How many times do you fill and sand. I’m currently in the middle of my project and the first piece should be coming off soon. I’m just curious on how much you go over it roughly. I know it’ll be different each time still curious though.
FOR ANYONE HAVING THEIR BOARD NOT LIGHT THE LEDS The instructions now say you have to leave the 24v power supplied to the board! Once I did this the guide worked perfectly!
Answering my own question after some thought. 24v you can get by connecting the motherboard directly to the printer power supply, with the red and black pins With a notebook or by bringing a printer close to the computer, you will be able to connect the motherboard to the 3D printer source and the USB cable to the computer and the motherboard
Once the mud dries and it looks how you want it to, you should throw some clear coat on it. Won't flake off during a con (assuming that's what your doing). I'm sure they'll look cool either way.
Thanks for the nice instruction...I pluged the mainboard to my computer with the good type of MicroUSB cable but nothing ...no blue lights ...nothing... could it be a dead board ? I rooted my Creality K1C but I don't like to handle the printer like this... Thanks for your answer and for your good job
I wonder if you can do this with only power disconnected since it appears everything else is accessible with the board installed. Maybe there is a back feed possibility to the daughter boards on the hotend and heat bed. Anyway thanks for posting this, I have seen this issue more than should on forums.
Yes you should be able to do this without disconnecting all the wires, as long as you are able to get the cord in. The cord we were using wouldn’t go in though so just assuming a lot of people will have the same issues. But if you can get it plugged in without disconnecting, definitely save yourself the time!
@@RafaelKaname stolen from what someone suggested on a bricked KE vid: For those having problems with the unsigned drivers, you'll need to boot windows in recovery mode (Shift + Restart) and then Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > Start-up Settings and press Restart Then on the Startup Settings, press 7 to select Disable Driver Signature Enforcement. This will restart your Windows and you would be able to install unsigned drivers
So, after beating my head against the wall, with two different Windows 11 machines, I used an old MacBook Pro and set it up to dual boot the MacOS and Windows 10. When booted in Windows 10, the driver loaded without issues and the rest of the firmware reinstallation when along just as fast as I could follow the rest of the steps. I have yet to put the board back in the printer, but if the machine comes back to life, no further news will be good news.
I realize that the problem I am having is that I cannot load the driver as described. I have tried two Windows 11 machines and I run into the same problem when I select the folder that has the drivers. Update Drivers - Ingenic USB BOOT DEVICE Windows was unable to install your Ingenic USB BOOT DEVICE Windows could not find drivers for your device. If you know the manufacturer of your device, you can visit their website and check the support section for downloadable drivers. Anyone have an idea how to fix this? Thanks OK, I get things started and I get this C:\Users\jfpar\Desktop\cloner X cong thread= 0x301c socket interaction test socket listen ret=1 core connected!!! "10:17" core (init)message: "0:0:0:11:0" "10:38" core (init)message: "0:0:0:0:0" start burner But then the in first cloner window, after resetting and rebooting the board and clicking start, the start button now says stop. At this point nothing seems to be happening. How long should the cloning take? I have tried restarting the Windows 11 computer, uninstalling and reinstalling the driver and starting the cloning over again. If I look at the task manager shows cloner using 1% of the cpu and 3% of the disk. What do I do now?
Hmmm ... Using Pronterface already means you're not running Klipper, so that's a significant reduction of the audience this video is suited for ... Luckily most people using Klipper will have suitable tuning instructions for the extruder rotation-distance (the inverse of E-steps used by Klipper) ... And ... there are numerous videos and articles online showing why that method of measuring wall-thickness for calibrating flow is NOT the good idea.
Many people have printers that don’t run Klipper, and these printers are the ones people typically have issues with tuning and getting good print quality. Not every printer is a BambuLab and has pre-set profiles. These steps are simple and very quick so that anyone can use them. We have videos on hooking up our Enders to the Sonic Pad if you are more interested in that!
