Honestly I just try getting that gutter under the drip edge as much as I possibly can while maintaining a pitch. I mean don't just crap it way way up lol never had any issues.
Did you get it adjusted? Seems like the screw is way down in the housing. I talked with Echo directly and asked if it was a flathead or Phillips…she thought flathead. I can’t tell if my screwdriver is seated properly or what’s going on in there… My CS 330T seems to be putting out too much oil… Can you give some tips on how your adjustment went?
If the drip edge is brown with the drip white paint on it. Then what is the apron that is supposed to be on the fasica board. The drip edge I thought was suppose to be on the edge of the house that has no gutter. Am I wrong?
The drip edge is NOT for keeping the water from going into the facia wood. It's to cause water to DRIP off of it into the gutter without adhering to it and causing it to run against the facia at all. If you make your kitchen faucet produce a thin stream and touch it, it will curl backward, it's that affect a drip edge is meant to destroy.
This is exactly my scenario. They installed these hidden hangers on my roof that already had those same drip edge. Now I have leaks between the gutter and the fascia in a lot of places.
U could have put the rain gutter below the drip edge. Then you could have used a piece of straight metal flashing as an extension. Put it under the drip edge / and over the rain gutter. Ur drip edge looks short / the capillary action may wick water into your house. Perhaps using a little sealer under the drip edge would make it 100. But good u got it tucked.
Drip edge and Gutter Apron are 2 different materials for 2 different locations. Drip edge is for Gable/rake sides of roofs and Gutter Apron is for the aeve/gutter sides. Gutter Apron runs down and into the gutters.
drip edge needs bent out more . I just decided since Iwas putting on a new roof to get 6 inch gutters and they are great . Drip edge is bent out and my house is 100 feet long . Ice and water shield on whole roof and new shingles and gutters cost me 11 thousand dollars . Plus all new custom bent drip edge , not the cheap garbage you buy in lowes or home depot that has almost no drop and no decent drip edge
Whatever you do, don't silicone that top! I've seen it many times. Personally id get it up under that drip edge but you could just flash it as well. I use that as a last resort if the level brings the gutter down below it.
Had the same issue with my 2011 nv200. Sprayed CRC engine start into the air filter compartment for 3 secs and start but in a weeks time it does it again
Had the same issue with my 2011 nv200. Sprayed CRC engine start into the air filter compartment for 3 secs and start but in a weeks time it does it again
Both hangers represented here are junk , one weak as hell but both carry the same liability. Allow water to wick back towards the fascia, speed hangers are junk carry screws in your bags like a man. Remember to your penetration should always be as high as possible without missing the back of the gutter. This will minimize any moisture getting to the fascia, if you live in a cold freezing climate align drive longer screws that will allow penetration into the rafters.
Thank you. I was wondering why my gutters were in such bad shape. I pick up the brackets at Lowes but you are correct its the same brackets at Home Depot.
I honestly think this is a good idea. I’ve had a couple gutter I’ve installed myself and knowing the fact that one side must be higher in order to get the right slope, u deal with this issue where the edging is. I’ve tried tucking the screw under the edging but it can only go up so high . Thumbs up bro . Question do u put those hangers at every 16” ? Or even when there is a fascia is there a certain distance u should have them @??
How is he supposed to tuck the rain gutter back lip under the drip edge with the end cap ? Either cut vertically on the endcap so it too can slide under or cut a relief cut in the corner of the drip edge at the 90 degree bend around the corner, or a relief cut in the rain gutter to tuck it?
So the hangers should be installed under the drip edge? I looked at how my neighbors gutters are installed and they screwed the hangers right through the drip edge. Im not sure if that is right or wrong, but he had a gutter install service install his.
You have exposed fascia wood, and incorrectly installed gutter hangers. Water will get into those screws and rot the wood. Just pull the drip edge away from the fascia and put the gutter hangers under it. That's why the hangers have that gap there towards the back. Admittedly all the gutters on my house are like this, I've made some repairs and while I was there corrected the gutter hangers. But honestly they've been like that for probably at least 20 years, so I'm looking at major repairs to the fascia boards. I'm no expert, but the number one rule in roofing is to shed water and protect fasteners. I think the reality is that the drip edge should be installed with 1/2" or better space between it and the fascia. That would allow room under it for gutter hardware and would prevent any water wicking up to the fascia.
The gutter hangers that are supposed to clip on the back of gutter is useless. You need a drip edge. A 1/4 inch spacing of drip edge off fascia is only permitted when not using gutter. The other issue with them clips and most others is that when rain water is coming off roof it hits the screw and then water travels down screw then back of gutter and fascia
@@madmanmapper i heard of some clips having some type of rubber grommet. But I use silicone around screw penetration. I used to build garages . And do the roof and gutters. I'm not strictly a gutter guy. There mite be some hangers out there that are "perfect ". But the ones that are readily available at local stores and box stores are def not the perfect ones
@@jheiny1231 Silicone sounds good. So then how do you hang the gutters? Hanger screwed on top of the drip edge? Behind? Under? Do you use gutter spikes instead?
@@madmanmapper hanger screwed in the face of drip edge. Then gutter. The backside of gutter needs to be behind drip edge. Or gutter apron. Gutter flashing. Whatever your using. The only downfall is your puncturing holes with the screws from the hangers. There's no way around it. Silicone for insurance
Mine don't bend in, but they do bend down and let the gutter escape... Except mine are 30 years old maybe it's just an older style? I agree the reviews for the amerimax ones are lackluster compared to others...
Problem is that i have seen 90 percent of the drip edge is installed wrong, it should be off the fascia board 1/4' or about your pinky finger width off the fascia. This way you can install the gutters correctly using those hangers
That's wrong. A 1/4 inch off the fascia board is used when there is no gutter being used. The back of gutter is supposed to behind drip edge. The issue is the hangers are designed to clip on to the back of gutter but they don't work with drip edge
@@jheiny1231yes they will. Done it for almost 23 years now. Personally i don't like that style of clip but they will work. More expensive than buying hangers and screws separate.
STOP CALLING and Blaming it on CON-VID ... It was and is a "PLANNED ECONOMIC RESET" words from James Bullard in March 2020 President of The Federal Reserve Bank (Private not owned by the USA Government) for those who didn't know that. aka...The Greatest Theft Of Wealth In The History Of Man.
Nope, they screw through the drip edge then the gutter as seen. How do you propose to install a drip edge, which hangs into the gutter, if the bracket is clipped on the back of the gutter?
