Modifications and/or repairs (and maybe a few reviews)to various and sundry aspects of mostly household kinds of things that MAYBE you will find useful. This channel is dedicated to all those that have helped me and many others by sharing their real life experiences with stuff that we have needed information about! I try to do what I can to make things work with what I have around before I go to the store. Maybe you will be inspired to do some modification in a way that's nicer and/or better than what I have done- that just makes sense; for me its a lighthearted approach to getting things done joyfully, inexpensively, and effectively.
Got used to the quirks and like the options but now three months of use and im having a lid lock issue. The l e d light flashes and will not start. Have warranty call coming. Can not recommend this machine now
That's a bummer! The whole lid lock concept is weird to me- I wonder if it is about keeping people from looking in and seeing what is going on or NOT going on when the washer is operating. I'm glad it's possible to bypass the lid lock. I hope you get yours up and running again. Thanks for the comment!
Seems to be a control board issue. I managed to get my fingers to where the switch toggles ( lid was unlocked not like the flashing led indicated) and went back and forth with it and between unplugging and re trying I managed to get it started. I'm thinking that the motherboard can't tell if the switch is closed or open. I know it will go down again, so I haven't canceled the warranty appt. Bought the extended warranty just now too. This machine does a nice job of washing clothes and I'd like to get some years out of this thing. Thanks for the reply and hope you have good luck
how to spread emt conduit? wire's already in place so I don't think heating is practical. thinking of a tool like a turnbuckle that could be micro adjusted to push them apart. ideas?
A couple questions : ) EMT meaning metal conduit, is that right? (heating won't help with metal emt for sure). If so, are they rusted at all? And you are wishing to install an outlet/junction box on the ends of the conduits correct? How about using 1/2 in. Electrical Metallic Tube (EMT) EMT-to-Box Offset Set-Screw Connectors ? You don't need to spread the conduits much to get them on. You can swivel them a bit after you put them in the box to fit onto the conduit ends. I think you are on the right track by not wanting to bend of crimp metal emt conduit. www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-EMT-to-Box-Offset-Set-Screw-Connector-90371/100120544
@@dbsmaybemodsrepairs yes EMT is the metal electrical conduit Thank you for the link to those offsets from Home Depot. I saw those, but I guess I never realized they could be swiveled Kinda feeling like duh 🙄 I’ll give them a try.
@@oahukiteboarder808 I hope you have enough space to get them on the conduit ends AND I hope they work !!!😉 If the offsets hit each other when you are trying to install them and won't thread in there because that, maybe just thread in one offset and one straight; thread the offset one in there first and leave it a bit loose for swiveling in the general position you desire, then thread the straight one in.
@@oahukiteboarder808 My pleasure- I am only standing on the shoulders of the good folks that have helped me a million times (give-or-take) over the years. I hope you got that junction box or whatever installed OK
If it's been sitting a while-lube the blades (if you can) a bit before you try and loosen them up like in the video. Hope it is just stuck and not broken so the method in the video works; we're keeping our fingers crossed! Thanks for the note!
I spray urethane products everyday as an automotive painter. All the products we use are chemically catalyzed vs this product your talking about here is air catalyzed. There is a high probability that the trash deposits your seeing in you coatings are not trash but instead a phenomenon caused by introducing water into the process. Open or uncatalyzed urethane products can absorb moisture. Open or uncatalyzed meaning sanded or open can. If I leave a loose lid on clear or the clear catalyst over several days those materials will wick moisture right out of thin air and cause this very phenomenon you are experiencing. Your sanding this air catalyzed clear that is freshly applied is similar to leaving the lid loose on the can...the sanding opens the face of the clear and because it is air catalyzed instead of chemically catalyzed it is like a sponge for moisture. The moisture being introduced when you clean it with water. Then you apply another coat and the reaction is seen. Again I deal with urethane car products so there may be different chemical additives that would dismiss my theory here about the product your using. An additional tip is the strainer your using should be 100 micron or smaller if the product itself actually has trash in it. That type of strainer can be had at any automotive paint store...usually for free. Additionally there should be some type of preferred cleaner to use with this product before and between coats. Maybe Google the tech sheet for the product your using. Hope this helps and have a blessed day.
