I have had problems with Nikon first with the D7000 back focus and then with the D600!! The sensor is always dirty and the shutter is broken!! Enough Nikon switched to the Sony A7III in 2018 and now in 2024 to the Sony A7IV!! ! Sony has always saved Nikon anyway, now it did it with the Z9 sensor (SONY)
Thank you for sharing your experience! It's always helpful to hear from fellow photographers about their journeys with different brands. Your insights might help others make informed decisions!
There are actually 2 green pixels and one red and one blue per 4x4 superpixel. The image is mono and a bayer coordinate layer is saved separately and applied to the raw data to produce colour, by telling us which pixel is which colour. Jpeg is a bitmap with the colour data embedded. The pure pixel data is combined and you can get bleed over between pixels. Jpeg compression simply describes the locations of pixels with similar values. The higher the threshold of similarity the smaller the file size. This is lossy compression. That's why jpeg is used in displays being faster and more efficient as less pixel values are being used. Tgats why there's a restricted number grey levels. There are in fact lossless compression algorithms too, but the gist of it is that jpegs can't save as much data.
That is a bit Tricky, ‘assuming’ your DoF is large enough to accommodate all the people in the group, basic Eye detection will work fine. Just start the focusing mode (which ever you pick) on the person you want to be the sharpest. And you good.. BUT the DoF has to be large enough to accommodate everyone, otherwise people at the edges of the DoF will be blurry.
Great Video and well explained. Only had the Z8 for 10 days so far and it is a beast after using the D850. I am going to have to make up a spreadsheet to enter all of these settings there are so many☺ Like someone else said the recall settings is a good one. Looking forward to your video on it.
Don't look that good to me. First I have to say I'm still shooting a D810 & might get a Z8 just not to take the loss on my F lenses. I wouldn't of even tried single point for this type of shooting. I'm guessing you are using the newest firmware version, Yes? Anyway, it looks like it really doesn't have true subject detection if your holding the (BACK BUTTON AF or) continuously down from the time it acquire's the face. If it did , it would of stayed with her. I watch a really lot of vids showing this & makes me think that Nikon's allithogram keeps it continuously hunting & jumps off subject looking for something else to acquire rather than staying locked on like Sony & Canon's AF does. Just a guess. Others are saying since the Z9 5.0 or 5.1 or whatever it is up to, the AF has improved a lot. Doesn't look it here. Good luck.
@@Living_The_Dad_Life Sure but, other brands like Sony, Canon & OM Systems just work without the extra effort. I wonder if it gets so easy, it would get kind of boring? Haha, would give you more time to concentrate on the art side of it! Nikon’s color are some of the best thow.
Great to see alternative ways to set up the custom controls. For quick access the the custom control (shooting) menu, i set this up as an option in the Customise "i" menu. I find it easier to try different setups when out shooting. Looking forward to other tips. Subscribed 👍
Hey bud, just came across your video. A couple solutions here would solve your problem. I HEAVILY rely on 3d tracking as my main focus method with a couple of tweaks. I TURN OFF subject detection completely so that the AF box only tracks exactly what I tell it to. Then I have my AF ON button tied to eye AF and only engage when I need it, similar to how Sony does it. I also use LFN1 (or button of your choice) to engage starlight mode in one tap for more sensitive focus in low light. this works for me 99% of the time. The biggest key here is switching off subject detection as I’ve noticed that the eye auto focus can be extremely aggressive and unpredictable in the z8/z9, yet the 3D auto focus mode in itself is quite reliable. I hope this helps, and happy shooting! Wedding photographer btw if you are curious.
That's a very interesting approach from the sound of it and something I will try. Just to double check, you use 3d tracking without subject detect and shoot like this with with shutter release half press? ... and you then set the override this with eye detect set to BBF, but how/what exactly do you mean? I mean how do you set the BBF to use an AF area with subject detect tracking and 3d without? I though you could only have subject detect on/off globally.
