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Start riding with a Burley Coho XC trailer, since it’s half the price of the Bafang kit AND you can carry everything needed to fix and repair everything you mentioned. And you will look cool AF ! ✌️😂✌️
BBSO2 here. Four years old, 6,400 miles (mostly tarmac) and no chain issues, or anything else. Just use that power intelligently and you should be fine. And be sure to fit a shift sensor.
i just got a Blaze Elite 2000w escooter.. and its chain driven, motor between the back wheel and the seat. i thought that was kinda strange lol. but idk, it seems to be ok. lots of torque! definitely louder lol, sounds, even feels, like a dirt bike lol. but all in all, idk.. id think a chain would be a weakness. but im sure hub motors have weaknesses too. maybe chain drive is better cause the chain might snap before the motor breaks. idk lol
I would not agree. Bafang lacks torque sensing. I rather went with the Tongsheng TSDZ8 Turbo, which is a 750W new motor with a torque sensor. Also you have Toseven DM-01 which is a torque sensing motor of 1000W. Most expensive option is CYC Photon and other models, also torque sensing.
No1. A broken chain IS NOT the motors fault. That's as stupid as saying Audi's are rubbish because some of them get punctures. No2 More nonsense, YOU are obviously hard up for cash to be making up a pile of crap like this, once again, it's as stupid as saying a Bugatti Veyron is not a good car because it costs more than a Lamborghini Revuelto. These ARE NOT problems, CLOWN!
Hey man I'm looking for a commutter bike to get me about 10 miles to work and back. Would you still reccomend this, something different, or maybe a conversion kit?
I run a G62 geared hub motor locked for regen along with a mid drive bbshd. such a fun build for climbing steep trails and on the way down I can use the motor for braking which saves my brake pads and it gets a little charge back to the battery too. Thinking of building a new bike with G62 and CYC X1.
No he was saying if you are going to be riding on flat ground in the city and care about efficiency, and part longevity you are better off with a hub motor. The benefits from the extra power don't put weight the cons if you are just tooting around town. But wheelies. But powa. My 750w fat tire hub goes up pretty dang steep hills so if you have like a dual hub motor bike or even a 1000w single hub then hills are going to be NO issue on hubs unless your climbing mountains. Mid drives are nice for getting across crosswalks and what not from a stop say if there's cars coming. Safer in that sense.
Bro you really aren't making sense. Mid drives are simply better all around. That's why they cost more. Perform better... last longer. Just Fix your chain ⛓️
The ideal drivetrain is a gates belt drive and rear IGH. There's no real reason a middrive should be much more expensive...the companies do that because they can. My opinion. But we live in the reality we live in. .
Ok, let's talk these in order. 1) This is a problem mainly affecting Mid-drives with cadence sensors (bafang bbs02/bbshd, for example), not Mid-drives over all. This is also quickly reminded by carrying a spare chair and a few quick links. 2) Number 2 is a non-issue and a can of worms. A hub drive is not directly comparable to a Mid-drives and vice versa. What matters is torque, a hub motor needs about 2 to 3 times the wattage to produce the same torque. Put simple, a hub drive needs 2 to 3 times the wattage to produce the same power (torque). 3) Complexity. Having worked on both I can say, not really. There are 4 basic components to an e-bike. Motor, (motor) controller, battery and finally miscellaneous. Most Mid-drives combine motor and controller into one unit. 4) Comparability. This is the first real argument to choose one over the other, but is subjective. You just need to pick the one that best meets your needs. 5) Noise level. Like 4 it's really subjective and dependent on the motor. I've heard both “noisy” and quiet motors of both types over the years. 6) Group clearance. That is a Mid-drives retrofit kit (again , bbs02/bbshd for example) problem and not a Mid-drives problem. Purpose made Mid-drives bikes don't have this problem. 7) Efficiency. This is simply wrong. A Mid-drives going through the gear system is much more efficient than a hub motor. If you don't think so remember that the gearing allows a “weak” human, at 200-300w, to travel multiple times their walking speed with the same effort.
