It is my intention to produce and post videos that will help people learn something new or make a more informed decisions when approaching a project or making a purchase.
@@AndrewMccutchen-sj1dc There is a dust available by PT but I do not believe it is for flys. Nor do think it is the same chemical compound. I have not really looked into it.
All chainsaws are the same. They never start when you need them to. I’ve used them all. They are all the same crap. Every brand is owned by the same manufacturer and they make them crap so you think to change brands and somethings gonna change. But no they are all crap and won’t work when you need them to. Brand new husqvarna won’t restart after using it for 2 minutes. All crap.
For me it is a strong recommendation for the price. A few days ago my house had a bunch of flies and I applied the bait in a few areas. Today I can’t find a single one. I am on the same can for my 3rd year. I have horses on one side and goats on the other. Takes care of the issues for me!
I had pushed my latch rod out the back and had locked myself out of the hood. Had the latch rod fall out but managed to simply use a heavy duty metal coat hanger to go thru the hole and push the locking latch. With a couple of bends in the right place so it was in similar shape to the rod. I did raise the bucket but did not really need to. You do not have to drill any holes or cut/break the latch push area cover. It was very simple to do with the coat hanger. I tried using a solid 1/4 in rod but could not get a good bend where i needed and the clothes hanger worked great.
GASHER 2PCS 1/4" NPT Tank Valve... www.amazon.com/dp/B08N9TL9PY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Remember to take the valve stem out to improve flow. I put the link as a courtesy. I make nothing on it.
Here is my experience with my JD 4066m hood release which cost me $200 to fix and JD refuses to cover the cost and denies any flaw in the system. I just got off the phone with a John Deere customer response representative that told me they do not have any (many) reports of the Hood Rod becoming detached and falling in the engine compartment. I used a small screwdriver pushed in the access hole on the JD 4066 (and others) the hood opened... a day latter I attempted to access the compartment using a screw driver and there was no rod in the holder, I could see it floating around still attached to the hood release. Once that happens there is no easy way to access the engine compartment to open the hood with out removing other parts of the tractor compartment to get to it. In my case our JD dealer said they had to remove the front screen of the tractor to get access to it, then they replaced a part and put it back together for a total cost of about $200.00 the part they replaced was $19.99 and the labor was $174.00. The dealer told me that just the day before they had a 4052 with the exact situation. My tractor only has 117 hours on it... not even time for a service and because it is now 3 years old, out of warranty JD would not cover the repair (on a $40, 000 tractor). From the various posts on RU-vid and forums this obviously is an issue on the new tractors... I was told that anything after 2017 JD has been using this hood release design. I'm pissed not at the dealer but at JD for not covering my cost to have this changed and my guess it is the exact same way that it was from the factory so, the same thing could very well happen again! NOW FOR THE REAL ISSUE! My wife asked me that what would happen if this happened and I was out in the field, noticed some smoke coming out of the engine compartment or other major issue... how would I get the hood open.... Think about it folks if you had a clump of hay get in to the compartment and heat up how would you get in and put it out? There is No WAY! I told her that I guess I'd step off the tractor and watch it burn up while trying to call JD for service... this is a flaw and a real concern and everyone with a tractor with this design should think about it... Yea, someone will say, just spray water on it... OK, so it's sitting in the middle of a 100 Acre farm smoldering.... where's the water to put it out? The I brought all this up to the agent that I was speaking to... he just said he understands but was not going to reimburse the cost to us... I asked if he would escallate the concern and issue to somone that could authorize a payment... He just said now this is where it stops... I'll document the concern but JD will not authorize any reimbursement. End of discussion. So I thought I'd start here and other forums bringing this issue up... as JD does not thing its a big issue! Sorry for the rant, we have over $80,000 invested in JD equipment because I thought they cared... obviously not! The agent I spoke with didn't even do any research on the issue and had no idea how the hood release system works...I'd think he would of at least looked at a tractor to see the obvious issue.... He just was not that interested! I hope if nothing else we can spread this story on JD and tractor forums and get JD to recognize this is an issue for their customers.....
2:53... I'm Trying to Figure Out What That Gray "#2" Pull-Plug is By TheSparkPlug... Is It a Compression Release, Some Sort of Secondary KillSwitch? I Can't Find TheAnswer! (I Don't Have an Owners Manual...& My "SmartDevice" Won't Open ThePDA File.😒)
Hello amd thank you for the informative video. The problem I'm having is that the 445 x-torq i have won't start even after i installed a new carburetor, sparkplug and fuel filter. I added new gas and it won't start. I did unplug the hole ports. Still nothing. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Husky flood real easily. Don't over prime and have choke full up for cold start. Thereafter use choke middle position for hot or warm saw. No prime necessary.
