Nice fix! I strongly dislike having to have hydraulic hoses made, they never come out the way I want them to. That took some ingenuity but that should work well! Hope you have a good one!
I have done this very same job on a model 12 baler. To remove the slotted screws, grind the slotted head off, down flush with the stripper band. Pop the band off and grind the bolt flush with the mounting bracket. Spay penetrating oil on the bolt. There is enough of the bolt sticking through the other side and enough room to get a pretty good size pair of vice grips on it. Work the vice grips/:bolt back and forth a little and the remainder of the bolt will screw right out. I stopped attempting to use a slotted screw driver. I have had 100% success getting the bolts out. I think it will be easier than breaking out a welder.
Would you say I need to adjust my twine disk if it’s not catching the twine - it doesn’t catch it and hold it so it goes down and gets wrapped around the knotter - this happens when I load it with fresh twine
If it only happens when loading fresh twine it might be the twine tensioner, right where the twine exits the twine box. It could also be the needle alignment, twine sweeper, or the twine disc, or maybe something else. I can't say what it is without seeing it, but those are good places to start.
Nice work! Glad you got your knotters sorted out. I've had trouble with my Allis baler getting that same finger stuck and not tying. I think my problem is a not strong enough return spring. It works ok if I keep my RPM's low, but if I try to run at PTO speed I have problems. It's an old baler too, so it isn't going to be perfect. Thanks for sharing! Hope you have a great Independence Day!
I believe they are in the range of 1/4-20 or 1/4-28, but that's almost as good as a wild guess, I would have to take one out to verify. Generally I take one out and run to town with it to make sure I get the right one.
I hate to say what I paid for it. It's actually not much. The true cost comes from refurbishment and repair to get these things field ready. That's where the pain in the wallet comes from...
Pretty neat machine! I have to stay off auction sites LOL. Too much crap would follow me home. That's a good looking old Dodge you've got. Glad you made it home safely! Hope you have a good one!
Sometimes the "boring" work is the most important, you're making good progress on the old girl! It's cool you had your helper with you in the shop too!👍👍 Hope you have a good one, Sir!
I know this is old thread but thought you may still look at comments. I have massey 12 baler like yours and I need to replace the bill hook on one side. Can you give any input on how to accomplish that. I cannot find a way to get the bill hook out??
I enjoy your videos. They have helped me a lot with my massey 12 setup. I do have a question though....have you tried to remove the bill hook on that massey 12 baler.? I cannot find a way to get the bill hook out. Just curious?
I’ve had the masturbators about three of them through the years. I can make them work, but everybody went to the big Baylor and so did I so don’t need them anymore. Had a 47 international bet string tie, good square baiter not many problems with that.
He’s timing the Baylor correctly I’ve had three of them Massey 12 m two internationals three John Deere brand new Massey 12 tightener broke on the back tightener had his time at the first three days we had
I'm going to try this tomorrow on my IH 674. After several years of taking the carb on and off, checking and adjusting the float level to spec, a new carb kit, nothing has stopped the leaking. I decided I would lower the floats a lot next time. I am glad to see someone else put so much thought and work into it. Even better that the leakage stopped and the tractor ran fine. I hope for the same results.
U 😊😊 should took the time 2 find the paint color that's no ware near right 👉 😮 that looks bad it's 2 much pink looking 2 the paint I seen another tractor 🚜 😮 the was painted the same way / I did find the paint nos 4 it 😊😊 Sherwin Williams MASSEY HARRIS RED NO JK- 4O36R /MASSEY HARRIS YELLOW NO JK- 4649 /U should painted the tractor 🚜 😊 right 👉 😊 the 1ST time ⌚😮 U are not going 2 like the color later on then U wish U would've painted it right 👉 😊 the 1ST time ⌚😊 OMG 3 2 2O24
U have 2 have good sunshine ☀ 😊 and wind 🍃 😊 4 the hay 2 dry like it should if it doesnt U will have 2 take the tedder and ted the hay so it can the air has 2 be able 2 move through it in order 2 dry like it should 😊😊 and when its dry like it should be it should be just like a peace ✌😊 of card board when U pick it up then U can throw the hay bales all the way across the hay wagon and it will save your back and not feel the hay came out of the creek 😊😊 OMG 2 23 2O24
back when I started in the hay field I helped another fellow and we use 3 cut 5 or 6 cuttings every year and it was W a square hay and we would bale a 1,OOO bales a day thats going 2 make. 4 long days when U still have get the hay bales out of the field U still have 2 go back W a tractor 🚜 😊 and a hay wagon and its even worse when 2 people have 2 pick up all the hay bales by hand and throw them on the hay wagon then U still have 2 put the hay in the barn and at the end of the day U will be saying more than mamma 😮😮 U will be more than tired and sore and there will be no tossing or turning either when U go 2 bed 🛏 😊/😊😊 OMG 2 23 2O24
the cylinder head needs 2 be rebuilt next 😊😊 the vavles need 2 be laped and new valve seats and vavle springs and new vavle guides and check the cylinder head needs 2 be shaved U have 2 W a straight egde and a feeler gauge check and see if the feeler gauge will go under the straight edge 😊😊 the vavle adjustment is O16 thosand of a inch on the vavles /the old 6volt system I dont think much of it it turns 2 slow its dragging all of the and it just does turn the motor over 😮😮 12 volt much better and it turns the motor over alot faster 😊😊 OMG 2 23 2O24
