WARNING this will RUIN your property ; it must NOT be done ; There are ongoing legal cases because of this incorrect "method" You can NOT add cavity-wall insulation to cavity-walls that are ALREADY built. Cavity-walls must NOT be bridged with " insulation"("insulation" touching the outer walls inside the cavity), or else moisture will transmit from the outer damp wall , accross the abridging insulation to the inner wall ! Ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this !
WARNING: This is VERY WRONG and will RUIN your property ; there are ongoing legal cases against this incorrect "injection insulation" SCANDAL. Cavity-walls must NOT be abridged with insulation(insulation touching BOTH outer and inner walls) ,or else moisture will transmit from the damp outer wall across the abridging insulation to the inner wall ! (Polystyrene is not used anyway ) Ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of all this !
Is the BASF Walltite certified for Ireland? and is it available under the SEAI grant? have a bungalow with 50mm original insulation and was pumped with grey bead insulation some time back. Would be interested to know more on it all
What would you have in your own house if it was an existing build? Carbon silver beads or that foam you mention in the video? Does the foam not have risks of pushing bricks out or cracking joints etc? Can you explain further why the beads here were removed? Do you have many jobs removing these beads and if so, is there a reoccurring issue that’s to blame? What’s the K value of the foam? Generally speaking are the two best options of cavity wall insulation the beads or that foam?
Show us a way to take this out ... and funny thing is, there is no way. Once you install this sh!t in your basement, you start getting humidity problem because it chokes the airflow and the basement can't breath anymore - and eventually end you up getting mold. You must then spends thousands to get the mold cleaned and then spend another few thousand dollars to buy a good dehumidifier for the basement alone .... moral of the story... NEVER EVER EVER put this sh!t in your basement. NEVER EVER !!
Their is no structural advantage with low density or 1/2 pound foam, R-Value of 3.4 per inch is completly insuffient for a roof deck. Using high density foam or 2 pound foam at R6.8 or greater R-Value and leaving a natural 2 inch air gap would have serve his home owner better. 1/2 pound foam will leave many air pockets that create condensation and act like a big sponge, it gives the foam industry a bad name.
I have just had this installed and it's come through the loft as my cavity was open. Not a problem as I was aware the cavity was not sealed but it doesn't stick together and is in similar state to how the beans in a bean bag are. Surely the adhesive should bond these together?
@Ralph Reilly it's quite funny you say that. The company's that used to install it now charge ppl to remove it with the same machines they used to put it in .
Completely blocking up the airspace between roof rafters and inner and outer surfaces of a roof is unwise, roofs work well when they are well ventilated, (draughty). If you want to insulate a 'loft' space it is best to leave a significant gap, 1"- 2" between the insulation and the outer skin of the roof and ensure that this space remains draughty or put the insulation over the inner plasterboard layer. You may also need to give consideration to ventilating the 'loft' space. Warm air, (from the house below) rises, (into the roof space), and if damp, and cannot escape may cause problems.
@@jimhendrix7776 Tell this to my kid who has brown dripping water on her ceiling. Our energy efficency recommended foam insulation and the local company sprayed it into our kneewall. Now we have snake dripping of liquid. I'm afraid below our roof is molding. It happens on extreme temp days or changes. We don't know what to do. We don't have vents. So we do have this problem.
Im a if the house has cavity walls they are their for a reason The amount of houses that have the air ventilation bricks filled with silicon and then suffer with damp is quite astonishing.
what a con, I bet most of the companies who are removing it were putting it on 15 years ago. Both at the cost to the tax payer. It's as big a con as the rising damp industry
I'm building my house with cavity walls made of CMU as the interior masonry wythe and bricks as the exterior masonry wythe, and I'm considering doing a hybrid insulation with 4in of open cell foam on the interior face of the exterior masonry wythe (for its air barrier / thermal + acoustic properties) and 4in of Rockwool on the exterior face of the interior masonry wythe (mainly for its acoustic properties). In 20 or 25 years' time will I be able to remove the foam without damaging the mineral wool? Or will I need to remove both? At that point in time how exactly will I install the new hybrid insulation? If that proves impossible I will consider using only open cell foam...
You guys do excellent job on spray foaming roofs. Every video I see the vent baffles. So many spray foamers don't use baffles. Then the sheeting rots off the roof. I use rockwool insulation on masonry. The rockwool allows masonry to dry. Masonry loves to wick moisture. I don't use icf blocks because masonry never dries properly with icf. Climate maybe different were you are. We spray foamed out ice shanty and roasted in it with just a lantern. Have you ever thought of using baffles or capillary break on masonry between foam to allow it to dry?
Great job. Glad to see the roof vent baffles. Really those concrete block should of been painted with moisture barrier from beginning. I only paint on moisture barrier on inside of concrete blocks. So the moisture heads outside and don't stay indoors.