I hate hubs bc changing punctured tube is a hell of a problem. Especially in self-made ebikes. About broken chains in ebikes: -was it strengthen chain for ebikes ? -was properly maintained & lubed ? -do you have properly regulated rear derailleur ? -do you shifted it properly ? -do you shifted it in inappropriate situation? -is your chain old, used and stretched ? -do you ride on combination of gears that curves your chain sideway? -do you rode on proper cadence ? human recommended is 80-90, anything lower will make your knees hurt over time (lower cadence = higher torque) I really doubt chain will broke on its own, without a reason. Power isn't that dangerous for it, but torque & side-curving-gears with a little bit of wear make things happen.
For example a 500 Watt hubmotor has not the same great torque as a Bafang BBS02 500 Watt. Hubmotor can be noisy, depending on the gears inside and/or the controller. Hubmotors for example 1'000, 2'000, 3'000 Watt are very heavy. Middrive and chain break: Take a chaintool and missing links with you.
Another good thing about these is because they are from a big company you dont have to worry about finding spare parts or information about repairs. Its all out there. Alot of the other conversion kits out there come from small start ups where there is no guarantee that they will still be around when you run into issues. Also, it's nice being able to pick up spare parts on aliexpress and amazon for cheap instead of directly from a company for crazy rates.
Efficiency is definitely something a Mid Drive motor wins over a hub motor as long as they have similar specs, as the mid drive uses multiple gears when used properly.
Lol. I guess losing your chain would be bad even without a motor. Five bikes with mid-drives, combined 5k miles, and have zero broken chains. All our bikes have torque sensors and we don't use throttles.
😎👀 got two of them, my wife is mad at me because I did the same thing and one day she took a ride to the DG 😮😂😂and almost ran into a car😂😂 going to fast
Wrong in every way . He needs simple toys. I would put my BBSHD up against against any e-mtb . Not complicated for some people. 3-4 times less expensive than a Trek production and with a throttle and way more top and low end. My custom frame hard tails are more fun than imaginable. I’ll never ride another manual bike under any circumstances. If you really want to set your hair on fire, put on body armor and take on a big EUC. You will have to grow some …… though. About 5 times the power and no hands required.
mid drive bikes are more efficient if you use the correct gear , and maintain motor rpm at which the motor is happy and efficient, it's like this at 10rpm its 70% efficient at 200rpm its 85% efficient... and then at full rpm 400 its 75% efficiency, with a hub motor if your motor rpm are at the wrong speed your efficiency might be lower than the mid motor...
There's always a fix for a broken chain and of course you would have extra links with you wouldn't you? Don't hubs hubs snap spokes with great regularity. I know which I would prefer.
Nah, I am not persuaded, my bike looks the same as yours, I have the 750W and its quiet. To the viewers...I bought an eBike chain that is higher tensile and I used the chain clips, (do not pin it or it will break). Mine hoots and I love it!
So you wouldn't be walking if the bike had a hub motor? Broken chain with no spares/tools = walking, whether the bike has mid, hub or NO motor! If you don't learn this lesson via first-hand experience you should learn it from the zillions of stories from those who did.
