If we can help bring a little joy to those we meet and work with, or who view our channel, then we’re doing our job.
This is the official channel for On The Spot Window Cleaning located in San Luis Obispo County, California. Jeremiah Hickey (owner) is the 2019 "World Cup of Window Cleaning" champion held in London, England, as well as the 2019 International “Fastest Window Cleaner” (San Diego) and the 5X National Speed Window Cleaning Champion (various US cities). Window washing on the Central Coast of California is what we do.
Training videos, product reviews, and business concepts will be featured and discussed.
You could have used a small maykker sleeve and washed and buffed that out with 1 slightly damp and 1 dry Glass Microfiber cloth.. This is what i would have done but that depends on how big and how many windows . if it was just 1 or 3 i would rather use the maykker sleeve .
I have these windows. The blinds pop in and out as a unit in a second, way easier to clean them with the blinds out plus you can get to all the glass. Roll them up and there is a pull tab on the opposite side from the slider, pull the tab out away from the glass and a geared shaft disconnects the blinds from the side. Bigger windows will have support clip in the middle you need to unlatch first. They are still a pain...
Great video! I love cleaning glass. Did you say brass wool to help with the stubborn grime? i have been using 0000 steel wool. Yes it does rust after it gets wet but hopefully will not scratch the glass.
I am retired from 35+ years of window tinting. I first noticed this issue in the mid 1990's. I called PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass) and talked with an engineer. He told me, back then, that the 'particles' are a result of poor manufacturing: either too low tempering furnace temperatures, or: debris on the furnace rollers from improper cleaning. Since then most glass manufacturers (including PPG) say that is a myth, that NO glass was never meant to be cleaned with razor blades - ever - in the history of glass windows! Yeah, right, that's why there is an entire global industry that has catered to razor scrapers for glass for over a century! Also, I noticed that window manufacturers actually changed (in the 1990's I believe it was) the wording of the "how to care for windows" stickers that are on new windows to say 'never use a razor to clean'. Anyway, I have never encountered tempered glass manufactured before the 1990's that would scratch. (and there were a lot of older commercial buildings I tinted). The newer, cheaper tempering processes that include 'chemical' tempering will almost ALWAYS result in scratchy finished surface. That is why that "insulated" tempered units SHOULD be assembled with the tempered surface as surface #2 or #3, which would be surfaces that face into the insulating space. That is the same surface that the manufacturers logo's, marks and codes are etched on. If that etching is NOT between the glass panels, or it is a single pane commercial door, then the chances that the surface will scratch is nearly 100%. The same is true for LOW_E coatings. If the coating is NOT on surface #2 or #3 your razor will leave dark gray streaks as the "silver" is scratched and instantly starts oxidizing. I think some window manufacturers actually proudly proclaim that the LOW_E surface is #1 or #4 on their premium windows!!! The most efficient surface is actually #2 (as counted from the outside surface as #1). I have turned down 1000's of $ worth of work because I WOULD not scrape walls of glass on the lakefront side that I PROVED to the contractor were going to be scratched. The physics of tempered glass made it way too dangerous to do. The surface scratches WILL concentrate stress that the tempering is supposed to absorb/mitigate/relieve. Window glass industry actually have detailed pictures and charts on how to determine if a crack/fracture is from impact or thermal stress, but disavow any knowledge or repeatable demonstration that tempered glass in now much worse in surface quality. Hope this helps someone who is "BLAMED" for scratching a customers window .
That is awesome information! Thanks for sharing. We keep our explanations simple for the customer and won’t blade windows for all the reasons you mentioned. It’s a shame, when I first started in the 1990’s this was an unknown issue to the window cleaners who taught me and they razored almost everything.
Do you still like using the liquidator? What rubber do u use? I’ve used Ettore master and it seems to leave streaks on the window no matter what I do and I’ve heard Steve-o on his YT channel talk about that too, I want to like it but I can’t get good clean results. Any suggestions ? Great work BTW
I'm a tool junky, so I use all sorts of stuff. I've found using it on a 40º angle on the handle helps. I love the edge work, but the middle is temperamental for lines. I've had solid success for the past couple months using the 18" liquidator for most of my work. A little more soap goes a long way
No towels for detail? Window is already clean? Cleaning a clean window lol anyone can do that, they should actually do a dirty window and compete to have it done the fastest without any spots or streaks
During a window cleaning yesterday, we noticed several windows with the tempered glass stamp printed backwards. I took that to mean perhaps that the window was assembled incorrectly with the wrong surface exposed to the exterior. We chose to not use steel wool but opted for magic erasers instead. Have you ever encountered this?
I’m aware of what you’re talking about, but we don’t pay much attention to it. We rarely use anything more than our microfiber options when scrubbing (anything more and customers often assume any little scratch had to be because of the window cleaner). I used to blade and steel wool all the time, but I got tired of the conversations with customers. Now we just say we use microfiber and brushes so the scratches must have come from … fill in the most likely culprit How’re things going in Texas?
@@onthespotwindowcleaning1302 WOW! I can't imagine not using steel wool! Texas is good. Busy busy. This time next year our oldest will be in college. So hard to believe. Time is a blurre
@@onthespotwindowcleaning1302 Hello, could these light scratches be polished away with a normal polisher? I mean without grinding before, just by straight polishing the glass?
It should be fine if you change the backing plate like I show in the video. Both channels seem exactly the same to me, but there might be some differences.
The problem I always have is the drips that occur between the plastic borders on the outside of the windows. I’ve cleaned windows for 15 years, and I have yet to find a more efficient way than the ways in your video. Thanks for sharing though!
Thanks. This video is from one of our employee’s. Some love the Liquidator and some can’t stand it🤣. I’ve been having fun with the 18” Liquidator lately
I hav. 10" tht works great so I jut picked up n 18". However due to the length it gets floppy in he middle an gets caught on the handle. Causing it not to flip back properly.... hope I'm just missing something and it's not a flaw of th 18" version? Anyone else successfully used an 18" fliq?
I have used the 18” Fliq with success, but it does get floppy. I’ve seen some on RU-vid that put a rod of some sort in the edge of the material to keep it from being too floppy. Read MacGyver Bryan’s post in this thread.
