Hi Brad, I adjusted all my MTS1200 closer shims as they were all too loose. They now are in spec ranging from 0.05mm to 0.10mm but I'm now getting a light tapping sound I can hear at idle that wasn't there before. Any ideas what might cause that? My only suspision is where I have 0.05mm on the right closer, 0.10mm on the left closer, on the same cam, and the lack of synchronisation between them causes the tap.
your suspicion sounds like rubbish to me, but you could always redo it and make them the same to rule it out. really no idea, you could be right. but why would it be louder with less clearance? i don't see that the closers would make noise, but i guess there would be something as the opening rocker pushes the closing rocker into the closing lobe as it accelerates the valve open. softened by the closing spring? not sure. surely it'd be less noise than a loose closer though?
@@bradthebikeboy Not sure what it could be then. I'll recheck the vertical clearances as they're easy to get to. Maybe I swapped an opener shim onto the wrong valve. It's a bit worrying to ride the bike when it makes a noticeable tapping sound
@@henryosborne4694 if you think there's something wrong then the only way to solve it is get back in there. sucks, but it's worth doing, if only for peace of mind.
Locks like you had made that very often. So I have a question. I just have an problem. I think the Ducati exploded drawing is wrong. Ore not? The bearings are not in the position in your had than in the drawings. I just put it together and do not know what is right.
There's two bearings to fit into the head and it's pretty hard to put them anywhere else. need more info as to what you have and what you're trying to do.
@@bradthebikeboy I take new ones in and see the drawing maybe wrong. The 2 bearings on the gear side must have a socket between. In the exposed drawings they have that not.
At low RPM and deceleration of throttle I will get exhaust popping. I'm hoping this will solve the issue. And I also noticed there's some slight oil seeping around the hose from under the airbox, and am wondering if that is a result of the same problem?
Oh, how have-I followed your clip to get the Ducati S2R 1000 up and running after her suddenly very leaky fork/seal had sent the front tire sliding on a slow corner. 1000 thanks to you !
Thank you! I just laid in bed after a frustrating attempt to adjusting my S4 valves and watched your video. At least I have the head off so that’s lol. Thank you for sharing!
Hey there im currently working on my s2r 1000 aswell and just adjusted the valve clearance, i also have to swap the belts would 110hz be good for new belts so they can strech out a bit and be at 100 hz or Something after a few Kilometers? My manual also says 140 but i recon this would do more damage to the berings than be an Advantage
@@bradthebikeboy if you say so, i will do so thanks for the fast reply aswell. Im very grateful that you put out so many videos ive watched a lot in the last weeks but you always have a little tip and or Something that makes it a little easier so thanks a lot for such helpfull videos. Hope you have a great week, much love from germany ✌🏻
Hi Brad, I was hoping you could help me out on a clutch related issue. I bought a clutch assembly Ducati code 19020013a which is apparently a replacement for 19020011a. The 19020013a holds a weird clutch disc which has friction material on one side and non on the other side. It is also thicker as usual. I do not have any reference where this weird plates should go? Do you know? Thanks Joep
19020013a is just the generic steel pack. i haven't bought one of them for years, so don't have any idea what they're supplying now. usually that was the very outside plate used up until 91 or so. sounds like you've been supplied the wrong part to me, or it's in the wrong box. wet clutch packs were like that up to 97 too. should have 7 of the same style frictions, 8 of 2mm steels and 1 of 1.5mm conical steel.
@@bradthebikeboy it definitely a old style 750 clutch pack with the clutch slave in the clutch cover like the paso or 88 sport and early 750 SS. Thanks
Thanks for this Brad. You are lucky to have those rocker arm holding tools. What is your approach when the closing shims won't drop down to expose the collets, and when the collets are really stuck in the valve stem? My 72000km Multistrada has had stuck closing shims and collets on all of the vertical valves. Had to use a hammer and socket to bash the closing shims down and then a hammer and screwdriver to get the collets out. Bit worried I will damage the valve seal if not careful.
i use a 3/8 extension, but you need to be mindful that the valve is sitting on the top of the piston, and you'll bend it if you hit the shim too hard. just tappy tappy tappy for as long as it takes. the collets can be a real pita, i use a little screwdriver or pick. the biggest concern there is losing them as they fly away. you can have the shim down a touch, but tstill covering them somewhat and get a pick in between the ends of the collets. no magic method though. generally, the stuck collets is a real 1198 thing ime.
@@bradthebikeboyCheers. The tapping with the extension trick worked well. I hope the other 2 valves I used with the hammer aren't bent ... Still need to get those bloody collets out whilst struggling with a plastic pry bar against the rocker
Hi Brad sorry for the question,I was just wondering what sort of cam timing figures you would recommend for my 96 900ss with ST2 cams. Thanks from kiwi land 👍
106 degrees ish, depending on the piston to valve clearance. that would determine it. probably as advanced as possible to maintain 1.5mm piston to valve clearance.
