Total shot in the dark. I found through Shazam that the song in the very beginning of the is Wendmi God only knows, but I literally can't find it ANYWHERE! I loved the Sax and it had sort of a drop beat. Could you please link it? Thank you, and great flying!
I’ve just learned that I’m supposed to glue my tires to the wheels… and it answers the question I’ve had as to why my tires keep flying off when I start to get up to any sort of speed… glad I’m just in the beginning stages of this hobby, haha
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Thanks for responding, been using mostly putty for tiles and it's been working pretty good, it's water based so it's easy to thin with water and smooth, after fully curing add water and go over it several times with a cloth so the excess gets removed and only the scratches/holes get filled.
Just subscribed to your channel Hearns and I absolutely love it. When I get settled down in my own new place I'll be a good patrion. I got the Alzrc 380 devil fast the Captain America edition.
wait... is that mo-stash real... its memorizing , im lost in it ,and the YOKOMO 1/10 Drift Package 2WD GR Supra Body (White) RTR Full Set looks like a great beginner platform i think i found my 1st drift RC
It is highly recommended and very beautiful kit...but for some one like me who is retired and on a limited income plus on hospice care it will never be in my stash because it is with out a doubt very expensive....my passion with ww2 kits is very expensive anymore.... thank you for the video
I like the manual, bagging and screw system; it works well and they've put thought into it by deliberately grouping screws that are similar in different bags so you don't accidentally use the wrong one. I also like that they give you exactly one extra of each type of screw so you have a spare in case you drop/lose one. The manual has a couple of minor errors in it, nothing severe, just things like a part being in a differently numbered bag or a part needed for a step not mentioned in the list of parts for that step. I kind of wish it was printed in better quality, kind of cheapens an otherwise premium product. Also wish they provided more detailed information in some areas but all that aside, it's still a great manual and pleasurable build. I had to position the shims on the front hubs in the alternative position (located top right of page) in order to prevent my front wheels rubbing on the turnbuckles. Finally got to drive mine. Smooth as silk and handles like a dream. A bit slow for my liking so I may look at a gearing change. I'm running a Hobbywing XR10 Justock GS3 ESC, 13.5 turn motor and 24t pinion. It has no top end speed, so may try a 10.5 motor and 30t pinion.
I used Tamiya tape to mask my 24 car for the second color and when I peeled it off, thick residue was everywhere. What did I do wrong? Was masking over Tamiya metallic blue acrylic thinned with Mr Color leveling thinner and dried for 2 days. Thanks BJ!
Hello Scotty! Without seeing or feeling the result, it could be a couple of issues. In my experience, the residue looking surface is not residue at all, but an imprint of the adhesive from the tape. The blue base may not have been fully cured when the tape was applied and the imprint of the tape has transferred to the blue. The second colour may have been too thick resulting in solvent penetrating the tape and softening the blue, again imprinting the tape shape to the base. Either way, the blue looks bumpy right? I have had success in heating the painted surface with a controlled hairdryer or heat gun. The heat will soften the paint and allow the surface to level out. Please try that and let me know how you go.
I have found 2 things can cause the problem you describe. As previously mentioned, it’s not actually tape adhesive residue, but an imprint the tape made on the paint because it wasn’t fully cured for whatever reason.. I’ve never tried heating the painted surface to smooth out the bumps. Instead, I fix that problem by loading the airbrush with some straight thinner-I use Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner, then spray very lightly over the bumpy surface. The thinner will dissolve the paint and let it settle down and dry smooth. To the best of my knowledge this only works with lacquer paints. This method will also fix a rough surface, usually caused by the paint starting to dry before it hits the model, because the airbrush was held too far away. This can also happen in corners like wing roots, where the paint can bounce off the fuselage and wings and settle in the corners as a “dust”. I’ve also had some paints that seem to react to the adhesive in Tamiya tape. I’ve had that problem with AK metallic paints. It doesn’t matter how long they have been left to dry, I have found that I simply cannot mask over them with Tamiya tape-it leaves a residue that is difficult to impossible to remove with marring the paint finish. The only work around I have found to this problem is to plan all my painting so the AK metallics are applied last so they never have to be masked over. HTH!