@@vickosis Great question, and yes you understand my setup exactly. On the z8(and assuming z9), there is a 'recall shooting options' setting under the 'custom controls (shooting)' menu. From there you can set up the af-on button and scroll through the options to choose this. Then you can locally choose 3d tracking and add subject detection in the sub menu. For some reason the z6iii does not have this menu option, so it may only appear in the higher ends, but I am grateful to see this in the z8 as I have been told that this is how Sony works. This has been the perfect combination of reliability and control for me, since subject detection off allows me to place the focus point exactly where I want and track without having the camera aggressively jump around looking for an eye, but when I do want to lock on to an eye its simply a button press & hold away.
@@jhendex thanks, and yes I've just seen a post on the nikon fb group about how the recall shooting option isn't awailable on the z6iii nor the Zf :( This is unfortunate as it very much sounds like something I want to try. Fingers crossed for Nikon pushing this via firmware to the other 3rd generation cameras at some point 🤞
You might want to try the following 1. Auto area af with human as subject 2. Lock on af set to delay (4) with movement on Erratic 3. Setup af toggle to switch to af wide L Incase camera gets distracted by too many faces
I would reset the focus point and chose the shot before pressing the shutter when you about to see the face. Face is the most important. Practice is still important you want the camera to be the extension of you. The 85 1.2 is a little slower than the 70-200mm plus the aperture is a little too wide open. The 85 1.2 is more of a portrait prime lens, it's fantastic. I shoot a lot of floor dances and some gymnastics in the past and noticed that prime lenses under 135mm or 200 to be slower focusing. Also I have notice when doing team sports like hockey dynamic is better because you have a lot of people in the shot. I tried Sony and Canon and I have the same keeper rate at the end of the day. I like the Z9 because you can crop and give the focus system some breathing room to focus. Canon flagships, we have to shoot tight, and can't crop much because they're only 25 megapixels.
my d7500 still gets the call weekly and I also still shoot my sony a9 v1 both are tools for different jobs the a9 focuses way faster for birds in flight and many other places I need faster focus..
Sir, I am afraid the jump to Mirrorless is not one that I'll be taking anytime soon. I have a range of Nikons from 1962 to my trusty DSLR (D850) - all F bayonet mounts, & whilst the Z converter is available, I find it impractical - given that the wide range of optics I possess easily outweigh any of the Z bodies; furthermore, the Z6 III is about to launch (with the fourth iteration already in pre-production); that so many variants are available, methinks, does not bode well; of course, this is a commercial manoeuvre on Nippon Kogaku's part, but it is coming to a point whereby, aty least two upgraded models per year are being issued - & that's ridiculous. The mark of a decent photographer is not necessarily the equipment used, but rather the aptitude & skill set of that image-taker, & frankly, if I want a camera that makes all the decisions for me, I'll purchase a point & shoot unit. Don't misunderstand me, I love my Nikons - primarily because they're built like tanks - you can drop them in the mud & they'll still perform, but this nonsense about, "Oh, it's too heavy to carry all day long.." is a feeble raison detre - modern photographers are becoming wimps, & professionals who gripe about the gear they're carrying need to rationalise what they're using for every, particular shoot....I in no way disregard technological innovations, but I do consider that a balance be struck - to limit this almost obsessive requirement to constantly 'upgrade' everything - the latest Nikon is not going to make you a better photographer (but the company would like to make you think that it will)....huge consumerist error.
bullshit bro stop trying to justify nothing, I can get 900% more keepers with my old 2017 sony a9 then you can ever get on baseball football birds in flight and anything moving then you can dream of with your gear, I shot Nikon for over 24 years then of course tried the nikon junk mirrorless, only now has nikon tried to get some focus squared away but they still fail compared to sony.. Now ACTUALLY go to any camera store yes get off your ass and take a DRIVE grab a sony in store put on a lens and stand in the doorway and do a few test shots.. Make sure to bring your old junk to trade in as you'll be leaving with a new mirrorless setup. Do you still drive a horse and buggy because it was how it was done back in the day and took more skill? do you still shit out in the yard in a outhouse because that is how it was done back in the day?
I hear you, I really do. I go all the way back to the Nikon F2. And I have had nearly every Film and DSLR along the way (mostly :) ). If you are happy where you are at, I am happy for you. My point is that there are many good reasons to update to mirrorless.
