Ha, I bet that was a blast. I'd be amazed if it didn't shake the scooter to bits. Does it have any suspension?

@CoruscatorMTB to bit's I was shaken but I got an after market suspension set up on the front end

Oh wow, that impressive. They are a good set of wheels.

Sometimes yes, but usually I climb up from the car park side.

How and why exactly do you think a bash guard is going to damage the frame when the guard is mounted in arguably the strongest point of the bicycle frame?

@@CoruscatorMTB May be so, but mounting point itself is a weak spot. However breaking the mounting points is not that critical, but it is still a damage.

Always happy to help. Thanks for watching.

I have to disagree buddy. I have first hand experience of breaking a chainring over a big rock on a trail. If I'd had one of these chain guards, it would've taken the brunt of the impact and saved my chainring. My chain gave me little to no protection at all. All I had afterwards was an expensive chainring that needed replacing.

I put a link in the description. Here it is again. 👍 bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/service-upgradeparts/shimano/WO-Y63Z28000.html

That's a good question. You're right, they should be included with all derailleurs.

XTR derailleurs come with something similar. Not attached to the ferrule but a separate "noodle" with a flange that sits in the housing stop. I have a few of these in my spare bin for some reason. Also have those ferrules with the extension in my spares bin. Those ferrules used to come with Shimano shift cable kits.

@@andyeunson270 Ah that's interesting. I've not seen those ones before, I'll see if I can find some. Always good to have a few knocking around in the parts bin. You never know when you might need them.

That's an interesting point you make. Although I'm not so sure I can completely agree with you. I think the bash guard is mounted at one of the strongest points on the frame and the chances of an impact transmitting through the guard and damaging the frame is slim to none. It's much more likely that the guard would deflect and absorb the impact than it would be for it to damage the frame. I think the trade off between an impact unlikely damaging the frame or of it more likely protecting the chain ring is one I personally am prepared to accept.

@@CoruscatorMTB Good comment and reply. I don't have an evidence to say which is correct. I have a plastic one and it has taken some huge hits and therefore has protected my chainring. It is still working as intended, but has some scrapes and a good gouge. I treat it as a consumable part like the skid plates on my truck.

@@grgoss1 Cheers bud. a fair reply. I don't think it matters what material the guard is made from, within reason. As long as it protects the more expensive components from avoidable damage and doesn't do any adverse damage to the frame then its worth utilising. I agree, it is a consumable part.

I've done in about 2 so far.

I've fucked multiples chainrings on a MTB wtf are you on about

I learned the hard way when i hit my chainring on a big rock. It cost a small fortune to replace my chainring. I've used a chain guard ever since. Glad you enjoyed the video.

You can get bash guards that mount straight onto the frame without using iscg mounts. Don't be disheartened, you have options. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392281233991?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DxbLgvT0QzW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=e7UyZZ5nR7u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@@CoruscatorMTB And of course there are crank mounted bash guards as well, which will fit any common crankset. Maybe not a good idea with ultralight fragile carbon cranksets.

Crank mounted? I haven't seen these. Where are they listed?

@@CoruscatorMTB They might be called "bash rings" instead. It's just a chainring without teeth, essentially.

Oh, I know the ones you mean. Cheers for your comments.

Glad it helped you.

Sounds like a bit of an issue. Glad you resolved it in the end.

Oh yes, so it does. I've never noticed that before.

Thank you

Thanks

I think it was about 2pm.

Hi, the bearings for my front wheel are 2 x 6803 2RS (26mm OD x 17mm ID x 5mm W). I use a 25.90mm diameter press tool to fit them. The bearings for my rear wheel are 2 x 6803 2RS (26mm OD x 17mm ID x 5mm W) also. I use the same 25.90mm press tool for this wheel too. The bearings for my freewheel are 1 x 6803 2RS (26mm OD x 17mm ID x 5mm W) and 1 x 6802 2RS (24mm OD x 15mm ID x 5mm W). I use the same 25.90mm press tool as above and also use a 23.90mm press tool for the smaller bearing. Cheers.

@@CoruscatorMTB Do I need that specific tool from Newman of I can use anything that has that diameter? Does the normal press tool goes inside? Because of that sleeve inside.

