RoadBoogala Builds is a small 2 bay shop that does small custom builds and repairs (karts/buggies/motorcycle). There's no special tools or a team of workers to get the job done. There are no set hours of business and working hours, this is strictly a hobby done in spare time after working a full time job. Trying to keep new and old toys alive, fun and cool, usually done on a tight budget. No special skills or talents just the average joe having fun, so sit back enjoy hopefully you might learn a few tricks to help you out, or you can tell me what I'm doing wrong and help me out. Thanks for stopping by
Castor and camber is in the spindle. The an arms should be level. And have appropriately 3 to 4 degrees negative caster with a small amount of positive camber maybe 1/2 degree or so have fun kids building your dreams
Love the project and attention to detail. Really dislike the music that's 25% louder than the spoken words. Volume down, volume up, down, up, down. It's as bad a commercials on TV, sorry...
@@roadboogalabuilds5318 it's easy to be critical, much harder to do! I'm totally cool with the music, just try to volume level across all the tracks and it'll be a huge improvement. 👍🏻
I had this same exact situation on the back of my Grand Prix. It was so bad I was thinking of selling the car. Fixed it. Thanks man!!! Got it aligned and she runs perfectly. Almost like a new car.
only issue I have with these generators is they kick out due to how system is grounded ,which is what yours has done in video ,, red light on . once you fix the ground on them they will run almost anything you throw at them
Machine works great, I don’t use it a great deal but do have lots of plans for it. I have an old shop compressor that makes lots of air so I never worried about it, I can’t even think what the CFM is off hand?? It way more than what’s required to run this machine. The JD’s machine doesn’t require huge air, I couldn’t honestly answer what the minimum CFM would be?
My G6 had a broken spring & every little change in the road made the back of the car leap off of the ground. It was pretty scary. I found 5 wrecked G6 s in a pull a part salvage yard & all but one of those cars springs were also broken. It must be a Pontiac defect.. just like being notoriously known for having bad ground wires that don't look bad! There is a great video out there showing those bad grounds being on the drivers side motor.. which codes TCM
Just got mine yesterday. My model is LTP5500DCNC. Hopefully, the CNC designation indicates the updating of the original D to a more CNC specific configuration.
I did not, however some people do, it’s prob not a bad idea to add a regulator. The only issues I have had is that when it’s hot out and the tractor is sitting the fuel tank does pressurized from the heat and pushes fuel through the electric pump and floods the carburetor. I just added a petcock
Hello, again. I'm at the point I can't delay the wiring any longer as I have done all the mechanical elements including the Z axis feature. My question today is do you think I can put the Z driver in the ammo box without crowding things too much and creating too much heat ? I was a little unsure of how much wire to use on each run between the drivers , power supply, and the other small elements in the box but it appears all I need would be just enough to place the items neatly on the board. Thanks , as always, for your insight Demon
@roadboogalabuilds5318 Yeah. I didn't really expect you to know for sure. Guess I'm just delaying the wiring process do to my inexperience. Thanks for responding again. Have a great day.
Looks like you ran out of loader poop, if it had been a stability issue (lift the rear end up) extended that hoe out would have helped. I had a similar tractor hoe setup, and as a big crane operator, I enjoyed having having what amounts to a movable counterweight!
That used too power my grandfather’s old sawmill on lake of the woods, I’m thinking it has not ran since the 70’s/80’s? I hope to try and getting running this summer, really hard to find info on it
I followed the same build procedure as JD’s garage, the only difference is I used 11 slats instead of 8 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vsgdE61KUXI.htmlsi=eWILZo6duVR4f2Ic
I built the JD's Garage table myself and it looks like maybe you had the same problem I had. That would be that the torch starts to move a little too quickly after the "Torch Off" command is sent. This leaves a partial slice when it moves to the next position. So I "hacked" the post-processor and added a time delay right after the M5 (Torch Off) command. Now all the little slices are gone. I just basically made the "leave" delay equal to the Pierce time. I was doing this "by hand" when it first started but later figured out how to change the Post-Processor to do it for me. Less time and less mistakes. Next I want to have a Laser option . . . Happy Cutting!
Hello, again. I just wanted to ask you if you are happy with the plastic ammo box for the electronics. I have the same box you have and I am at the stage of starting on that part of the project . Do you have any issues with heat ? Should I add a fan or is the method you show in the video working fine. Thanks for all your help.
It’s been working fine for me, however I have never ran my table for long periods at a time. I also figured I would add a fan if I had heat problems, so far so good 👍🏻
I really didn’t keep track of what I spent, I built it over a long period of time and had some of the parts long before I started. Here’s a link of a cost break down of this machine ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YohCCpud8aM.htmlsi=aw58pEAeEWQLgEVN
Idea on making those washers a bit easier to install. On the stl files, add a extended bit. Instead of being shaped like an O, it would be shaped like O- so you have a little piece to keep ahold of while installing them. Then trim the piece off after install
I've noticed that there is an issue between USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 with serial comms. Most outputs on laptops these days are USB 3.0 due to their speeds but the pin outs are just a liiitle off. Not sure why it doesn't work unless it's a serial USB cable issue, but I'm assuming you're using the same cable that came with the arduino. Glad you were able to work through it. This is giving me inspiration to try my had it.