Hi Larry, that's is great information, thank you! I wonder myself as I really wanted to have the durability of spar urethane and probably should have just used regular polyurethane. I recoated as couple months ago with the last can I had of the spar and it was still full of debris: I was intensely careful about sanding , washing and drying- still tooooooo many tiny goobers ! I'm in a very, very dry area so dampness or humidity were not a factor in my case. To be clear, I used a rattle can for the last couple times. I was happy with the coverage and shine, it just is not the same with all that crap in it. I think the spar aspect of it or just the bottom of the barrel so to speak of the batch I got? All that being said, the point you made about the material wicking moisture and probably junk along with it, is amazing and helpful: I hope everyone pays attention to that: I know I am!! Thanks again
Hey man thanks for this. Did exactly what you did and it worked perfectly! Only thing that sucked I was in front yard no shade in phoenix in August and it was 115 today! Thanks for the video
Oh man, yeah I was in the front yard last week fixing a broken riser and it was a scorcher- nothing to do but power through it. My neighbor was talking with me and hiding behind a phone pole !😆The Phoenix area is at a different level though- that's brutal....and it's monsoon season ! I am glad it worked for you. I have done a few of these this year- I am waiting for a nice,open hole to make a PVC no-slip coupling video, so far everything has been so tight that this method has been my go-to. I hope you don't need to do it again any time soon! Thank you for the nice comment- stay cool!
Could a temp sensor be the reason for my coolant gauge rising up then back to normal ? It doesn’t actually overheat it just moves. ( I changed the thermostat twice already )
It certainly could be ! I think I remember mine was not reading correctly and fluctuating like that before I changed the sensor. As long as you don't have air in the system, then I think that you can depend on the thermostat NOT being the cause; it's new. I hope you get it squared away soon: I wish replacing the sensor was easier though.
WHAT ??? You fixed it with gorilla glue? That's fantastic! What version of gorilla glue did you use? Were you able to use the same plug and is it holding up to the pressure, even with the heater on? Congratulations and Thank you !
I purchased two Black Flag 5500 bug zappers at the same time, both came with a black (faint purple-colored when lit) bulb. On one of the zappers the bulb was broke when I opened the box, so I purchased a white bulb, which is much brighter. The white bulbs are slightly more expensive than the black bulbs. I put both zappers next to each other about one foot apart. The next morning, the mesh grid on the black bulb zapper was completely full of bugs, while the mesh grid on the white bulb zapper was only half full of bugs. Even though the black bulb is BARELY noticeable when lit, it attracts bugs much better than the white bulb. Also, don't use a leaf blower on an older zapper -- it blew the bugs off along with my mesh grid insulators.
That's really helpful to know! I never heard of a white bulb for those. Yeah- that black bulb is dim,but seems to do the trick. I use my air compressor to blow the bugs out,but, I'm certainly going to be careful. What do you think about the attractant : is it needed ? Thank you : )
Oh for sure I was not being very scientific; now that you mention it, I'm not actually sure any vitamin kind of stuff has actually made me feel better- I just wanted to try Geritol based all of the advertisements I saw when I was younger! : ) Thanks for the comment!
Hi, You are quite welcome! I wish I had better things to say about those products. I am going to try a different poly urethane this summer sometime. Thank you so much and all the best to you!
Good to know! It's a hassle when it leaks for sure. Do you know the exact size and type of that plug? Thanks for letting us know and I hope people in areas prone to freezing will take note! Have a great one !
I worked with a 73 year old man. He was a laborer and dumped about 150 full garage cans a day in Chicago. He took a shot every day of his life for 30 years
Those were the days !! Those metal cans got heavy ! 150 x 5 = 750 a week!~!! Did he ever say it made him feel better or do you think he just thought it helped him? I mean, it couldn't hurt, right? Thanks for the comment!
