
@@StevenParente I could hear a little bit of a difference with the splitter and some of the areas I thought it sounded a little better and I’m running on an iPad so I’m having to use a camera adapter which only has one USB connection on it. I wouldn’t be able to plug the Spark right up to the camera adapter. From other videos I’ve seen people say it tries to connect automatically through Bluetooth, which obviously creates latency so I would probably have to use the splitter. Have you ever tried the iPad route or iPhone?
@@feedthewolf6930 No, I've never tried with an iPad. If you get it down, I bet some people would be very interested if you were to make a few "how to" videos about doing it!
@@StevenParente well if the splitter thing works than it should work even in GarageBand bc I’d just be running that splitter to the interface and then the interface into usb camera adapter for iPhone. I’m curious if just wasn’t sounding good without the splitter on your end because of the program you’re using. I wonder if it was on Reaper or just any other program if you would still need the splitter. All I know is I don’t wanna buy a splitter if I don’t have to use it lol have you tried using just a single 1/8 to 1/4 in a different program?
@@feedthewolf6930 You definitely need the splitter. Maybe you didn't see the link in my description, because it was down a ways, but check out this article "How do I record from my guitar amp’s headphone out?": www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-how-do-record-my-guitar-amps-headphone-out
You can add worscestershire, that would taste good. Some people add lime juice, honey, etc. The main thing is to have an equal proportion of sweet, sour and salty flavor. Thanks for watching!!!
Let it cool to about 90 degrees Fahrenheit before adding essential oils. If you're referring to the dispensers that mixes air into the soap when dispensing, that usually requires liquid soap that is more diluted than regular liquid soap, in order to efficiently mix the tiny air bubbles. If the liquid soap is too thick, it can't do this. My advice would be to follow the directions in this video, using 3 cups of water and then add maybe one, to two cups later, which will also help cool the mixture down. Mix and pour a little into your foaming dispenser and see if it foams up. If it doesn't, it probably needs to be diluted more. Take notes and do it incrementally! When you get the right amount of water, it should work every time afterwords. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this! Delsey said I was out of luck because my bag was too old, but I didn’t think it was ok to discard a perfect,y good bag! These were the exact wheels I needed and now my suitcase is good as new.
It won't run evenly now! Ridiculous! Why show you unzipping the broken lining? Why not tell us what wheels to order as that is the only hard bit of the job!
I didn't have a problem with the evenness of the wheels. Did you? The purpose of this video was to try and fix your suitcase without having to buy a new one. There are many different suitcases and configurations, so trying a "one size fits all", isn't possible. My lining wasn't broken, they didn't include a zip tab to keep the seem hidden. But it was easy to open, as you can see in the video, and much better than having to cut the lining and tape back up. You have to search to find the wheels that will fit your suitcase. However, you can also contact the suitcase manufacturer and ask if they have replacement wheels available to buy. Maybe not all of them will respond, but recently we purchased a little larger suitcases for an upcoming trip, and I wanted back-up wheels, but I couldn't find the exact match. So... I emailed the brand after looking up the company from the tag on the suitcase and they emailed back and I was able to purchase new wheels for $15 per set of left and right wheels, plus $3 dollars shipping. If you are having difficulty finding wheels, try contacting the company. Also, this is how I look for replacement wheels if I'm unable to buy from the company. This is how I found the wheels for this video. Measure your suitcase and look online for your brand model. If there isn't a brand name on your suitcase, look for something close to your size of suitcases. I mainly search on Amazon. Find your brand model, or brands that look close to yours and are about the same size, and ones that have wheels that look similar to yours. When you find your brand, or a few online suitcases that look similar, search those brands for replacement wheels. You'll find that the manufactures make wheels for several brands, because suitcase manufactures make almost the same suitcase for several companies. When you find a few set of wheels that look close, you can click on the photos for enlargements, and most will also have drawings available with measurements (especially on Amazon) and then measure your own wheels and find a set that is close to yours. Thanks for watching!
I'm having a bear of a time trying to find a piece of wood the correct width. 1/2 and 3/4 thicknesses are easy to find. But all I can find at 2" and 3" widths, which actually comes out to 1.5" or 2.5". I need 2" for a neck pocket. I've been to multiple stores now with no luck. I don't have a table saw so I don't have a way to rip it to the correct width. Any suggestions on where to locate an appropriate board?
Sometimes the folks at where you buy your lumber will cut it for you, especially the smaller companies. I have cut with a fine tooth Japanese saw, but it takes time. I finally invested into a small Ryobi 9" ban saw and that has done well for cutting jobs like this, including making jigs and altering headstocks. If you go that route, be sure to go online and learn how to set up and adjust a ban saw. It made a huge difference than using it out of the box. Thanks for watching and best wishes for your guitar builds and mods!
TY for the video. Much better than all the AI generated crap Utube is pushing on this subject. The only minor suggestion is the video could have been cut down a bit in length.
I'll paste a couple of links that may be useful for you. Thanks for watching! help.positivegrid.com/hc/en-us/articles/8141122585869-Backup-Restore-Tone-Presets and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nB9ZbYcoTG4.htmlsi=ysksJDiFBRw-0g50
Mission Beach, California - very helpful tips, thank you. I’ve referred back a few times over the years to your video. I was good for 2 years about dusting and cleaning the screen door (5 houses from the ocean on one side and the bay on the other!). I forgot for the last 6 months though, and now I’ll have to get out the elbow grease! (And rustoleum and wax).
