Sorry gang, here are the problems: cell core PVC on exhaust (HUGE mistake: failure leads to CO poisoning), exhaust and intake are too close (combustion gas can enter the intake and degrade boiler fan), oversize vent (can lead excessive draft and ignition failure), there are more problems... this would miserably fail inspection where I live... don't believe me: look it up. These are dangerous errors.
For people living in cold climates this job is not complete. Snow will block those vents and cause the furnace to not fire up. Can you advise on how to properly add extensions on the exterior? Thanks!
Good job, but there is one issue, combustion air pipe shouldn't be on the above Gas valve of furnace, The gas valve coil will burnt in few years due to condensation on gas valve. Either change the vent termination location from the middle of furnace or put drain trap with pvc pipe. There is special trap fitting available at carrier/ totaline.
Cant have the thing sticking out like a happy pecker.. my ass would shin myself every damn time i walked by it.. or take it out with the mower.. im thinking of dropping the intake dowm then running the exhaust up another 5 feet to clear a small shed they stuck it behind.. i know people have a problem when they put too small of a screen on em and freezing up solid in the winter, but wonder if you stay within the spec limit of the hvac system if running them up with a little 90 pointing down or out would cause more water to run back down the line. My thoughts is if so then with such a small slope on em that water will end up sitting in the pipe a little and cause more buildup on the end.. hell i dunno, might just have to live with giving the house a little pecker i can avoid once i move that old shed.. gotta move it anyway because is only 2" from the end of the thing and i know thats not good.. anything blowing or sucking ive learned you gotta give em their room if you want em to keep on blowing and sucking, otherwise "my neck is tired" or "my jaw and throat hurts". So just give em their room and unless something else breaks down she'll still do the deed..
Great video. Thank you. I am looking for a video that might answer a question I have. Can a vent have an elbow that drops down right before exiting the sidewall or does it need to be continually sloped up?
Exhaust shouldn't slope down at all. It builds up heat the closer it is to the furnace and can cause pvc pipe/cement failure. Intake should be boosted up and sloped down. You don't want extra moisture in your unit.
@@jaysonthomas630 My pvc exhaust sticks out the side of my house straight, but the installer put a 45 degree elbow facing down. No good? If no, I'll cut it off and how bout putting a screen & coupler like this video shows on the end?
I a DIY guy on my 95% furnace. You mention 1/4” slope per foot, dumb question I’m sure, but is the slope toward the inside and condensate drains to condensate tank/pump or drain to outside? Long question, sorry. Like video and thanks much, hal
@@Devilsfan-pd8ovThat’s not entirely true. Water pipes don’t have to be pitched. And to answer the question, the pitch is towards the furnace, not towards the outside.
@@Devilsfan-pd8ov When I say water pipes, I’m talking about supply lines, which don’t need to be pitched. What is a 3/4” condensation pipe? I’ve never heard of that. Edit: You mean the drain? Of course the drain has to be pitched.
Regular pvc. The intake doesn’t have to pitch back to the furnace, you just do that so it’s uniform with the exhaust. The exhaust does have to be pitched back to the furnace because of condensation. The water runs back into a trap inside the furnace and is expelled out the side at the bottom. You can’t pitch it towards the outside because the water would freeze at the end of the pipe and create an ice dam.
@@russelllangworthy8855 upside pipe only if its over total length specs on the furnace installation manual. Valve on intake to control O2 (oxygen) level on combustion. Dont use dissimilar material when secure pipes especially metal will cut pipe while vibrating. Dissimilar material never mean to touch each other will rust each other if metal. Its a electrical and mechanical code violation
@@hangngoaigiare You’re speaking a foreign language here. I’ve been an HVAC installer for 44 years and have never heard what you’re talking about. What’s an upside pipe? You don’t need to control the amount of oxygen for combustion air. You can leave the door off the furnace permanently and it will run fine. You don’t have to worry about dissimilar metals when venting because you use PVC.
This is one of several termination options in most installation manuals, as long as the exhaust extends 6” passed the intake they can be side by side. I personally turn the intake down like shown and raise the exhaust about 18” above and keep both above snow line for the area.
Also interested in this question. Having a problem with a 13 ft run to the exterior wall using 2-in PVC. Getting a three blink code intermittently sometimes I run fine depending on how the wind blows outside on a given day.
Its called a concentric vent yes it is normal, the exhaust y's into the pipe and travels along the outside of rhe pipe and is shot downwards at the top and the intake is on the inside and gets sucked in the top of the pipe.
