Welcome to Diode Press! I'm created videos focused around my passion for art, printmaking, electronics and design. I'm interested in science and technology, and I try to bring this into my art as often as possible. I cover a wide range of mediums, but mezzotint, woodcuts, and traditional drawing are some of my favorites.
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I can't make out the word at around 8:00 - it sounds like "Tech Etch" or "Tekash", but the closed captioning says only "Tash". I did check the Tools & Materials page, but the brayer link is a Speedball brayer. What is the word or brand name of that "Tech Etch" brayer? Thanks!
Nice work! I've been wanting to do a single layer black & white print using this method for a while but didn't know how to go about prepping the files. What size of halftone dot do you find works the best? Do you just convert your channels to bitmaps or do you have a better method? Any advice would be much appreciated, cheers!
Good informative video. I like the torn edges look but at the same time I like the sheets to be exact in size for registration purposes (I make reduction prints). Don’t know if there is a solution for that dilemma?
@@DiodePress 55 is nice. I’ve got a 10W diode and so far I’ve landed on 2500mm speed at 100% power with 1 pass. I don’t have great ventilation so I am trying to keep my burn time low. What’s weird is figuring out the frequency when my laser/line ends up at around .2mm in width…figuring out the equation of my image size/dpi/freq/laser width has been challenging.
It is beautiful work. I have just started my adventure with laser and wood print. I have one big concern. How you clean wood after printing? Different way for oil base and different for water soluble?
Very cool process, some of the first halftones were also printed in letterpress. It was crisp and could be easily combined with text blocks. Intaglio (héliogravure) halftones were used for higher quality quality/volume for a long time. When planographic processes like offset lithography took off, they replaced almost everything until digital. Both typography and halftone images were now photographic process and the Linotype machines for composing text were scrapped. But people complained because optical typography systems were not as good. So now you’re starting the cycle again with your digital letterpress four-colour halftones!
Pretty sure a 15th century wood carver/print maker/crafter is gonna be like, "You can focus light and carve things? And you've cured dying by the ripe old age of 28?". Engrave away good sir
Great video even 6 years later! Do you have advice for using ternes-burton pins with the registration jig that you made? I will be hand-printing with a baren and want to do some multi-block or reductions. Thank you for making this playlist series.
Hi! I would check out the latest video I posted (CMYK), I used a registration jig that I sell to align my block and then ternes pins for my paper. Good luck!
Hey Graham, Just watched the whole series...I've done a total of two lino prints so far, even added watercolour to one of them. Your series shows a massive amount of information, so thanks very much. Your enthusiasm comes across in spades, and I've learnt so much.
This is a very interesting technique! I can't wait to try it. I imagine waterbased printing inks won't look as good or adhere properly but I will do a test. Has anyone tried waterbased printing inks with success on normal plaster?
Every material requires an easy small test etching to figure that out, but I typically do just enough that when I print it, the background does not print. In this case, it’s probably 1/32nd-1/16th of an inch. Power and speed go hand in hand to determine this depth as well.
Thanks for checking out the video! For this project it’s just 1/2” MDF, which I got from Lowe’s. It’s not the most fun to carve and makes your tools dull quickly. I typically use Shina Plywood which cuts very smoothly and holds good detail, and I get it from iMcclains.com
For sure! Maybe this will lead to a new thing altogether. I’ve been a bit apprehensive to start another fabric project. Thanks for checking out the project!
Bob Ross was right, there are only happy little accidents. Do something awesome with the faded part. Or at worst, buy a couple boxes of Rit and call it good. Really old fluorescent bulbs can emit more UV than you think. Betcha that's what happened.
Aw bummer, I sold the few that turned out how I intended and when I moved studios I donated the remaining faded ones. It was a rough time, and didn’t have the creativity at the time to do anything with them! I’m going to be doing a new run of them in the future if you’re interested feel free to sign up for my email list to be notified ✌️
@@DiodePress It most probably is made from natural sources (meaning bio not synthetic), but it is still toxic. One of the best thinners for painting in old times was (and still is) made from lavender, still toxic :). Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to accuse you of anything, I'm just trying to warn you about it
hello, i'm not able to configure in Klipper, could you help me i have a ramps 1.4 and the mini-kossel but when i follow other tuto on youtube it work. But not the Axis its like decals the Z is more down and the nozzle go outside the print zone
