I have a gravel bike that is max 50 psi, but would you still recommend the 160 psi to bead it and deflate after? Is that pressure okay on the tyre? With the tyre already part off as I was going to change the sealant as changing brands, is it better then to still inject it through the valve? Is this to stop it spraying out if trying to bead it with it in? Good video, thanks.
The Pressure-Rite function is a good theory(which was one of the reasons I bought this pump), but your version does not work as marketed. It gets exponentially worse the higher the pressure of the unit, so there's less of a loss from the fork than from the shock. It needs a re-design. The rest of the pump is fine, it's just the funtionality of this connector.
@@adrianbeacon6421 Less pressure = more sag I know about the air in the hose theory, it just doesn't sound like that should sound when you try to remove it from the valve on the rear shock. It sounds exactly like air coming out from the valve together with the air in the hose itself. So, measure sag with pump attached. Then measure sag after pump is detached. You can do it several times to see if the sag will increase more and more. It's not really a problem with the fork because there's less than half the pressure than in the shock, so my issue is with higher pressures(200psi++).
The intent of this rack for a rear suspension bike is admirable, but the design is poor. Cantilevered over the rear with no support. Had a friend follow me on a trail, the rack move up n down uncontrollably and side to side motion was violent. More riding and the rack would blow apart. Had to fashion a brace to this control the violent motion. Lock out the rear shock on trail rides. Rack will not handle 26lbs.
I was hoping to see how hard is to swing the bike on the wall, if it has some smart function. But they cut exactly that scene off. So i guess it's bo easy way to get the bike on the wall
I just tried to put a masterlink together and broke mine too. These things are garbage. There's a tiny little slot where the masterlink is supposed to sit in a groove and hold it in place while you squeeze the link. Unfortunately, that tiny little piece of plastic breaks immediately and renders the tool obsolete unless you only plan to use it as a tire lever. Spend the money to get a better quality tool so you don't get stuck somewhere.
I have two Lineup Stand Max. In my opinion the legs fold in much too easily. When I want to push in a bike the stand slides a bit backwards and the rear legs fold in. So I always have to stand on one leg to put a bike in the stand. The legs also fold in when I want to move the bike with the stand a little bit. It would be nice if the stand comes with some accessories to lock the legs. The overall quality is good. But it's too pricey to accept this flaw. I get annoyed every time I have to use the stand.
The thread on the plastic Shrader Valve insert is easily stripped. Very poor quality material and it's beyond stupid that Topeak still don't show these reversing valve instructions on the pump or on its packaging. Buy another make.
Hi got a question hopefully someone can answer If my hose on my bike pump was damaged this should be an excellent replacemnt hose as it looks like it works by inflating than replacing the head when finished ? any way does any one think this was the correct hose to buy to replace my damaged hose or something thoughts please thank you!
Hello Topeak , Where can I get this stand in the US ? Can't find it anywhere online. I am in Southern California but any US based Online merchant site will do. Thanks
The MTX 2.0 rack has an additional cutout which enables the latch of the MTX 2.0 bag to hold in place. While the 2.0 rag is downward compatible, the old rag is not upward compatible.
