The long term solution is a cassette that doesn't do this. But the short term solution is to use a flat head screw driver to bend it back to a point where it works better. And for the sharp edges use sandpaper. This bike abused the drivetrian as it was very flexy, but I've tested Sunrace 11-50t cassette on a Geometron G1, which is a stiff enough bike, but I experienced the same issues, but also additional issues. I've experienced the same issues. I've a review on my website. But the short story is the Sun Race cassettes are overpriced junk. As with all of the 11-46t cassettes I experienced bent cogs, teeth, sharpen edges on ramps and teeth. Two of 11-50t developed play in the rivers so I couldn't shift anymore. So don't get these cassettes. Shimano Deore M5100 11-51t is HG too. It performed much better previous get Shimano shifted better than Sunrace but current gen like this one shifts much better, very smooth shifting front the start. Only weak point of the Deore Cs is the plastic spacers. Don't fiddle with them, don't step on them. I tested the durability I snapped it by using my thumb and finger. But I kept spacers from worn out cassettes, so installed spacers from XT cs. I've first used the cassette on my G1 tested I shifted like a beginnertidinh in too heavy gear, it performed quite well. I've used it on my shopping bike, performs well, smooth, quite quiet. But if you want super light but not spend on xtr or Sram xx1. Then Garbaruk is a great option, not as smooth shifting from the start, but once it wears in it's on par with the current gen Shimano. Easy to install as it since part, apart from the bolted on alu cog , which never came loose. It's about half the wight of the Deore around 600g vs around 300g. If you go XT you need microspline freehub, Deore M5100 is HG.

Thx for the comment. Sorry, I forgot to put the link for my review in the description. 11-46t review wp.me/p60aTF-2vK 11-50t review wp.me/p60aTF-35V Other components to avoid: Anything Box components. As my review an others reviews and videos I've seen it's all crap. Microshift doesn't offer as big cassette and Rd can't do it. And clutch is horrible as it's a ratchet clutch not friction clutch as Shimano. The cassettes also have some of the symptoms Sunrace has line sharp edges on ramps and teeth. There's a guy that literally put it under a microscope.

On this bike I sometimes it happen to XT 11-46t it was stiffer, and didn't get any of the other issues. But as I mentioned only sometimes not as often nor as bad, but no sharp edges, no rivet issues. I don't know if the issue was partly the bike. But I've not tested it on my newer bike. As I wore it out. And it's too small. Bu with the sun race I was able to test 11-50t on both bikes. And the sun race was junk on both. So I think it's best to go for for Shimano Deore for low price and when weight isn't an issue and Garbaruk when low weight is important but still vant Great value, but willing to pay. It's proven to be problem free. Only drops chain at unrealistic gsdt backpefallinh now, but nobody pedals backwards at high speed😜 the shifting is smooth as it wore in. Maybe this was a intentional design choice, bake it so it wears in, so it lasts longer. But Sunrace is purely worse design, and flexy.

@@mtbboy1993 Thanks for the information you gave! I have a Deore m5100 cassette which I bought online a month ago, and I noticed there is a slight bent on the 11 teeth cog, which I don't abuse very often but still use. I assumed it was a defect product, but I double-checked it before I installed it on my hub, and it was straight brand new. That’s why it wonders me why I hear a small sound but not very noticeable to hear. I’ve already tuned the rd but as I observed, it has a slight bent in the 11t range. Before I unbent it using pliers, I am a little bit skeptical if it will deform the structural integrity of the steel when using the 11t gear. Yes, I am a little cheap for today because I ain't wasting another money just to buy another cassette when the only issue is a bent 11t cog, and I’m sure gonna use that gear range very often.

@@happyguy9473 Keep in mind noise from the 11T is normal. You mgiht mistake it for something being wrong, but it's due to the chain line, if you use a single chain ring set up, it's normal to hear noise. Keep in mind depending on the chain line there noise level can be different on the 11t cog, but keep in mind that this cog will be noisier than the others as the chain-line on this cog is more extreme. I've tested with boost chainring, a boost chainring will reduce noise n 11t, but it will make chain be less secure on the largest cog, shifting will be worse, it only improve things on the smallest cogs. And should be avoided, unless the bike requires it due to massive tyres, thus chain stay being in the way. So use a 6mm/ regular chain ring. If the chain gets stuck or skips, then something is bent or has sharp edges or both. This can happen due to impacts, brutal shifting under load, bent rear derailleur I guess.

