Contact: michael.goodman1972@gmail.com Grass roots fishing channel here to provide you with gear [rod and reel reviews], bait technique breakdowns and general fun fishing. I typically fish alongside with my 4yo son and sometimes my 6yo daughter tags along with us at our local neighborhood lake in North Texas.
ok i have been in search of some new lithium batteries for my TM, it is super scary the selections out there, bluetooth or no bluetooth, i have a amped outdoors battery powering my electronics and i am beyond confused on what battery to choose for my 36 volt TM, if you compare the li time batteries with BT, they right up there with the other batteries, i guess am i sacrificing quality by going with the LI time, i am really considering the amped outddors just because i already have one and have had one for several years. just do not want to over pay thank you for your time
@@scotwcates I would not consider going with LiTime as "sacrificing quality", there are plenty of recent tear-down videos that support that position. I would say you are sacrificing the ability to call and meet with a US representative from the company to help with any issues. That said, I've not heard of any issues with these and they are still 1/2 or better the cost of US-based options. Hope that helps
What is the difference between the Li Time 24 series and the 31 series? They look like they have the same power but making one bigger with same performance doesn't make any sense.
The group 31 size fits right in the majority of larger (20ft+) boats without any modification. These came out first as a drop-in solution. If you cut one open, there are foam pads that take up extra space. Removing the foam gets the battery down to the Group 24 size. Which is not a common size for deep cycle batteries, but it does offer a smaller footprint for those who need it. The same cells are in each.
@@goodmanfishing Thanks for the quick reply. I have a Triton 18XS with two 27 series lead acid batteries and do not think the 31 series will fit on the shelf they are currently on. I'm running a 80lb MinnKota Ultrex on the tandem 27's. I have a 31 series AGM starting battery so I would buy a new in-boat 3 bank charger that would allow me to select between Lithium and AGM. Once again thanks for the reply...I'm now a big fan.
That's was to be my ?. Still man hell are deepest spot on my three local lakes is only 32 ft. And it feels like deep sea fishing. I'm trying to get better at off shore stuff these days
@@NeilGraham.I.M.F that's definitely the deepest I've caught something in. Not many lakes around me have this depth and clarity. Lots of small fish had shad balled up over this deep water against the surface.
@goodmanfishing I haven't been able to catch any chasing this year. I've tried, I'm on The boat or yake like 5 days a week. It's been a weird year. Haven't generated much topwater action this year either. But to that vein I've been trying alot of new stuff aswell
👍🏻 thanks for sharing. Just rebuilt a nexave 1000 that had been run very contaminated. Polished all the gear teeth, replaced all 3 bearings with ceramics, made a new pinion bushing from PEEK plastic. Had to change the shim arrangement to get the best performance. Not sure how smooth it was new, but was shooting for better.
I have read in various places, both forums and mfg. web sites that you are actually better off to charge to 80% as opposed to 100%. This makes a lead acid charger more appealing to people.