Sound like you are a a HVAC professional. I was wondering if you can help me. I have someone wanting to sell me something I don't think I need. Earlier this year I extended my 2 inch id gas heater exhaust pipe out to 35 feet it was 25 feet. I did this to vent the fumes away from where we sit on the deck. I made a mistake when extending it because I did not use enough support straps and it developed a low spot in the pvc pipe as a result it developed condensation that got stuck in that low spot and it probably froze or had water built up, causing my furnace to overheat. I fixed the slope , no low spots the water drained out right now and the slope is right. I think I am good, but the Hvac Company told me that my 2 inch intake and output should not be placed under deck and I needed to increase 2 inch Id pipe to a 3d ID pipe. . Do you know if they are telling me the truth when they say it should not be under the deck and that I need a 3 inch pipe to go 35 feet. I think since I fixed the slope issue that I might be good with the 2 inch id ran 35 feet?
@@davidhazen2394 You should NOT be running anything under a deck and why do you need 25ft or more of pipe? Who ever install your furnace must have looked for a space closer to a venting point or don't install it at all
Sound like you are a a HVAC professional. I was wondering if you can help me. I have someone wanting to sell me something I don't think I need. Earlier this year I extended my 2 inch id gas heater exhaust pipe out to 35 feet it was 25 feet. I did this to vent the fumes away from where we sit on the deck. I made a mistake when extending it because I did not use enough support straps and it developed a low spot in the pvc pipe as a result it developed condensation that got stuck in that low spot and it probably froze or had water built up, causing my furnace to overheat. I fixed the slope , no low spots the water drained out right now and the slope is right. I think I am good, but the Hvac Company told me that my 2 inch intake and output should not be placed under deck and I needed to increase 2 inch Id pipe to a 3d ID pipe. . Do you know if they are telling me the truth when they say it should not be under the deck and that I need a 3 inch pipe to go 35 feet. I think since I fixed the slope issue that I might be good with the 2 inch id ran 35 feet?
Check your furnace book for the length recommend and size, and you should insulate both pipes under your deck. Pipe slope should be 1/4” per foot back to the furnace 👍
Clearly, you are a professional. Please post more videos for us beginners. I'd like to see a furnace replacement from draft assisted to condensing with a review of options and recommendations. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have a question for you. My house was built 5 years ago just like the one in your video and I’m wondering if I can extend both vent pipes upwards about one foot high cause I get a lot of snow and snow drift and my furnace turns off about three times per winter due to the snow and snow drift. Can it be extended upwards without causing any problems with the furnace. The pipes are 2 1/2 both all the way out.
Yes you can. Where I live and work they always want the pipes 12" above grade just for that reason. Just make sure you use long sweep elbows and keep the distance between intake and exhaust the same as they where.
Outside of the house is flat out wrong and that is not a concentric vent.. I advise you to look it up so you know what it is.. That should not pass an inspection for a few reasons especially by me at least.. Clamps to high at the furnace for the vents.. 18in from top of furnace Max.. Should at min be at the start of the plenum or on the coil..you will be fine screwing into the coil if you don't use 4in screws.. Should not need to explain which exact screws to use because it's common sense..something screams your a plumber which is why you don't know these things and are using plumber knowledge on furnace venting.. Which is fine cause certain things plumbers dont ever have to think about because they are normally only used to dealing with water and air 99.9 %of the time.. .intake and exhaust must be 2 ft from each other outside where they terminate when not using a concentric kits and 4ft from windows (exhaust )..also depending where u live and receive snow.. Which is a vast majority of places.. Venting must be 18in to 2ft from the roof line or ground because of snow drifts can block them...clearances needed are in the installation booklet and are pretty much standard across all brands.. Even though your township might allow closer clearances the manufacturers booklets won't..so if some accident did occur and u followed township ordinances only and not the booklet from the manufacturer don't expect to sue the manufacturer cause they will see it and you are out of luck if Nana does of asphyxiation from carbon monoxide...that is why manufacturers clearances must be followed and not township because they go beyond township ordinances..you are going to suck exhaust back in through the intake the way it is..common sense says high pressure will be attracted towards lower pressure..nuff said..concentric means a pipe inside of a pipe that share a center my man..Concentric kits only use one hole with one pipe that goes through the wall not 2..thats the point of the kit.. There is a pipe inside of a pipe and that's how it terminates outside.. You still run 2 pipes until you get to the wall you are going through..and your slips or drives you used looks like dog turds...dont take it personal
Wow i thought vents looked good only thing I would mention up here in the north would have kept them at least 24” above grade for snow not sure where this is.
Yeah, like a David Spade that has brain damage from breathing carbon monoxide poison gas for about 20 years, I don't like the looks of those two pipes being so close, looks like the intake could easily suck in the exhaust fumes.
What's the nest way to level pipes out the wall especially since you have the pitch ? Doesnt make sense unless you are coming out completely level and straight with out pitch.
were is the drain trap, Or don't u have very cool weather to make condensation. Or r u putting it in the furnace. I was told to put one in, so the water doesn't get to the furnace. Just saying....???
Is that why the furnace people told me to put 1 in. So it doesn't get to the furnace, to save wear and tear on it. It will also remove it so it doesn't restrict the intake, that could cause it to kick out. Just saying... They do it for a living, I don't.....