This video started a whole spiral for me and my wide glide, love this idea. Ended up researching longer forks, talking with some fork guys and long story short went full on, got my bike chopped and stretched as well as longer forks. No more square backbone.
I turn 62 next month and buying a new Harley for my 62 birthday. I have not ridden in 15 years and my last bike was a 825 Street Glide with a sluggish 88 cubic inch engine. When I saw this new Low Rider ST I new immediately this is the bike I am getting. 100lbs lighter than a Street Glide with a 117 engine seems like a dream ride. The only modification I will initially make is change the pipes and either do a stage 1 or 2. You seem very knowledgeable so need to ask you a question. I do NOT like to ride 100 MPH but I LOVE going from 0 to 60 as quickly as possible. So not sure what type of upgrade I need to do. Not sure if a stage 1 will suffice or I should go with a stage 2. Also how do you decide what cam to go with when doing these upgrades?. I do not want want to throw money away if a stage one will give me that quick 0 to 60 torque. But because this will be my last bike I have no hesitation doing whatever will give me the most smiles per hour. I also need to mention I do not want to void my warranty so whatever cam I use or if I do a stage 1 or 2, going to keep this in warranty. Changing subject if you want a good laugh. You mentioned about a wasp going in your helmet. Many years ago I was riding upstate on highway in NY with my $10 plastic brain bucket and a bee or some scary bug went up my nose while riding and I was NOT able to immediately pull over. Having a nasty bug crawling inside your nose when riding had to be my very worst experience of my riding life. I am lucky I kept the bike on two wheels because I was freaking out. Thought you might appreciate that story. And thanks for great video. You have a new subscriber. Safe travels my friend🙏
Responding from my other account. Sounds like you have a good plan! You may not need a cam at all, I'd start with an exhaust and tune performed at your harley dealership before adding a cam. You may decide that's all you need. These bikes definitely dont sound good from the factory so that's where I would start. Get it broke in and after 500 miles let her rip and see how you like it. I'd also invest in some risers. If you want to keep your warranty you should have harley do the engine work if you decide to have it done. I wasn't worried too much about the warranty but if that's important to you you'll have to get HD to do the work. My dad is 62 as well and he rides this bike a lot and really enjoys it. Cheers!
Thanks for quick reply my friend. An hearing your 62 year old dad is riding the same bike just confirms I am making the right choice. The only bummer was I love listening to music but never liked wearing earbuds when riding as I like to hear what's going on around me. That all changed today when I read about a slip on fairing that Harley makes specifically for the Low Rider ST that is 250 watts of power and has two speakers and the amplifier built onto the fairing for something liker $1000. I am sure you know about this but for longer cruises music is a blessing at least for me. I wish you and your cool ass dad safe travels and many miles of new enjoyable experiences!!! 👍 Plus the money I will save by just going with new pipes and just a tuneup as you suggested of the stage 2 with new cam will covers a good portion of the cost for this speaker system. Great advice. Thanks again ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y0E50Wvx4Go.html
I just left my store and the same thing just happened to my bike, but I don’t have risers. Everything is stock and literally I have no power. I don’t know what the hell to do
Found you video. I’m actually having a similar issue. Getting that check engine light and the throttle lag. However mine is more like it’s trying to figure out how much power it wants to give when I twist the throttle. Sometimes I can blip other times I really have to roll back. It’s only been one day I’ve been searching to see if other ppl have had this issue. I’m not seeing any error in the install so that was going to be my next choice to see if it would change if I had removed the extension. I’d really like to keep my 10” risers and I see others with them so I know there is an extension somewhere that has to work 😂
I have this pipe on my fully built stage 4 sportster 1275. Taking it to the dyno in a few days. But even with the break in tune it rips im hoping for 110hp. Its a great exhaust though. The db reducer makes the engine run so smooth.
I bet the wires are made of a different composition/shielding or the connectors same issue, alterimg resistance. Maybe turn off with stock connection disconnect battery, deenergize system. Then reconnect extension , reset tune?
LOVE the bike brother!!! I have a wide glide myself. IT has the stage 4 kit on it... Its fun! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yB666Ugvsdg.html&ab_channel=MeYes
Just like the bike you’re paying for the name w/ thrashin, etc. I’ll be picking mine up Saturday, I’ve only made real plans to upgrade the lights. Apparently you’ve got to put Angry Chicken parts on to remain under warranty, which I believe aftermarket tunerband sawicki exhaust sounds awesome.
I know this video is old. But why not just get the S and put your own stuff on it. the gage on the S is better and you spend $2K less. ST is accessorized...with stuff you probably won't keep. Buy the S.
Because the gauge you’re talking about is like $200. But to put the fairing and bags on an S would cost much more than 2k and still not be finished as nicely. What you’re saying is actually the opposite of what’s true. Other than that the S is exactly the same and you’re still going to take the same stuff off.
@@brianbutler307 I hear ya. What I'm saying is I don't like the ST bags. If you actually use them, they're gonna get messed up. They're rigid and painted. I can't imagine they'd look good for long after a toss or two on a hotel bed. They're clumsy. I'd rather equip my bike with something more useful.
Sweet bike man, I just got a low mileage FXDXC and I want to do a conversion on it to a raked wideglide, that's how I found your video, I like what you did, nice job!
I have know idea if codes change over the years but I have a 2022 Lowrider S. I was getting a very momentary change in rpm and then a code P0651. This represents an abnormal in the 5V reference voltage. My understanding is various modules check function against this 5V and if the voltage is off it throws off other sensors. After a few attempts at clearing the code and having it come back after a short ride, with the twitch in rpm, I took it back to the dealer. They started investigating and found the "twist grip sensor plug was not fully seated". The plug was reseated and after riding the bike for 50 miles no codes thrown. I don't know what the tolerance are for this reference voltage but I'd be curious what the differences are in the various wirrs, including the connectors, and if that may be part of the issue you're having.
If able to do this all over again, would you go +2 more inches if you could? How does the handling change as you go up, and did you need to modify the kickstand?
No, I saw one that was +6 and it didn’t look good. At that length the wheel needs to be in front of the fork like the old style choppers or it begins to look silly. I did add a +1 kickstand.
@@brianbutler307 Thanks for the input. I'm doing this to my wide glide in a few weeks, mainly epic long distance and commuter riding I think it will work well.
It does make the low fuel light come on a little sooner but you still get the same amount of miles per tank. Look up videos from DK Customs explaining it well.
Love the seat. I’m building the Fastback seat from C&C Seats with the Bomber Accent Band like yours. Adding the removable Backrest though, Whiplash doesn’t offer that option though. Doing Gel insert too. Thanks for the inspiration.