It's likely overgreased from factory. Just wipe off grease eig any escapes. And when greasing don't overgreased it, easy tonovergtrase with the tool, so wipe off. No need to fill it completely as it will pop the seal off. But they will run smoothly and spin faster, they wear in. But if unusually draggy check if you tightened the pteloa too much, easy to do with plastic reload rings that are vague in adjustment. If so upgrade to Cane Creek preload ring.

It's been a few days, so how did it go?

Yes, my body was was tired, but but i continued to ride on another trail, then I went home. Many roots many places to mess up. After the other trail I was done. Not done with that bid yet.

When the tape is too narrow this had to be done. I tape one side then the other, with good distance transitioning to the other side, and finishing it after 4 spokes from the valve. The rim is 33mm so if you use 23mm tape it's too narrow, due to the rim channel. So might need 24 or 25mm instead for it to fit. Correct size is not always available or exist. So doing this is a common practice. And you are right this is not the cause of the problems with this tape. I read about same issues with Continental tape, but it's likely the same tape rebranded. But I've not tried it.

​@@mtbboy1993 I read that its not solving a problem and ordered recommended size. The problem with narrow tape is that when you are using two layers, each shifted to a different rim side, both sides then have a poor cover of spoke holes and sealant can find its way into the spoke holes more easily. Some pro racers are using to seal the rim tapeelectrical tape because it is stretchy and lightweight and helps to seal the rim tape .

This tape was just few mm too narrow, it covered the channel, thus the spoke holes, but I wanted to have edge to edge coverage. It's not been an issue with more robust tapes. Like Gorilla tape, but Gorilla tape has holes in it and the adhisive is sticky goo. But I use Stan's now, but I'm not impressed with the quality, one roll had bad cut at the edge about 1m in to the roll, one had scrapes about 1 m into the roll. Now front wheel seems to be leaking. Maybe it's the tape I don't know. But atleast it lasts a 4 hour ride. But I will take a look. But the tape seems to be robust, but requires a microfiber towel or t-shirt to slide along and massage it to get it to be completely against the rim without bubbles. Bubbles will make it burst. Schwalbe could be easily installed without doing this. But as you saw it had other issues. I will likely review the Stan's tape eventually. I bought WTB tape i will see how it does.

@@wanderer2246 I just installed WTB tape it conformed to the rim much better, easier to get it stick on properly to the rim, it covers the rim almost edge to edge, so no need for second layer. The tyre seats easier. It seated at a bit below 26psi.

by my standards now it's not optimal.

It sure was. But like most rides I rode alone.

I got Timber Bell 👌it works in the rain too.

It's quite steep, but not too hard to climb for me. A thing to note with my vids is they are shot on no distortion lens, so it's not flattened out. Techier and steeper exist, but this one I never have to walk. Soon another vid will be up with me blasting down it.

I'm not sure what you mean. I never stated these are better than anything. For some reason my worst vids are the most popular. This is a old Deore shifter mechanism has metal, but Cover is plastic so is triggers. Also dotn use lube, use grease, I did ran out of grease.

@@mtbboy1993 I didn't mean to criticize your video. I am just asking because you have experience.

This is Deore so not pticiest, I don't remember much about the shifters from that year. Haven't looked inside them all. But old ones all had plastic. The ratchet mechanism was steel, and indicator were plastic. Album: www.flickr.com/gp/mtbboy1993/7NkiS5qA58 I liked the light trigger action, bit down and up shift, same with m6100 the 10 speed Deore, but did not like it did not have instant release which XT and XTR models had. But XT M8000 and XTR M9000 had firmer action as there was kind of a bump in the stroke. Maybe to prevent accidental shifts. But ergonomics and too long downshift throw was too much for me. No matter how I positioned it one of the triggers would bother me. Also would hit and rub my thumb on the lock on clamp on the grips. I've not tried the current Shimano shifters, but there's a 8nsoeed coming with shorter lever throw. I don't know if the XT and XTR shifters has that. Not sure about ergonomics on those. But I suspect they won't fit me well. For ergonomics and no fatigue and pain I use Archer d1xtrail paddle remote, suoebrlighy action, it's electronic wireless, controls a box mounted ont he chainstay pulling wire on a mechanical derailleur it works with any rear derailleur, can set speed, and it calibrates the wire at every start up. I hav issues with thumbs misaligning which can cause pain if it happens during a shift on a mechanical shifter, but with this system this is not a problem.