alot of teactors havent 😮😮 anything done 2 the since they left 👈 😊 the factory years ago since they were brand new and regular oil changes and changing oil in the oil bath air cleaner is the life of the engine and U have 2 wash out the oil bath air cleaner and U have 2 use good motor oil not junk motor oil 😮😮 the engine needs 2 be rebuilt from top 2 bottom then U will have a new engine that runs better and has more power there is a parts no in the parts manual 😊😊 OMG 2 23 2O24
the starter shouldve took off and took 2 a shop and rebuilt a long time ⌚😊 ago they will do that 2 click ,click either will be a dead battery or the starter they will go click, click just like 2 and they will leave U in the middle of no where at the least time 😮😮 they dont make the 12 volt batterys W caps no more they are all sealed when they are gone there done take the old battery and turn it in 4 a core charge and get a new battery the more cranking amps the better 😊😊 2 23 2O24
the reading U have is wrong on the HP 😮😮it's 36 on the drawbar and 4O HP on the belt that's the correct HP ratings they are sea level correct that tractor 🚜 😊 is a 1952 model year and the engine is a 2O1 😊😊 OMG 2 23 2O24
Those discs did a nice job getting the paint off! I've had mixed results with chemical stripping, some paint comes right off and other paint just laughs at it. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not a paint/body guy. I'm working on an Oliver 770 now, the sheet metal needs a lot of tlc but it's not getting painted. At least not now. Thank you for the video, Sir! Hope you and the family have a good weekend!
Good ol calcium chloride. The absolute worst thing to use for ballast in a tractor tire. John Deere actually will void your warranty if you use it. Remember that air in your tire help traction and your comfort ride on your tractor. Any liquid is uncompressable and causes more stress and wear on the tractor. If you do feel you can't live without some fluid in the tires, never fill more than 50%. And stay away from anything calcium or expect more corrosion until the wheel fails.
With all that money you saved by buying the inexpensive bead buster you could buy a new hat and not look so poor. Also watching you use hand tools made me feel sorry for you . Get a battery impact wrench.
"If it ain't broke, I'm going to try to fix it anyway..." that sounds familiar! Good job getting her running! It's funny how so many of those old engines were designed to run with low oil pressure, I think the spec for my WD45 is 12psi at operating temperature at rated speed (which is only 1400 rpm). Thanks for sharing!
It is a standard/quality design but I wouldn't limit myself to this model. Condition of the machine, and availability of spare parts is much more important. Look around the scrap yards of your local farmers and find a baler that was used commonly. Then find the baler in the best shape that you can
I'm looking at one identical to this but it's said to be a 1960 3000 utility, gas.....can't find any info on it, is it the same when it comes to ordering parts? I need to service the brakes and the steering is slow/rough. Thanks for the video!
My baler has about ¼ inch of play where the connecting rod meets the plunger. Is that normal? My #12 makes a very loud crashing noise, the bottom of the knives hit together. Any suggestions?
My Massey # 10 took me 3days to get it free . I finally used an air chisel to get the wear bars out ,and backed the baler up to an old birch stump and yarded it out with the tractor . 😂😂😂 Good times !
I found a recent video where you tried the baler you did all that work on . Must of been first crop 2023. After watching the bale chamber/ plunger repair I didn't anything but metal to metal it rides on. So I tried to bring something up on Massey Ferguson balers . I found 1 history on Massey Harris/Massey Ferguson square balers. Called ( Dominant Massey Ferguson balers). It stated, the all-new 703 baler had been developed and launched in 1957 and was very similar to what they put put for the next 20 years or more My dad had the small compact # 3 M.F. square baler But I'm interested in what the plunger slide on and how the knives get "adjusted", not to hit each other. as I tried working on an international sq. baler of same era. And I couldn't figure out how to adjust the knives. So the Massey article said, Roller bearings for the plunger were still some way off, but at least MF had now moved away from metal wear pads sliding on metal rails, and a new composite wear pad was specified This is about the early 60's late fifties balers by Massey , also states... Due to the position of the chamber shear knife, the static knife could no longer be shimmed, as in the 701, to provide the accurate knife adjustment. This resulted in more adjustment being required in the plunger guide rails, and so adjusting screws down the left side of the chamber were provided. Is this how you adjusted your knives? there referring to the new generation 1957 (#703) massey square baler
I was glad it fit back in I was a little worried as I know how much work every little think is, I'll check for the next video, as it says this was 9 months ago
I seen a # 12 M. F. baler for sale today for $200 cost me $100 for gas maybe I'll buy it and mess around with it. Now i now what he means by IT'S NOT STUCK I guess the bale chamber to plunger rust up if left out side . Maybe all balers do, I don't know But I think these do quicker. the needles are broken and it's out off time and no thrower. Nice work showing us the bale chamber and plunger repair My dad bought a number 3 in the middle or so1960's worked good for him yes it missed a a few bales you would have to clean up at the end of a 10 acre field. not a bad baler and his was only the small #3 with sliding round disk on the pickup instead of a tire