There are numerous mistakes in this video. Many 12V chargers with a built in AGM profile (typically 14.4V absorption) will have no problem charging a 12.8V LiFePO4 lithium battery up to very nearly 100% SOC. You should be using an AGM lead acid charging profile for comparison, not a Flooded Lead Acid profile. 1) The quote at 0:25 “really if you have something that charges the lead acid you can go to an AGM there's no real concern” isn’t correct. There are two main concerns with using a flooded lead acid charging profile on an AGM lead acid battery. One concern is that the charging voltage could be too high. Some FLA chargers have absorption voltages that are higher than the typically recommended 14.4V absorption voltage for AGM lead acid batteries. The other concern is that many FLA chargers have a built in recondition/de-sulfation stage or as shown in the video “mild equalization” stage of 15.5V. A recondition/repair/de-sulfation/“mild equalize” charge should not be used with AGM lead acid batteries. That is why when set to AGM there is no such stage of charging included in the charging profile. I know of only one manufacturer that allows reconditioning of their AGM batteries, and it’s only under very specific conditions. 2) The quote at 0:39: “we have the absorption or where it's really kind of taken in at a steady state” is incorrect. During absorption the charging current slowly drops as the battery gets closer and closer to a 100% state of charge. At the end of the absorption stage the battery should be at, or very near, 100% SOC. 3) The quote at 0:45 “then we have the float charging which is getting it all the way up to 100 kind of slow that's your float charging” is incorrect. As mentioned above the absorption stage is where the battery is slowly brought up to 100% SOC. 4) This same mistake is again used to demonstrate the theory behind the claim of only charging an LFP battery to 70 to 80%, at the 2:08 mark of the video: “I'm going to bring in is a line here and that is going to show you where that float charging period is on a lead acid charger remember that's that last stage and that's where that that lead acid battery gets up to 100 percent at 13.2 volts. Again this is incorrect. 5) At the 2:30 mark of the video where you extend a line across the graphs at the float level of 13.2V to see where it intersects an LFP charge profile does not show the actual percentage of charge reached by an LFP battery. IMO you’re incorrectly backing into the result that you want to attain. An LFP battery would have already attained a very nearly 100% SOC during the absorption stage of charging. In fact a 12.8V LiFePO4 lithium battery would be charged to approximately 95% State Of Charge (or more) by the time the bulk stage of charging is complete. The float stage is designed to maintain a SOC, not to bring the battery up to 100%, nor does it limit the % of charge attained during absorption. Note: The float voltage of flooded lead acid can range for 13.2V to 13.8V, with 13.5V being a widely accepted standard. Due to their low rate of self discharge LFP batteries typically do not require float charging. **Some chargers do not truly float charge the batteries, (NOCO is one brand that doesn’t). Their chargers do not put out a constant voltage in float mode. After absorption is complete they simply monitor the battery voltage and then turn back on when a preset voltage level is reached. NOCO won’t publicly say what that preset voltage is but field testing indicates that the set point is around 12.6V or so.
The top listed batteries for under $300 you have listed are they good batteries? I have just a Garmin ultra 12” and a lvs34 black box & ducer I’m running. And I tried using your spreadsheet on excel but couldn’t modify the boxes. The screen uses 58W max & the livescope uses 39.6W BOTH are max usages. Thanks in advance for any input.
I bought 2 of the power Queen 31 group 100ah low temp trolling motor batteries on your recommendation a great deal on Amazon for 379 a steel and a few days later the 2 pack went up to 459. Why did you switch to LiTime now after you loved the power Queen?
im gonna stick to the lead acid battery 50% or not. I dont care. I do care about the others catching fire and no ability to put them out with the onboard fire extinguisher. The LA batteries dont last as long but they dont cost as much to replace. They are heavier and I dont care. Might go with the agm depending on the cost.
@@goodmanfishing thanks for commenting back. My brother and I both have kayaks, we recently both bought the 12volt watersnake 24 thrust motor. So I need to get 2 batteries, 2breakers, and 2 chargers. Do you have any links for the breakers Or any combos for the stuff I need? Thanks
@waterboy5164 no kits. Actually their "mini" battery does not have Bluetooth. You would need the "group 24 with Bluetooth". The charger and breaker is going to be separate, I think I have their charger linked in the video 👍
Hello - The nominal open cell voltage for a lead-acid cell is 2.1v, there are six cells in a 12v lead acid battery. 12.6v nominal batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-303-confusion-with-voltages
@@goodmanfishing That's incorrect, and the link that you yourself posted says so. The nominal voltage of a lead acid cell is 2.0V. The OCV of a "charged and rested" lead acid cell is 2.1V. Therefore the nominal voltage of a 12V lead acid battery is in fact 12.0V. The fully charged and rested voltage of a 12V lead acid battery is 12.6V. Here it is verbatim as per Battery University link that you posted: "The nominal voltage of lead acid is 2 volts per cell, however when measuring the open circuit voltage, the OCV of a charged and rested battery should be 2.1V/cell."
Thanks, late to the party here, but I felt the Nexave was really not worth the money. I have a couple 3000's ,4000's in the Sienna and both of these sizes have much stronger drags. Used primarily in Saltwater with lures. They have served me well.