First of all, all Sony, Nikon & Canon cameras will ultimately lock on the background in this situation. The difference between brands of these 3 doesn't matter for the current gen of cameras. They are basically same. There's no use complaining about any of these 3. The background is just too busy & contrasty & also brighter when compared to the subject, which is small and not will lit enough when compared with the background. Next time try raising the exposure for the subject. And this is a perfect example of using a small focus area, with the single point being the best. Since you are not moving the focus point around. Just use Single point, keep it in centre since the subject is in centre. No tracking mode beats single point if you can use it in right scenarios.
I'm glad you found the hint helpful! Stay tuned, there is more coming regarding the that particular topic like the Handoff and Pickup advanced focusing techniques
You didn’t seem to talk about 3d tracking at all really. You’re doing a disservice to not ever use full auto area. And the 3d handoff is a standard method, so you should’ve talked about that as well.
Abit over the top any Flash or storage can fail from any manufacturer at anytime. just just happened to hit a lottery on the bad flash. even prograde has failures, sandisk and every single one. the cheaper the brand the more likely you may hit a higher failure rate. like you said only 1 failed right the second didn't and probably has not yet.
I have used 3D Focus Tracking since 2008 and love the instant perfect focus no matter if subject or camera moves. When I received my Z7, I missed it. Now the Z sits in my closet most of the time.
Thanks for encouraging the use of raw. I like the way denoise software has improved and it only works on raw. I just need an external ss drive like you are saying... good video.
That’s really interesting and helpful, thank you for taking the time to do that. I’m hiring a Z8 for the weekend which will be my first experience of mirrorless. I’ve had a D610 for some years now, with various dSLRs and SLRs before that, so I’m expecting quite a jump in focus ability. I’ve watched lots of videos with some really helpful ones from Steve Perry and Hudson Henry, but this is the first time I’ve seen the areas and their nuances explained this way - super helpful, thanks.
In simple words, "Nikon" 3D tracking is unpredictable, hence awful, compared to Canon, Oly M1X and OM's OM-1 (and maybe SONY) ... Simple. I would suggest to compare with the Z9 with mentioned bodies. There is a definite ergonomics and focus issue with the Z9 being blamed on the user. BUT .. The fact is the Z9 focus system is great if YOU control the subject and scene, BUT that is not real world photography. It's being in denial. While the Sony and Canon get the money shot, the Z9 will get technically perfect captures of the inappropriate moment.
Thank you for sharing your insights on Nikon's 3D tracking system and comparing it to other brands. It's always interesting to hear different perspectives on camera technology.
Simple words. He setup his camera wrong. Sony or canon dont get a money shot either if you dont setup properly. Canon r6 ii when I first got it I took a photo with bunch if people in the frame. it cant figure out which eye to focus. I hate it. It only .works when one person in the frame else it wonder all over the frame. I later discovered you have to use multiple focus setup or use a box where you put your subject on that box so that camera will only.look for that box. Lesson you have to know how to use the tool
Brilliant content. Well done. The info is so good, and your expertiese is very evident. If you could improve the audio a touch this chanel could be huge because you're really great.
Hello, I wouldn’t have used 3D tracking in this instance. I have had similar occasions in the past with the same results. Please don’t think this is a criticism, it’s not, however, I would use “Wide C1 , ( set to narrow and tall, on the landscape format with people selected). I find this is easy to isolate the person and follow the action. I rarely move the box, just keep the subject centred. If I loose the head or eye I do not refocus, but hit the switch eyes button. Using this method after a bit of practice, I am getting about 99% keepers. Please try it. Love the channel! Thank you ……… TonyH
Thanks for the tip! I will give that a try. what does "switch eyes" button do in this case, why that if you loose the head or eye? Does it force a refocus?
Ok, firstly allocate switch eyes to a button, I use “WB”, then all you need to do is keep the subject within the red area. If you it, don’t release the AF-ON, It will re grab the subject. It works for almost 100%, good luck!
I have a z7ii and just bought a z9. I have been studying the focus modes for some time. You are the first one to point out how subject tracking does not work with dynamic range. Thank You
Are you making this video because you don't understand how the AF works and you're looking for feedback? This is a not a situation where you should be in 3D tracking at all.
Good example thank you. I think tracking AF is going to be tough on any camera when there are multiple subjects for it to choose from. I would have gone manual in this instance and kept it focused near the vault. I'm going to hold on to my Z6 for as long as possible.