@gregmiller5907 I made some further videos on it, but more to show the progress rather than as a how to. I used a shrinking disk on an angle grinder for the most part, it was a really great tool for this and there's some good tutorials on yt

@@tortron thank you, ill look for them

@gregmiller5907 if you have access to an oxygen acetylene torch, they are the preferred method for the pros (but have a big room for mistakes, my truck was training for the apprentice apparently and the roof had been torched and warped and hidden under 2 inches of bondo). I used mostly a 9" grinder with the large shrinking disk, and then a low crown dolly to bash the low points up, it took maybe a dozen passes to get it to a point to tidy it up with a hammer and dolly and reshape the body lines, and maybe another pass or two with the disk.

@@tortron thank you i do have access, i was just wondering if 150 bucks for disk was actually worth it as Im not a body man and want 2 repair it myself

@@proscentgifts you will also get the same code if the MAF or air intake sensor is unplugged or loose

?

"dynatek ignition coils DC2-1" 1.5 ohm. You will need to make spark plug leads, I used the dynatek 8mm suppressed lead kit, but you can use which ever you like. (I had on #3 a dead resistor pill inside the spark plug cap, so chose to fully replace them all)

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Yes it burns out the old oil and carbon buildup

Yes it has a small bottle of MAP gas but you can use propane. You could also put the pipe on a propane burner and force air into the pipe with a hair dryer or air compressor

This is my mother's bike, she has moved to another country, so it was in storage. I needed to remove th3 carburettors as they had been sprayed with some kind of oil for storage, which had gone hard and made it so the throttles were not all opening correctly, also the float bowl rubber gaskets had dried out and were leaking. You cannot get original coils for this bike any more, I replaced them with dynatek mini coils which are small enough to fit under the cowl like the original, they also have the same ohm rating. They are good, I found the original coils had broken down and giving trouble at idle, cold #3 exhaust pipe. Yes this bike is still limited, I think I will derestrict it, you can remove the plug in the intake snorkel and replace the jets, there is some information on this online. What is the issue with yours? I have really stripped this bike down to get it ready for the road, so am familiar with a lot of the systems

There's propper ways to test them with pressure gauges and a rig. You can find the original training videos on RU-vid for this pump for example. The problem is that there's a lot of parts with fine tolerances that are pretty difficult to test without putting the pump in a test rig, or stripping it down and measuring with some precision tools.

@@tortron ok that's what I thought I appreciate the wisdom

No, it's in fairly nice original condition, but needed some work to bring it out of storage. Carb rebuild and new coils

Doesn't sound like much of an immobiliser ifnyou can just pull the fuse haha. In these the immobiliser is built into the ecu, I'm not aware of any easy way to bypass it (other things you can program the immobiliser out for example, but there's no available software for Hyundai)

@tortron there's literally a immobilizer fuse in the fuse box lol so figured I'd snatch it out see what p Happens

@diddymonster718 which fuse box under dash or engone bay? And it says immobiliser on it?

@tortron yea I can't post a Pic on here wish I could but it says immobilizer

@diddymonster718 what fuses is that fuse next to. I have not seen that on the diagrams, il check what I think it might be. Again though, the immobilizer is part of the ecu, if there is a fuse for the immobilizer, pulling it would make it fail in the don't start position, if you could bypass it with a fuse they would be the most stolen car

Yes, sometimes that's what's happens as well, early on, before it gets bad enough to make the ecu limp mode. There is also a seperate issue of wastegate rattle that is "fixed" with an add on spring clip,

Where are you based if you could sort it for me?

I’m having the same issue right now. Did you ever figure it out

@@israelnavarro7021 I just went to mechanic and changed watergate actuator. It was fine after this. What engine have you got?

@@Tp0102 I inspected it yesterday and the actuator is broken as well just like the video. I have the 1.4. Did you go oem or after market

I don't have the pgo anymore, but you can probably go for something along the lines of a 24mm-30mm carb, it would respond well to a direct pull pumper carb. Just have a look around for what single cylinder 125-200cc dirt bikes tend to use. It will make it a bit more responsive, but you don't really gain any more power. Bigger isn't always better though

​@@tortrona pwk from amazon should be good?