So glad I found you. I have a SS1000DS and there is so little information online about repairs and maintenance. I was wondering what rear wheel and center stands you are using? I have subscribed.
On the left side at the very bottom i see brown stains on oil reservoir what is that from. Im looking at purchasing a 500 mile 99 996. It has the same stains
#887131091. any dealer or google search. www.google.com/search?q=ducati+887131091&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU809AU809&oq=ducati+887131091&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiABBiiBDIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiABBiiBDIKCAQQABiABBiiBDIKCAUQABiABBiiBDIGCAYQRRhAMgYIBxBFGDzSAQgzNjI1ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Can the valve clearances be checked (not adjusted, just checked) with the engine on the bike and the belts on? I'm looking at a 796 with 12k miles and the owner doesn't know if the valves has been adjusted, but he did just put on brand new belts, so I don't really want to mess with the belts if I don't have to. Also what is an acceptable clearance for both openers and closers?
guessing you can't be bothered watching and just want answers huh? i have said many times, if you have no intention of adjusting the clearances, just go and do something else instead of checking anything. there's really no point. do it right, or just don't do it. simple. if you go by the ducati specs it's probably fine. it will be for a long time. want it to run as well as it can? it'll need adjusting. 0.10mm opening clearance, zero closing clearance.
@@bradthebikeboy that's a lot of words for a half-assed answer. Just like your videos, which I did watch through all 5 parts actually, but it's a lot of rambling and not much doing so naturally people skip over a lot of it. No worries, found a more concise and to the point video after I asked that question which answered the simple question I asked.
nice video, but you should make a shorter version without just the essential steps and leave out all the details for different forks. no need for all the info for different models
@@bradthebikeboy That's not a complaint. That's an entitled bufoon cause he shouldn't have to sift through your effort to cover the many variances of Showas in a single vid. "Can you make a version that only covers my fork cause you're wasting my time about forks that I don't even own?" "Less knowledge please ." said no one ever.
I have one theory as to why the app is making such a fuss when you're recording. My guess is that you usually don't speak as much when you're checking belt tension. And the frequencies when you're talking might be stored in the apps cache and then interfer with the measurements.
As always: Nice video...thanks for that! A question about the probes that you insert into the manifold to measure: Do you use a screwed adapter or do you simply push the copper pipe a few centimeters into the manifold (without further sealing)?
Hello sir, can you please help me, I have Ducati 848 Evo, sometimes it starts and sometimes not, I have to put it on the main switch, I have to do a lot of research, it is bad, I have been told by the company. That compressor is down, I need your help please sir if you agree
Hey Brad, big fan of yours, fellow Melburnian! I just put in new everything from a comprehensive kit, including floats and float valves. You mention that the float height has never needed adjusting - should I just leave it and see the fuel level as per your blog post from a few years ago, and adjust later only if necessary?
if it's all apart i'd set them to 12mm as they fall to closed, not with the carbs fully upside down. no point waiting until it's all together to find it needs to come apart again. occasionally they're off.
Hi Brad, this has been a great resource whilst doing my 749 for the first time though I haven't mastered keeping the collets same way up and cant see enough wear marking on them to tell even though engine has done 21K. Anyway thanks for sharing; the best Ducati tech walk through IMO :)
@@bradthebikeboy I always said I like a challenge. But I'm used to the Japanese inline 4 type of challenge. Have you any general advice about getting started in the Ducati world? They seem amazing machines for those prepared for them
@@Khar_Toba it's just a motorcycle, it should be expected to behave as a motorcycle. don't buy into the typical "temperamental italian mistress" bullshit some blokes just love. spend the money to do things properly, or just don't bother.
@@bradthebikeboy Yes I had perceived a bit of mystique which is often nonsense in disguise. Thanks for keeping it real, I'll try not to be deterred by not being familiar
on ds style engines 2005 ish and later they changed the lh journal on the cam to be narrower and further out, and i find on those engines they can get noisy when hot if the belts are tighter than 105hz or so. so i set them at 100hz. you can do whatever you like. experiment and see what you find. the only difference is the possible noise when hot. it's a horrid noise.
My Hyper 1100 manual involves using a setting tool and a lot of heat for installing the steering head bearing races in the frame. I thought it would be like most other motorcycles and just tap out/press in the new ones. What do you think about the Ducati procedure?
i use the genuine tool. well, an old one. 887131062 looks like the one i have. it's just a couple of discs on a threaded rod that pulls them in. does work nicely if you use it well, always use the fixed disc to pull the cone in. otherwise they can cock if you use the floating disc i find. heat is up to you, but it's fairly easy to damage the paint around steering head tubes ime, much more than you'd expect. the steel isn't going to grow a lot, but it can help.