@roadboogalabuilds5318 maybe... but honestly, it's a pretty stupid standard that some manufacturers choose to use and others to simply ignore. Then there is serial USB cables... I won't get into those... basically if the end of the cable is black, 98% of the time it's usb 2.0 and if it doesn't work plugging it into a port that's blue or red, find a port that's black. USB3.0 is supposed to be backward compatible, but I've fixed more issues this way than not. I mean USB stands for Universal Serial Bus, but some where it's been lost in translation. BTW, the business end of the USB (the small side) is referred to as the "B" side. And this can very on size. What most people call an "Android" charging cable is really a USB2.0 B-micro end. And there is a slightly different pinout OTG (the data type for android) and serial. The regular USB2.0 B side, what most people refer to as a printer cable, (much bigger than micro or mini) almost square, doesn't have this limitation because it's only serial. Sorry, had to nerd out a sec. Within recent memory, I had this problem connecting the brain of my daughter's robot to my laptop. My laptop only had USB3.0 and USBc ports. Plugging in a docking station that had a 2.0 fixed it.
@roadboogalabuilds5318 yeah, sorry about that... I could fill an entire 1hr video on different cables, types, and uses, but it's already been done a million times by far more knowledgeable than I. But thanks for the reply! I really enjoyed this series.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wm-cVtidRrU.htmlsi=rMuX2G_cMtOMH4CS the compressor I’m using is a larger shop compressor I have had for years, you could use a much smaller one to operate this table
Great videos! It might seem like a silly question but what was the stuff you sprayed before etching on the metal in the first minute of the video? Just paint or something else?
You did a very nice job on this build. I’m about 90% complete with mine. Your shielding wire did you connect it to the motors or did you just leave it inside the wire? Thanks have a nice day.
Thx, I left my shielding wire loose inside it is not connected to the motors, at the time I was unaware to do so. So for it works great so unless I have problems I will most Likely leave it how it is.
Hello, again. I hope im not being too annoying. I am going to use the same plastic ammo box you did. Can you tell me what the fittings and glands you used on it ? Also, about how much of the 4 conductor shielded cable did you end up using ? Thanks.
No prob not annoying I bought wire in bulk lots left over, here is some Amazon links of what I used UHPPOTE 22 AWG Gauge 4 Conductor... www.amazon.ca/dp/B08BZBK5HN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Electrical Wire CBAZY™ Hook up... www.amazon.ca/dp/B0791BNDY2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share DGZZI 5Pairs GX16 4Pin Male... www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQF2RDL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thank you for sharing! Could I ask where you bought all your bolts from? When I priced all the bolts and nuts as per JD, came out pricey in Canada/Toronto.
Thx, JD's Garage just did an update video on buying material for this build, If you haven't I suggest checking it out. Like you I'm also in Canada, the bulk of my bolts came from Peavey Mart (they sell them in bulk by weight) smaller specialty bolts came from Home Depot, being in Canada you will most likely find the specialty bolts with a Robertson style head vs a Allen or Philips head which JD's used
There are several people who have this exact generator hookup to their house, food trucks. It works for them. How can this be? It doesn’t seem logical Briggs would put out a production generator that will not work . Mine works fine.
Hey dude. I'm in the process of building this table. I've watched your series on it a number of times ( I'm a bit dense and it takes a few exposures to new ides for Me to absorb it ) . I have , also, lengthened the legs, am going to casters on as well. Today I assembled the bearing blocks . The first one was a bit*h but the second was much easier ( washers ). ANYWAY, now that you have been operating it for a while, do you have any advice as to pitfalls I might encounter ? BTW I bought the same ammo box from Harbor freight for the electronics ( really not looking forward to that ) And REALLY not looking forward to the flashing etc to get it to work as I don't have a computer guru buddy to help. I'll shut up now, Thanks Demon
Thx, the Machine works great the only issues I have had is operator error, still very new to me. I did have one gears come loose on one of the stepper motors causing some very irregular cuts. Once I realize the problem and tighten it back up everything was fine.
I built a front end loader for my Deere 420 this spring and I cut out a bunch of stuff by hand. Sadly it looks like a little kid did it. During the project I was wishing I had something this size just for brackets and small stuff like what you did here. The FEL worked great for the projects, and I keep finding stuff needing it. Now this fall we got a couple rain storms and it appears I need to dig up the foundation on one side of my house to find and fix a leak. Well now this spring I'm going to build a mini backhoe. Thinking about my experience with the FEL, I started trying to figure out what I could do. JD's garage popped up in my research and now after watching your build..... Next paycheck the plans and 3d Printed parts will be ordered. By super early spring I'll have the table built just in time to build the Mini-Hoe! If I'm smart, I'll figure out how to use my Go-pro and other camera to actually video both builds. LOL Great job with this!
Sweet. Wish I had built MY JD's plasma cutter BEFORE I ordered my such parts from send cut send....butbetter late than never.. I'm sure I'll build more of these