This video only shoes the lack of grip. This video is meant to aid the written review. There was no other way of showing the grip while on a ride.

I filmed the best way I could. Now I got a proper camera, a tripod. But I can't re-record this. It's tricky to do this, I held my phone in one hand. Also this rear derailleur is also garbage. Bushings wear out so in 70 km. So it's useless. The rivets have play, this happen only to two 11-50t cassettes. Not the 11-46t, but both had issues with bent cogs, teeth, sharp edges on ramps and teeth. But only the 50t cassette got the issue with the rivets, it got so bad it would not shift.

I now use Garbaruk 11-50t it's been problemfree. No such issues.

I completely understand your point about tool flexing the cog, I understand there will be some flex, but I tried to show the rivet play. Without having a camera person to do all angles. The big cogs moved more than normal. This results in not being able to shift. The rest of the cassette shifts, but not where the rivets have play. I've been told others had the same issues.

Thin washer? The washer inside needs to be there. And it has nothing to do with this. I don't have these hubs anymore these hubs ar e junk, I bent axle in all of them, just by going to the grocery store and freehub develops play effecting shifting and eventually fail, but tools exist to service them, but it's a bit hard to get them, some online retailers have them. To open the cap to service the bearings. But it's not worth the time to replace freehub nor service it. Non drive side needs proper seal, there was none jsut a cap. Easy to damage and water gets in. So impossible to us ein the snow, as need to rebuild the hub after each ride. Freehub freezes in -10c. 🤦 I had several I gave the wheels away.

Yes, just remove it, break it off, I used Panzer glass. But this case is very bulky, and hevay, overkill. But robust. But for a smartphone this is overkill. Also nothing to cover th lenses. I use Nillkin Camshiiled now, but have a nrw one on the way cus sliding door for lenses wor out, and case is quit worn. I also no longer use the Sony phone got a Samsung a52s now. Nice phone but it too got screen burn in.

​@@mtbboy1993Ok, tks bro!! Ill try!! 👍

This was just a focus test I did while on a ride I was testing my new to me camera, I will eventually get a different lens, I'm thinking 24-70 GM II would be suitable for my use. It's 2.8, but I see 24-105 G I'd a massive range but it's 4.0 aperture. I will likely do a similar test once I get a new lens. Also not tested focus with the 2.01 firmware. After testing the camera for some days I discovered the battery was faulty, firs 5i eliminated forgetting charging, it drained fast, got a new one from the retailer, now camera works well. Also few days ago, I updated the firmware to 2.01, now the camera turns on super fast everytime, and is more responsive. And works with the new creators app. And can import raw to phone in original size now. Update went fast too. But I got expensive sd cards super fast, but got them on sale. Everything was a good deal. Camera is like new works well. I got the 85mm just cus it was so cheap used. Nice lens for portraits. But makes closeups difficult. But wanted a working camera from day one. Not sure on mics, I think ie watched all of your vids on mics. But will reach them. Here's stuff I decided on: More batteries. Two or 3 will b plenty. One is great for most of the time. But instead of waiting for charging it since to have more, and nice to not have to use the USB c cable and charger, so I want to get Jupio Tri-charge. Peak Design universal adapter for the travel tripod. I want but not sure which: A head, probably ball head. Not many options in stock in Norway First mic I saw that seemed good was Rode something, cheap and good audio, but I looked into it more but I need to refresh my memory.

Today I looked for a used lens. And I found a nice deal. I ordered a second hand 24-70mm GM II from a dealer. 👌

@@mtbboy1993 Hopefully in good condition cause second hand sometimes you have to worry about fungus growth which can completely ruin a lens forever

@sparkestudio I get that. But I looked perfect, saw pics, looked great. So will see. So hopefully I have it in 2 days.

