Former Contributor for Big Squid RC Owner/editor for www.scaleandtrail.com and www.driftitch.com Video Producer for Vanquish Products.
I entered the hobby in the golden age of RC when race cars and bashers were the same thing. I have over 30 years of experience and have participated in almost every segment of RC there is. For the last 8 years I have immersed myself in the media side of RC in the efforts of converting my passion for RC into my job. From video editing and photography to writing about drift cars and scalers, RC continues to be my passion and probably will be for the foreseeable future.
For business opportunities, collaboration, or sponsorship please contact me via my FaceBook page at: @EvolVillainRC
One side of the rod is reverse thread. Make sure you are driving the correct side into the suspension arm. They should all be oriented the same way on all 4 corners so when you make an adjustment they all must be spun the same direction to adjust.
I just thought that you might mean the ball stud into the arm. Do yourself a favor and invest in a set of MIP hex and nut drivers. It will make the build so much more enjoyable.
I was wondering what happened to everyone. Last time I saw you was at Busted Axles last race before the group had a rift. It's been awkward, to say the least, to try and remain neutral to both parties with that.
Losing a parent is the roughest shit. You know it'll happen sometime, and if their health is poor, you even know it'll happen soon. Doctors might've even given you a precise window it'll happen, but it doesn't change that saw-toothed stab right through the chest when it finally happens. I with you 100% F that dude. Carry on, brother. I'll hold any questions I have till the next drift video.
It alright man, my condolences about your loss. Life gets in the way, completely understandable. I remember the first video I watched was when you got a vintage Javelin! Glad to hear you got a better job! I subbed to your other channel as well.
man it's been awhile since I've seen one of your rc monster truck vids! My condolence of your mother's passing. life's not easy but I wish you the best that everything will be sorted out. take care! ;)
Not really, its just the RR Gearbox, Steering rack, Hydra Shark flex chassis. The rest is off the shelf Yokomo YD2 SX/ZX parts. I did do the 6 hole pistons and TN shock shafts from Yokomo. Blue o-rings. Cant forget the CLSD diff as well.
Thank You for these Videos Evol! I recently pulled my Axial SMT10 Raw Builders Kit Project off the shelf to finish and appreciate all the info! This Bad Boy will be heavily equipped with Vanquish Products. Right On!
When you centered your steering servo? What exactly did you do? I’m struggling on getting mine straight so I have even turning on both sides. Right now my right side will turn more than the left
Since I removed the dbag who orginally responded to this question from my channel I'll at least post something for everyone else. I'm guessing in the 4 months since you have posted this you have this figured out, but for those who may not know....Servo centering is done mechanically, and electronically. You need to adjust the physical linkage to get it as close to centered as possible. Mostly using the book lengths on the steering linkage that should get you close. The rest must be done when the radio is installed. You first must power up your radio/reciever and servo WITHOUT any linkage attached. Make sure steering trim AND subtrim are 100 percent centered in the radio programming. I also make sure endpoints on the steering channel are at 100%. Once that is done you can then attach the servo horn and see where you are at. Attach the servo horn with the radio and servo powered up so it stays centered as you attach the horn. If the steering is off adjust the SUBTRIM, not the trim as Mr Percival suggested. Use the subtrim to get the wheels pointed in the right direction. IF you don't have enough adjustment within sub trim to get them centered, then you must go back and work on the physical centering. Subtrim is for the last 5% of getting it dialed in. Physical adjustment of linkage is the other 95% - I should say this should be done with the gyro out of the loop. That adds a whole other level of complexity. But at least without the Gyro in the loop and you get everything straight you can at least assume the initial setup is correct when you introduce the gyro into the loop. Anywho sorry I took so long to respond, life happens. Happy drifting.
The Hydra!! Im considering getting one soon as well, Im having a problem with keeping up as well. Mostly because it looks incredible too haha. Thanks for the update, its a constant battle on improvements so learning about your upgrades is super helpful!
Looking good! The red looks awesome and your absolutely correct about it being one of the best options for an upgrade to the yd2 platform. The price and super competitive setup you get is insane. Its a little tought to build and tune but is dialed once its there and is what all the pros are running for a reason!
Sweet as man, just building mine at the min, is there pdf files for the conversion? I have nothing to go off other than super g vid Edit: I found pdf for the front😂
Thank you🤙🏽 awesome video, I’m in the works of starting my own track but on a bigger scale, I’m thinking of turning it into a business still long ways to go.
I love it! They are popping up all over the country. RC Drift has hit critical mass:) Good luck with your venture. LMK if you need some custom drift barriers! driftitch.com/2023/04/29/drift-itch-track-decor-introducing-the-di-crash-barrier/
i just ordered this kit, just read it cant fit regular shorty lipos, you need to find 18.5 mm height lipos, can you confirm regular 25mm high shorty lipos dont fit even with spacers?
Your shark drifts so well, do you mind sharing your rear & Acuvance setup? I've perfected my front but my rear is so inconsistent, any help would be greatly appreciated!
I think im pretty well stock with the RAD, 5 degrees of boost and 22 degrees of turbo (36 deg physical on the Fledge) . Thats what a few of the guys are running at our track for a conservative setup. As for rear end, it's a work in progress. I switched to 6 hole 1.2 mil pistons and 100wt oil at all 4 corners. MST medium rear springs on Yokomo bigbores. I try to keep a pretty major rearward rake to transfer as much weight to the rear. I still have more work to do, but its leaps and bounds better than it was.
@@EvolVillainRC Awesome brother, thank you so much! I noticed you have the camber on squat setup for the rear, how much static camber do you recommend? Also, what gearing or FDR did you settle on?
@@bacon9896 I actually dont have a recommendation here because this car is a work in progress. I zero out on the bench and go from there. It looks like under throttle is more like -1 deg based on the wear strip on the tire. I need to probably test some more here, but the car has been so good I just haven't messed with it.
I just bought a Latrex. Took it for spin. This car is the worst. I never seen such loose steering in my life. It cannot hold a straight line to save its life.. yes I did adjust the trim. The front end components are very loose. Everything is very loose. Now that I think about it I haven't seen anyone of these RU-vid reviewers drive one in a a straight. Line . Go buy a mini b or a mini t.. Stay away . I had non prop😢ortional radio shack cars back in the 70s that were better. They could at least drive in a straight line.Shame on traxxas for this turd
how did you mount the ESC? is there a plate or did you mount it directly to the gear box with double sided tape or something? That red looks awesome btw.
@@EvolVillainRC thanks, another question, I am actually finishing this conversion from a yd2 RTR. I notice the rear turnbuckle connected to the shock tower is much longer than usual, can you tell me what ball stud you are using there? I also had to change my rear shocks from the backside of the shock tower to the front of the shock tower.
@@richardr.waithe1301 Its a 10mm threaded stand off with the ball stud threaded in on one side and a 12mm m3 button head on the backside of the tower. I bought a set of 10 on ebay for 8 dollars. You can run the shocks on the back of the tower using the same trick, 1 20mm theaded stand off or 2 10mm spacers.