@@MetalFukaz You can use anything that is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearings you are fitting. Just make sure you only apply force to the outer race when fitting the bearings or you will damage them and shorten their lifespan. The only tool that goes inside a bearing is the one for the smaller bearing when fitting it into the freewheel.

@@CoruscatorMTB I saw online that they just pound it in with the hammer same as you did. I can then just get pipe same diameter and do it with that?

@@MetalFukaz well yes you can, ideally you'd want to use a thick walled pipe because you need to be careful not to damage the seal in the bearing with this method. You could always use a washer the same size as the bearing to protect the seal while you hammer it. This will give you a better idea of the kind of tools you'd need to use: r2-bike.com/NEWMEN-Hub-Tooling-Set-for-Fade-and-Gen-2

Agreed, it's barely a red section of the trail.

Hi, I think you're referring to a Generation 1 hub. My hub is the Centerlock version of the Generation 2 hub and doesn't have the bolt in the end cap. See here, Gen 1 and Gen 2 differences: www.newmen-components.de/upload/_temp/gallery_dc303a7d-ef8e-484f-a53b-f82f11f6d65f/Hub_Comparison_Gen1_Gen2_FADE.pdf This is my actual hub: www.newmen-components.de/upload/_temp/gallery_dc303a7d-ef8e-484f-a53b-f82f11f6d65f/Gen2_MTB_rear_CL_exploded_view.PDF

Hi, its called a TyreGlider. They have a website here: tyreglider.co.uk

Hi yes, I ride a Cube Stereo 150 C:62 Carbon Race Edition, (that I've upgraded with various parts, along the way). archiv.cube.eu/en/2019/255100 I've had a couple of offs recently and have swapped back to a new 2.6 Magic Mary on the front and have put the 2.4 Tacky Chan on the rear. I wasn't overly impressed with the Tacky Chan up front, if I'm honest. I do intend to make a couple of videos about this but I haven't had the time yet. Thanks for your comment.

@@CoruscatorMTB nice thanks a lot ! Got a similar configuration with a commencal tempo ohlins rxf36 160mm front and a ttx1 rear and recently put fresh tires : magic mary 2.6 front and tacky chan 2.4 rear. I’m in french brittany so a really muddy terrain, this combo is perfect, really impatient to have your impression about ride a full tacky chan configuration, got a second one when I go to the Alps in summer only for some enduro ride on dry terrain ;) (in super gravity and ultra soft front and super dh ultra soft rear). By the way magic mary is sooo good in mud, but pretty heavy when I have to pedal 😆

I'm glad the video helped and you were able to improve your forks. Thanks for your comments.

I think I preferred the extra grip that the 2.6 gave me. Do Schwalbe make a Tacky Chan in a 2.6? I couldn't find one when I bought mine.

@@CoruscatorMTB I domt believe they do. I’ve got a 2.4 tacky chan to go on but atm I run maxxis dhr and dhf 2.5 on front and 2.4 on rear.

Yes, it works exactly as it should.

I find it eliminates tyre burping.

@@CoruscatorMTBHmm, interesting. What tire pressure are you running?

@@Eric.V. Depending on what kind of riding I'm doing, I run between 25 and 35 psi.

Well, I did not know that. Cheers bud, a good tip.

I didnt know this 🙈😂

Ah, what an excellent comment. Thank you very much.

Yes, I think those jumps warrant a video all of their own. I had intended to make that video but the weather and other commitments prevented me from doing so. I have done some trial runs on those jumps and they're awesome and pretty big but I wasn't happy with the video footage. Hopefully if we get some dry days soon or maybe nearer the spring I'll get around to doing so.

Hi, this is not a Microspline freewheel in the video. Mine is a Gen2 MTB Centerlock Hub with an SH freewheel. According to Newmens website your XD freewheel is different but the hub should be the same. See here: www.newmen-components.de/upload/_temp/gallery_dc303a7d-ef8e-484f-a53b-f82f11f6d65f/Gen2_MTB_rear_CL_exploded_view.PDF

are gen2 xd freehub and ms interchangeables ?!

That's a fair comment. The extra 20mm will alter these variables as you suggest but this fork can be bought as a 150mm travel variant. As far as I can tell there is no other change in the dimensions of the forks sold by Rockshox throughout the range of travel lengths, from 100mm to 150mm that they sell. If its good enough for them, then it's good enough for me.

