Talk Shop With Frost | The right painting techniques for the best finishes
Welcome to the official H.D.F. Painting Channel. We are a painting company located in Concord, Massachusetts. On this channel you will find "Talk Shop with Frost" a video series that will provide videos for DIY home painting projects, painting products/tools reviews and step-by-step instructions for those new to painting industry.
I watched this to get an answer on if you shouid paint or stain over a deck that was previously stained... maybe i missed it but did he say?Whats the answer?
thx I Have used for a kids wall years ago but did make a couple mistakes This was helpful to jog mt memory Now to put chalkboards on the inside of a couple new shop cabinets. Always have something to write. Like, "DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING IN THIS CUPBOARD"
I’m painting with this kind of paint but I cleaned up really well where I’m painting i cleaned up with tack clothe really deep but when I painted the doors, the paint has a lot of garbage I don’t know what to do could you give me some tips please I’m using the dust exhaust machine but the paint still has garbage Im painting by brush windows and doors thank you
The fact that you said OSHA...Subscribed...keep the safety tips coming...a lot of us are looking to do more side hustles to help balance finances, thank you!
I would suggest trying a N95 masks, if you smell the odor, switch to an OSHA approved respirator and have a professional fit it for you. This will keep the odors away.
Dan I am getting ready to paint a historic entrance in Savannah and as it is a fixed exterior project what do you recommend I do to filter the air once I have assembled a plastic enclosure? I'm really worried about dust infiltration
excellent, informative, thanks! I want to know about what type of paints you can topcoat over primers. For example, I have been told to never put an oil based paint over a latex primer, and vice versa, but others have told me that mixing them is no problem. Confusing.
Hi. Can you please do a video of how to caulk indoors? (ei. bathroom sinks, bathtub and kitchen sinks). I also wanted to ask where to apply/use caulking or sealant for indoors. Your videos have been super helpful. I truly appreciate you for sharing. Thank you so much.
Not enough information for a home to do a painting project in there home. You left out some other needed. A paint can opener, a rubber mallet, how to prepare to cover your brushes and the roller, a ladder, eye protection and so on.
I just can't believe that if it was applied to a walls in an open to above entry foyer facing south east when the sun is shining that the high gloss would not bring out all the walls defects even if a veneer plaster of a level 5 drywall finish.
Using a primer will mean you need less paint for the covering coat of paint. Generally 1-2 coats instead of 2-3 or more for a good paint cover coat. Plus, the better quality primer/paint the less you need of it. Bejamin Moore is one of the best paint brands out there. $$ though.
I had someone quit on me about half way through an attempt at super high gloss ceiling in bathroom. I was going to paint it with regular paint but see every imperfect spot...even more so than I did when it was done 2 years ago. Planning on just keeping it gloss. Thinking I need Swedish Putty over it, sand it then do high gloss ceiling. Do I have to do entire ceiling? It has 6 thin layers of Farrow and Ball High Gloss paint on it
I would suggest you hand sand the high gloss ceiling with 320 or 220 grit sandpaper, vacuum and tack it clean and then apply on thin coat of swedish putty over the entire ceiling to maintain consistency.
Hi Dan, Thank you for making these videos. I am on round three of all I could find of your videos. You’re a good teacher and very easy to follow and wish you were in my area. Unfortunately I am from Baltimore. There are a few painters in my area. They seem to be refinishing kitchen cabinets and I believe my job is too small to be on their busy schedules. I’m am attempting to refinish a solid mahogany casket. Yeah that right a casket. I can’t really afford to learn at the cost of FPOE. I recently purchased a painting tent and an exhaust system with a clean air intake. Would you consider talking to me at your convenience for about twenty minutes, I’m pretty sure I can find you contact info on the net. Dan, thanks again for making these videos…. Mike Molinaro I have an art background and really want to do this myself. I have purchased all of the solvents, finishes and supplies from fine paints. When I asked the paint store questions about the FP process they are tongue tied
@@ALLAHDRINKSCUM I’m only intimidated by the subject of my project, I want to wine Hollanlac a mahogany casket. I fell like I should hire a certified pro but the estimate price was more that the coffin. The paint store should tell you this is paint for a seasoned professional.. before I spent the big dollars for the prep, primer, paint an all the supplies. I think I need to buy a spraying system and an exhausted painting tent next. I know a speck of dust is your enemy. I’m in over my head or maybe 6 feet under
I painted resin coated fiberglass interior boat hull, port and starboard sides. I used Rustoleum LATEX Primer, and INTEND to use purchased Rustoleum OIL BASED gloss paint-almond color. Is that a problem, using an oil based paint, over latex primer, and on resin-fiberglass? thanks