@@overdriver207 they are popular choices

From what I understand, the immobiliser is in the ecu. So it's not easy to bypass. Possibly if you knew what hyundai used to code them you could write the security out (like you can do in holden), but no one has really done it from what I can tell. You may have to get a replacement key, ring and possibly the ecu from a wrecked car

Usually it's the wastegate actuator arm sticking at that pivot. If you remove it. Clean it and If needed polish the surfaces, then use very high temperature grease on it, like Nickle antiseize or vw hot bolt paste. You may need to then clear the code and clear the adaptations for it

I wouldn't run it inside a building, or fill the cleaner with gasoline but it's pretty handy for cleaning some carb parts or greasy stuff when in a separate container

I think that's the same problem, how you describe the lights is what I meant to say I think (but it's been a while) it won't hurt it anyway

Sorry, I sold this truck about 10 years ago. Mine had a brass data plate on the firewall above the gearbox, for the cab. I think you will find a chassis plate behind the engine on the frame. It will be buried in old.oil and dirt, but is possibly corroded as they were made of tin on other British vehicles inhave seen

@tortron ok..thanks for replying.. Yes..there is a brass plate tagged..inside infront of gear lever....an another..plate tagged on engine room at steering column area.....I am just trying to find...the actual chassis number Stamped on the chassis...do you know of any one..who can help??....thanks again for replying

@rishiojar3631 I think the manual I had showed it. You can find th4 later model manual online I think, it will probably be in the same locations

@tortron ok...thanks What's...the...th4... As you mention??

That's pretty good going. This one just had a slight leak on the outer seal. When the parts wear it's a little more involved

Ours are still going, about 7 years old now

Turns out the tank is held together with paint and dreams. I have a purple one that's much nicer

Road bikes too!

But it also spins

You can try spraying starter fluid/ether down the carbs while cranking to see if it will fire. If it does then there must be spark and it's a fuel issue. If not, pull the plugs and see if they spark outside the engine. Then go from there. I can't think of any common electrical issues for these off the top of my head. I guess you bought it not running?

@tortron yeh I bought it not running ..I replaced the spark plugs and battery already..what would it be if it was a fuel issue?..petcock or fuel lines?..it's got me stumped..I'll keep going at it see how it goes thanks for your help with this bro

@@baznetana7336 if fuel, it could be that the petcock is full of old fuel or corrosion (although the usual issue with these is that the petcock needs a rekit I have done on all of them I have had)., there's a little filter on the petcock inside the tank that could be blocked. You can check fuel is getting to the carbs by opening up the drain screws on the fuel bowls. If you crank it for a while then pull the sparkplugs (difficult I know, you can set up a remote fuel tank for this) are they wet? If you have fuel and spark it could be compression, tho it should cough on one cylinder usually. Or timing, but there's not much you can mess up with that. Could be that the coils have failed, that's something that happens on old bikes. Check you are getting spark at the plugs and fuel in thr carbs

@tortron thanks bro 🙏 will check these and let you know how I get on appreciate it bro 👍

This one came to me like that, but yeah take the restrictor in the variator out, different variator weights, and some have a speed sensor in the transmission case that you can unplug

Yes, plug the other wires back together like normal

I don't think I want to sell one just yet as I have enough parts to put together another 2 or 3 bikes

@@tortron oh ok ..I'd pay good money for it ..up to you thanks

@@davidcole9997 there's a guy on drademe parting out a ds80. Have a look at its headlight

I have a couple of headlight housings, but I think only 1 lens, which is a little melted from a high output bulb. Some of the other 80s suzukis have almost the same headlight, I remember one having an extra mount on it, but otherwise it looked identical

Would you sell one ? I'm in nz

I just can not find one anywhere

No. Does the immobiliser light come up at all when the key is switched on? If not it could be an ecu main power issue

Is it a 4stroke or 2 stroke? You can get much more out of a 2stroke, the 4 strokes are just about giving all they have as is

replace the CDI

For the getz it is a common issue that the connector plug for the antenna causes too much resistance, this is fixed by bypassing the plug and soldering the wires together directly. For you, you may need to do some further diagnostics, is the imobilizer key light staying on the dash or flashing? . Check out jimthecarguy he has a video on hyundai accent crank no start that can help you check a few things. Like if you are getting spark and fuel, you may need a crankshaft position sensor (another common thing to fail)