As long as you keep up on it, the wax works very well. But that's a really good track record, living so close to the ocean. I was busy/lazy last year and didn't do a clean and wax, and had to do a little sanding and painting🙄. But it still looks good. Thanks for watching, and rewatching!🙂
Just a quick FYI: The title of this video doesn't say "Part 2 of 3" so it wasn't showing up in the related videos section on the right hand side. I had to go to your channel page to find it. Great video series though!
Thank you! I'll revise the titles on all the videos, at least in the text and description. The series grew organically, starting from the unboxing, which is now number 1 of 4. Thanks for watching! FYI - There's a forth video of finishing the kit and playing to hear how it sounds! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_tprT9hZIKw.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Mine is bought in Viet Nam with samsonite brand!! after a trip the left wheel broke! pleas tell me how to fins out replacement wheel with that brand. Thank you.
I suggest you measure your suitcase and look online for your brand model. Search for (Your brand) "Samsonite replacement wheels". Also, look for something close to your size of suitcases. I mainly search on Amazon. Find your brand model, or brands that look close to yours and are about the same size, and ones that have wheels that look similar to yours. When you find your brand, or a few online suitcases that look similar, search those brands for replacement wheels. You'll find that the manufactures make wheels for several brands, because suitcase manufactures make almost the same suitcase for several companies. When you find a few set of wheels that look close, you can click on the photos for enlargements, and most will also have drawings available with measurements (especially on Amazon) and then measure your own wheels and find a set that is close to yours. Best wishes and thanks for watching!
Works well for me. Probably has the same effect as honing, which professional chefs use to keep their knife blades straight and in line on a microscopic level.
Like the pool noodle idea. Did you notice any nasty solvent smell or allergic reactions? Im always looking for a safer option then the epoxy grain fill i do now as i dont like exposure to nasty chrmicals for my lifetime
I didn’t have a reaction, although it does have a smell until the UV light cures it. Much less than oil based products. It sounds like you might want to try out water based products. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching and asking about a follow up video. Other people and things took priority over the past couple years. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back to these guitars soon and finish them.
Not really. I’ve been doing a lot of traveling, taking classes on recording and mastering, song writing, guitar classes. Also teaching a few classes. Never a dull moment. I’ll be posting more videos and finishing these guitars up. Thanks for watching!
Hi everyone! I was following along up until the last bulletpoint black screen where another product was introduced and totally got confused at the steps of each liquid and are they all needed? Could someone post a bullet point of steps with the item/product used pleeeease😆😊
The rust converter is used if your door has rust. Many people just apply the wax on a new door, but if they have rust, using the wire brush (as shown in the video) to remove flakes and rust, and the rust converter is used to neutralize the rust and stop it from spreading. Then paint and apply the wax after the paint has completely dried. I hope that helps and thanks for watching!
@@SmartySmartsThat’s to cover over the rust converter, which looks black when the rust is neutralized. My door is white and that can of paint is the closest. Made my door look new when the retouching was finished and the wax was applied.
I can't remember, but I think around $300 for guitar parts. I was also investing in luthier tools (which was more and continue to buy luthier tools when needed), in order do all the work on my guitars. I've also built several guitars from parts and kits and sold them since this video was made, and also have done a few full fret jobs for people. This upgrade was the first step in the journey of learning how to work on guitars. If you look at the links in the description, by clicking "more", you can follow them and get an idea of the cost of various parts. Thanks for watching!
You have Gain, Master, and Output controls, all of which can increase DB's to your DAW. Increase your Gain to the edge of break-up for a bluesy sound or pull back for a clean tone. Then adjust the Master and then Output to your DAW. You also have controls in your DAW to increase the DB's. For digital recording, The optimum recording levels for a DAW, (Digital Audio Workstation) is -18 to -12 db, which is way less than an analog set up. I remember with analog, we would run hotter. But for DAW's See: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.sweetwater.com/insync/ideal-level-record-tracks-daw/%23:~:text%3DFor%2520dynamic%2520tracks%252C%2520the%2520recommended,between%2520%252D18dB%2520and%2520%252D12dB.&ved=2ahUKEwia_bTY9-uFAxXvHkQIHWl0AFwQFnoECA4QAw&usg=AOvVaw3C6ncqlrwgk8_7I42k4lgj
Also, if you are going through an interface like the Scarlet, you need to adjust up, to just below the yellow for the highest DB's when recording, or a little red/orange to avoid distortion.
Many thanks for your advice! Seems like I have to increase gain then, when using USB. Master is at ten already and the output knob doesn't seem to affect usb. As I was going for a clean tone my gain is pretty low, other volume cranked, but over all way too quiet. Increasing in my DAW later on sadly brings a lot of white noise. Aux via focusrite scarlett has no volume issues, but strangely my tone sounds completely off. So it's either more gain using USB or getting a new sound profile for headphone out. I'll experiment a bit. Thanks again 👌
@@svenneudecker You hear a big difference between the headphone port vs. the USB when using the 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord? It's important to use the splitter, or it sounds really bad. As for the USB direct, you might double check the Master Volume and the Output just before recording. I have often had the Spark automatically cut the db's when I was switching between or modifying tones. Then I would just twist the knobs slightly and the output became much louder. I don't know why, except that maybe there is a global setting within the amp that reverts to a lower output until you manually override??? I don't know and I haven't asked anyone at Positive Grid, because they're not very responsive.
