Danfoss/Secop have 48volt version of this compressor availalbe for a long time but nobody makes a consumer product for marine, rv or off-grid that supports 48v. Does anyone know why that is?
I found one real symptom of undercharged system is that the compressor overheats, seriously. I think it's because in a properly charged system there's still a little bit of heat the refrigerant has yet to absorb, and it cools the compressor going in, however without enough refrigerant, the refrigerant isn't absorbing anything, and therefore the compressor will get HOT to the touch after it runs for a few minutes, until the thermal protection kicks in and shuts the compressor off (usually it's a reed switch stuck to the compressor that opens the circuit when it gets too hot). If your compressor is shutting down prematurely for no reason, this is why.
@BarryDent-d4t - It sounds like you are referring to the speed of the compressor. If you have a Merlin II Smart Speed Control there are TWO different LED lights that flash. The GREEN indicates the speed of compressor (anywhere from 1 - 6 flashes). The RED is the diagnostic light (fault codes are 1 -5 ). I hope this helps.
Thanks. The green light is for the compressor speed. What does the six flashes of that green light mean? Fridge still is not cooling. The red light does not flash.
Ok so how do you fix the low voltage issue! My compressor will only run when I have the charge inverter on otherwise the red low voltage indicator flashes and compressor will not run. Do I need more amp hour batteries to fix this or maybe some solar panels. Soon as I turn off the charge inverter the fridge compressor will not run
I have an Isotherm ASU/SP Fridge/ freezer. It appears that the Red Controller SEGoooo8DA attached to the 01N0210 has failed. If I jumper the Thermistor points the Compressor runs . However no temp. control. Do you have any units that will plug into my exciting 01N0210. to allow me to control temp and probably Comp Speed. Temp sensor for ease of installation would prefer resistor style. Easier to pull through a soft wire.
Yes, we do. We have mechanical t/stats and digital. We also have manual speed boards and "Smart Speed Controller" - Merlin II. You can use any combo of these on the 101N0210 module.
I’m at a loss as to why my unit will not cool ..compressor and fan runs ..no error codes ..should I jump the C and T terminals to bypass the thermostat controller?
If your compressor is a Danfoss BD35/50 12v compressor; it is meant to run on 12/24v. This same compressor, with an AC/DC controller will also accept 110v and convert to 12v. These AC/DC controllers can accept 230/110v and 12/24v incoming power. BUT If your compressor is NOT a Danfoss BD35/50 compressor then I can't answer your questions without knowing what type of compressor you have.
Wow, what a great Video. First a thumbs up. Hope this Video will be seen by millions in the future! In my fridge, I can not access the evaporator inside. (Waeco with the kind of Compressor you use here). I wonder if the refrigerant level is low, seems to cool OK, but is working long. I can only access the return tube (low side) to the compressor, which is not at all iced up, indicating either good or low charge if I did understand you correct. The question is, can the temperature of the return tube (maybe in relation to environment or fridge temperature) give an indication if refrigerant is correct or low? I also wonder what a "professional homeowner" (term stolen from Wranglerstar) must build to be able to evacuate a refrigerant system into a tank and use it for filling it up again, after vacuum, and maybe a nitrogen flush, or can the "professional homeowner" flush by other means? Maybe you/anybody can point me in the right direction?
Please kindly explain or share a link for different dc compressor capacity, like how many litres freezer for bd25, bd35, bd50, BD250GH, BD350GH and so on. Appreciate your feedback.
@KMT15 Thanks for your question. Switching the controller (display) will require a new electrical box made for the new controller (display) for communication.
Thanks. I have wrestling with the correct amount of charge for two days that has got to be the simplest and best explanation I have heard No pressures no weights. Either you have frost or not.
So with an inverter and an 100ah lithium battery how long can this unit run? As running current is 6amps but per this when the unit compressor starts it pulls 76amps.
A very poorly thought out unit. No section of suction line available to attach a thermal couple for super heat. Unit has to be removed from boat for service and charged on the bench. The reason is, the boat has to be perfectly still in the slip to use a scale and that's never going to happen.The gauges are useless since you can't charge 410a by pressures like you can R22. Components are jammed together under the shroud. I literally had to destroy a unit to get to the HP switch. I tell customers to buy one if you like but i will not service them. Just too many headaches to get involved in it.
Hi, great video! I am wondering if our unit came with a remote or not... or how we can get one. We just bought a 2019 Fountaine Pajot Helia with a Cruiseair Vimar thermosts much like the solver one in your video, though not an exact replica. We have yet to find a remote control in the boat though. If we have to buy one, what do you suggest we buy that will be compatible? Right now we have Wifi while at a marina, but we won't always have it, so I think a remote control would work better for us... one we can set on a timer to turn on in the mornings to warm up our salon before we wake up. Also, maybe you can answer this as well... once the temp reaches the number we set it for, the heat stops, but there is a fan that keeps constantly running... it blows cold air, which defeats the purpose of having the heat on. Our thermostat buttons are: (starting from left to right) Power, Mode, Temp (down arrow and up arrow) and Fan. Thanks much ~. Claudine
Useful for background, thanks. My chum's BD50 has a leak in one of the Quik Connect tubes, the one with the filter, so we need to replace that. How are these tubes attached to the compressor proper? Is it welded, soldered or mechanical? Thanks for any help you can provide.
@@coastalclimatecontrol Thanks, the 500 btu figure is what I was missing. So a small AC would require 8-12 keel coolers (or one 8-12x larger). Which is expensive even if it would work. While you're here, what are the dimensions of the fridge keel cooler? I looked but didn't see them on the website.
I've had one of the 14,000 in my trawler for 3 years now . I love it. Should I have a sacrificial zink in the water intake line ? Around the strainer ? Should I have any worries about the salt water rotting out the unit from any sort of electrolysis ? Thank you.
You shouldn't zincs on your water intake and strainer. It's not the salt water "rotting" your unit, it's the stray currents that may or may not be there.
@@CoastalClimate Thank you. I've had no problems in 3 years. Doing routine maintenance. Just cleaned coils and drip pan . It's been a great unit so far. It heats, it cools and dehumidifies like a champ. Thanks again.
Would one of these make a good option for a small camper? A lot of people are installing mini splits on campers and cargo trailers these days. But they're enormous, and use two components with the compressor and wall unit
