when installing the new diff, did you have to loosen the p-brake in order to get the splines of the axle shafts to line up correctly to the diff? trying to source as much info i can before doin a swap to a quaiffe diff on my 335i.
With two people. Pry bar that rest against wood against differential. One pry bar at 7 o'clock and other at 4 o'clock. Put pry bar between metal and plastic cover. Do not push against plastic. Leverage against wood. Jerk it hard. Also, first pop off axles then lower differential as you push forward clearing lower arm and differential bracket. .
F15 - 2014 x5 - I had my rear driveshaft bearing fail on me (it broken in at least 2 spots). I was worried it was going to be really difficult to remove this nut. I watched this video and some others so I decided to take it on. I bought a 24" long 1/2" drive torque wrench and a 50mm crow foot adapter. I put the car up on ramps, put the wrench on the nut just to test it. I applied slow and steady pressure, while watching the driveshaft and any movement in the wheels. All was good, I felt it break loose without too much difficulty and minimal movement. I reset the torque wrench one click, tried again, it moved again. At this point I knew it was happening. I had my son keep pressure on the crow foot (so it wouldn't fall), allowing me at least 4 clicks on the wrench. It took about 20 minutes because you don't get a lot of movement on the ramps (a lift would have made it easier). Eventually it got easier and then viola, it was off. Putting on the new driveshaft with a new nut - this was a piece of cake, you get halfway before you hit the locktite, then you just tighten it till it bottoms out, and torque it to 84ft lbs (100 Nm). While this video didn't show the process, it was helpful enough to convince me to do it in the driveway. Problem fixed - The car drives nice and smooth again, the major vibration is gone. Thanks for putting it together.
Does the drive shaft shorten back towards the center support bearing so it comes out easy or does it stay the same size and you have to fight it to take it out?
2" is slightly large, get the correct crow foot wrench, 50mm. Use a 250# torque wrench for easier removal (24" long). If you use an 18" or smaller wrench, you will have to slide something over it to make it longer as the torque is pretty tight after time.
Its probably my new favorite car. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HAU4ml37cv0.html Too bad this could be the last year of these amazing machines
Great video. Just want to know if it is really possible to remove the rear differential by just lowering it down? And not needing to remove axles first?
Question when you put the driveshaft in is there a certain way to put it back in? I out a new driveshaft in today and it’s vibrating really bad and making some weird noise. And tips on how to install it?
Sorry for taking to long! So there’s a few things! You can start by checking the center support or center bushing, the longest side has to be facing up, next you can check the flex disc ( in the output shaft) where the driveshaft connects with the trainny!
Drive shafts are balanced from the factory. Prior to removing your old drive shaft, a mechanic would mark the drive shaft, ujoint, and diff with a paint marker.
@@stevesteve3940 is not necessary to mark it with the rear diff, only the driveshaft and flex disc with the transmission output shaft flange in this case! Just the front part! The rear is gotta be torqued!
