How come you tie the d loop in before you install the peep? If I do that I screw myself cause the peep rarely lines up. I have to get it set really close. If not then I have to try n twist the loop that’s now tight on the string and I could possible cause serving separation issue. Also was curious how you set up loop length cause I have specific loop lengths for myself. Cause your draw length is for the front half of your body and d loop is for proper alignment on the back half. To be your draw arm elbow in-line with the arrow when looking at full draw from the back. Also when you set the nock height for the Mathews. You set it dead center of the arrow nock. And that is 1/8-1/16 high of the center of the bow when measuring off the axel bolts correct? Then with the rest you set it so the arrow was level? You do all bow like that or Mathews specifically? Thansk
@PennNative there's alot to unpack here. 1. I tie loop first because you can just add a half twist to straighten the peep , if your loop is so tight that you can spin it to line it up with the center of the peep then you are cranking your loop FAR TO TIGHT! 2. Loop length is totally dependent on what the customer wants if they don't specify I use my standard loop length which has been proven over the years to work for 97% of archers and doesn't induce any lateral torque. 3. I set mathews dead level 90 degrees from the string j measure from axle to center of the nock and start 1/16th nock height setting the rest to 90 degrees to allow a slight variation in vertical rest position during the fine tuning process. This method DOES NOT work on every bow. Mathews, Elite, and Bowtech. This method will work fairly well. Others are hit and miss. Hope I answered your questions
@@BergyBowsmithyes you did. Thank you. What paper do you prefer to use on your rack? I sometimes just tie a loose d loop and shoot it a bit so I can play with things before I actually tie my nock points in and tie in a permanent d loop. I just seem To have trouble some times with nock position on the bow string and end up with nock low tear and sometimes have had to move my d loop up higher in the Berger hole. That save me a lot of unnecessary work. I have talked to you about my nock low issues I’ve had. My v3x 29. I had to have bottom of my arrow in the top 1/3 of the Berger hole to get it to have a bullet hole.
@PennNative I use the last chance archery paper it seems to be consistent for me. I normally try my absolute best to NOT move the nocking point from my initial set up if at all possible because as you shift upward or downward on that center serving you're changing the geometry of the bow. ( for example: if you set it dead center , you are pulling from the center of the bow, but if I'm nock height 1/8th high, then I'm pulling back favoring the top cam which would actually more then likely give you a similar reaction to a bow that is out of time and has the top cam hitting first . Vice versa for nock low )
I used to live in Rochester and have relatives in Spring Valley. What is the best time of the year to get a bow to you? I don't want to affect your own hunting or give you too much to do when you are super busy. Thank you for what you do.
@richarddean3154 any time of year works for me. If I am on a hunt my website will denote that. However the quickest turn around time of the year is mid January. Small world !!
For at least 15 years I set my bows straight thru. I set the manufacturers suggested center shot on the rest. I put on a 28” stabilizer and nock an arrow. Like your picture everything needs to line up. Luckily, I’ve had one bow I can remember having to shift cam bushings. All I’ve ever bought is PSE and Elite. Micro tuning( moving)my rest has been the final part. I have always used smaller design style fixed heads and very seldom have had to move the rest again to get field point & broadhead to the same POI. 👍👍
Best blue collar gannet here. No bs. After tuning my lift 29.5 with unbound strings, your method of tuning, and evolution 125gr practice heads. I can comfortably group my practice heads out to 85 yards with my hunting rig !
I learned this method from Chris Perkins several years ago. He does 2 legs on most of his competitions bows but does all 4 legs for added security on his hunting bows.
I just do 4 or 5 half hitches on opposing legs and don't have any issues with the peep moving on slippery bloodline strings. I don't see a need to tie all 4 legs. But that peep ain't Goin nowhere!
Why do you like the same size soft not on top and bottom? Where most tie a larger soft knot on the bottom? Also you don’t seem to pull very tight. If I use bcy 3D material. I have to really bind down hard. Cause I have had some slip. Usually it’s the bottom knot that slips up on me.
@PennNative I pull pretty tight and I use Halo .014 so it bites the serving better then bcy 3d to avoid slippage . Bcy 3d and halo .014 I've never had slippage , the reason for the same size soft knots is as simple as the size of the knot doesn't effect how well it works or doesn't work it's just there to avoid nock pinch so I just tie them the same size , it looks more presentable and it's a repeatable process Thank you
Thank you sir. Now as far as using a single soft knot below the nock. Have you ever done that? And do you feel people doing that are just trying to cover up or hide nock pinch issues? As far as I know. The main reason to use just one soft knot bellow is so there is more upward pressure applied so it hold the arrow down onto the rest. Say if you’re using a lizard tongue. What you thoughts on that?
@PennNative I've never only tied one . I always tie two , but I do believe the one on the bottom is for the reasons you have stated to put that arrow up. But at the same time if you have one top and one bottom the bottom one would still push that nock up and keep the arrow on the rest .
Here’s my process. Set at 13/16 . Tie in soft nocking points and d-loop. Usually center of berger or just high. Put in drawboard and check cam lean at full draw. Adjust cams accordingly. Shoot bareshaft through paper at 5 yards. Get close nock tune that arrow . Go outside with one fletched and one bareshaft and group tune at 20 yards. Sometimes i’ll go back to 30 but usually 20 touching and im satisfied. Fletch rest f my arrows and group tune. Not sure how accurate I could be with just lining up with limb bolts. What if my cams are shimmed all the way right or left?
@tonyviers-de9qi the problem with this is not all bows center shot spec is 13/16ths if you read hoyts Manual it actually says 5/8"-1" and has a picture of it running down the center of the limb bolts. For a detailed break down of my process there's a link in the description titled my tuning overview this is the process I use on every bow , I also have some other videos on the channel showing this process. However it is your bow so do it how you want. I've never had a bow end up shimmed all the way to one side like you mentioned.
@@tonyviers-de9qi continuing on some of these systems , especially 3 track cam systems there needs to be a little bit of cam lean to run things down the center they are designed to have some cam lean in the system so that's a factor to consider also
One of the best and most helpful people in archery right here.... I'm thousands of miles away on the other side of the world and Bergy was more than willing to share his knowledge and try help me.....there needs to be more people like this!!!!
Great info man, I see your at 998 so I'll give you a sub a like and a comment. Keep up the the work man, I remember how hard I worked for my first thousand subs. This will all become very much worth your efforts.
Hey I just saw up your post on Facebook and I definitely will be subscribing bro, I do all of archery, and appreciate someone who will tune a bow a bow before they sell it!!! Ur awesome for setting that Hoyt up for ol boy brother!!!
I need a PSE. Haven’t shot any of their bows at all in the last few years. I’m thinking I need to find a good price on a used one so I can tinker with it a bit.
Pretty dang close To the way I do things. I shoot everyone if my arrows through paper like that bare shaft and have had next to no issues with broadheads down range. I haven’t had near the drastic difference with my victory arrows tho. I’ve been able to do them 180 like That With next to no difference at all. I do mark my nocks and shafts tho once I get the bullets so I always shoot them that way everytime
With the nock issue this is why I shoot Easton. That’s crazy that GT has that type of difference with turning the arrow 180… my rx8 65 pds with a axis 300, 75 grain brass insert, 100 grain tip and lumanok are shaft tuned excellent at 11/16” from riser to arrow center. Arrow has blazers as well. One of the best bows I’ve shot hands down.