Ah the telephone coupling lol.. I use this as a last resort. My go to is a coupling and bell end. The bell end is like a coupling without a stop so you can slide it all the way back then slide forward jntoa coupling.
@noeeon9910 I'll bet that's true!! I'm also gonna keep bugging the PVC manufacturers to step up to the plate and make a usable no-stop PVC fitting!! Thanx again
I've got condensation in that control panel cover and I'm wondering how I should take it off to dry it out. Any ideas? And thanks for your tips ... I'm gonna put some silicone around my cover as well.
Hi, Yes ! You can certainly take the control panel assembly off- it is actually a good idea to do so just to check it from time to time. You can see the screws on either side (two on each side)of the long green housing that is basically the width of the heater . Remove those screws and keep them in a safe place. Hold that long green housing and lift up; it will lift up, pivot outward at the top and stay there with the bottom lip acting as a hinge( no need to take it off). From there you will see the control board is screwed to the green housing that is now leaning out. There should be a plastic shield that covers the control board; it's light weight plastic light a sheet that is screwed on. This shield is flimsy an is prone to disintegration! It is held in place with screws- take them off, stow them and examine the board. If the shield is badly damaged you might have to fabricate one to replace it. From here you might want to consider taking pictures of how things are wired and put together just in case a wire comes off etc. The outer bezel and buttons are a separate assembly from the control panel board and are connected to the board with a ribbon connector. You should be able to take the control panel board of and wipe it down gently with a soft cloth and maybe some rubbing alcohol (including the led display). You will be able to do the same with the inside of the clear plastic display window in the outer bezel- just gentle as possible so as not to scratch it. Put the control panel back on and that flimsy shield. BEFORE you go- look at the heater area behind that long green housing that is pivoted out. There is a silver metal ledge there- do you see and rat droppings? Rats love that ledge. If you see droppings just spend a few moments to clean that up and examine the wiring for rat gnaw damage ! :) No droppings? great , then just gently lift that long green housing up and out a bit then pivot back towards the heater- you will see how it goes back into place. Once you have re-secured it give the heater a try just to be sure. I sealed the outer bezel to the long green housing at the top and sides, not the bottom. I hope al that helps a bit- I bet you get it cleared up just fine! Thanks and all the best to you.
Hi Timothy~ Thanks for the comment! Sometimes there is just no clean, easy way to use a no-stop coupling and this can get up, and around stuff! I keep hoping the PVC manufacturers will make no-stop PVC couplings ...soon! Thanks again and all the best to you and yours!
I totally understand! Not sure what specific info you are looking for,but, no harm in fast forwarding. I hope you are doing well and thanks for the comment 🙂
@@dbsmaybemodsrepairs I am looking for the part that is in the title. Your removal surgery and removal experience. If you had some kind of skip to this point if you want to hear about that, it would be helpful.
Good day Sir. Thank goodness everything worked out for u in ur operation 🙏. Pls can u talk more on some of the symptoms u had more, and some test u ran to be diagnosed of it?
Hi Noredia, Thank you for the kind words! I wish for everyone going through to have at least, or better experience than myself. : ) I would like to type my response to you rather that redo the video and talk more- that would be waaaay tooo long then- maybe it already is! When I had an attack of "gallstone symptoms" it was a gripping pain in my upper torso and sometimes more localized towards my right side. Sometimes it would double me over and prevent me from doing anything, sometimes it would be much less severe. A number of times, I knew I was having an "attack" and was able to just keep going, sort of pretend it was not there. A few times I did throw up and was unable to do much for a while. The "attack" would gradually go away, sometimes faster than other times I guess it was a mixture of symptoms until the very end when I knew it was NOT going to subside and I HAD to get it taken care of by a medical personnel. That was my experience and I don't recommend doing what I did; get proper medical help ASAP and make sure to ask about the possibility of stones in your bile duct: you have to know one way or the other in my opinion. The only "test" I had was the ultra sounds and describing my symptoms to the Drs. My last Dr. was the one who knew I needed help right away and prescribed liver panel blood work which might have helped him decide I had a bile duct obstruction. I was not feeling as bad when I had my other consultations so the Drs. in those cases were not as concerned I guess. They recommended the surgical procedure(s) to increase my chances of never having a problem again which makes sense to me. I hope my response has been beneficial to you and thanks again!
