Thanks for your explanations of this undocumented device. My copy came today from Ali and I found, that I've to use 200mV/div at X channel and 2V/div at Y channel for a correct X-Y display. Is this normal behaviour or should I adjust the X amplitude higher (or maybe Y amplitude lower) ? Apart from this, everything is working fine, so I'm not sure if adjustment is recommended.
@@charlessmith833 Ok, I adjusted both channels in 1V/div. Easy going. Just wasn't sure if the output voltage/current would be affected. But I still see 4.8V AC there.
Hi Charles, I just was given an R-390A in non-working condition. It looks like it hasn’t been tech-terrorized, so am hopeful to get it running. Your (&Mack) solid-state conversion looks really intriguing, and would allow the RX to be run continuously for cheap! How can I contact you for the document? I did not see an email, nor know your call to look at QRZ. Tnx & 73… 😊
Seems the bezel points being in the wrong place was a factory error. I wonder how many others left manufacturing this way, and the serial numbers of those involved.
See: Ham Radio Magazine Feb. 1969 (pg. 26 - 36) article by Henry H. Cross, WlOOP " Converting a Vacuum-Tube Receiver to Solid State " ( about the BC-348 )
Watched your solid-state conversion for the HG10, the kit doesn't appear to be available on eBay, do you have the schematic? I have two and they drift as I'm sending, after they sit a few mins, they go back to where they started, but the op on the other end is continually tuning to stay with me. Any advice would be appreciated. de WA1YDK
You may still a soldering problem in the instrument cluster usually in the upper left area. Likely the solder has turned loose on one of the bigger surface mount resistors in that area. You can send it off to a rework repair place for a full repair and upgrade. There may be other soldering problems lurking on the board. Resoldering the board should be done by a qualified tech.
If you took insulated wires and peeled off the insulation you wouldn't expect the wires to still be safe to touch would you? I don't think it's a fair comparison to remove the shielding of these devices and then expect them to still work the same... Yes they work different under those circumstances but that's not the circumstances the manufacturer expects you to use this device, and that's to say they very well might have identical performances when fully assembled.
El mejor video explicativo de una tina ultrasonica era lo que buscaba..... Gracias por tu aporte... . Cuando harás la segunda parte si es que lo tienes pensado??
Gracias por su comentario. No tengo otro video sobre este ultrasonico. Esta todavia funcionando perfectamente. Si falla otra vez puedo hacer otro video.
@@charlessmith833 gracias por tu respuesta... Estaré atento a otro video que tu hagas sobre la tina ultrasonica es muy ingeniería tu forma de enseñar.... Te deseo lo mejor y que sigas adelante
Hi Charles, do you still sell the conversion manual to convert the BC-348? I am very interested in getting a manual from you and making the mod on my 348. Thanks, Don KC1IEA
Simple fix. Add a 5 volt source to the dark green / yellow stripe wire on the left connector. I used a 12 volt source with a reducer to 5 volts. The problem is in the circuit board not the connector. Easy fix and only removing covers.
8 graticules in x/y mode, how many volts/graticule did you set the scope to ? as I would like to be able to measure the curve parameters ie Volts / Current of the DUT , PS I took your advice re 24v power supply .
Google Huntron tracker and you will be enlightened . made a few in my time . still have a TEK 210 which is a fancy version with comparison function . Hameg oscilliscopes have a basic version even up to the HMO1202. The visual representation is an easy way of judging junctions etc , testing zeners , comparisons to good board.
Bought mine 10 projects ago. When it arrived with zippo documentation, I literally went to aliexpress, nope, amazon, nope, ebay yup. OH, it's a VI Curve Tester! This no BS review is great FRANK! Thank you.😅
I rhink im going to replace the pots with better ones and use the rf shielding paint i paid too much for a while back haha. I might print or cnc a different enclosure so its not such an eyesore on my bench haha. Ive pretty much stopped buying from china but a second hand tek tracer is 2k Canadian with no guarantee of functionality haha. Guys im swimming in components if you want any gor free. If you live in Canada or the US. tens of thousands of parts i dont need. Over 100k leds of many types haha. Wima caps, motors, switches, perfboard, smd components. Lots of rc stuff ill sell dirt cheap. All brand new. Microcontrollers of all types. Ill even 3d print stuff for free for fellow enthusiasts if someone sends me the link to the file they want. The rc stuff is the only things id like to make a little money back on. I have too much stuff haha, isolation transformers, a 5watt laser thats brand new and comes with all the motors and such. I built one and then the wife bought one. I can send a 5lb package a week to anyone who wants stuff haha. Seriously. My email is attached to my channel. Or you can text me. I have guitar pickups and such as well. Im selling an rtx3090 too. 1050cad or 650usd lol or a trade. I have a ton of free stuff though so if anyone needs anything just ask and if i have it ill ship it no questions asked. My lab is too big and has spilled over into a vacant apartment i own in my basement hahaha
The problem causing the light to stay on has been diagnosed since. Turns out a capacitor on the actual board behind the cluster is acting up due to low solder flow. The fix is to resolder capacitor 821. Pretty simple fix once everything is taken apart.
