I am so upset crying as I even as I type this. because I have a statue that is so sentimental to me. That was damaged by my dog and chips. I cannot find a statue like this, no matter how hard I try to find one . I’ am trying to find a way to repair my statue I am googling all of the social media to find a company that could repair my statue of the chips in it because my statue is antique. I came across this video. I’m trying to find a way to fix it . 😓
Very informative. I also totally agree regarding the final wax, which I also always do after Shellac. The key word is that it makes it look more natural. I.e. it looks like wood and not plastic, as a few good coats of shellac will result in high gloss, artificial looking sheen, which can actually drown out the natural beauty of the timber.
I am french polishing a sideboard that i bought 40 years ago. This is my second attempt at this, but over years i have stored plants on it and it has had some water damage. I am using Rustins french polish. My question is , can i use this straight from the bottle or do i need to dilute with meths?
Just watched the repolishing video followed by the veneer repair. Very informative and useful to me as I'm not so good with the polishing and colouring aspect of restoration. When I patch veneers I make good use of my disc sander to get a good fit but do like your idea with the blade to trim and get the best fit. I don't use the contact adhesives, I prefer my good old glue pot and pearl glue, albeit it means a clamp or tape overnight to dry. Thanks for the all the tips.
a few suggestions 1) initial proper surface cleaning of the stone 2) reducing of the discolouration of the fractures 3) a slower curing epoxy 4) a fraction of epoxy 5) excess adhesive removal with solvent 6) absolutely no sanding of the surface 7) gapfilling of the losses with a softer filler 8) leveling of the filler with a soft tool that does not damage original surface 9) inpainting with reversible colours 10) protective coating with reversible laquer
Be wary of car finishes on wood finishes, some can contain silicon, which if it gets into the wood grains/fibre can wreck havoc on future refinishing with some finishes..
As a retired teacher I absolutely love the way you teach and demonstrate what to do. I thoroughly enjoyed watching this really informational video and learnt a lot. I am looking to repair some oak veneer on the side panel of an art nouveau dressing chest of drawers so still at the research stage.
Saw this after I tried doing mine. Can see where issues I had came from especially the different hardness of the new piece. On the older piece the pores are not very visible but the new piece took up the stain and made them stand out too much. Still for a 1st attempt I'm quite pleased just to give it a go. I'm also adding depth to the wardrobe making the inserted piece a feature... pillar like. Finally cutting the double with unit in half so that after 7 years and 2 houses we can finally get it up the stairs. I'll use dowels to locate the two halves and some brass plates to lock it in. The top piece is even more complicated than the one there so again a feature will be added to hide the join in plain sight !
Hi Ali’s just found you on RU-vid and I am going to enjoy the viewings !! I have a question for you ! Y are you not on salvage hunters anymore used to love watching your restoration .
Thanks Alex, your video took a little of the mystery of veneers and their repair away and I’ve now been able to patch repair a veneer to the top of a small antique chest of drawers that’s been irritating me for twenty something years. I won’t say I’ve done as a good a job as a professional would do but the chest does look a whole lot better to me than it did before. Many Thanks Paul in Cyprus.
Hi Alex do you know if it's possible to have vintage Silver-plated items cleaned then sprayed with a coating to stop the tarnish reappearing ? I used to work in a jewellers and can remember selling tarnish resistant Silver plate 😊hope you reply xx
how did you get an even french polish along the lip. I am having trouble getting good coverage and also some blotchiness when my rubber changes direction. To go along the one raised lip edge is against the grain,,,,any tips or video shots
Eleven minutes of fluff. Are you keeping trade secrets and just showing off and advertising what you have in the shop? Usually, when you post "restoration", you actually show the restoration process. Just saying.
Appreciate your humble way of being informative making sure to include all the very necessary details and tips without talking to your audience as though they were a bunch of dummies or rattling on with unnecessary verbiage. I respect what you do and how you deliver the info. Diamond in the rough.
Shellac is a repair material, it was never used in industry as a proprietary finish. Only on home projects in a basement or little workshop. It is hopelessly stuck in that muck. Until the advent of spray equipment sometime about 1917 everything was brushed. Alcohol will dissolve organics, and all the gum finishes. Piano people are also stuck there. Well---alcohol cuts it, it must be = incorrect. Guitars were finished with violin varnish. like Damar, and Sandrac, and linseed oil. just like fiddles!, only the SB on old pianos were finished with violin varnish the rest of it case etc, was colophony = cheaper. Come on now! you actually think guitars were once french polished shellac? Probably you say, your not sure.???. It is truly lost knowledge, = bummer. We use a lot of shellac, about 10 pounds a year. Check out our U-tube 33B Chickering piano restoration using French polish/colloidal silica, it is the only way I could repair an original 1867 finish which was not shellac.
Many thanks for an excellent video and instruction. Very professional in every respect! I have a mahogany hall table which has become very faded by the sun and the colour bears no resemblance to mahogany. I would like to restore the finish and get the colour back. Not having much experience, do I start with a light stain and gradually work to a darker stain until I have the what I think is the right colour?
I have a question also. I make peppergrinders and need a foodbsafe but durable finish. What do you recommend? Is ethanol better to use than denatured alcohol? Can I mix it with shellac flakes and carnauba wax?? Thanks again Jeff
Hi Alex, here in Italy I bought a house in the mountains with many antique furniture, so I am trying to do restoration myself and I am really learning a lot with your videos
2 questions compared to this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MBAlEUHshKU.html 1) Does the glue you are using tend to yellow over time? Mabye that doesn't matter since the material itself is sort of yellowish itself? 2) In the other video is being said that the expoxy cannot be ground because the base material is, obivously, much softer. Your tray might just be marble, but the grinding action cannot be employed for alabaster?
yes 5 min araldite or most epoxies yellow over time, less light or elevated temperature the slower the deterioration. Any epoxy penetrating the surface will discolour in the future
