After using several UV flashlights, with varying success, I bought a 12V-DC powered UV light, with a long power cord that clamps to the car's battery terminals. Now this light works great. I also use it , with the appropriate dye fluid, on the cooling system and for oil leaks a plenty on my vintage Harley-Davidson....
And this is why you never buy a used car with AC that doesn't blow cold, or has a very recent AC recharge on its history (cos it might simply not have leaked out yet). Assuming AC is important to you, of course.
When you vacuum it down when you come back to the shop tomorrow you going to vacuum all the oil out that you just put in. Whatever man you just wasting money
dude use a rubber mallet with sand inside it- are you seriously smacking a metal hanmer against an oil pan? i hope you plan to replace that pan- irresponsible and very unprofessional🤓☝️
This is a great video of what NOT to do! From the video, it's clear that this person has little or no formal training in HVAC. After you reclaim the freon, you need to check the drip cup on the side of the machine to see how much oil you have pulled out of the system and replace it with the exact amount. It's like putting too much oil in your engine, balance is crucial.
I’m having the toughest time. I went from a LS1 style motor, cam sensor in the back, to LS2 style motor, cam sensor in the front. Keep getting P0342. All I did was cut the wire at the back close to the pig tail and extend the wires to the front…? Any ideas? I’ve replaced the sensor. I put a volt meter on the pig tail and I don’t see a 5V reference.
That's a problem you people don't realize using a impact on lugnuts is stupid no matter how you do it I've seen what can happen sometimes it's not good
LOL. That is not an accurate test buds. 🤦 if you set the wrench to 100 doesn’t mean it’s accurate. It means you most likely went over. Get a digital torque wrench on that and then make a video showing the accuracy of your torque-stick in a signal shot. But nice try buds.
We use torque sticks at our shop and I double check with the torque wrench. Never hurts 😊 also, can we get a view of what the stick looks like when it’s torqued on the air gun vs on a battery tool? (I broke the big snap on 1/2” drive impact using these 😬)
That was NOTHING compared to what I've come across, and I've only managed one successful oil change. My first DIY a week and a half ago, it was near impossible for a 2021 Ford EcoSport. My sister's Fiesta was impossible. Had to dump the old oil back in it and give up. It's like the valvoline quick change shop put red loctite on the threads, then torqued it down as hard as they could with a strap wrench or something. It will NOT budge, and I tried the oil cup wrench first, then got out the 3 clawed tool. No dice. And I'm MORE than strong enough. Only thing happened, was I started to destroy the filter. Barely avoided putting holes in it. Don't know what to do. Valvoline shop sabotaged it so she'd HAVE to come back to them. Question is...how do THEY take it back off?
The real question is how dumb you both can be put a stud lug or two in and save your boys face then get a dead blow and save your foot lol be smart be safe
In order to know how much is taken out compared to how much is in the system you have to know the grand total of how much oil is in the system to begin with and subtract what was taken out as long as you're carefully keeping it to within manufacturers specifications of oil volume
Jasper, stop the cap! I followed your instruction and no way I counted 6 bolts/nuts. The sway bar had to come down. I had to remove the dipstick, the airbox + mass airflow sensor + 2nd air boot, the clutch fan (because of engine tilting forward), the power steering pump, automatic transmission cooling pipes attached to the block + the bolt the attach the power steering hoses to the block and the steering spindle that is attached to steering column which is attached to the steering rack. Since this is my first time I'm at day 4 working roughly 6 hours per day.... But he is right you can support the engine at the transmission housing. and you can remove the dipstick bolt from below...
1. Hand tighten it first of all 2. Lube the rubber seal 3. Turn the car upside down to not get the engine bay dirty. 4. Turn on the engine to let the fresh oil go to all places needed in the engine and be lubricated.
I know of mechanics at my last job who would stand at their toolbox clean and polish and organise their tools. I call them time wasting clock watches. They spend more time cleaning then they do working. Bit like a cordless drill they work for half an hour and then have a rest for 2.