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I tried some wet sanding which showed it was the paint and not the tape residue. You were right. I went ahead and stripped everything off and starting over. This time I will spray the Villejo red first, mask that and then spray the Tamiya metallic blue so it won’t have to be masked at all. Stay tuned. Thanks!
@@57hound You are right on. It wasn’t residue at all. I had let the Tamiya metallic blue dry for 3 days before masking it. I stripped it completely and this time will spray the Villejo red first, let it cure for a few days, mask it and paint the blue last so as not to have to mask it. We’ll see. Thanks for your input.
Good afternoon Hearns RC , what upgrades if any will you be installing? And looking forward to the setup you put on it , as I think it’s setup more for carpet than dirt , and our tracks out where I’m at, run on loose dirt . I just received my new so 2.0. First 10th scale buggy , first yokomo so I’m quite excited.
I've been annoyed at my bottle for weeks now and as soon as you showed the closeup, I immediately saw what you were going to say. Brilliant. Hope the comments helps the algorithm get this video in front of more people.
Liquid mask can be used for camouflage as well but it can be difficult to remove if the surfaces are not flat. A combination of tape with liquid mask works best.
Great video. What is the shelf life once you've made the sprue goo? Will it harden inside the bottle over time? Will the brush clog up? Thanks in advance, Cheers, Steve
Thank you for watching! The shelf life depends on how well your bottle seals up. When you notice the sprue goo becoming thicker, just add more cement to dilute it. With this maintenance, and refeeding with plastic pellets from time to time, your sprue goo will live forever! Your brush will stay free as long as it is submerged in the sprue goo. If the brush needs a clean, just let it soak in some plastic cement until it frees up.
This was just what I needed. I was going to order a bottle of Golden Wetting Aid for wet-on-wet brush painting. But already had a big bottle of Vallejo Flow Improver for airbrushing Vallejo Model Air. I wondered if it was the same. A Google search found this video and all my questions were answered. Thanks!
The only thing that really bothers me with these Tamyia F4F/FM-1 kits is the single supercharger intercooler radiator. I'm not the final authority on the topic, but I'm sure that all the 1830 powered 'Cats had 2. "Identical to the F4F-4 but with four guns" is right. The cowling is correct, with two scoops at 4 and 8 o'clock. My HB F4F and the Eduard F4F kits do it right, but Tamyia has never attempted to fix it. It just bugs me. I have to cobble up two radiators. Also, the F4Fs didn't have a solid floor, hence the windows. You did great, though. Many thanks.
Ive just tried the green stuff world chrome and it looks good but rubs off really easily, not sure what im doing wrong but i see you were able to rub it with your thumb no problem. it just comes off like a dry powder leaving a dull silver colour
These chromes will rub off with handling and become a dull silver. I have had some success top coating with a water based clear such as Deluxe Materials Looks Like Glass but the lustre will drop a little.
Thank you for making these detailed vudeos, they're very helpful. I'd like to make a request for the next instalment if I may... Some tips on cutting out the body! This was the most difficult part of the build for me and as much as I tried, I didn't do the best job. On that note, can you please stock the replacement body shells, Z2-101S2L. I still haven't ran mine as I'm awaiting some electronics to arrive, a few questions come to mind though. The front suspension seems very stiff in comparison to the rear, is this normal? Lastly, my front wheels are rubbing on the turnbuckles, what would you recommend to remedy this?
This is an amazing video! I still have my Super Shot from when I got it around the late 80s. This video has cleared a lot up about the car and also the way controllers used to work. I actually didn’t realise that crystals etc, were not really used anymore, even though I have run some RC cars in the last decade. The controller in the video looks just like the one I had too, but I don’t think I still have it.
Cockpit haved many errors and fuselage too I needed a lot of putty to repare it but kit is good , trademark like academy ,revell,italeri,hobby boss..brings a lot of errors on it s manufacturing
Just purchased this kit and almost finished building it, just need to sort out the electronics and paint the body etc. Went together snoothly, easy build.
