Put it in the game folder and if you run the V1.3 (or Steam version) it will show up. It doesn't exactly say "DLC" but there will be more cars and tracks in custom race mode.
Some servos and gyros that can be programmed via SBUS are not compatible with ELRS receiver. I don't know which one is at fault so you can try and connect the servo directly to the receiver and see if it still works. If so then the problem is at the gyro. If you use a 4 or 5 channel receiver then you can config the output of channel 1 (where you connect the gyro/servo) to pin 4 or 5 on the receiver to avoid the glitch.
@@tl924 I'm not sure what could trigger the gyro to not working but I think you should try using the gyro without channel 3 or the gain connected first to see if the gyro works correctly. Also try and plug the servo into channel 3 or whichever you set the VR (for gyro gain) to see if that also works. If the gain adjustment moves the servo then use that channel for the gain adjustment. It might be that the output isn't mapped to the channel correctly in the settings so the gyro stays at 0 gain.
I can’t believe how many people take the time to make these videos, but really don’t show you the stuff you need to see to get the motor out it would take like two more seconds to have a camera showing you where you’re actually unscrewing something but the disco music is awesome!
That's really strange. If you cycle through all the settings and none of it brings the speed back to normal then it's either the battery or the motor. Try another battery first if you have a small 2s lipo. The motor should not break this easily.
I made it myself, cut from the movie. Here's the link. drive.google.com/file/d/14ZuEQbFtVH7sDa-JgkqpHMpa4i72byiT/view?usp=sharing Put it in EdgeTX SD Card \SOUNDS\en\SYSTEM
My radio did come with the 1000, however the ER4 receivers still come in at 50. Just changed it to 333hz thanks to your video. I noticed you can go higher, will it hurt the servos?
@@AllramYT This one has pretty good ground clearance so it's quite good if you have a thick carpet. Otherwise if the carpet is not that thick (if you have office carpet or similar) something like Jiabaile 1/43 is also really good and way cheaper.
Great one. I've upgraded mine with big tires, but do you know how to found some compatible metal upgraded, my axles and "gear" links are broken. Thx for your work Beaver
Unfortunately the spares are really hard to come by. You'll have to search for something like HP 1/24 crawler and it might show up so I don't know if you can find the specific upgrade.
I don't have EVO so I don't think I'll do it. But it's basically reverse of this one. You can pull the long shaft out and install the short one and that's it.
@@reekooism They tyres are replaceable. There's no available spare for other parts. I don't think they'll make it fixable with parts replacement either. I guess we'll have to mix and mod the parts if anything is broken.
The original resolution of the vinyl is really low so I don't know what else can you do except changing the setting when you save and try something else with better compression.
Put the motor into the mount first then push the gear in. If it's the brass gear then you can't put it back easily unless you have a tool. Use the other gears that came with the car instead. For the spur gear on drivetrain, it has a notch so you'll have to spin it around until it clicks in.
I’m just getting into rc cars and trying to learn as I go. I want to get into racing, not drifting, so which of these two versions would be best for someone with that goal in mind? I feel like the 284010 with the improvements might be better but I’m not sure. I plan to get multiple and get them to a point where I can race them around a track together and have fun, not crashing into walls or traction rolling so I know I will be learning a lot to get them to that point. Also do you know anything about the versions off Alibaba for the k9 series that have an lcd transmitter or a v2 after them? I plan to watch all your videos on these cars so sorry if you have answered this before.
284010 with improvements will help a lot with the touring or grip driving. I don't know if the upgrades have been implemented to the previous versions yet so get the new one just to be sure. I don't think the upgraded transmitter with LCD makes any difference. It doesn't tell you any crucial information and you can just look at the dial position to tell how much is the throttle rate or trim you have. Still, if it's the same price, having a screen is nice. Don't worry about the questions. Please feel free to ask.
@@BeaversHobby so with everything you have seen and tested, knowing I want to make these the best racers I can, would you recommend the 284010? I’ve also joined the RCGrouos forum and see you have posted a lot in there so I am working my way through the 243 pages but want to get my order placed soon if possible. And thank you for all the videos on these awesome little cars! Edit: and what does the wheel base being different between the 284010 and k989 mean? Body options or is it more than that?
@@nickgrady3221 Yes, I would recommend the 284010 for racing. The wheelbase is 98mm out of the box for all versions. The new one just can't extend to 102mm. The difference is the body compatibility as you understand. And also longer wheelbase will give the car a bit more stability but less agility. 98mm has good balance so there's nothing to worry about. As for the upgrades you only need wheels and tyres. Mini-Z AWD wheels will fit and Mini-Z radial tyres work on most surfaces. I drive touring cars on upside down EVA mats and this config works well. It will also work on carpet and RCP.
The plug is JST-PH. Mostly we use Atomic, GL and Marka racing batteries. These can be found in Mini-Z racing shops. Check out Wolfram RC or Micro RC Syndicate for US/NA www.wolframrc.com/shop/lithium-polymer-packs/97 www.microrcsyndicate.com/shop/batteries/35 Or Mini-Z Racing Italia if you are in Europe. GNB (Gaoneng) is also very good. Here's one on aliexpress. The 3P (3 pin) version is what you need. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003274681868.html Be careful, this is the HV version. If you use it for racing it might not comply with the rules (overvolt). Here's the standard 7.4V version. The size is a bit different though. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002571544957.html
Hello mr Beaver, i think about purchasing the mt12 4in1 variant but do you know if the irangex external module is better than the one integrated on the transmitter?
It'll work the same. I don't see any difference when using the internal module (of the TX16S) and the external. Basically it depends what will you use the most, ELRS or 4-in-1. If you mainly use it with cars that support 4-in-1 protocols then getting that version is better because you don't have to keep plugging in and out the module. Mostly because it doesn't fit inside the carrying case and you'll have to take the module out when putting the transmitter in the case. I use the ELRS because I install my own receiver and it's one of the fastest protocol available.