I have been working on my front door for over 3 weeks. I am on my 3rd coat of paint and am still getting tiny bubbles. Getting very discouraged. Is there something I have missed? Should I spray instead of brush? and yes, I have all of their products. I called them direct and they said to add boiled linseed oil - which I did and I am still getting bubbles. HELP
The tiny bubbles are frustrating, so we feel your pain. Unfortunately, there are multiple potential causes for the bubbling. A process of elimination usually works best in troubleshooting this kind of issue. Make sure that: -The temperature and humidity in the room that the door is being painted in are within the manufacturer's recommendation -There is nothing on the surface of the door that could be causing the problem. Make sure that you sand the surface entirely, and that the door was properly sealed, and primed. -Make sure that you allow the primer to cure appropriately -Strain the product -Apply the finish in thin layers, allowing for cure time in between coats, with a clean (preferably new brush). If you are going to thin the paint before application, do not exceed 15% thinner and only use fine paints of europe mineral spirits. -Make sure the door is left to dry in a dust-free environment -Spraying this product requires a uniquely high level of skill and patience so that's not something I am inclined to recommend unless you have experience spraying oil-based finishes. -if the bubbles remain after you have tried all of this, you could try sanding the entire surface with 600, 800, and then 1200 grit paper to cut the bubbles. Then using boiled linseed oil and an electric buffer (sheep's wool works well) to polish the surface. This is not a typically recommended solution, but it will give you a finish that a lot of people would be happy with without having to shell out for a professional. - if all else fails, and you are at your wit's end, hire a Fine Paints of Europe Certified Painter and you will be much happier with the results.
So I have done everything u mentioned. This will be the 4th time I have sanded but not with 600 or 1200 grit. I call FPE and they told me to use boiled linseed in the paint so I did that but didn’t buff with linseed. What do u mean by straining the paint? Pour it in another can when adding thinner? My husband and I painted a practice piece of wood and the bubbles didn’t disappear until we cut the paint by 50% with FPE mineral oil and then it was a lighter color of course
@robinmorgan3269 hello, I may have a solution to your problem. "straining" the paint means is passing the paint through a mesh paint strainer/funnel. Around 100 microns should be good. But I don't think that's your issue. Reason I can say that is becuase I'm assuming the bubbles are consistently and uniformly spread out throughout the door correct? If so and you're not just getting bubbles in different small local areas, you can rule out dust and things of that nature (hence strainer). That being said, you're now left with a few other things. By the way you confidently speak, I would also assume you mixed the paint + additives properly without any contamination of your mix due to oil/silicon or other any chemical from outside/unknown source. This leads me to my conclusion. I believe is the result of the paint drying and flashing off too fast. I haven't used this brand before so I don't know what type of retarder they have for it. But you need to slow down the drying. Once it flashes off and develops a skin, it's still trying to off-gas through the surface. The surface even though a skin, is still fragile enough to be punctured by the gas bubble comming up from underneath. It's drying too fast because of your climate. Humidity+heat. I could be wrong. But I hope this helps.
I have finished oak cabinets and am wondering , obviously I need to clean degreaser sand etc , Would I use brushing putty/then primer/then hollandlac? How many coats of each? I am obviously going to practice on some other doors or just buy a oak cabinet to practice. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Typically I spray trim and doors etc This is brushed on!
Use the brushing putty to fill the oak grain. It may take two coats. Prime with either FPE oil or universal primer than the Hollandlac, 3 to 4 coats of finishing, finely sanded between coats.
in the uk for oil it would be oil wood primer oil undercoat 1or 2 coats of oil gloss but this traditional process cost far more than using acrylics so doesn't get used more no more
I am using BM Iron Mountain (dark grey) in my living room on the walls, what sheen should I use. Im going to buy Aura paint. I had a puff back and painting the same color. The walls will be cleaned, but, do you think a prep coat is necessary since it's the same color? Thank you/
@@HDFPainting I can’t believe you took the time to reply. Thank you. So even though I’m painting the same color I should make sure he does a primer? They washed the walls with chemical sponges and it left streaks. Does that tell you anything?
@@todddonohue9 Good question. In some cases its ok not to use a primer. However, unless the existing finish is also Farrow and ball, you should use a tinted primer first. The streaks on the wall are another reason to prime first.