I own the new version of the Poulan 42/18 and it's a fantastic saw. Before I even started it for the very first time I regapped the plug to 30 thousands and it's never gave me any trouble what so ever. Also my Poulan have never seen a drop of ethanol fuel, I only run premixed in it. I absolutely love the saw. I do appreciate your video thank you for sharing
@@cdee6096 I never had the hard start issue. Before I bought the saw I watched a ton of videos and read reviews, and everyone said about the hot start issue with this particular saw said they regapped the plug to 30 thousands and that fixed the issue. So before I even put it to a piece of wood and put fuel in it for the first time I did this. I've never had a single issue with this saw. I've had it now for about 3 years. I do maintenance regularly and pull the exhaust of and clean the carbon. I fix small engines also. Thank you for responding. I really appreciate it. You got me as a sub. Keep up the good tips
Hi Paul. That is metal HVAC tape used back when I made the video was because thats what I had laying around. I have had people make a small shield from aluminum foil as well. Just make a heat shield between the carb and head to keep the carb from getting too hot.
@@cdee6096 Many thanks for the quick reply. I will do that and report back. There's nothing worse than going out and pulling your guts out - to no avail!
The scene like the machine gets confused when adding adapters when putting air in it goes up-and-down and it's screwed on tight it seems like it has problems figuring out how much air in the tire
I do have an issue with cold start. Recently put a tune kit in, gapped the plug. Ran good for about ten minutes then starts bogging out and eventually quit. Tried adjusting the H/L, cleaned out the carb twice. Found it to be flooding out. Put new carb in and still won't fire off. I been working on small engines for years but cannot for the life of me figure out what's wrong with mine. Ideas?
My gut feeling is a vacuum leak. Have you checked the hoses? I was having some issues with another engine and the answer was to replace the hoses. Good luck!
Grea demo, one question, how does the chuck lock on the valve? Does it have a metal latch like the older presson chuck you showed in the video you used to use? Or the JACO have a rubber sleeve/boot that locks on the valve stem similar to the bicycle pump chucks?
Good Question! The chuck has a actuating metal latch. I suppose that latch would wear down over time if one did not hold the button down when placing the chuck on the valve. The button does not need to be held down to press on the valve stem though.
@@cdee6096 Hi! Thanks for the answer! I ask because I try to avoid chucks with metal latches. The metal latches chewup the metal stems esp aluminum as happened with my rig and friends’ rigs and we all had to replace them because the stem crown breaks off as the steel chuck latch digs into the threads of the valve stems and more so when they are aluminum and those valves have toms and are very expensive to replace. So since then I have been using the chuck that has the lever that bends and locks the stem by a rubber boot around it and it spares the valve stem and locks well with a very tight seal around the valve👌🏼
Im not a “you tuber”. I don’t want to put up links as a matter of personal policy due to not wanting to make it seem I make money. If I can help a fellow make a better decision- thats all I want to do. In today’s age- you can easily figure out how to get the part. So that’s on you.
@@cdee6096 Umm, just post links without any affiliate info and then make the statement that it's just a direct link and that you don't make anything. Not that complicated.
@@cdee6096 Only when you make a video on solving a problem/upgrading an item and then leave out how to actually do it. It's how you get thumbs down and then later if someone sees another video of yours they skip it.
Hi Rick. I will provide a link as a courtesy. There are other mfgs that can work and some may be better than others. I used GASHER 2PCS 1/4" NPT Tank Valve Anti-Corrosion Brass Schrader Valve with 1/4" Male NPT,Using with Air Compressor Tanks a.co/d/czqrOEL I make no money on this link. Remember to remove the air valve stem to improve flow.
Santa got me one too! Of course, that crafty elf somehow managed to get hold of _my_ credit card to pay for it... but I'm very happy with it lol. Looks like the Jaco S2S screws directly to the Milwaukee hose without an adapter.
When Milwaukee first brought out the inflator. It was 200 dollars. Back on Black Friday, Homedepot had the inflator for 179.00 tool only. I bought the M18 starter kit, charger with 2x 5.0 batteries. I got to choose one free tool. I chose the inflator. Later that day, the lady at Homedepot canceled my battery starter kit. It was sold out. She still honored my discounted inflator for 94 dollars. 😊 I just ordered the Jaco S2 straight tire air chuck for 24.95 with 5% coupon.
Curious....I removed the Schrader valve in the NPT adaptor. I figured it would just be an impediment to air flow. I used a different lock on chuck I already had. The setup seems to work just fine. You didn't seem to remove the Schrader valve in yours. Is there a reason for not doing so? Maybe I should have left mine in?
@@cdee6096 I used a CLOSED FLOW chuck. You used an OPEN FLOW chuck. I think I'll switch over to an OPEN FLOW as well. I read they are better for tankless inflators. "Portable tire inflators are an excellent choice for those who have limited storage space or want to take their vehicle on trails without having too much equipment. This type of power source works best with open flow chuck chucks because there's no need for tanks, so using a closed-flow unit would only build up pressure which could damage the motor over time!"
I have had my Milwaukee inflator for a couple of months now. I love it. Having to screw it on to the valve stem each time got annoying so I added a fitting like you show at 2:10.
I forgot to mention to remove the valve stem in the Schrader valve in the video. Im not that good with editing and such. I hope you find the new air chuck to be a benefit.
Hi Joe. I don’t add link’s because I don’t want it to seem like I make anything when I make a video. A place to get them is to search up JACO air chuck on Amazon. Or straight from the JACO website.
@@joet_swbo101 The adapter is GASHER 2PCS 1/4" NPT Tank Valve. One thing I forgot to mention is that you can remove the valve stem core to improve flow in the schrader adapter. It will improve the flow if you do.
