Al, Bec, Eddie and Elke living and exploring the places we live. We hope you enjoy our experiences and modifications we have done to make our camping experiences more comfortable.
Tow Vehicle - 2012 Nissan Navara D40, Mates Rates Tools canopy with "Al's custom fitout" Camper Trailer - 2016 Market Direct Camper, Jackson Forward Fold, again with "Al's custom modifications"
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Thanks for the great video. You mention putting locks through the Maxtrax pins. However is there any protection against sinply undoing the nuts securing the bottom of the pins? Thinking if these could just be replaced with tamper proof nuts? Do you know what the thread size on the bottom of the pins is?
Awesome video, just 2 questions if you don't mind. What size fuse did you use from the DCDC to the second battery, looked like an in-line fuse between DCDC and anderson. Assuming it was 30-40ah? and can I ask why you ran the negative cable to the chassis under the bonnet and not the negative terminal on the primary battery itself?
That’s you for your comment. I can’t remember the size fuse, just what ever came in the kit. Pretty sure it’s a 30amp. From memory I connected the negative to that chassis earth strap to keep all the wires tidy, also I feel you get the best connection.
Hey mate, what piggyback fuse holder did you use for the 'on' wire? I have a 40 amp DCDC charger so just wondering what size fuses I would have to use in the piggy back fuse. I see a lot have a 20 amp capacity.
Hey mate, you can get the piggy back fuse from Supercheap / repco etc. there is not a requirement for a large amp fuse as the only current it should supply is a trigger from and ignition source to tell the charger to turn on.
Hey mate, cheers. Does your solar panel have a regulator on it? If so I’d bypass it and go to the DCDC charger. If not, I don’t know. Have you check all the connections to the panel etc?
Hey mate nice set up Have a look at my channel. I have just uploaded videos on my set up. You might get some ideas or be able to give me some ideas Cheers Out There Touring
It was some leftover stuff I found at work, I’m pretty sure it’s called Thermabrad 8, we used liquid nails, but probably should of used a glue that has some flex in it, and I do think it’s worth it.
Looking good. might be worth looking into what model dcdc40 you have, apparently you can adjust them from 15amp up to 50amp in the settings not sure if it’s a new thing or whether they all do it 👍
@@auscamperfam115 Hey mate, love the video. Just one question though, I've got a 2016 BT-50 GT and the seats are a 20amp fuse, my ignition wire is only 7.5. How did you get around this? Unsure if it's going to be the same amperage for both as your in-laws BT-50 might be different to mine. Cheers
Dc to dc charger destroyed my 2500$ battery (brand new 300ah lithium) and are unwilling to rectify the situation. They say it's not covered by there warranty. Buyer beware, stick to the well known brands that give a rats about there customers
Just found your video great step by step explanation of your installation. My first question is what does your alternator (amps) put out? And which kick ass dcdc charger did you install. Thanks Again
Thanks for watching. Not sure on the amps out put of the alternator, and the DCDC charger is their NEW lithium profile one with the Anderson style clips
At 10v the bms will shut down and capacity is 105ah there for total Ah is 105ah and not 120, this has been widely discussed across many platforms and they are deemed as a 105ah battery, itech are doing a shifty
@@joshuasears6080 that’s fine, the fridge cuts off at 11.5v, and I have been using 3 of them since April 2020 with no dramas. 105a/h in lithium is by far much better than the same in AGM
Hi, thank you for watching the video. I have insulated the canopy which is good and bad. Good because it does keep the temperature down from the sunshine. Bad because it does keep the heat in, but in saying that I don’t find it and issue. I have a thermometer mounted inside the canopy which the hottest I have seen it has been 45deg inside the canopy.
Watched your video with great interest, well put together and informative. Good explanation for people on smart alternator connections. I have a much better solution for you instead of using condute to protect your cable going to the back of the vehicle, simple use the best quality garden hose. 👌 it protects the cable so much better and is totally waterproof. Keep making videos and good luck.
@@auscamperfam115 so you didn't waste money buying lithium. But you did waste everyones time with a click bait title and then rambled on for 17 minutes. Great job!
@@auscamperfam115 the one that tells you the soc. soc can only be reset to 100% when battery is at stated100% battery volts. It should be over 14.3 v but check spec of battery.
Great vid old mate. 1 question thou as I have 1 as well but yet to find time to install it in my Paj. How, can you see the progress of the charge going into the batt if you are driving? as I have a Renogy MPPT controller with bluetooth app which allows me to see just how much solar is going into the batt whilst driving. Is the dc-dc charger just realy for the alt use?
Thanks for the comment Steve, you cannot see the progress while your driving without adding another meter or light. I’m pretty sure from memory there is a wire there that can activate a LED. I have thought of a Bluetooth battery monitor and then you could check on your phone.
I found myself cringing, repeatedly, throughout this video. You keep using amps and amp-hours interchangeably, as though they are the same thing...which they most certainly are not. Amps is a term used to help describe how much energy is being used at any given moment in time...a snapshot, if you will. Amp-hours is an expression of how much energy is stored in a battery, or how much power is used by a device, over time. I don't say this to be mean or anything, but the way you are using these terms makes it pretty clear that you don't fully understand them...and that's sort of dangerous, unless you have it straight in your head and you're just not conveying it very well.
Great set up and video. I have just installed 2x ltechworld lithium in my caravan, new lithium starter battery in the Jeep, all working great.weight saving is great.
That voltage drop issue you’re seeing is most likely due to incorrect sized cable. So as the current increases the voltage drops. But check what the voltage is at the crank battery
Hi @marzy2423, I thought the cable would be the problem to, hence why I changed it all. Still didn’t change, it turns out that the BMS in the battery pushes back on the Enerdrive when it have had enough charge, then the Enerdrive reduces the amps supply.
The BMS in the battery doesn’t do that, once the charger sees that the litho battery is at 13.5v it will hold that voltage and reduce the current until it drops down to something like 3 or 2 amps and then it determines the battery is full at this point and stops charging. (I’d have to look up the charger for exact specs on this) But this doesn’t affected the voltage coming into the charger. Notice how the voltage drops gradually, that’s because the enerdrive charger gradually increases the current. What gauge cable are you running from your alternator? 4-5M cable run (assuming you’re grounded to your chassis and not running a neg cable back to your crank battery), 40+ amps from that charger you should have at least 8awg.
@@marzy2423 i have 6B&S twin running from the start, the neg grounded to the chassis. I pulled the battery right down as seen in the vid, and since then I have not seen this occur again.
good work . plenty of detail . subscribed, hope other vids are as comprehensive .. don't have kings or itech, so didn't bother me what way it went (meant nicely not derogatory)
