The Collared Scholar was founded in 2007 by our lead trainer, Meagan Karnes. We strive to bring our students the best online training courses, webinars and resources we can. We gear our courses and programs towards pet owners, pet care professionals and sport dog competitors.
Your still not on subject mentioned on title even half way into the video, seems like more of an advt for the long leash brand your mentioning over and over. Only at 4:55 do you start any teaching at all.
This video was very helpful. I really like the idea of a long leash but it was always tied in knots, sticks got stock in line, wrapped around my legs, wrapped around my dogs legs, this is so amazingly simple, and worked great. Thank you.
Yeah, exactly. It would be great to have it on RU-vid not Instagram. Instagram is so hard to look at. I’m afraid my dog is going to pull me off my feet
Thank you!! I've had a hard time finding videos that show the process with a dog who previously had really bad fear of muzzles. So many videos show a dog who has no previous exposure. This shows me it's possible to get my dog re-introduced. Thanks!!
OMG! Yes, I tell all my students even if you have the best dog, get them used to a muzzle, especially if you travel. If anything bad happens, the first thing a vet is going to do is put a muzzle on your dog, so why freak them out twice - once with the muzzle and once with whatever the vet has to do to the dog. My Beagle/JRT mix, who hasn't worn one in a while, actually wagged her tail when I got her muzzle out the other day. It's helped my fearful 100lb Dobe gain more confidence with people, too. I did 3-5 repetitions before meal time for about one week before I ever even tried clipping it on them. Used to smear liverwurst or cream cheese in it and let them lick it out. Helped keep my one male from being rehomed. He thought he would try to take over my older 100 lb Dobe who is a therapy dog, very laid back, but wasn't going to let that happen either. They were best buds until the 14 month mark of the younger Dobe. Took a while, but they can now be in the same room without muzzles, all night. House rule is they have to be in their respective beds. No rough housing in the house. They want to play, muzzles on, outside. We're up to 20 minutes in the back yard without muzzles now. Again, progressing at the slowest dog's pace. Check out Susan Garrett's TEMP video for body language, her building your dog's confidence zones, and Kikopup's calming signals video. Needless to say, they love getting their muzzles on and we never make them feel bad about wearing one - such handsome dudes! Hope that helps.
I have a service dog and I'm going get him used to a muzzle in case I ever need to put one on him for any reason. He's never had any type of aggression but I feel like I should train it to him anyways incase he gets injured and has to go to the vet and he tries to bite someone because he's in pain or something. Thank you for this!
saw someone with a 150 foot scuba dive reel, tethered to the dog for frisbee and ball throwing.... that dog got a good run in a park setting, and quick no tangle wind up after... seemed like a good idea for untrusted recall, going to give it a try myself.
This is an amazing video! Thank you for showing all of the steps! I've been working with my dog on engagement, and I can't wait to start adding this into the mix!!! 😁
This is fantastic! I’ve see how my roommate would force the muzzle on her dog and it resulted in him hating it, lashing out and biting crazily when it got close to him. I didn’t want to do that but I also didn’t know where to introduce the muzzle to my dog. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for this video! I have a question not related to safety per se, but rather training using a long line. I've recently realized I've painted myself into a corner a bit. Here's the problem: I've been using a 50 ft long line so my husky mix can really run everywhere to get his energy out, explore, smell, etc. After about 45 min of that, we "calm down" for a bit, and then for the last 15 min I switch to a shorter walking leash, give a cue that we are going to do our loose leash walking work and do our session working on that. This is working beautifully. HOWEVER, problem now though, is that I'm realizing that next, I'd like him to still have that long-lead activity, but now with the caveat that he can do everything EXCEPT hitting the end of the long line. I'd also love to ideally let him run for like a hundred feet back and forth but don't want him coming to a crashing stop for both our sakes! Any thoughts?? (apart from the fact that I should have incorporated this rule at the beginning...🙄 I'm painfully aware of that now 😳😕) TIA!
Thank you for this training exercise, I am looking forward to giving it a workout with my boxer pup. He is convinced that the entire world is more interesting than me at this point, especially around distraction. I can do this in my yard to help him learn. Also, your blog post have been the best dog training info I have found online. So much snake oil out there these days, your words have really impacted the way I behave with my pup, and how I approach his learning, and our journey as a team.
Great demo much appreciated, I wish I'd watched this before trying a long line for the first time this morning. Having a very fast lurcher (and the rope burns to prove it), I might also be donning a pair of gloves before we try again tomorrow!
Exactly my experience, I've got the cuts on my finger to prove it. My dog is so fast, she loves other dogs and my goal is to stop her running over to other dogs, and get her to come back, none of which worked yesterday, all we did was get caught up and I got sore fingers. Think I am out of my depth here.
Yes. I had a line attached to my puppy in the yard and he started running to eat the backyard mulch..so I stepped on the lead and he started crying because the force jerked his neck. I'm very lucky he was OK. We immediately switched to a harness.
I don't normally use a harness, but started using one with the long leash so it doesn't tangle as much in my pup's legs. The harness keeps it to either side of his back instead of dragging between his legs. Still not perfect, but it helps.
All dogs have food drive. If I have a dog that doesn't want to work for food, I work on building their motivation before starting this process. There are a couple articles on the topic on my website. :)