As I looked at it, I believed that the clear plastic headlight assembly was designed to be sealed and water tight. I thought that it was just attached to the black hard plastic piece as a support frame. I assumed the leak had to be on the top ridge of the clear plastic piece where it was glued together at the factory. So, now I am wondering if you are correct and know better than me. Do I need to seal the area between the clear plastic headlight assembly and the black hard plastic support frame? Thanks for any info?
BTW- as long as it looks OK and works perfectly, that was all I was going for and that was absolutely achieved >>> zero issues after a year, several washings, and lots of rain.
I have the same model 2013 Yukon Denali (not-xl). If I get that water out, I'll put silicon anywhere I think could be leaking. Better than spending a fortune on a new headlight.
So you are operating as though the point of leak is between the plastic headlight and the black frame or support for the headlight. Therefore you are sealing the point of contact between the clear plastic and black support material, correct? I am trying to clear moisture from the headlight in cold and wet/snowy Reno in December. I have parked vehicle in garage and removed the primary bulb from the headlight assembly thinking that with the bulb out the moisture can evaporate through the hole the bulb was removed from. I am blowing heat from an electric heater onto the headlight. The condensation has left the plastic face of the headlight and run into a puddle of water at the bottom of the assembly. I am wondering how long it might take for what appears to be about 3 teaspoon fulls of water to evaporate. You considered taping the headlight area and surface of black support frame critical. Why? Just appearances sake so as not to have silicon on the edge of the headlight?
Hi Walter, Yes- masking to keep it mess to a minimum! and yes that seems to be where the leak was. Are you using a blow dryer or some kind of heater with a blower? 3 teaspoons is a bit of water! I think that a blow dryer directed right into that opening with enough gap to let moist air escape should do it pretty quickly. I hope it dries out fast and you get it sealed up !
I taped a tube to an old hair dryer and put the tube through the hole. Unfortunately, I turned it on high and melted the tube and apparently overheated the dryer and burned up the motor.
What!!! ??? That's crazy!! Sorry to hear that ,but, you were on the right track. I would just put the blow dryer on med fan, medium heat and put it about an inch or so away from the opening just to get a decent air exchange - I can see how a tube might simply not be able to be of sufficient diameter to get inside the opening AND handle hot air flow@@walterweatherly4204
That's a great idea and you are pretty fast there! :) I always have a problem with electrical tape getting sticky stuff where it shouldn't be ! LOL Thanks Jules!
I used it a lot when I was in a pinch and needed to yousey leatheman multitool to do quick electrical work. It's not stikey if you immediately remove the tape after use. Heatshrink is great, it's just I never had a heat gun on hand when I needed it as it was most often with the insulated screwdrivers in my toolbox.
Brilliant, i've done this w/my ratcheting driver & use thick leather gloves quite often for quick in-panel work. Take ur time, situational awareness, be wary of ground/neutral & leg-to-leg accidental strikes at all times
OH! YES! A great inclusion- wear some kind of insulating gloves while doing this kind of work: I just used my thick vinyl gloves that you see in my videos,but,I'm confident that they provide some protection while affording me some dexterity. Thanks for the great comment!
You can use a heat gun to soften the pvc pipes and then bend the pipes and hold into position and use wet rag to wipe pipes so they cool down and pipe will stay into position.
That's a Fantastic idea too- I think that I just wanted to get it done and making the video took more time than the actual deed of course. I think if someone wanted to make it very nice, using a heat gun would be the way to go if one is avaialable! Great suggestion for sure- thanx!