This would work great for that. For a charger I would try to stick around 10amps for that size battery. Are you looking to bring a charger to the boat or mount a charger on the boat?
Great video just got minnkota terrova 80lbs 24v trolling which going on 17 foot V style aluminium boat Which two 12V battery's would you recommend not looking to cheap out on it just need something strong and reliable which will keep on the water enjoying not pulling my hair out Ps. going to utilize spot lock a lot at least this is the plan .......
@@gregp8ball 2x 60Ah will be more than enough power. Unfortunately there aren't too many "budget" batteries in that size. I am still a fan of the Group 24 LiTime 100Ah 👍
@@goodmanfishing Thanks for replay gonna go with li time now can you tell me since im very new to this and having 24v system in the boat which charger i need to get for them two batteries
@gregp8ball For just the two batteries you can buy a two-bank. If you want one charger for the two lithium's and maybe a cranking battery you can go with a 3-bank. I have some videos on FirstPower pro chargers that I'm current using
I bought a used Curado and the spool tension knob doesn’t appear to be cross threaded but it’s hard to adjust the tension and it seems like it bottoms out? You really have to tighten it on heavier baits. Any suggestions?
@@kennylowe9404 I'd look real close on it being cross threaded. It can be missing the little carbon shim inside of the cap, but if that's not missing, it's probably cross threaded
Great video! All very important and clear facts shown in a real world environment that applies to many setups in a lot of boats! Love the sound effects too!
Looks like I should pull the trigger on two to replace my 24v trolling setup. Dont know much about lithiums yet .Is it worth it to get the batteries with Bluetooth?
I have ones with bluetooth and without. it's handy, but it's not a requirement. These have a ton of capacity and I could never look at it again and not worry about running out of power. Charge it before every trip and go!
i just bought 2 of the 12v 100ah LiTime trolling motor batteries and so far so good. I could have used the 36v battery but the added cost of a 36v charger put it out of reach. My Garmin Force TM will now pull my 18'9" bass boat at just under 4mph for as long as you want with no complaints from the batteries. My old lead acid batteries could only go about 3.5mph for a few hundred yards before I would get an orange battery warning light on the TM.
Also another point you have left out is that the internal resistance of a lead acid battery is quite high compared to lifepo4 battery which has almost 0 ohms resistance. This means that a lifrpo4 battery will actually draw very high amps from any charger it is connected to, much like if the charger is connected to a direct short. This can easily wear out or destroy any charger or ALTERNATOR you connect the lifepo4 to, unless you do some tricky circuitry in between. So unless you are an electrical engineer you should listen to this man. Don't do it.
LiTime has a traditional shunt battery monitor that works. You can also check out the Amped Outdoors Bluetooth one www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6K4J7Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FR1BKZBMPTNXXK2S2W76?linkCode=ml2&tag=goodmanfishin-20
With the $10 coupon running right now the delta is actually $50. About a 50% increase to go to the NOCO. That said I've not had any issues with my 3-bank version over the last 8-months, I use it every weekend. I've heard NOCO support can be quite a challenge as well.
Good question! For the majority of these batteries, the Group 31s and Group 24s have the exact same cells inside of them. If you were to crack open a 31, you would see some foam inside taking up the extra space. The reason for the 31 size batteries is to "drop-in" to many boat configurations without needing to change battery trays. They have the same energy storage capacity.
looking for a lithium battery for a minn kota powerdrive 55lb 54" for my 12' Flycraft? The 12V 54AH Dakota is $400? Worth it or go with a cheaper 12V 50AH competitor? Do I need 100AH? Thank you
@@brooktroutangler5917 I have a specific video covering recent 50-60Ah options. I personally wouldn't spend the extra money on a Dakota. There are a lot of options worth considering in that video 👍
@ErnestColeFishing I designed up some mounts that go over the contour of the dash. They are a bit of a slip fit where you get things lined up and glue them in that position. Without having a scanned surface to work with, that's the best I could do. So the install process is a little wonky but it works great.
