#2 person. 1975 Small block L48 all original 100% complete car, w/o ac. Solid fresh frame. Love learning and appreciate the video. Corvette nut. Maybe one day a 427 Nice on the cold one on the right
I replaced the weather stripping around my back window and everything came out great. Putting the glass back in was a real pain. After leaving it in for over a month, I took it out, and it’s still just as difficult to put back in. It is nervy being so hard. Any follow up ideas to make it easier without leaking?
hey great video, how did you reattach the steering column to the stub shaft? i can’t figure out how to get it back on without fully removing the column or rack. thank you.
@ratfarm767 I recently bought a 1987 & 1986 for $3000 total. Is that a good price? One is kited out with a wrap new lift kit and more, but it's missing the engine. the other one is all stock, it has water damage. Do you think this was a good price?
Hard to say, but you probably did alright. 80’s C4’s with TPI are bomb proof cars mechanically. It all comes down to interior and exterior condition. A good c4 is usually only a couple grand more than a totally wasted C4. If the interior is trash… forget it, turn it into a race car.
top flight automotive and it was the import kit. everything fit decent with the exception of the strips that go down around the doors. Gotta get the US made kit for that.
GREAT VIDEO - you can actually install the window with roller on it from the top. The weather stripping needs to be removed then lower window down and install 2 nuts. Next lower window to lowest point and install weather stripping. Super video I did mine differently on 1976 corvette.
I've watched endless how-to videos on C3 restorations. This is the most detailed, informative one I've had the pleasure of watching. Thank you. Very helpful.
Good afternoon, which Tri Power package did you order for this conversion? Yheir site has quite a few. Looking to convert my 68 L71 to fuel injection. Thanks for posting these videos. They've been very helpful.
39610 is the part number on the box I purchased. They’ve made some improvements since I got my kit, hopefully some of the issues I’ve had have gotten resolved. Good luck on your project.
Not sure, I never drove the car with the carbs, I removed them before it was fully built. The carbs had better throttle response but that’s to be expected. I’ll keep you posted as I get more miles on this motor.
Great video! I just ordered a rebuild Alt for my ‘71 C3, but (unlike the photo on the website, which was vintage), the one that came is the newer style. I may look for an older casing and do this replacement. Can you tell me: Which of the two connectors (in the clip) is the “activation” wire? (1 or 2?)
Yea it came out great, I’m glad I did it this way. As far as the plug goes I’m not sure off the top of my head. I’ll bet a quick google search and you’ll find a diagram with the pinout. Good luck on that and your other projects. Appreciate your channel and have referenced your videos for several of my own projects. 👍🏻👍🏻
You absolutely knocked it out of the park with the work you've done. The yellow looks fantastic, especially with the black stripe. A factory body color is important. I'm not a big fan of custom colors on these classics. You did the right thing! Plus, the side pipes are a must. Excellent job!
yellow looks very good , and the black stripe fits the car. i had a inferno orange ss camaro and like you i wanted it silver, then red, then white. , your vette is fantastic
The black stripe breaks up the yellow. Shows the fender flares. Love your videos. Appreciate your knowledge. I have a 72 convertible that needs a little work. Your videos help me along the way. Thanks again
i know what u mean about wanting a precise lash adjustment process. in the interest of sharing here is what i use on my sbc’s with hydraulic lifters. with the engine in the #1 TDC (compression), adjust the following: exhaust -- 1, 3, 4, 8 intake -- 1, 2, 5, 7 (this is my personal method) instead of "rotate the push rod while turning the adjusting nut," I use a .0015" feeler gauge, between the rocker arm and valve stem, slowly tighten the adjusting nut until the feeler gauge "grabs." [i add oil to the feeler gauge so i can really feel the “grab”] at that point, you should be within .001" of zero lash. then adjust the nut 3/4 turn. this method seems a little more exact or precise than the "rotate the push rod" method, which IMO is a little too subjective. this should result in a more even adjustment across the board. either method will, however, work just fine. now, rotate the crank 1 revolution or 360° and adjust the following: exhaust -- 2, 5, 6, 7 intake -- 3, 4, 6, 8
Had the trailing arms rebuilt by Van Steele 2 years ago and went with the rubber bushings..... So far so Good!!! They also rebuilt my rear Diff. Went from 4:11 to 3:36. Not a racer, just a cruiser... They do Great Work!!! Highly Recommend!!! Mine is a 69 as well, 350-350
I have a '68 modified 427/435 that I'd like to convert to FITech tri-power. Thanks for going back and re-running part 2. In FITech's do's and don'ts they say the system can't be used with leaded fuel because of problems related to the lead fouling the O2 sensors. I need to run C12 which contains lead. What do you suggest? They also caution about exhaust leaks between the exhaust manifolds or headers and the side exhausts resulting in incorrect readings to the computer. Did you have any issues relating to that? Finally, have you and FITech figured out your throttle body issue? I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on this system because of the many comments on the internet about conversions that never ran correctly and literally ended up on a shelf. How successfully do-able is this? If I do the conversion I'll duplicate everything you did based on your RU-vids. How does your car run? Just curious, did you research the Holley efi prior to choosing FITech? - Dave