LOL! That would be me! I would burn the insulation off the wires like right now! Seriously though, like the heat gun suggestion, heating the conduits could be way to bend and turn the conduits as long as they don't get deformed at all: I just wanted to wedge them apart enough to get the conduits in the box sufficiently. Thanks for the comment and idea ! :)
Thanks for the comment I wish there were different lengths of the no stop coupling, like they have for copper, plus, some situations make using no-stop couplings more difficult! This is just faster, easier, and more dependable for me in many circumstances. Thanks again and all the best !! @Supersaiyanprime24
Fair enough! I suppose it was really more assembly tips I suppose; the instructions in the box cover the assembly pretty well. Thanks for the comment !🙂
@mikeyjohnston3796 - No offense taken at all-I think folks should absolutely share what/how they feel. I really appreciate your follow up reply for sure :) and , actually think it might help someone decide whether to watch the video fully, or at all (that's a good thing!). The chairs LOOK simple to assemble,but, if someone doesn't have a way to turn them upside down, like using the box as a stand like I did- I think they would need a helper don't you?
If you need to ever go back in there use an open end wrench and spin the sensor so you can access the release again. It’s the same one that my 2016 Jeep has in it and the dealer needs the last 8 characters of the vin to be certain of the correct style in there. That’s why I chose a dealer part. Nice helpful video.
Great suggestions! I HOPE I never have to do it again- my finger nails are just now growing back !! 😅😅 BTW..... How much was the sensor at your dealer? Thanks and all the best to you!
Well hopefully you got the idea in less than that :) some of the extra details might help some though.... I think I repeat myself tooooo much.. thanks for comment !
Hi Aniceth, Last year I hung mine from the house eaves and , same as you; not effective. This year, I hung both under a fig tree farther away- huge improvement, virtually no mosquitoes. I don't know about flies though as I turn ours off during the day. We have fencing between the front and back yards that seems to be a barrier so we get mosquitoes at the front porch still :( I am going to get another one for that area. Thanks for the comment and I hope you find something that works!! BTW that is a very fun name - Aniceth- I've never seen that before...
Maybe! ☺ If the chair is upside down, see if the plate is upside down or stuck on a fastener and unable to turn. . The plate assemble won't turn if one of more of the bolts extends into plates and they can't rotate freely. Definitely check and see if the fasteners are installed correctly.....
Thanks for the comment !🙂 For us- putting both in a shady area did the trick; we had nasty nasty tiger skeeters and now we don't ! I'm going to get another brand to compare them,maybe next year. The back yard is covered,but, the front porch still has a few tho nothing like before we got the black flag zappers
Thanks for the recommendation! My black flags have done a LOT better since I moved them to a shady location,but, I am ALWAYS ready to try ANYTHING to kill mosquitoes- BTW where did you get yours? Decent price? Thanks again !
Hi Again Desiree- that can be a little tricky for sure. It really helped having the chair upside down on that box when I did it; if you cannot do that then maybe you can turn it upside down and prop up the arms with something like a dining chair or have have a friend just help you hold the metal bottom assembly while you align the frame to those holes so you can put the screws in- it is kind of a pain- good luck: I know you can do it!
Update. Doing a great job killing mosquitoes. This model is really challenging to disassemble because of the two screws of the bottom then you have to twist the cage. * Caution using compressed air to remove mosquitoes. Will damage the light bulb.
RIGHT! I just put a mask on and blast them out with compressed air: I use my compressor and just run the hose and nozzle outside-but- it is so much better than trying to take it apart. I have not hung mine yet-but- have a new location with extension cord run already. Thanx for the update- that is really great news!!
@@dbsmaybemodsrepairs hi, I had the small one but I returned it and got the big one. Since a small one work pretty well I figured I'd get the bigger one for bigger coverage but was very concerned because of the black light. I guess the black light is probably more heavy duty attracting.