@sparkestudio Its in great condition. The listing said its in B condition, A means like new, but really I can't tell it's been used. It's like new. Smooth manual focus ring, no fog or mild inside the lens, no scratches, all rings and buttons work perfectly. I'm glad I bought it. 👌

I solved it by upgrading the levers to Rgtec levers, no more dead throw, you can find them on Ebay. The levers have bearings. You might need to sand the original pin, I had to even more than the manual suggested, it was not only the edges, I lubed and sanded and tried to insert it, I repeated until it fit all the way trough. The bearings don't have play. But there is still a bit up and down okay but that's due to lever moving up and down in the lever pivot. Maybe the lever could have been a tiny bit thicker. But tha t would have to be miniscule as there sonly 1 mm play, in total, so around half mm top and bottom. Leve removes has pivotal play of around 2deg. This is due to the pin it self is moving up and down. I can't tighten it more to prevent the up and down play. The pin is basically a female axle othe ris a bold that threads into it. So unless machining custom bolts I can't solve that. Don't know if aftermarket options exist. Bu tit works well enough. This play was there when brake seere new too. The lever action is much smoother with bearings, even when the brake was new. The holes add grip without being too sharp, comfy but grippy. Well machined. I got them from Ermg shipped from Germany but he's out of stock so buy directly from Italy on Ebay if you want it, I got standard length but long and short exist too. www.ebay.com/itm/125531213076

Here's more info about the brakes. I had to rebuild the front caliper due to leaky seals, this is why some of vids had noisy brakes, they wae deformed, they were shamfered, so this eventually causes stuck pistons, they did not retract consistently. But rebuild with new seals solved that. The bleed port seals let air in on both front and rear, so needed new o ring on both, but wear was inconsistent, I bled rwa brake multiple times and it was worn let a bit of air in, but front brake the seal was shredded horribly, after just one bleed. So seemed like faulty seals or some contamination causing damage. But the brakes are working now. A nice thing with these brake sis you can get all pasts as spares. But can't buy O-rings seperately only with bolt. But hardware stores might have correctly size. The brakes work in at least - 10c buy th elever feel is more wooden, and more sensitive, as in more grabby. But not a issue. I did not get a chance to test colder temps than this. I ronlu used them with Formula mineral oil.

Old crappy video. Most of my old vids at are bad. .

No. That's not normal, unlike the sound in the fork. But check the preload of the shock. it might not be correct, also keep in mind coil has fatigue, thus you might need to add more preload eventually. But if you ride on a rough trail and hear a plasticky clack clack then that's just the plastic thing, that's fine. But if it's not what you hear, I recommend to contact your nearest service centre. If it's what I think it is, as you described, then have experienced what you describe, and the shock needs to be rebuilt, same with loud suction sound. A bit of noise from the shock is normal. no shock is silent.

I got a breathing sound but that's the damper making damper sounds. But I think this is normal unless you hear slurping sounds, then it needs a look at ASAP.

I have some vids where I talk. But for talking to this camera I need a proper mic. But I updated the Firmware from 1.11 to 2.01, so will test the autofocus in a scenario like this later.

This was on Firmware 1.11, But installed 2.01 today, so I will test to see if it improved.

And I found a great deal on a second handI 24-70mm GM II from a dealer, so ordered it. 👌 So this is an appropriate lens for my use. I can do close ups, be closer to the lens. Will be nice for product photography and bike pics.

I have some vids where I talk. But for talking to this camera I need a proper mic. But I updated the Firmware from 1.11 to 2.01, so will test the autofocus in a scenario like this later.

Keep in mind the best bike for a pump track is a dj bike, and smaller wheels, small wheels, quick engagement and it will be faster. I saw footage of a guy jumping at middle section with a DJ bike. I never managed to do that. But love how the G1 steers, so very stable and easy to ride on the pumptrack too. But it's not as quick, and not willing to jump.

Yes, definitely some nice areas for riding, of all styles, easy xc , slow and fast, gnarly. I documented most of it on video, and Trailforks.