Same here, I've contacted Creality support and am waiting (day 3 now) for them to update my support ticket. I did find a reddit post titled "No Micro USB Port Anymore (K1 non Max)" from about 6 months ago that says, for some reason, Creality released boards without this port soldered on for a couple months back in August/September of 2023. I bought my K1 on Black Friday 2023 from Creality and was considering myself lucky to have gotten the newer version with the good extruder, only to now find out i got a defective mainboard. I bricked mine trying to reset back to factory firmware so i can update the K1 Helper Script & it just has a Creality logo on the screen now. At first it has a blue bit sliding through the logo before it just goes to a static Creality Logo. The recovery method here is the only other way to flash firmware to the board & I am unable to do this recovery process without this micro-USB as it won't work from the front USB. The spot is there for one to be soldered on, but i don't have the tools nor the skill to pull that off. I advise anyone in a similar predicament to contact Creality Support, especially if you're within your warranty period. Best case is Creality sends a new board, worst case I have to buy one for $80. They'll want a copy of your purchase invoice, photo of the serial number, photo/video of the issue, and your email, just a heads up. They seem to have neglected my J1 pins as well.
@@AR3D.creations on screen like the z offset during print then after print it saves it. Well occasionally it loses connection with printer then reset everything
It was sliced on the Creality Slicer with “Tree Strong” support structure, concentric pattern, and a 0.2mm distance between support and model. Printing through the Sonic Pad and a direct drive helps a lot as well. We can go more in depth on the settings if you need, just let us know!
almost negligible compared to all the other ways humans burn fossil fuels. the amount of carbon emitted from airplanes, cars, and giant cargo ships is so enormous that’s it’s not even worth caring about stuff like this
personally wouldnt bother with this. Rather learn Marlin (pretty easy to make your changes) and get octoprint. Thats what i use and i print at 135mm/s with the stock coolers and stock hotend. I just printed an adapter for direct drive. Got auto PID tuning for nozzle and bed, BLTouch, Linear Advance, custom boot screen, custom status screen, etc. All running on the regular Ender 3 with 8bit 1.1.4 board. Acceleration XY at 1800 and youre good to go. This is also good if your screen or control knob doesnt work anymore because OctoPrint does everything. I will say that you shouldnt run OctoPrint on an old phone because thats potentially dangerous and a fire hazard. You can use Raspberry Pi's starting at Raspberry Pi 2 or newer or an old Laptop, a NUC, or any other ARM single board computers that support Python 2.7 or 3.7+. The Sonic pad is really only for users that dont care about not being able to edit anything at all. Its locked down firmware so no custom stuff whatsoever. And they rebranded it so creality can take full credit. This makes absolutely no sense at all because the sonic pad is Klipper which is a "hands on firmware". The point of it is that you can customize literally everything. With the sonic pad you cant do that.
Is it better than a raspberry pie? Tbh by the time your done adding everything to cart it’s the exact same price as the btt klipper screen and the sonic pad
i think the pads are more easy to use. easy to instal and much things are included from what i see. i run a cb1 with manta e3 ez. but so much to figure out. for example with creality pad they explain more and help you to set up easy also more macro's included easy to use accelerometers. and by the way pads have raspberry pi in it. if you want easy and fast experience go with a pad.
3-Pro here with MicroSwiss Direct Drive hot end running the 4.2.7 board. Mounted a CR Touch and have dual Z (2) on axis with ball screws, linear rails. Never booted up. Bought a Sonic Pad on Black Friday and will install next. What updates to Klipper are needed for the CR Touch, please?
Those are our next upgrades, we actually already have all the parts printed for the dual z. We are adding a CR Touch to our Ender 3 Pros soon, but it worked just fine on our Ender 5 Plus. Some auto bed leveling probes will work just fine, but if it doesn’t work right away, check the Klipper website for configuration help. Searching “BL Touch Clone” on their site should bring it up.