One of the worst videos I've seen on the subject. I would guess you have never ridden a hub drive ebike and are ignorant of their flaws. Next time, please, write down your talking points and review them for quality before you release them into the world
WARNING: ⚠"UNITED KINGDOM BUYERS, PLEASE READ CAREFULLY" I RECENTLY PURCHASED - 20 APRIL 2024 - WITH MY OWN HARD-EARNED MONEY THE ENGINE PRO 2.0. I HAD VERY HIGH EXPECTATIONS FOR IT, AND THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED. It's important to note that non-RU-vidrs, like myself, who are enticed by videos showcasing the fully unlocked versions of the Pro 2.0, may be in for an enormous and very bitter disappointment. I, too, fell for this and purchased the 2.0, expecting a thrilling 27 mph ride {packaged received on the 2nd of May 2024}. For this reason, I am still determining if, before this date, the Engine Pro and Engine Pro 2.0 have been sold with the actual feature allowing you to unlock these bikes to full power}. However, I was shocked to discover that the speed was locked to 15 MPH. This renders the 750-watt motor and 75 Nm torque completely useless, as it's impossible to reach a speed that would genuinely challenge this level of power. Supposedly, to unlock the speed, you enter the secret menu by pressing + & - simultaneously, then get to 8p, press info on the side, then proceed to increase the speed from 15 mph to 30 mph {if you are going on private land). Well it is locked to 15 mph and you will not be able to increase it no matter what you do. Furthermore, the ride is not just disappointing; it's downright frustrating. The power surges, only to abruptly cut off when you hit the 15 mph top speed. Then, it gradually decreases until it reaches 12 mph, and it surges again to bring your speed back up to 15 mph, causing you to jerk back and forth like you're riding a camel in the Sahara desert, AND THERE IS NO WAY TO ALTER THIS. Forget about all the supposed power the Engine Pro 2.0 has if you can only do 15 mph. Consider this: Imagine driving a Ferrari or a Lamborghini with immense power and torque but limited to a 15 mph top speed. You'd be cruising with a powerful engine and tech to reach higher power and torque, but it would be pointless. This is the Engine Pro 2.0 in a nutshell; you have a powerful motor and capabilities, which means you're carrying extra weight for no good reason; you'd be better off with a much lighter 250-watt motor, which means less strain on the battery. The throttle is a complete joke and utterly useless. Yes, it's possible to activate it-but guess what? It only propels you to a 4-mph speed, which is only useful if you need to walk with the bike beside you. That’s it. If you're at a traffic light and expect the throttle to assist you in taking off, forget it. It won't budge; you have to pedal. Also, I went as far as taking it to a few Ebike specialists. After doing several checks and running several tests on the Engine Pro 2.0, they concluded and explained that the manufacturer fully locked the bike. I repeat, IMPOSSIBLE; it is impossible to unlock it, as several marketing videos show. I CONTACTED ENGWE, AND THEY JUSTIFIED THE NONSENSE AND DODGY FALSE ADVERTISING BY VOMITING ABOUT THE UK LAW. BLAH BLAH BLAH, THIS COMPANY ARE BAST@RDS; THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY ARE DOING. To make clear, I am not preaching about breaking the law; I want a bike that you can fully unlock when you are on private land, which is where I ride all the time and then lock back to 15 mph, disable the throttle as the UK law indicates when taking it on public law regulated roads. I HAVE THE RIGHT TO SEND IT BACK AND HOPE FOR A REFUND. So far, Engwe is not responding to my pleads for my money back; they clearly don’t like to hear about returns and refunds, sure, so this company, Engwe, sticks by the UK law when it comes to speed but is NOT interested in UK law when it comes down to full refunds. I doubt very much that RU-vidrs don’t know what is going on. I doubt they are unaware they are getting an unlocked version (not sold unlocked in the UK), but I doubt they are unaware as these are paid-for reviews; I should have known better. No one takes the trouble to do a review saying wonderful things about a product for free. COME ON!! HOW STUP£" AND NAIVE I'VE BEEN. Again, unlocking the Engwe Engine Pro 2.0 is impossible if you buy it in the UK. STEAR CLEAR! I am extremely disappointed with Engwe and RU-vidrs, whom I no longer trust; they sell their positive review videos for brand-new bikes, which they can easily recycle into money by selling them. In addition, RU-vidrs either verbally advertise the link to the bike down below or it will be there, and every time fools like myself buy a bike following the link of a RU-vidr, they cash in. So, of course, they want these bikes to be sold; it is a win-win situation for them.
go into your settings and you can find what's says power gear. turn it up to 9 and you have 9 PAS levels. found mine today . I have that display and stock it's set at 5
this is not a bike this this one more big mistake .. Shame on the company that sells it ...sells a bicycle for 1500 euros and they have put a bell that has 0.90 cents, as well as the axis where the pedal is, it is very high from the ground, with the consequence that when you pedal, your foot should reach the handlebars and when it goes down, you should not straighten the leg , the brakes are not hydraulic, the key is from the bottom and you still have to bend down, they haven't put floor mats for the back passenger either... suspension in the middle does not only have bottles IF YOU BUY IT, YOU WILL REGRET IT, especially the PR model, only the last model is good ,I didn't know that I had to have at least 1 and 90 height .... my mother made me short 1.75