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Hello Sir, Do you still have this car with this tune? I just bought a 328d myself and am looking to get it tuned potentially in the Golden State. Wanted to see how you navigate the emissions testing in the state now that tunes are detected
Congrats on the new ride! I still have the car as my daily and it's still going strong and smoothly. For your other question, you won't need to worry about software checking finding anything. The dealer software (ISTA) doesn't detect anything and that's the most thorough check routine for BMWs.
Looking at a similar solution for my '22 Supra as the toe keeps slipping it's settings. Looking at the SPL and Verk options... but I notice at 12:15, the arm /bearing faces upward. Would dirt, debris and water present an issue to the bearing as it looks like it may just collect there? No biggie if a track car, but for a daily? And of course, NVH? noticeable?
I don't recommend exposed spherical bearings for daily driver cars. You can usually buy boots for the bearings from the actual manufacturers of the spherical bearing parts and use those to protect them. Arms like these don't make any salient NVH, but may increase the white noise/road noise floor a bit. It's not very noticeable.
I have a 435i and my diff is making a howling noise when accelerating so now i am looking at wavetrac! This doesmt make noise in the inside of the car does it?
Loosen the bolt holding the arm to the subframe, then use a wrench to turn the eccentric nut on the spherical bearing to get your desired caster. Then tighten the subframe bolt back to spec.
BMW explicitly says in their procedures not to use grease for these calipers. Plus under track driving grease just dries up/gets burned up anyways and leaves a mess.
@@FaRKle0079 i was just curious from an engineering standpoint of why not using grease. I guess it’s just for the track driving as you said. Interesting
@@whizkid235 Grease can also gum things up if there's not enough clearance built in. The stock pads have a shim around them, and those surfaces on the sides that bracket the pad have a smoother finish, so grease might constrain movement instead of lubricating and allowing the pad to move like it usually does in other designs.
Help Needed i have a 2021 m340i xdrive a few days ago i got Silvers Coilovers installed and now i have a check engine light with Chassis Stabilization, Cross Traffic Warning and Regenerative Braking Reduced issues.
M340i has electronically controlled dampers that are now missing from your car, which is why you have the CEL. You need to either use terminators that trick the car into still seeing EDC dampers, or code the car so it doesn't expect to see EDC dampers anymore.
@@FaRKle0079 First of all thank you for taking the time to respond but i am a little confuse are you saying EDC is standard on m340i? Cause i did check the OEM suspension for any electrical connections and there is none so how does it work without any electrical connections?
@@Lonestreets hrm I thought USA M340i came with it by default. Maybe I mis-remembered. There are usually ride height sensors connected to some of the arms, make sure those are connected and in the correct orientation. In general it seems like something might not have been reconnected.
Nice video, I have a question about the 18mm pass-through with 6mm counterhold. I saw my mechanic installed my new strut and coil spring without the 6mm counterhold. He just use a socket wrench to tie up the strut and mount. Does that cause strut and mount tie-up not properly? Thank you for your answer.
Well-done!-You were very patient with a driver that seemed unwilling to check his mirrors to let faster traffic by. Safety first, of course. Getting a baseline with the Ohlins (after Flat Ride adjustment) before your FCM Elite Stage 3 ;)
@@SuspensionTruth Thanks Shaikh! I'm super excited for your setup. The Ohlins were massively better with flat ride and without really pushing and on 10 day old R-S4 tires I was 3sec off my best time. I just got some scales to take the corner weights for you. Will measure in the next week!
Damn bro you're Soo smart and I loved how much you went into detail. Very informative video. Something no you tuber or even the forums have ever talked about. Thank you soo much for this video. I really do appreciate. I always wondered what the difference between the Turner and SPL was but you explained it. Strength and design. Please don't stop making videos like These. Very intellectual and helpful
Got the whole way to removing the E16 subframe bolts and they will not budge. The E16 socket rounded them. Moved onto a Bolt remover which broke without budging the bolt. Looks like I’m throwing in the towel.
Oh man! I stripped a subframe bolt etorx head once, and ended up using my dremel to cut the flange off of the bolt. With the flange removed there's no clamp load on the bolt anymore and I was able to unscrew the rest of it with a pair of vise grips. Has your subframe been removed before? If so I wonder if the previous place put loctite on the bolts. I've seen that before too... Best to replace those bolts if there's any sign of rounding on the etorx.
I could try cutting the flanges off on the middle bolts but the front ones are stuck up in a that tube. I don’t believe it would have been apart before. Bought with 30,000 miles just off of a lease. I’ve got creaking a noise and this was the last thing I could think of replacing. Replaced upper and lower control arms/thrust arms, Inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, struts and strut mounts, that weird plastic piece inside of the steering rack. Guess I’m living with it now.
Very informative and awesome video as usual! Is it ok if I reuse the rear subframe bolts and how do I guarantee that the subframe will go back nice and square as I raise it back up? Thanks again!
The unibody has indexing nubs that align the subframe when they're mated together, so no real issue realigning them. I've reused the subframe bolts, but you kind of have to watch that the heads of them aren't rounding off.
It should. Sometimes the ball joints have enough resistance that you can just use an impact/normal deep socket and zip the nut off/on too without having to counter hold.
