In this channel I share my small projects around science and technology. Making stuff, repairing stuff, understanding how it works and how to make it better.
I dont think having the ballscrew offset on the X axis is helping accuracy very much. Id prefer to go for a smaller ballscrew mayber 10mm or even 8mm and run it through where the original leadscrew was. Your mounts also dont look very rigid at all. You need solid couplers and I think a better option for mounts would be thicker aluminium plates supported by 4 pillars. All this could be made on the lathe fairly easily without the needs for an external supplier.
You may be right. I did put 12mm ball screw later and it got better. Yet, it is possible to put it beside, but you require a hugely more rigid connector.
You can buy it - it just need a bit of hassle and paperwork. It is not hard at all. Regarding the alternatives, please read the review in the video description. I haven't tried these though...
Excellent, this is very useful, 45 year in engineering and I have never heard of this. I am using using a lot of 316L and Inconel alloys in various state of oxidation, this will give a brilliant way of discriminating between them. Thank you.
Nice video. Better than most websites I can find. I've been playing around with polishing some screws and washers. It's hard to get consistent results. Often the surface looks bright but under a microscope it becomes quite bumpy.
@@is_it_science it is very hard for me to get good results. I achieve more a matt finish, not shiny. I only have 12v supply 7.5 A and 5V with 1, 2 or 3 A. I think it depends a lot of the size from the workpiece. I have better results putting like eight rings on one go and not just one.
No - KOH for stailness would not work. H2SO4 would not dissolve it either. And it you had something soluble, that would not polish it - only dissolve and make as rough as it was.
@@is_it_science Nothing is missing, sometimes you speak too low, that some words are far too silent, that one has to stop, raise the volume, go back and listen again, but else, you´re perfectly understandable, despite your english not being perfect. Your video is very structured, but not structured enough for a beginner like me. Some hints in the timeline, suggesting that the next chapter begins, and naming the chapters of the video (in the timeline and the video itself, with some name-card appearing), would make it even better...
Eeeh. You are welcome to send me your pieces ... for a trial. You know, they could get dissolved... If serious, the same method shall work ok. Yet, beware that idem geometry could make polishing non-uniform.
This was my favourite technique fro preparing aluminium sampels for metallography in my mat eng course - few % nitric in ethanol, a few volts, couple of minutes! done!
Ого, понятно что с точностью. Надо подшипники конические в шпиндель. И шабрить все направляющие, планки и сопряжения разборные на прилегание по краске хотя бы. Просто ИЧ отгибы пружинным безменом измерьте относительно суппорта. Там будут десятки сейчас, вот оно и не режет. Надо хотя бы в сотку на 10 кг тяги уложить (а лучше на 50 кг). PS под станиной штатные ноги на профтрубу со стенкой 5-8 мм посадить (или 15-20 мм полосу), раз в пять станину саму гнет меньше.
Полмиллиметра это как то уж очень многовато. Наверное эти тонкие нежесткие кронштейны надо выкидывать? Ну или как то их большего сечения вырезать? Или поправок после контрольной проточки и измерений на паузе после неё хватит для нормальной точности? Только тогда код надо параметрический для машининга писать-генерить.
Great video, very useful for my planned conversion. Do you think it is worth adding a gear reduction system for increased torque? I'm thinking about using a belt and some pulleys.
Thanks James. Everything is possible, but I have not found torque a major problem. I would love to have a lower speed and higher torque, but it is easier to focus on what we have. Making noisy gears to me a bit too much effort for little output. What I want is a good rotation speed indicator (with 1/100 turn readings) and computer-controlled speed
Mach 3 to start with; then Fusion 360. And it took forever to understand how to use Fusion for G-code. Possibly, I shall make a video on this at some point...
@@is_it_science Yea, that would be awesome to see how Fusion gets gcode saved. I'm all new to this, and using UCCNC software instead of Mach3 and vcarve pro for generating gcode, Fusion 360 looks very hard.
I would love to, but I am barely able to keep up with the other interests... It is surprising, why the Chinese do not do reasonably-priced CNC lathes....