Hi, in my video I didn't need to change this bearing but when I do I use my Newmen bearing removal tools and a soft blow mallet. You can buy these removal tools here: r2-bike.com/NEWMEN-Hub-Tooling-Set-for-Fade-and-Gen-2

To seat the bead too*

@@jblbassslayer3108 Thanks. I used to struggle with this too but there's a bit of a knack to it. Good quality rim tape which matches the width of your rim is a must. I've found it's the tapping of the tyre on the bench a few times that does the trick. It causes a slight increase in pressure within the tyre that pushes the beads out towards the wider edges of the rim. This creates enough of a seal to allow inflation by hand or foot pump. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

@@jblbassslayer3108 ثنننططةىرط

@@jblbassslayer3108 حاجة خط

Thanks bud, we'll have to agree to disagree.

Hi, thanks for your comment. I'm not sure I understand how removing an 'optional' 20mm spacer would or could affect the progression of the travel. This action is controlled via the damper. This fork is sold in a range of travel lengths from 100 to 150mm in 10mm increments. The internal components remain unchanged throughout the range apart from the amount of spacers. how could the progression of the travel be affected if the internal components remain the same? See here: www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/fs-rcns-rl-d1

@@CoruscatorMTB the spacer limits the air volume on your fork, causing them to ramp up in stiffness as it goes through their travel. Adding more spacers-or tokens in the case of Fox-will make the fork move faster during the initial travel then slowly stiffening up as it continues. This is why it is called “progressive” travel. No spacers allows the fork to move fast at both ends of the travel, thus “linear” travel. This only affects how the fork “feels” as it goes through its travel and is different from their dampers. Only reason why I asked this is because to my knowledge, only Suntour forks have the ability to change travel without having to buy a different internals since you can move the pins on the air chamber from 100mm to 130mm. I have yet know of a way for Fox/Rockshox to do this without changing their internals so I am very curious if their was a DIY method. As for which is best, we’ll, that’s a personal taste based on how you ride and your terrain. Where I live we have rocky hills and drops so descending on a linear travel fork is crazy scary as you are immediately placed well over the bars due to the fork using all its travel at once instead of progressively ramping up. So yeah, on hills, I use my long travel 150mm bike with 3 volume spacers and on XC flow trails I use my 120mm bike with no spacers.

@@duyle557 Thank you for your comments. I think you are confusing 'All-Travel Spacers' with 'Bottomless Tokens'. Quote from the service manual: "Bottomless Tokens can be added to, or removed from, the DebonAir top cap to fine-tune the spring curve and bottom out feel." You can see for yourself, here is a link to the service manual: www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/front-suspension/2018-2023-judy-30-recon-service-manual-english.pdf

@@CoruscatorMTB ah, you are probably right. Like I said, I’m no expert, just trying cheat the system, pay less, get more. 😎 Good riding.

Yep. Travel spacers and tokens are both different things. In a Recon, you cant use tokens anyway (unless you make some punk diy ones). I think you need to have a 35 or higher model to use them

How much do they cost?

@@CoruscatorMTB I paid £180 second hand for select rc2. I changed out the recon because it is about 700g heavier

Thank you! Cheers!

I think they're great 'all rounders', stiff and reliable yet lightweight. I've done some huge 2 meter drop offs without any issues and they're light enough to be good on the climbs too. They've stood the test of time well and are easily serviceable. I'm 90kgs. Here's a review from 2019: www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/wheels/wheel-sets/newmen-evolution-sl-a-30-wheelset-review/

Those bolts on the bottom are keeping them in place bro. And those top caps are keeping them from shooting in your face😂

Sorry I've only just seen this comment. I meant to say inch lbs. Good spotting.

Thanks, glad you liked it. Feel free to watch my other videos and subscribe if you like them too.

Thanks

I don't know about the Judy fork. You could have a look on Srams website for the service manual for your fork to see if its possible.

It's a great trail. It has a bit of everything; climbs, descents, single track, jumps, technical sections. It's been recently overhauled near the Giants Finger section making it completely rideable now, not just a section where you have to get off and push over the thick roots. Glad you enjoyed it.