Hi Dave, If your running C12 I'd say your probably going to run into problems with fouling the 02 sensor but you could try contacting Fitech or any of the others and asking them about optional wideband 02 sensors that'll work with E85 alcohol. Most certainly would be cheaper per mile too. Those donut gaskets on the exhaust manifolds are pain in the ace for sure but I haven't really had any problems with leaks, took a little finagling but I got sealed up. As far as the throttle body issues go, I had 2 problems with the system in the first 200 miles, actually both happened at the same time. The first issue was the barrels on the front throttle body were machined incorrectly and the fuel spray pattern at full throttle would shoot the fuel up into the air cleaner. Fitech replaced at their cost and had it returned within a week. The second issue was that same throttle body had a bad injector that would get stuck at wide open throttle and flood the motor out. Still waiting on a replacement injector, shows it's been shipped UPS 2 day air so I will soon get that installed and do a final wrap up video on this system. Again, Fitech covered the cost of the injector. Overall, the first 200 miles the car ran fantastic, It starts up like a new car, first crank. If you saw the video (part 4) maybe, where the engine starts up for the first time in over a year.. that was real! It honestly hadn't been started up all that time and it cranked over and idled decent. System was fantastic up until the injector took a crap. If I was to invest more time and money into the system I would probably talk to fitech about getting a top shelf set of injectors and what they recommend. In regard to the research of these systems, I had originally planned on using the Holley Terminator system and doing an L88 intake with the L88 hood but in the end I decided to do the tri-power since I had already installed the intake and carburetors. The fi-tech is the only game in town for tri power so I really didn't research them too much. I'd say I'm on the fence about it, if I had to do it again I would probably do the L88 setup with the terminator... mainly just because of the simplistic nature of a single throttle body and the L88 hood is sweet!! Hope this helps, feel free to message with any other questions or concerns and good luck with the project :)
Ooof! Yea good luck with that! Sounds like my next project.. replacing the oil rings on my Chevy equinox. Gonna try to also do that with the motor in the car! Not looking forward to it. My buddy was able to remove the oil pan and replace the oil pump on his C4 with motor in. If he was able to do that, you should be able to get the rod bolts loose and pop them out. Good luck.
Keep in mind this video was recorded pre Covid. May also have been a remanufactured unit, don’t remember for sure. But a reman will have mostly new internal components minus the case and armature.
Glad I came across your video!! I had been seeing little pieces of rubber underneath my corvette before I had parked it for the winter. Had no idea where they had come from. After seeing your video, I went out and peeked at the the bushings on my trailing arms and sure as shit, the left side outer bushing is doing the same damn thing. The others seem to be okay though. Grrr…looks like I’ve got another project to do before the weather gets nice. My offset arms are not Van Steel, but a pair that I had picked up from a rebuilder up in Chicago area about 10yrs ago. They are poly bushings as well. Wondering if they came from the same supplier as wherever Van Steel got theirs from. Thanks for a great video! This helped me out greatly! Question though…would you mind sharing the part number of the replacement bushing kit? Where did you get them? Thanks again!
Yup! I feel your frustration! Wasn’t something I wanted to do that’s for sure. Only good thing about it was everything is new so it came apart easily. Thanks for reminding me, I had every intention of listing the part number but must’ve forgot. The bushings are Energy Suspension brand part number 33191G. Looks like Amazon is the best deal right now, no surprise there at 33.65 but eBay and rock auto have them also. Thanx for the kind words and good luck on the ole swapperoo 😀
Yeah I have known several people that have had the trailing arms bushings from Van Steel disintegrate. Me included. These companies advertise that the polyurethane components last for a lifetime but we are finding out that urethane degrades after a while. My buddy had a Snap On urethane dead blow hammer that fell apart sitting in his tool box. I'm debating whether to go ahead and replace my bushings with the OEM rubber bushings. Might be better in the long run.
Interesting to hear from people that have had this problem. This was the first time I ever had poly bushings fail. Looks like it’s more common than you’d expect. You might be right about the rubber, it dries up and gets ugly but usually doesn’t crumble and fall off.
@@ratfarm767 It makes me wonder where Van Steel is getting its bushings, and maybe they are some poorly made cheap import, or even may be USA made, but quality in everything these days seem to be shit any more, even from companies that used to be respectable and reliable. I put poly bushings on the front suspension of my 1975 Formula in 1996, and they looked brand new when I sold the car only a year ago.
@@corbinhbucknerjr558 I’ve used energy suspension brand for years with no issues, I hope they continue to make a good product. I used them in these trailing arms, so I guess we’ll see how they hold up.
