Edgar, Well done, been searching for how to record using Ableton, only hard to find anything except pretty much full training on Ableton and you came up in RU-vid using a Scarlett Solo (4th Gen") Regards.
The SL1 is a hell of a camera. It looks like you were using the kit lens (18-55). Not bad if you have good light. I would suggest you try some shots using the canon 24mm f/2.8 STM (the pancake lens). The 2.8 is going to let a little more light in for your shots.
I believe most restaurants close at 10pm at this resort, if you download the Excellence app you can see their hours. And yes you can leave the resort! We went out to the hotel zone on our last day.
SHUT UP LADY…. You don’t know who’s better or not say they are bothe good because it’s rude to say that so shut your mouth and if you got nothing nice to say don’t say it💀
I also bought this camera 6 months again and to be honest so far so good. The only thing that actually bothers me is that if the ISO is set too high we can actually see a lot of grain popping on the picture, so I can't really recommend this camera for low light photography. Howeve, still a very good camera for a beginner and the amazing battery life is also a good +. Nice shot by the way especially the one at 3:14 my favorite so far
I may be able to help you solve that problem... I bought my 2013 EOS Rebel SL1/100D in 2021 after shooting for almost ten years with a Nikon D3100, which I loved. I got beautiful images with my Nikon kit lenses until I lost my whole system when traveling in south America. After that, the Canon 100D was the most available option for my budget. My Rebel SL1/100D hasn't slowed down my photography one bit. To solve the dynamic range problem early Canon models have with washed out skies in outdoor shooting, I rely on ND and CPL filters to keep the color saturation and blue of the sky without losing the rest of my shot. For any other image challenge, whenever people ask me whether they need a better camera body, I tell them to put their money into their glass instead. It continues to serve me well. I shoot mostly street, nighttime, and concerts, so I need wide apertures and I don't want to mess with ISO noise in post-processing. The ISO can be a limitation on this camera, but it's easy to solve with a couple changes. For lowlight photography, upgrading my lenses to faster apertures were the game changer. I don't need to use extreme high ISO because I have Sigma Art series f/1.4 primes at 30, 50 and 85mm focal lengths, plus a great little Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 zoom. Additionally, the Sigma Art series makes two absolutely killer crop sensor zoom lenses that beat the pants off the similar Canon L series lenses and for several hundred dollars less. If you want to shoot mostly with zoom, their 18-35mm f/1.8 and 24-70 f/2.8 are the best glass you can put on any Canon APS-C camera. If you can't afford the Art series, the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 that came before it is still a great lens, and Samyang makes a beautiful MF 85mm f/1.4 that you can grab used for ~$150. Christopher Frost has done really solid lens reviews on Sigma, Canon, Tamron and Samyang lenses for Canon which have informed my buys. I'm also having tons of fun with the Lensbaby Optic Swap lens system (available in 30, 50 and 85mm focal lengths depending on which optic). Their original Lensbaby series are pretty inexpensive now at second-hand prices and you can get beautiful effects that make your photography really unique. MPB is the best of all the secondary markets for camera gear. Plus you get their six-month warranty. Never buy new. There is no reason to eat all the depreciation on new gear when people are constantly upgrading and trading out their systems. You can get high-end glass at second-hand prices through them without any of the risk you have when buying from, say, eBay sellers.
@@worldadventuretravel Hi, firstly thank you for giving away your experience with this camera. However, I recently switch (still have my 100D around) to the Canon R10 with an RF-EF-S adapter as I didn't wanted to loose my 50-250mm IS STM from canon + right now the RF lenses or none to existent (at least for other lenses manufacturers). Since my last post I learned a lot from camera's and to be honest with you I didn't know that a lower f/stop lens could so well change the condition in low light photography. By that I mean that I thought that f/stop was a linear thing and not a sort of logarithmic thing. For example, I thought that goes from F/4 to F/2 would give 2X as much light but instead, f/2 lets in twice as much light as f/2.8, f/2.8 lets in twice as much light as f/4, f/4 lets in twice as much light as f/5.6, ... But you come right at the right time to post this because I'm seeking for a sigma lens, but the only issue that I currently have is that I REALLY don't know which focal length to use. And the reason why I always shoot with a zoom lens is that I can choose right when I'm shooting which focal length to use. I want to shoot buildings at bright time as well as at night time, portraiture, etc. But I really don't know what to choose. I guess the better option would be to go out and shoot and see which one I shoot most with and base my lens choice on that right ?
Bonjour, Désolé de vous déranger mais j’avais plusieurs questions à vous poser. J’ai un iPhone 15 pro Max et j’ai acheté le micro rode wireless Me, les mises à jours sont faites et quand je film j’ai toujours des claquement dans le son!!! Quel logiciel de vidéo utilisez vous? Avec vous une idée sur le problème ? J’ai aussi testé avec un Rode wireless GO2 et la pareil toujours le même problème et même avec d’autre câbles. Merci d’avance Cordialement Mickaël
I haven’t had any issues with mine but if you tried different cables and microphone it’s probably the port on your phone causing the clicking. I record using the Blackmagic Camera app and edit in Adobe premiere pro.
Any tips? how do u make ur yourself always center in frame kind of difficult using rear cam without seeing yourself. Also are u using Cinematic Mode? or just normal Video Mode?