Well, mine arrived DOA. One channel very low output of only about 5 mv even with the pot turned up full. No dry joints so I think it's the chip. They have helpfully removed the markings. Anyone know what clock chip they used? ( the big one near the BNC outputs)
Too many varieties out there. Follow the instructions. What can I say? To avoid a potential problem, you can use a variable power supply to see if it works on 5V. If not, you can try increasing the voltage little by little until it works. Do it carefully.
I just bought one of these; same model. I measured the 4 test frequencies, my unit: 30 Hz, 223 Hz, 2168 Hz, and 14,301 Hz. These move around a bit with temperature/on time, I see no problems. I’m very happy with the value for its price.
I had the bnc spark before I plugged into my scope so I never plugged it in. The other end of the cable was on an esd mat so I didn't want to plug it into my my rigol mso5354 or my old tektronix tds2002c. I have been in the hospital since it happened due to unrelated reasons but I could just use my isolation transformer after I check the internal connection since I just got home.
Ha, last time I came across the term *"cycles per second"* was in the UK in 1982 when using a Cobra 148dx radio it was how the legends were marked up on the front. Proper old school. ❤
"No power supply" "No input voltage information" Ahhh, Chinese electronics. Such a convenient, wide selection of inexpensive components, which can also be very inconvenient at times.
China is the land of crappy software engineering except for the consultant agency they hired to watch their citizens. It's bananas. I have rigol and siglent gear and while not cheap I was able to unlock every feature. I'm tempted to buy a tektronix curve tracer so I have it and never need to worry about another. Buy a second hand one I mean. The prices vary wildy. I know my local schools do not have one and I plan to donate it after I'm done but dropping 2000cad on an ancient one with no guarantee of functioning is alot. A friend has one that's broken but won't fix it or sell it so I can. Haha. I'd just replace all the opamps.
The mechanical instability is probably due to a tarnished rotor grounding spring on the main tuning capacitor. Disassemble it and scrub it with a Scotchbrite pad. Clean the groove in the shaft with deoxit and it'll solve at least *some* of the instability.
I have a manual for the BC348-H,K,L,R solid state conversion. The manual is $7.00 plus $9.65 Priority Mail. You will also need 8 special chokes for $1,00 each for a total of $24.65. If all the coils are present and there is no damage you should be able to do a successful conversion. The RU-vid video is called "BC348-H,K,L,R Solid State Conversion". My email is charlessmi1@gmail.com
Thank you Charles for making this video. I received this device today with no instructions. I would have been able to figure out how it works eventually, but I had no idea what supply voltage or polarity it required. 'Cycles-per-Second', not heard that term for many years !
It was the same with me, but I was determined not to be outdone so I spent the time to figure out what it was all about. I'm glad the video helped. I'm an old-timer so I use all the outdated terminology. I grew up with CPS, not hertz.
This is an incredibly thorough and informative video. Frankly, it converted me from a skeptical observer to a potential customer for this product! The manufacturer of the unit owes you a lot of credit (and I should think some remuneration as well)! Sincere thanks for your efforts.
Thanks for the video. 1) What button should be selected (low,med1,med2,high) when calibrating? 2) Have you seen latest version NI-210SU with inbuilt display and Li-Ion battery chargeable via USB? Does it matter much that it has no graticule or way to measure?
Any frequency should work for calibration. Actually you are looking for a pattern or curve more than for measuring. Use your scope in all cases. Not sure about the revised version.
A speaker output should always have a speaker attached or a load resistor equal to a speaker impedance. On tube amps it prevents voltages from spiking and burning out the transformer. On this small transistor amp it prevents the output transistor from being unloaded and out of control which can also cause failure.
I have a 170, serial number 4588 and the best info I can find says it calls for version 5 of the paperwork. I wonder what year this thing was made, and more importantly where I can find version 5. Thank you.
You can find a manual on eBay. Hammarlund produced issue 1 to issue 5. Stay away from issue 1, Any manual from issue 2 to issue 5 will be almost identical. Most of the differences were changes made around the T1 and T2 transformers. There were very minor differences also. These are 50's and 60's type radios. Not sure of the last date of production.
Thank you for this explanation. I foolishly thought there was a battery-powered oscillator inside to provide the test current. Now I have to look for a 24VDC adaptor and cable, but perhaps an old laptop PSU with 19VDC might work and the cable plug might be OK too...?
You need a transformer type power supply for better isolation and safety. The one I bought on Amazon is a transformer type, regulated and with the right connector. I think I paid $20.00. It is shown in the video.
I'll have to get one of those, it was not possible to use the bench PSU either as there is a 12V DC offset between the scope ground and the BNC ground on the curve tracer, the current drawn was over 0.6 A so I disconnected it asap! @@charlessmith833
at 0:57 you can see on the display window its showing the fahrenheit symbol and the mileage. im sure the dome light and the door ajar sound does not work either.