I used one of these as a boot Drive the system works just fine but has motherboard issues randomly when booting from it sometimes if it doesn't get enough power it will throw memory errors
Hey when you got it repainted which is what I’m about to do does the body shop remove the double sided tape that comes with the piece or do they work around it?
Some details 1:10 The shim is to add preload to the assembly. 2:31 We added more lateral support and reduced axial force. That why they are 37mm now. 4:22 To see the clearance you need to have the lower polydisc inserted. 4:47 They are changed 2022 with angular correction. 6:06 The 3-bolt works aswell as long as you use torque for M8. Some may have used torque for 3xM10 which is not correct for M8. 6:48 The two flush is for clearance with high camber settings. The tall once are for those who want to use OEM bolts on those positions. 7:34 This is changed to give 3mm more adjustment range. 8:23 The resistance is a feature to lock the studs. They are locking helicoils. Red=locking helicoils. Green=normal helicoils.
Guys there is a good reason to get the nicer spring compressor.. trust me. I’m in the process of wrestling with the cheap one and its burning hours and a total pain
Hey Farkle, I have a 2018 F32 440i xDrive with KW DDC coilovers. I am trying to determine what ARB to use as the car is daily driver and I am thinking H&R on the softest setting to remove any understeer and avoided too much loss in suspension independence...
Hey Farkle, I have a 2018 F32 440i xDrive with KW DDC coilovers. I am trying to determine what ARB to use as the car is daily driver and I am thinking H&R on the softest setting to remove any understeer and avoided too much loss in suspension independence...
Before adding a bar check your spring rates and see if they have pitch or flat ride. If it's pitch, you'll need a rear sway bar in conjunction with the front or you'll have really bad understeer.
So this basically allow you to ajust the height of your rear lowering spring just like a coilover? Something that bothers me is that for some reason on F series Xdrive H&R lowering springs only come in sport and not super sport (lower version) so what happens if I do the same thing that you did but ajust it at the lowest possible. Will my axel or my car blow up?
Yup, it allows you to adjust height just like any of the coilover kits you might buy. The thing you'll want to watch for when lowering your rear is having enough free damper travel. The bump stop on the damper should prevent it from bottoming out and damaging it, but you'll have a harsh ride if riding the bump stops.
ok cool thank! Can you also check or change your links, they didn’t worked and I’m very interested in finding them. And last question, if I already have some H&R lowering sport spring on bmw F30 Xdrive can I keep thoses and simply add Adjustable Perch on top?
Thanks for this. I've wanted a set of plates for my car for a while now, but it's a street car so I'm always concerned with NVH. I have a slight amount of tire rub in the front from being so low, and I'm about -1.7° in the front, so these might just be my solution to dial in just a tiny bit more camber so I don't rub. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the NVH.
The Track Plates sound like a bucket of bolts rattling around in your engine bay. I have the latest ones and am rebuilding them with the Street centre pieces as I can't stand the track plates on the road. Literally drove the car for 1 minute with them and absolutely hated them.
Even with these you'll get a bit more road noise, but it's the general "noise floor" and background/white noise instead of very salient tones that stand out and grab your attention. I'm happy with them in my daily driver.
@@idontwantafrickinhandle totally agree with you, while the street versions are my go-to recommendation, the spherical bearing/track versions I absolutely don't recommend. There are better alternatives out there (Vorshlag) if going spherical bearing.
@@FaRKle0079 So these are what you are always running now? I thought the Ground Control options were your favorite. I'm looking for an option for autocross that won't be terrible on the road.
@@JakeisLive I've been running Millway Street plates on my daily driver F31 328d for about 4yrs now. My M2 is running Vorshlag camber plates. I can't in good conscience recommend Ground Control camber plates due to how fast their spherical bearings wear, some questionable QC, and grumpy after sales support.
Some of the first gen parts look like toys. More like stuff I would build into my light MR2 vs then in a heavy M car :P I had parts for my KWv3 on my MR2 handbuilt (like the metal cylinder for the strut) and even these look more beefy than the 1st gen parts there. Thanks for the comparison. Great update from Millway.
Hello, I'm planning to order an ATB from Diffsonline. I saw they send the pumpkin with the back cover separately (I assume with all bolts). Just wondering, do I need to purchase sealant to assemble it myself? Did you just send all parts to Vtmotorworks to let them handle everything? Thank you!
@@zqy6722 since I sent them a complete donor pumpkin they included the bolts it came with when sent back. You'll want to have some rtv/gasket maker for reassembly of the cover. I just had VT Motorworks do all that since they were handling the install anyways.
How do I remove the battery once the bracket is removed? I'm pulling up and the whole car is going with it. Is it screwed to the floor or something? Do I have to go underneath the car to unscrew the battery from the floor??
@@AutisticMorty there's another clamp holding the base of the battery down that's difficult to see. You'll need to unscrew its bolt, and then you can take the battery out. Part #2 on this diagram www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=8J13-USA-09-2016-F31N-BMW-328dX&diagId=61_2816
Why was the old upper filter bent at the bottom? Seems like it wasn't a very efficient system if it was allowing air to bypass the filter pleats. Old one weren't very dirty.
