"Don't know why he spending so much money to fix this piece of crap" Haha, very true, my friend. A great job showing how to check if its a failed starter. Thank you for hard work
I have a 2012 Volkswagen CC Sport Can't find a leak anywhere, have 2 different mechanics? Put it on the lift and nothing. Any help from anyone will be greatly appreciated. And its leaking good to
Top long bolt 14mm. 2 on bracket are 12mm. Then for the ground you will need a 10mm. To take off the shield on the bottom I had 2 8 mm. Digging through my tools always slows me down cause I'm never organized.
I decided to replace my alternator from the bottom as well. I'm no mechanic by no means but I did have to have my brother help me get the top long bolt out and help put it back in. Once it was loosened as much as possible it wouldn't come out so as I turned the wrench he pulled on it and we finally got it out. To put it back in I held it from the bottom while he pushed the bolt in. Again we had to wiggle it a bit to get it to go. I don't know how I possible could have held in position and put the bolt in but besides that the only other issue was squeezing it out the bottom without breaking anything. All in all it wasn't the easiest alternator I've done but also not the hardest Just glad I didn't have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to it.
Visit Nissan Assist regarding the 2019 - 2020 Nissan Altima on how Nissan is extending the emission warranty coverage on certain active grille shutter assembly to 15 Years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
@@Usmanthemecano Yes. If you click on the link at Nissan Assist there's a reimbursement form to fill out. Here's what it states "Please submit your reimbursement form via email or fax by downloading and completing the following form" Click on the hyperlink provided. Here's what they require - Copy of REPAIR ORDER(S)and applicable invoices (for rental/towing) • PROOF OF PAYMENT for rental, repair and/or towing (any one of the following): Copy of credit card receipt; or Copy of credit card statement; Copy of cancelled check; or Copy of checking account statement • PROOF OF OWNERSHIP if repair is over $1,000 (any one of the following) : • Insurance Card with Name, Address, and VIN; or • Copy of Title or Certificate of Title or • Bill of Sale or • Vehicle Registration or • Verification from Company owned vehicle person is Authorized Driver I hope this works out for you and others in the same situation. :)
Hi. I have a 2011 Sonata with only 38,000 miles. It has a new battery battery and starter. It has no power to anything and no crank. It started three times using jumper cables, but then stopped that also. What should i check? Thanks.
I have a 2013 that has good battery and new/good stater but nothing happens when key button is pushed. Nothing will power up except the button's little dim light as I'm pushing it. Any ideas where to start? Thanks!
@@Usmanthemecano I almost had a heart attack cuz I had no idea what the hell that part was or if it could even be fixed in the first place super grateful that it can be
I understand....I had to do both but either way after they both was replaced the code remain as well as the check engine light...I hate the check engine light..I tried to reset it with a OB2 device but it only cleared temporarily..So I don't understand it but my car runs fine I just hate the check engine light Lol
@shondablack6835 I've had to replace the wiring in some cases. Check and make sure the wiring isn't compromised. And if all good then replace the crankshaft sensor as well. Also I only recommend original parts
My lower balljoints were a pain to get apart too. I did get them so the lower control arms came down with the subframe. And then i did unbolt the rack and that driver side bolt kicked my ass for a while.
@@Usmanthemecano I found another video showing a similar control arm replacement work on AWD 2008. He got the steering rack off so that the engine and transmission weren't blocked by the front differential/driveshaft when lifting up. I am wondering whether this is necessary on the 2018 AWD.
You dont grease any shaft for futere removal beside now you need alignment after you disconect shocks from nuckle instead a lower joint bolt not a best advice but it will work
So what led to you checking the coil. I’m working on a 98 Dakota with the 3.9 I have replaced the fuel pump. I have no. Codes stored. I had some miss fire codes to start with. And now I cleared them but still have the no start. I see rpm movement in the gauge I pulled the no1 plug and checked spark there I have spark. But I still can’t seem to figure why it won’t fire. Won’t even pop off on either.
You did a good job with the cleaning but the intake port needed to be cleaning too to get rid of the carbon build up…if the port is dirty, the EGR won’t able to flow freely…I’m going to work on mine soon…
Thanks for the tips on removing the 10mm bolts from the brackets in the bottom. That top middle bracket bolt attached to the plenum manifold took me a few hours of hopping left/right to get a flex wrench in there.😩 I will try to remove the camshaft sensor harness bracket to give me more slack to lift up the bulk wiring. I feel ya' brother about venting and 🤬 those Japanese engineers that designed the locations of the manifold and valve cover...😂.
So i replaced my "AGS", i deleted the check engine, the scanner is just blinking red on and off for "(Fuel, Evap, 025, EGR" ) when i turned the car on it also did a sweep. The P059F code went away yet the other keep blinking. I know they have to do with emissions. Do i have to drive the vehicle until it relearns everything so it can get ready for emissions? And do the shutter recalibrate themselves?