As listed in the description. Camera: Go Pro Hero 7 Black Lens: PeauPro87 no distortion lens Chin Mount: Gnartec Ultimate Recorded in 4K 60fps WIDE GoPro Day Settings: Ev: 0 Min ISO: min Max ISO: max Color mode: Flat Nd filter: none Export settings: Video: Format: Mp4 Codec: H.264 Type: RGB 16-bit Frame rate 59.94 (original frame rate) Quality: Best Resolution: 4K, 59.94fps Audio: Codec: ACC Data Rate: 192 Kb/s Bit depth: 16 Output track 1: Bus Main Stereo + Bus 1

No I built it in late 2019, but I changed some parts. It's a Geometron G1. You can find stuff I use on Kit.

I just looked up your bike i never heard of the G1 before that's really cool it's built very well i also see they offer it in a full bike kit with wheels and everything to build the bike or just the frame and rear shock.

I went for the 29er frame kit with EXT shock. Reused parts from old bike bought some second hand parts some new, but since then things changed, latest update was 213mm Revive 2.0 dropper post. Next thing I want to try is quicker engaging hubs, possibly Onyx, and different saddles, as Fabric Scoop gets really harsh in sub zero temps. I found DT Swiss alu spokes to be junk, they corrode, and their Brass nipples round off, I recommend Sapim. So if I get a dream wheel set it will be Sapim nipples and spokes for sure. As I know it's solid, had it on the old Hope Enduro wheels. Now I have wider DT Swiss rims. I love 30mm rims combined with 2.40 tyres. @@MTBTexasBikeRider

It's an expensive bike/frame but it was worth it for me, quality, made in Germany. I wanted a proper bike. Saddle and hubs, nipples are my only complaints, everything else is dialed. I might try different tyres too. Maybe different brakes. But so far the Formula Cura 4 do well with the RG Components levers, without those I can't recommend the brakes. @@MTBTexasBikeRider

I told you about this bike before. You asked at the video from 24 May 2023. @@MTBTexasBikeRider

Winter here too, but but I've not been well lately, so I've not ridden lately. I still have a back log of rides to edit. It's alot of snow. And was - 15 c the past few days, and even - 23c in evening and night some days ago.

@@mtbboy1993yeah I’m dealing with a ankle issue as well. Just me playing hockey for years it gave me an issue it flares up every now and then but being I was hit by that truck years ago it fires up a lot.

@@Wannaridebikes For me it's the back and neck.

Check out my review. I forgot to add link before, but just added it now.

@@mtbboy1993 mounting plastik, apakah rekomen untuk dibeli acerbis ini?

The arm is plastic, it uses wood pozidriv screws. You decide if you want it. There are many handguards on the market. I've not tried them all. BTW I don't speak Malaysian. So hop Google translate worked.

It's snowing here there was about 5 cm with snow. Few days ago it was - 14c at night. Now it's 1c. I put studded tyres on a few days ago.

I repaired it. But I have more, I tried done and it fit me, so I ordered some. I got this one for free anyway, kind of I'm a mod on the FB group. I like the fit of these jerseys, I use Large. Fit perfectly.

This bike makes it easier. Once you get weight forward to initiate it, and then it's easy. But I'm still struggling with manuals but I'm getting better.

Thx. Already has some time on these jumps before. But probably could get better. On another ride a local kid managed to land a a manual. I managed to get footage of that. So might come in a vid some day. I linked to his channel in another vid.

I built this bike in 2019, it remained my main bike. It's a Geometron G1 size Large 515mm reach, , I changed some parts, upgraded from mechanical TRP Spyke to Formula Cura 4 with RG components levers( as seen in this vid), wheels wider rims, love the riding characteristics, stability of Michelin Wild enduro on 30mm rims. My recent upgrade was replacing the 185mm Bike yoke Divine( as seen in this vid) with 213mm Bike Yoke Revive 2.0, which has a super light actuation. I swapped the 175mm Race Face Atlas cranks for 165mm, which allows me to use the 213mm dropper post, which is max the L frame can run. It's few mm from max insertion. When I built this bike I sold the frame and some parts on the 2014 Fuel ex I upgraded, it was junk, used the parts to build this bike, converted Hope wheels to boost, reused what I had on hand bought a headset, and second hand stem. the stem is still going strong.

On Flickr I have photos of it. I will post pics of the new dropper post once I've edited them.